Posts: 2533
Joined: 12/2/2003 From: Sacramento, CA Status: offline
SVTJohn Performance wise I do not have any flow specs but they are 3-1 headers that have a 2.25" collector that replace the 99+ logs that have a 2" collector, the size of the primaries are on the front page. Common math tells your that the performance gain is going to be worth it.
Lando7886 You can just have a shop modify a GT X-pipe for you with 2.25" flanges and the correct angle for the headers. My shop did mine for $70
TOKIV6 Sent you a PM about that, hope it helped, if you want paste what I said in here so others can see it.
crash LOL Thanks man, but im not on enough or know enough to be a legend :)
cobra232 WOW I havent run by those yet but I will keep my eyes open now and buy the first set I find to take pics and measurments for everyone.
MantaDreams Thanks :) And you are very correct, thats why its always best to try to find an inspection station that might have a rep of not lifting the car, there is one here in Springfield Mo. that I go to. As soon as I go home to California I have to get cats. I think I may have mentioned that it is a good idea to keep all stock exhaust componants just for inspection and smog reasons. Also California police check for smog equipment almost all of the time if they suspect other mods to your car.
I also mention in the PM that I sent that deleting the EGR isnt a good idea, its best just to keep it. In the PM I mentioned that I muscled the 2000 EGR tube to work with the 94-97 headers that I used (Mine were 1996 headers to be exact.)
Sorry that I havnt been on much, lots of work at home and work :)
Here is a video of my exhaust without mufflers. The sound quality isnt great but you get an idea. This was taken with a small digital cam. You can see the stock muffler on there still but not connected, that was for inspection purposes. I also have another stock Y-Pipe that I can switch over to when I go back home to cali, I also have 4 hi-flow cats I can weld in too :) So I have a few options.
This video was to show that the exhaust can sound good but for the most part is annoying. Also the reason for the light smoke at the end is because I still need a wideband dyno tune. It was tuned for about 25hp less than what it can make just to be on the safe side.
It idles at 750, the first rev was 1400rpms, 2nd was 2000, third was 3000 and the 4th was 5000rpms.
Even though the 94-98's are larger their 3 primaries all get squashed down into the 2 1/4in collector where as the 99-04's each dump directly into the 2 inch pipe with no loss of diamater. Makes me wonder if the older ones might actualy flow less.
Even though the 94-98's are larger their 3 primaries all get squashed down into the 2 1/4in collector where as the 99-04's each dump directly into the 2 inch pipe with no loss of diamater. Makes me wonder if the older ones might actualy flow less.
no they flow more than 99+, but not alot better on NA cars. on FI cars they are alot better and withstand the heat better as the 99+ log style manifolds are known to crack on stock setups letalone performance setups.
the power difference between the 2 on even a full bolt-on cammed with ported heads and intakes would only be about 5hp in favor of the 94-98's and even that would be pushing it.
2.25" collector is more than enough size for 3 cylinders to feed. there is no cramping down of flow withthe 94-98 header. they are actually well oversized for a stock engine and that is why you don't see any gains from aftermarket shorties even with a blower. LT's help the torque and scavenging to add more hp on top. the old 5.0 had horrible stock headers and that is why they see better gains with them than 3.8 guys
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98 3.8L 11psi Procharger 1.8's,3.73`s,7.5 Detroit Truetrac,TA rear girdle,B&M shift kit,2500 stall,8.5:1 ross .030" pistons,Eagle H-Beam 351W rods,RPM 215/230 cam,SCT chip from VMP,Pro-M Univer MAF,ford 42lb injectors
That's good news. I was just looking at one of the headers the other day while I had it off the car and noticed how the tubes were squashed together and it made me wonder a little.
Did anyone else have issues with the passengers side header coming in contact with the motor mount? It took me forever to figure out why that side wouldn't seal to the head and it turned out the tube for cyl #1 comes in contact with the mount. I had to cut a notch the bracket with an angle grinder to get it to fit in.
Posts: 2533
Joined: 12/2/2003 From: Sacramento, CA Status: offline
I dont have those specs because: 1.) I am poor 2.) They are not smog legal in Cali 3.) I am poor
You will have greater torque, power and a more broad powerband though, BUT!!!! You need to upgrade your intake to help match the exhaust flow. A lot of people will say dont bother with CAI's, larger maf housings and larger TB's.
Its all part of the big picture, people arent happy with TB's and CAI's and headers because they dont put them all on at one time, that kick in the pants feeling just isnt there when putting them on one by one.
I feel that a NA setup should be similar as listed for bolt ons (No bottom end) assuming you have a splitport.
Intake: 1.) MAC or C&L 73mm MAF kit (You can go bigger but this kit makes it simple.) 2.) 70mm Throttle body 3.) Port matched and ported upper and lower intakes with post removed from intake. 4.) Ported and port matched heads w/valve components of your choice 5.) Cam of your choice or go with Harland sharp roller rockers (These are geometrically incorrect though they net 10hp) 6.) Rhoads or FRPP best hydrolic roller lifters. These are critical for valve lift, stock experiance catastrophic failure at and above 6200rpms.
Exhaust: 1.) Stock 94-98 3-1 Headers or LT or aftermarket shorties of your choice. 2.) Shop modified 1994/95 H or X pipe of your choice, Federal law says you must have 2 cats. 3.) Mufflers and tips of your choice
Final Step: Get it dyno tuned to optimize performance. Adding a CAI, larger MAF housing, TB or spacer can cause the AFR to go way out of specs.
I havnt mentioned things like ignition or UDP's because that doesnt involve this thread.
That is how I have set up my own engine and have enjoyed the results.
< Message edited by NeoTokyo -- 3/15/2008 12:30:59 AM >
Posts: 2533
Joined: 12/2/2003 From: Sacramento, CA Status: offline
Simple, its more cost effictive to cast an exhaust manifold than have it welded up. The smaller diameter also allowed for more torque making the car feel more Sporty :)
Hey what happened up there with that banned person? I didnt get to read the posts o.o'''
I thought at first you meant the ban stick was for me and I was like "I just want to help! " LOL
Horsepower wise you probably wont see much of an increase, but its a more cost worth solution to getting aftermarket headers (except long tubes.)
There is more work involved though so that you can use the 94-98 headers like expanding the size of the Y-pipe collectors.
Now I should mention that this information is based on three mustangs. A 1995, a 1996 and a 2000. Things changed a little in 01' and there are chances that the 94/95 X-pipe that I used (That worked great with only $70 in modifications from a shop) may not work on 01 or 02 or 03 or 04 or all.
So as long as you dont destroy your stock exhaust you can have fun and learn something new when trying to upgrade.
As for me and my setup (Again www.youtube.com/CrainRacing no mufflers) I gained some good power, enough to feel it from this modification, but I really needed to get mufflers on it before I felt the power increase. The Torque loss was too great without mufflers causing it to bog heavily.
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RE: Once and For All 94-98 VS 99-04 Header guide! STICK... - 
" LOL 