CDC Shaker Hood Install (w/pic & vid)
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CDC Shaker Hood Install (w/pic & vid) - 4/25/2007 3:42:42 PM
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TacoBill
Posts: 381
Joined: 6/21/2006
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CDC Shaker Hood System Install
I purchased this Shaker system primarily for cosmetic reasons. As it does provide additional ‘ram air’ to the air filter (at highway speeds), the HP gains are minimal at best. However, I do consider this a functional hood scoop versus the blocked off ones.
One note about this installation, I already had the K&N CAI installed. So, any step regarding fitment of the ductwork to air box will be a deviation from the CDC instructions. I will include a few file photos of the modification on the OEM air box for those adapting this Shaker to the factory intake.
If you have a different CAI, the install will basically be the same with the exception of the duct routing (to heat shield).
As you see, Ford has accommodated a section in the hood specifically for a hood scoop.
Out of the box.
1. Lay down a strip of masking tape (I used the green 1.4” wide 3M Paint & Body tape, stronger than the blue 3M Painters tape) down the center of the hood, then mark the centerline.
Hint: The nose of the hood has a centerline crease. To find center on the back, split the distance between the washer nozzles.
Once done, lay several strips of masking tape on each side of the centerline tape. Be sure to go wider than the area to be cut out.
2. Unroll the template out and tape it to the hood.
Aligning points on the template are the rear curvature of the hood’s edge and its centerline.
Try and lay the template as flat as possible. I know it’ll be hard to get it to lay perfectly flat, so concentrate on the centerline and edge of hood marks to make sure they’re spot on.
3. Using a utility knife (with a NEW blade), carefully press hard into the cut line of the template. You MUST press hard enough to go through the template, vinyl stripes (if applicable), and score the paint past the clear coat and into the base.
This is what’s called, “Beyond the point of no return!”.
The idea behind this is to reduce any chance of the paint flaking during the cutting process.
4. Once the template is cut out, peel away the inner masking tapes, exposing the area where you’re about to cut.
The look on my son’s face on what we’re about to do.. priceless!
5. Open the hood and remove the hood liner.
The plastic fasteners holding the liner up are the push-in type. Carefully pry them up, the liner can easily tear. Cup your hand beneath the clip as your prying them off, I lost 2 somewhere in the engine bay! (Autozone has replacements)
(file photo)
6. Use a large moving blanket or sheet of plastic and cover the entire engine bay, even drape it over the fenders for added protection.
I used a 4x4 piece of wood to support the hood solid and to give it the additional height when drilling and cutting.
7. Now comes the 2nd point of no return.. Get a punch and mark your drill spot approximately ¾” – 1” away from the tape’s edge.
Using a ¼” drill or larger (or step drill if you prefer), make yourself a makeshift drill-stop by wrapping several layers of masking tape about a ¾” up then drill your hole into the hood using the punch dimple as your mark.
Important: You must use the punch prior to drilling or risk the drill bit walking onto your hood paint!
8. Using a jigsaw with a NEW blade (at least a 14TPI or finer (up to 24), drop it into the hole you drilled and start cutting. Don’t rush the cut. Let the blade do it’s cutting.
Stop every several inches and lay some masking tape across the cut area to reduce any chattering and/or bouncing.
Tip: Chips and shavings will start to fly everywhere! Learn from my mistake, drape something over the whole windshield, most of the roof, and outside the masking lines on the hood.
9. Get a small file and file down any sharp edges along the cut area.
I used some primer along the edge, but this is optional.
10. Take some time now to clean up any remaining metal shavings then peel up all the masking tape except for the centerline tape.
11. Locate the ball stud bracket on the intake manifold using the supplied U-clamp. Use Loctite on the Allen stud.
Just a note, I have already deviated from the CDC directions because I found some problems in their sequence. By doing the steps their way, you’ll run the risk of having your scoop not centered within the upper trim ring.
What I did was to ‘pre-fit’ the Shaker shroud before permanently tacking down the upper trim ring to the hood. The trim ring has substantial play within the hood cut-out, so final placement is critical.
If you want the scoop to be perfectly centered with even gaps around the trim ring, follow my sequence.
12. Remove the 2 upper throttle body bolts and set aside.
These are the primary attachment points for the Shaker shroud (the ball cup on the intake manifold being secondary).
The 2 ‘L’ brackets on the shroud are slotted side to side, allowing for some adjustments.
Also, disconnect the red/black MAF sensor plug from the air tube (red lock lever slides back to release the plug).
Note: If using the stock intake, modify the hose clamp that connects the air tube to the throttle body per CDC’s instruction (the stock location of the clamping screw interferes with the shroud, it gets moved over to the side like where I installed mine on the K&N).
13. Pre-fit the Shaker shroud on top of the engine.
Engage the ball on the bottom of the shroud to the ball stud bracket installed in step 11. The front ‘L’ brackets get positioned to the throttle body (do not install the 2 bolts yet removed from step 12).
Now things are coming together! But, don’t get too excited, there’s still more work ahead.
Take note on the front and rear sections of the shroud during this pre-fit step.
You will see the MAF sensor on the K&N air tube rides the front corner of the shroud fairly hard. (For those with the OEM air box or other CAI systems, this won’t be an issue)
Check for clearance to a grounding strap on the firewall. If it’s riding, get some needle nose pliers and bend it down away from the shroud.
Ensure that the brake booster line is routed outside of the shroud.
14. Modify the shroud to accommodate the MAF plug for the K&N.
NOTE: If you have the OEM air box, skip this step.
Mark the location of where you’ll need to cut a hole in the shroud to feed through the MAF plug.
Remove shroud from car.
Using a hole saw, cut a 2” hole into the shroud. Once complete, file smooth.
15. Once again, pre-fit the shroud back on the engine.
Ensure that the MAF sensor now has clearance to the shroud.
Take a look around and see if anything else is riding or needs to be modified.
I discovered that the shroud was rubbing up against the lower radiator hose, so additional trimming was required to gain clearance.
16. Close the hood completely (full latch).
No fasteners are installed at this point so the shroud can remain in an adjustable state.
Now take a look at what’s going on.
First thing you want to do is align the center vertical rib in the scoop to the hood’s centerline (from the masking tape you laid down earlier).
17. Open the hood and re-install the 2 throttle body bolts removed from step 12.
This is the part where lots of patience will come in handy.
Access to these throttle body bolts will be difficult, and those with the C&L, it’ll be next to impossible without further trimming of the shroud.
However, with this K&N, it is possible to access the bolts without any modification to the shroud.
Tape together a deep ¼” drive 10mm socket to a long extension so it won’t fall off. Then, lightly tape the bolt into the socket so it won’t fall off as you guide it under the shroud. With the aid of a flashlight, insert the bolts through the ‘L’ bracket and into the throttle body and start them by hand. You made need to push down and/or pull up on the corner of the scoop to get the bolts to start threading.
Do not torque these bolts down yet, just leave them loose.
18. Close and latch the hood once more.
This is the final alignment step of the scoop and upper trim ring.
Ensure that the scoop’s center rib is perfectly aligned to the hood’s centerline and that it’s also not canted in the rear one way or the other.
Peel back the centerline masking tape, but don’t remove it, just incase you need to reference back to it.
Drop the upper trim ring onto the hood. Float the trim ring into place (will have a fair amount of play in all directions) making sure that the side to side gap and front to rear gap to the scoop is even and centered.
Now you see why we’re deviating from CDC’s direction which would’ve had you permanently tack the trim ring to the hood after step 10.
Once the scoop and trim ring is in place, lay down some masking tape to border the trim ring and make any marks (for reference) on the tape to make sure the trim ring gets installed in the exact spot you aligned it in.
19. Prep and install the 3M tape on the upper trim ring.
Lightly sand the bottom area of the trim ring where the 3M tape will go. CDC recommends 80-120 grit sand paper.
Clean the area with the supplied alcohol pad (or use your own with a clean rag).
Wipe the contact area with the supplied 3M Adhesion Promoter and let dry.
Install the 3M double side tape on the trim ring. Keep it in one long piece, working around each corner and keeping it as flat as possible. I laid the tape down separately at the corners, but in hindsight, I should’ve kept it as one piece because it’ll make positioning on the hood much easier. Mine was a one shot deal.. not recommended.
20. Wipe down the area of the hood with alcohol where the trim ring will be installed.
Peel back 3-4” of the red tape backing of the 3M tape and position the trim ring back onto the hood aligning it to the reference tape marks. Once the trim ring is tacked down, slowly peel away the rest of the tape backing always ensuring that it remains aligned with the reference tapes.
Once all the tape backing is removed, press down on the trim ring with your fingers to completely seat it.
(no picture)
21. Open the hood and go for final torque on the throttle body bolts.
Torque: 89lbs-in
22. Temporarily re-install the hood liner removed from step 5.
You don’t have to use all the push-in fasteners, just a few just to hold it in place.
Using a grease pencil, trace the outline of the upper trim ring from the top of the hood.
23. Remove the hood liner off the car.
Lay down the hood liner on the floor and place the lower trim ring on the liner (hump with felt strip at bottom – rear of car) so it matches the grease pencil line you made from the upper trim ring.
Trace around the outside of the lower trim ring then remove the ring off the liner.
Measure ½” in towards the center from the newly traced outer line. Make several ½” marks around the perimeter then free hand (or use a straight edge) to join all the marks.
You now should have 3 separate and complete trace marks on the liner.
Using a utility knife, trace and cut out the ½” (middle of the 3 lines) line you made. The liner cuts pretty easily.
24. Final ring assembly.
Re-install the hood liner using all of the push-in retainers.
Install the lower trim ring up against the upper trim ring sandwiching the hood liner in-between. Make sure that the hump with felt strip is at the bottom.
The two trim rings will snap together.
Using a small indexing pin (like a punch or equivalent), align the holes where the rivets will be installed, 4 total.
Once aligned, insert the rivet and install.
You’ll need a rivet installing tool to perform this.
25. The Shaker install is almost complete.
All that’s left at this point is the duct work to either the CAI heat shield or to the OEM air box.
26A. Air duct work routing for OEM intake.
Remove the air box using CDC’s instructions. Position the supplied paper template in preparation to cut a hole into the side of the air box.
Important: The hole must be precisely 3” in diameter. CDC recommends drilling a 2 ¾” diameter hole, then open it to 3” by hand using a file.
Clear the air box of any debris, then snap in the lower CDC air tube into the 3” opening in the box.
Re-install the air box back into the car using the supplied S&B hi-flow air filter (or use any air filter you want).
Re-connect the MAF connector to the sensor in the air tube.
Using the supplied 3” rubber coupler and hose clamps, connect the upper and lower air tubes together.
Lastly, route the 4 water drain hoses located at each corner of the shroud down towards the bottom so water can freely flow out. Do not route next to the exhaust manifold or any moving parts. Secure with the supplied zip ties (optional, but recommended).
The following are file photos not of my car; for reference only.
26B. Air duct work routing for K&N CAI.
Re-connect the MAF connector to the sensor in the K&N air tube.
Route the 4 water drain hoses located at each corner of the shroud down towards the bottom so water can freely flow out. Do not route next to the exhaust manifold or any moving parts. Secure with the supplied zip ties (optional, but recommended).
I had to modify the lower air tube in order for it to align to the heat shield; I tried to keep this hole as low as possible.
Here’s what the issue was..
As you see, the lower air duct connection was no where close to the heat shield.
I cut a section out of the middle of the lower duct in an attempt to shorten it, thus raising it. It worked, but that middle section is very flimsy making the cutting and trimming very difficult. I used a hacksaw.
Next step was to drill a perfect 3” hole into the side of the heat shield. Of course, I didn’t have a 3” hole saw, so I had to go buy one just for this purpose. The material used for the shield is steel, drilling into it was a PITA to say the least. Luckily, I had a drill press at my disposal (tip: wrap tape all over any clamping surface on the heat shield to protect it from any marring). Once the hole was cut, I filed the rough edges and touched it up with some flat back paint.
As things started to come together, I hit a bump. Being the heat shield is (about) an inch more forward than where the OEM air box would be, the 3” rubber coupler that connects the upper to lower air duct was at it’s limit. Press down on the air duct ever so slightly would cause the lower duct to pop out from the coupler. Bottom line, the 3” coupler was too short. Not only that, but a slight angularity issue also came into play as a result of modifying the lower duct.
I searched high and lower for a 3” ID coupler that was at least 3 ½” in length. I was about to give up when I found Hose Techniques. They has exactly what I was searching for, a black hump hose with a 3” ID x 3 ½” length, but at a price ($30!).
Hump hoses are used when you have a slight deflection between two connecting pipes.
I also decided to replace the lower rubber coupler that held my modified lower duct together with a matching black silicone hose (same material as the hump hose). Thankfully, this one was only $12.
Hump hose PN#: 52.300-350-110
Straight hose PN#: 50.300-300-110
In the end, everything worked out to my satisfaction.
Installation complete!!
Reference: CDC Shaker Install Manual & Mustang Monthly Shaker Install
On car pics:
_____________________________
Current Status: Blown Motor
MMR Street Mod 800 Shortblock Ordered.. yeah, it'll have FORGED internals
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RE: CDC Shaker Hood Install (w/pic & vid) - 4/25/2007 4:40:51 PM
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Blueline
Posts: 44
Joined: 5/11/2006
Status: offline
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I think i speak for everyone when i say thanks for going the extra mile for us with your great writeups and how to guides.
Car looks sweet.
bookmarked for later...........
Jay
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RE: CDC Shaker Hood Install (w/pic & vid) - 4/25/2007 4:47:00 PM
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BlkSunshine77
Posts: 192
Joined: 3/18/2007
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Awesome writeup!
Now I know exactly what I'm in for.
Thanks a lot!!
Can a mod sticky this post?
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RE: CDC Shaker Hood Install (w/pic & vid) - 4/25/2007 5:02:45 PM
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Daniel06GT
Posts: 515
Joined: 6/13/2006
From: Phoenix, AZ
Status: offline
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quote:
ORIGINAL: 06blueovalblueGT
Why can't we all live next door to Bill !!!
GREAT STUFF,
I agree!!
You do great work, keep the mods coming and the "How to's" too 
-DG
_____________________________
2006 Mustang GT -
18X10 DD Bullits
Roush Louvers
10" Rally Stripes
SLP Loud Mouths
Eibach Sportlines
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RE: CDC Shaker Hood Install (w/pic & vid) - 4/25/2007 5:04:41 PM
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fastautos
Posts: 335
Joined: 2/8/2007
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It looks great!!!
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- www.DrewPhillipsPhotography.com -
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RE: CDC Shaker Hood Install (w/pic & vid) - 4/25/2007 5:07:13 PM
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whocarez03
Posts: 39
Joined: 3/15/2007
Status: offline
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Man, You Rock!! Thanks again for the great write-ups!!
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Drive it like you stole it!
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RE: CDC Shaker Hood Install (w/pic & vid) - 4/25/2007 5:20:53 PM
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Atlantis
Posts: 18
Joined: 7/3/2006
Status: offline
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quote:
ORIGINAL: 06blueovalblueGT
Why can't we all live next door to Bill !!!
LOL!!
I truly appreciate these type of in depth guides.
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RE: CDC Shaker Hood Install (w/pic & vid) - 4/25/2007 5:28:35 PM
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drbobvs
Posts: 2740
Joined: 4/26/2005
From: Babylon, NY
Status: offline
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All I can say is.... Holy Crap!!!!
_____________________________
05 GT Vert Auto, Saleen S/C 10psi VMP tune, Roush springs,D-Specs,Steeda LCAs,Swaybar,Panhard bar & brace,Spydershaft,TruTrac,3.73,BBK shortys,Corsa A/B.
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RE: CDC Shaker Hood Install (w/pic & vid) - 4/25/2007 5:29:23 PM
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bchataroo
Posts: 180
Joined: 7/4/2006
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Hey Taco, do you have a writeup for changing shocks/struts? Hint Hint
Thanks for all of the instructions. I still say you should sell them to the manufacturers.
Later
_____________________________
06 Legend Lime GT Auto 18x9 Saleen Wheels
Kooks L/T's w/HiFlo Cats & X-pipe
JLT CAI SCT 3.73's UDP COP's
Eibach Pro-Kit with all the trimmings
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RE: CDC Shaker Hood Install (w/pic & vid) - 4/25/2007 6:22:29 PM
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Fletch
Posts: 397
Joined: 4/12/2007
Status: offline
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Great job, Bill!
By the way, where are those rear window louvers you got from DG? I noticed they weren't on in the pics...
~Fletch~
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RE: CDC Shaker Hood Install (w/pic & vid) - 4/25/2007 7:18:52 PM
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TacoBill
Posts: 381
Joined: 6/21/2006
Status: offline
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quote:
ORIGINAL: bchataroo
Hey Taco, do you have a writeup for changing shocks/struts? Hint Hint
Thanks for all of the instructions. I still say you should sell them to the manufacturers.
Struts, yes. It's in the Steeda Ultralite write-up. After you remove the top bearing cap, that's it.. swap in your new struts.
Shocks, no. But, it looks way more easier than changing out the struts. In the same write-up, after you unbolt the lower shock mount bolt, all that's left is accessing the bolt up top, and out she goes!
As far as selling my write-ups, maybe one day. But, in the meantime, enjoy the freebies! 
quote:
ORIGINAL: Fletch
By the way, where are those rear window louvers you got from DG? I noticed they weren't on in the pics...
Good eye, Fletch!
Shaker was installed before my DG louvers.
< Message edited by TacoBill -- 4/25/2007 7:19:25 PM >
_____________________________
Current Status: Blown Motor
MMR Street Mod 800 Shortblock Ordered.. yeah, it'll have FORGED internals
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RE: CDC Shaker Hood Install (w/pic & vid) - 4/25/2007 9:02:28 PM
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Rsmin
Posts: 132
Joined: 8/25/2006
Status: offline
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TacoBill,
What a fantastic write up.. I know everyone appreciates it.
Two Questions:
(1) How long did it take you from start to finish?
(2) I love the look of the Shaker.. Was it worth the time, money and effort?
Thanks so much
Rusty
_____________________________
2006 Auto Windveil Blue GT Premium Coupe IUP
Louvers; Gentex Homelink Auto-dimming Compass/Temp Mirror; Window tint
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RE: CDC Shaker Hood Install (w/pic & vid) - 4/25/2007 9:31:02 PM
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nonstopred
Posts: 3057
Joined: 6/18/2006
From: Long Island, NY
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daymm looks nice, thanks for the great write up
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RE: CDC Shaker Hood Install (w/pic & vid) - 4/25/2007 10:40:14 PM
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SOLDSHORT
Posts: 2497
Joined: 3/12/2006
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quote:
ORIGINAL: mattblasi
Great write up THANKS for taking the time , this should be made a sticky for those who keep asking :D
http://www.mustangforums.com/m_3061754/tm.htm
_____________________________
XCAL2 By Bamachips 87 Perf Tune, JBA Dual Exhaust w/ H-Pipe, MMR High Flow Intake Kit, Legend Spoiler, Roush Hood Scoop, 17"GT take off rims, 8" Shorty Antenna
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RE: CDC Shaker Hood Install (w/pic & vid) - 4/25/2007 10:52:03 PM
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yzfmik
Posts: 250
Joined: 11/23/2006
From: Spring Hill, FL
Status: offline
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Once again, TacoBill ROCKS!! You make everything look easy, now I may have to get a scoop. I like that you have a red Mustang so I can see what my car would look like with your mods. You need to do a ducktail since that's on my short list.
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'05 Red GT Premium - M5, Loudmouth axleback, 5% tint, BSM 10" Stripe Kit
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RE: CDC Shaker Hood Install (w/pic & vid) - 4/25/2007 11:30:19 PM
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TacoBill
Posts: 381
Joined: 6/21/2006
Status: offline
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quote:
ORIGINAL: Rsmin
Two Questions:
(1) How long did it take you from start to finish?
(2) I love the look of the Shaker.. Was it worth the time, money and effort?
Hey Rusty!
Appearance wise, the Shaker and the stripes have the greatest visual impact on my car. Which is not always a good thing when a cop is nearby.
1. All in all, the install wasn't too difficult. Total time was around 10 hours (spread over 3 days). The only snag I came across was from the K&N CAI, but after some head scratching, a solution was found (thanks to the hump hose). If you have a stock intake, knock off at least 3 hours. Basically can be all done on a Saturday!
2. Yes!, Yes!, and most definitely YES!
I 've heard of shops charging anywhere between $200 - $400 to install this Shaker kit. If you're considering it, save a gang of money and do it yourself. And, I can just about guarantee that your gaps will be more even compared to what a shop can do.
_____________________________
Current Status: Blown Motor
MMR Street Mod 800 Shortblock Ordered.. yeah, it'll have FORGED internals
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RE: CDC Shaker Hood Install (w/pic & vid) - 4/26/2007 8:21:39 PM
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KSBlizzard
Posts: 10
Joined: 3/22/2007
From: Greenville, MI
Status: offline
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quote:
Original: TacoBill
As far as selling my write-ups, maybe one day. But, in the meantime, enjoy the freebies!
Hey TacoBill,
I recently ordered my moleskin for my tint that I'm going to have done once my 'stang comes in. I just got the package earlier this week and saw that there are printed instructions that come with them.
Well, being an avid TacoBill write-up fan, I was going to just follow your instructions (found here BTW http://www.mustangforums.com/m_3059554/tm.htm).
So, I decide to flip through the print-outs, just to see what they have, and I notice the pictures they have are pretty familiar. I go back to your write-up and check...yup, they are your pictures! Too funny!
I guess you know you write good install documents when the company you get the products from is using your pictures, and ship with their product.
Anyway, just wanted to point out that even people outside of MF are taking note of your awesome work.
Kyle
_____________________________
On order:
'07 GT Premium
Vista Blue / Dark Charcoal
5-speed manual
18" Premium Wheels
3.55 Ltd Slip
Int Upgrade
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