Here is my best description of how to change out your clutch, in a complete tear down/rebuild of the whole process!!
First off you gotta take off your shifter knob and shifter boot. The shifter knob simply unscrews, and the plastic surrounding the boot pops off. Disconnect the cigarette lighter by un-clipping it (no i didnt do this, but i would reccommend doing it) . Underneath all this you will find 2 bolts connecting the shifter handle and the base of the shifter assembly. Unbolt the shifter handle and set to the side. anther pic of the shifter handle below
Disconnect the positive and negative battery cables from the terminals. (this was taken before i took the positive off)
Lift your car in the air then take unbolt the the factory Y pipe from the exhaust manifolds. Passanger side below Drivers side below
Then unbolt it from the Y connection, or from the dual split( like I did) a couple shots below of the factory exhaust manifolds after the pipes are taken out.(passanger side first, Drivers side lower of the 2)
Don't forget to unclip the O2 sensors on both sides and the Speedo sensor. drivers side below
passanger side below (good shot of the drain/fill plugs)
Then take out the 4 bolts that connect the driveshaft to the rear differential. Make sure and make a mark on the driveshaft and the rear axle so you can line it up again when you are done. The driveshaft at the transmission side below
Then slide out the driveshaft from the transmission, make sure to angle UP the side that goes into the transmission, or a little fluid will leak out. Below is a shot of where the driveshaft connects to the rear end.
Use a transmission plug so no tranny fluid leaks out where the driveshaft came from.(the black piece of plastic sticking out of the rear of the transmission)
Next unscrew the starter from the passanger side of the tranny. It has 2 bolts.
Take the clutch cable dust shield(inspection shield) off, and remove the safety clip, and then the cable from the clutch fork, and pull all of it through the bellhousing hole. Unbolt the transmission from the bell housing. After this take off the transmission support brace that holds the driveshaft end of the transmission up to the bottom of the car. Passanger side view below. Drivers side view below
Get a transmission jack and place it under the transmission. Then slowly slide the transmission out and down and either leave it on the jack or place on a table.
Pic as the transmission starts to slide out.
Making sure the shifter clears the bottom of the car
Transmission out and on the shop table(pictured below).
After this unbolt the bellhousing from the engine. (pictured above on the left hand side. It only weighs like 8 or 9 lbs) Next unbolt the pressure plate, and set it, and the clutch disc to the side. (bottom of pic above)
The bellhousing and clutch fork with the old throw out bearing removed.
Unbolt the flywheel from the engine and set aside, dont forget to either get the flywheel resurfaced or buy a new one.(old one pictured below)
Get a hooked slide hammer and take out the old Pilot bearing (biggest PITA with the whole job)
and replace with a new Pilot bearing , hammer in with a block of wood between the bearing and the hammer to prevent damage to the bearing.
Install the resurfaced(or new) flywheel being carefull not to touch any shiney surface. (haynes manual has specs for torquing bolts)
New SPEC Stage 1 Clutch kit!!!!
Bolt on the new pressure plate and clutch disc. Use the allignment tool to make sure the clutch disk stays in the center. (torque down to specs)
Before putting the bellhousing and clutch fork back on run them both through a parts washer.and grease the pivot ball(VERY IMPORTANT)
Bolt on the bell housing, with the clutch fork (after you grease the pivot ball), and new throw-out bearing put on.
With the transmission on the table take out the 4 bolts that go to the Bearing retainer sleeve. You have to pry it off with a flathead screwdriver.
Picture with the Retainer sleeve off.
Put a small bead of Ultra Black UTV Silicone on the inner ring of the new retainer sleeve(on the side that gets bolted to the transmission) and bolt the new sleeve to the transmission(do NOT overtighen, it is alluminum!!!). Also apply a thin amount of grease or lubricant to the retainer sleeve before putting back up into car.(look closely i did!!)
OOOOHHHHHHHH Shiney new TO bearing :-)
Slide the transmission back into the bellhousing and through the center of the new clutch disc and pressure plate(after you take out the plastic allignment tool. Bolt the tra
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03 AB Mach 1 full bolt ons, 4:10''''s 18''''s 13.1 at 108 with a 2.0 60'''' < should be in the 12''''s
damn man, NICE write up, very detailed. im sure jeff or somebody will put this up top..oh and you get a nifty little contributer tag..lol. good job man, thanks for takin the time to do it.
very nice. what mufflers are those? the black ones. & how do they sound? seems quite random how the exhaust goes from dual to one then back into dual.
they are the mac SS cat back exhaust setup, with the "over the axle" polished extentions.... yea its a 'y' adapter, it sucks, but sounds great, i think it sounds better than the 3 or 4 other V6's ive seen over here with duals, its got a really deep growl to it, you can hear it on youtube, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0VPpEizZcOs
i was thinking about cutting out the y and just having somebody custom fab me a divorced setup with the rear cats cut out, but im selling it for a mach 1, and dont want to put any more $ into it thats not just gas and oil changes... every time i worked on my car was a rainy day, so my car is dirty as hell in every picture....hah
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03 AB Mach 1 full bolt ons, 4:10''''s 18''''s 13.1 at 108 with a 2.0 60'''' < should be in the 12''''s
haha......uh YEA, tried, gave up, tightened the bellhousing back up and seperated the tranny from the bellhousing and did it like that. its funny that you ask
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03 AB Mach 1 full bolt ons, 4:10''''s 18''''s 13.1 at 108 with a 2.0 60'''' < should be in the 12''''s
yea....both arnt really good... but they arnt bad at the same time, if your clutch seems to be working ok...you might have gotten off lucky, but if the pedal is chattering...you need to grease the pivot ball, and the bearing retainer sleeve, and while you have all of it out, take the flywheel out, and have it resurfaced. only cost me like 45 bucks at a machine shop, make SURE they dont lose any of your 3 flywheel studs... they lost one of mine..and said it was like that when i gave it to em.. im not saying your dad is wrong by any means, the flywheel thing is "reccommended" but if he is a seasoned car guy, he might have been able to look at it and say it looks good enough to not get it redone....did you at least clean off the flywheel before you put it back in?
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03 AB Mach 1 full bolt ons, 4:10''''s 18''''s 13.1 at 108 with a 2.0 60'''' < should be in the 12''''s
ok thanks. looks good. they look the same as my tips. 3inch by 18 full stainless. my hangers are before the rear wheels so you dont see the ugly hangers on the rear when you drive by or look underneeth. paid 70 bucks to have it done last year & they used the stock hangers & welded them to the chrome tips so i got really mad & had them redone yesterday and upgraded to rolled tips with the hangers before the rear wheels.
yea, ive got hangers for the mufflers, and hangers for the exhaust tips... they said the tips could possibly fall off if they get shaken enough....so they custom made the tip hangers for me, and the whole system is really solid now, and the tips really hug the body lines of the back bumper, so you dont really see the hangers too much, unless you are under the car
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03 AB Mach 1 full bolt ons, 4:10''''s 18''''s 13.1 at 108 with a 2.0 60'''' < should be in the 12''''s
yeah yours look really good but im sure you know what im describing. i see it on most mustangs, the crappy little hangers that connect the tips right at the end. if they are welded on tight enough like mine you can put the hangers further forward.
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How to Replace your stock clutch Write-up - 
