Okay, before you start bashing me, let me just say that this is written for the '1st Timers' who haven't attempted an oil change, but were thinking about doing it themselves if they only had some simple steps to follow.
Here we go!
I went with the fully synthetic Mobil 1 5W-20 and the Mobil 1 (M1-210) High Efficiency oil filter. A total of 6 US Quarts was used.
Note: Of course, you can substitute in any high quality oil and filter you like, the procedure is the same.
First thing was to warm up the engine a bit so the oil can flow easier, but not too hot. I drove it up on the Rhino Ramps and let it idle for a few minutes.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v673/tacobill35/Misc%20reference%20pics/Mobil%201/IMG_1234.jpg
Standing in front of the engine, looking down, you can see the factory oil filter right of center (the all white one).
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v673/tacobill35/Misc%20reference%20pics/Mobil%201/IMG_1235.jpg
From underneath the car, locate the oil pan (black one), just forward of the transmission bell housing.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v673/tacobill35/Misc%20reference%20pics/Mobil%201/IMG_1239.jpg
Use a 16mm socket to break loose the drain plug and carefully unscrew the nut by hand. Caution! The oil may be a little warm so be careful. Don't forget to position your drain pan under the plug, and please, make sure it's big enough to hold 6 quarts.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v673/tacobill35/Misc%20reference%20pics/Mobil%201/IMG_1246.jpg
While the oil is draining out (I let it go for few minutes), remove the oil filler cap and clean up the plug.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v673/tacobill35/Misc%20reference%20pics/Mobil%201/IMG_1252.jpg
Now, re-install the drain plug (careful not to cross-thread it) and tighten it using the socket and ratchet. Torque is 26Nm, 19lb-ft. I just tightened it to what I felt was tight, but not crazy tight.
Now here came the fun part.. Not!
Let me first say that the Factory put this filter on very tight! So tight, that there was no way in removing it without causing some damage to its housing.
Here's a shot of the filter from underneath the car.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v673/tacobill35/Misc%20reference%20pics/Mobil%201/IMG_1244.jpg
I tried everything to get that sucker loose. My Hulk rubber gloves failed, rubber strap wrench failed, an even a filter socket failed! I had no choice, but to employ the Jaws of Life! This did the job, but not without putting some major dents in the filter. But, who cares as it was getting tossed.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v673/tacobill35/Misc%20reference%20pics/Mobil%201/IMG_1256.jpg
Once the filter is loose, carefully (and slowly) spin it off and let the excess oil drain into your pan. Oil will drip over other parts, can't help that. Once the filter is removed, make sure the rubber seal off the OEM filter isn't still stuck to the engine block. Get a clean rag and wipe the mating surface and any spills.
New!
TIP: On my 2nd oil change, I used the 1-Gallon ziplock bag trick and it worked out very well. All you need to do is open the ziplock around the filter when loose, and carefully spin it off through the bag. The filter and excess oil will all fall into the bag leaving no mess!
Open up one of your new quarts of oil and rub a light coat over the rubber seal/gasket on the new filter. I also rub some oil into the threaded hole to for good measure, although probably not necessary.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v673/tacobill35/Misc%20reference%20pics/Mobil%201/IMG_1259.jpg
TIP: Per Mustang Buster's suggestion, the oil pressure will come up faster by not having to fill the filter from the oil pan. You can easily fill it (the new oil filter) about 3/4 the way up without having it spill out when installing it.
Install your new oil filter and be careful not to cross-thread it while screwing it on. Once the filter gasket made contact with the block, I gave it an additional ¾ to a full turn BY HAND. Do not over-tighten the filter.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v673/tacobill35/Misc%20reference%20pics/Mobil%201/IMG_1260.jpg
A couple pictures from above, looking down.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v673/tacobill35/Misc%20reference%20pics/Mobil%201/IMG_1261.jpg
Checklist before filling the engine with new oil... Drain plug in and tight? New oil filter on and tight? Good! Now, start filling. Don't pour in the quarts like a maniac, it may spill over your funnel (bad thing).
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v673/tacobill35/Misc%20reference%20pics/Mobil%201/IMG_1263.jpg
Once you're done filling, replace your oil filler cap and go do a quick courtesy check for any leaks. Good? Go for engine start. Now don't go revving the engine as soon as it starts, there's plenty of time for that later. Also, keep an eye on the oil pressure gauge (if equipped) and make sure it shows pressure within a few seconds of starting the engine.
What I usually do now, is get back under the car and re-check for leaks.
Once all looks good, go ahead and back the car off the ramps (or whatever means you lifted it) and shut the engine off. Let it sit for at least 5 minutes and check the oil dipstick level. It should read at the upper end of the top hole.
Being the oil is fresh and new, seeing it on the dipstick can be a little difficult.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v673/tacobill35/Misc%20reference%20pics/Mobil%201/IMG_1274.jpg
Job is complete! http://forums.bradbarnett.net/images/smilies/banana.gif
Just for fun, here's a pic of what I used.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v673/tacobill35/Misc%20reference%20pics/Mobil%201/IMG_1265.jpg
06blueovalblueGT
04-17-2007, 02:36 PM
Is this the same TacoBill that did the outstanding thread on moleskin ???
For a guy that kicked-ass on the window,
and you have never changed your oil ? [NOT ABASH !!]
Dang-it, I could have come over and changedYOUR oil,
and you could have done MY windows !!!!!!!!
Sorry Bill, sometimes I read faster than I drive, good post.
Speedyejl
04-17-2007, 02:40 PM
Good writeup if there is one thing the Mustang community is missing its DIY for simple things. There are a lot of true gear heads who could do an oil change before they could drive who pass over helping newbies with the basic stuff.
Sticky
LegallyTorchRED
04-17-2007, 02:44 PM
Nice post, I'm sure that helped for those owners that weren't sure how to do it.
I wouldn't use a Mobile Filter, you see they make oil, not filters, and that's probably a Fram, or whatever with a "private label", marked up in price cuz it sez Mobile.
If I mayadd, use a blanket or some type of "fender protector", in the one photo, you are very close to scratching the fender with your belt buckle.
bigray327
04-17-2007, 02:58 PM
Bill, thanks for your time and dedication to the forum. I could have used a newbie's guide to installing a Vortech supercharger about three days ago! :-)
07moneypit
04-17-2007, 03:08 PM
[hr]I would agree not to use a Mobile one oil filter or any other "oil branded" filter. I was in the Auto Parts industry for 6 years as well as ASE certified, and the best oil filters on the market for Ford products are either a WIX, Hastings, or a Motorcraft Racing oil filter. Any of these have steel on each end of the filter element on the inside of the canister to help prevent collapsing under pressure, as well as a steel shaft connecting each end, and a teflon grommet as well on the inside. Most of the "oil branded" oil filters as well as Fram, and STP have cardboard on the filter element ends that will break down quicker and possibly collapse under heavy pressure. However they have really good marketing to support their products and make them look better. I basically use only Wix because they are the easiest to find out of the three.
Other than that, great article. I believe it will help alot of people that may be new to all this.
tedBalog
04-17-2007, 04:08 PM
Always, always, ALWAYS make sure the old gasket is off the engine. [&:]You'll have a big mess to clean up. 6 Quarts of oil drains a lot faster that way then with the oil plug. [:@]
Jujudoll
04-17-2007, 07:12 PM
I love your how-to's. Thanks for all the info.
TacoBill
04-17-2007, 09:53 PM
ORIGINAL: LegallyTorchRED
I wouldn't use a Mobil Filter, you see they make oil, not filters, and that's probably a Fram, or whatever with a "private label", marked up in price cuz it sez Mobil.
ORIGINAL: 07moneypit
I would agree not to use a Mobil one oil filter or any other "oil branded" filter. I was in the Auto Parts industry for 6 years as well as ASE certified, and the best oil filters on the market for Ford products are either a WIX, Hastings, or a Motorcraft Racing oil filter. Any of these have steel on each end of the filter element on the inside of the canister to help prevent collapsing under pressure, as well as a steel shaft connecting each end, and a teflon grommet as well on the inside. Most of the "oil branded" oil filters as well as Fram, and STP have cardboard on the filter element ends that will break down quicker and possibly collapse under heavy pressure. However they have really good marketing to support their products and make them look better. I basically use only Wix because they are the easiest to find out of the three.
Okay guys, I understand both your points and they are valid, ... to an extent.
I also have done my fair amount of research when I was selecting which oil filter to go with. I don't want to turn this thread into a debate on oil filters (please start a new thread if you want to debate brand A vs brand B), but I will point out some info which may help others decide what brand filter to go with.
Here are the core components that make up the M1-210 oil filter:
Filter Weight - 16.8 oz
Overall OD - 3.67"
Overall Height - 3.71"
Can Material - 0.02" thick steel
Filter Element OD - 3.36"
Filter Element Height - 2.57"
Media -Synthetic (appears pink/orange)
Number of pleats -55 + 1 joint
Depth of pleats - 0.72"
Media length (unrolled) - 89.3"
Media width (glue not included) - 2.1"
Media thickness - 0.030"
Total media surface area -187 sq. in.
Total media volume - 5.6 cu. in.
Inner Filter Support Material - 0.015" Thick Perforated Steel
Inner Filter Support OD - 1.66"
Indentifying marks
Can - 06190602 / Product of USA
ADBV - AAX / 40
Base - ZZ
Gasket Retention - Press Fit
Thread - M22 -1.5
Relief Valve Location - dome end
ADBV Material - Silicone (orange)
Gasket includes lubricant
http://home.mindspring.com/~cewhite3nc/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/m-210_1.jpghttp://home.mindspring.com/~cewhite3nc/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/m-210_4.jpghttp://home.mindspring.com/~cewhite3nc/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/m-210_5.jpghttp://home.mindspring.com/~cewhite3nc/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/m-210_6.jpghttp://home.mindspring.com/~cewhite3nc/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/m-210_7.jpghttp://home.mindspring.com/~cewhite3nc/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/m-210_8.jpghttp://home.mindspring.com/~cewhite3nc/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/m-210_9.jpghttp://home.mindspring.com/~cewhite3nc/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/m-210_11.jpghttp://home.mindspring.com/~cewhite3nc/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/m-210_15.jpghttp://home.mindspring.com/~cewhite3nc/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/m-210_16.jpg
The line of Mobil 1 oil filters are madeby Champion Laboratories'.
And, just for the record, Purolator makes Ford Racing and Ford Motorcraft,Fram makes their own, Affinia Group Inc makes Wix, and Clarcor Corp. makes Hastings.
So, is theMobil 1 oil filter the best filter out there for our Mustangs? Of course not! Isit a'better than average' filter that does an adequate job at filtering particles down to 10 microns? Absolutely!
btw- With all that said, I have a Ford Racing oil filter ready to go for my next oil change. [sm=smiley20.gif]
celenztah
04-18-2007, 01:29 AM
Thanks for that post Taco! Nice photo job and nice writing technique. Simple and well described enough to prompt even me to want to start changing my own oil. I'm not a gear head, but I've done a thing or three with my own cars over the years. My excuse is usually, "I'm too busy earning the bucks that canpay for the conveniences in life... so why not have it done for me." But I've been learning lately that with that approach, one can really miss out on some great satisfactions in life.... one of the greatest ones being the"do it yourself" one.
All I need aresome Rhino Ramps, oil filter wrench and a good drain pan. I use Mobil 1 oil already and I'm sure I pay too much for oil changes. Buying that gear and 2 or 3 oil changes on my own and I'd be saving some notable cash as well as enjoying myself in the process.
One question Taco, any advice on old oil disposal? I live in a suburban neighborhood with trash pickup and they even do recyclables, etc. I suppose I could call them, but I thought I'd ask for your tip on that one too.
teksp0rt
04-18-2007, 01:56 AM
ORIGINAL: celenztah
One question Taco, any advice on old oil disposal? I live in a suburban neighborhood with trash pickup and they even do recyclables, etc. I suppose I could call them, but I thought I'd ask for your tip on that one too.
+1 .. I saw that you live in Torrance. I live in LA.. Any good places that you know of to drop off the old oil?
and as always, fantastic write up.. you rock bro.
Speedyejl
04-18-2007, 02:33 AM
Just go to the nearest gas station and ask them. You know those circular bumps in gas station parking lots? One of those is for oil disposal. Just make sure to ask them while mechanics are in the garage. If you ask Derka Derka at midnight he is going to be clueless.
Lees07GT
04-18-2007, 02:33 AM
ORIGINAL: celenztah
One question Taco, any advice on old oil disposal? I live in a suburban neighborhood with trash pickup and they even do recyclables, etc. I suppose I could call them, but I thought I'd ask for your tip on that one too.
In my area, used oil canbe dropped off at most large auto parts stores. Advance and Pep Boys is where I usually drop mine off. I like to drop off my old oil when I buy the new oil so that they can realize the continued benefit of allowing customers to recycle at their store. Just call around to your local parts stores and see who will take it.
Sprzout
04-18-2007, 02:35 AM
ORIGINAL: celenztah
One question Taco, any advice on old oil disposal? I live in a suburban neighborhood with trash pickup and they even do recyclables, etc. I suppose I could call them, but I thought I'd ask for your tip on that one too.
The recycling in my area is exactly why I take the car in to have the oil changed. My town has said it's a big no-no to do your own oil changes, because it is considered "hazardous waste". So, I can't do an oil change in my driveway anymore, and I certainly cannot do it on the street. Also, the "recycling center" here in town charges to recycle oil! I've tried to take it to the local CSK, AutoZone, and PepBoys stores for recycling, but they all say that I can only bring in 2 gallons at a time.So, I basically either get charged twice, or I have to find a way to transfer the oil in to 2 1 gallon milk jugs, thus causing more of a chance of spill and "hazardous waste", or I can pay someone to change the oil for me, for about the same price that it would cost me to buy the oil and do it myself...Guess which option I choose?
Sorry, Bill, not bashing on your oil changing procedure...I think it's great, and if it weren't for local city politics being what they are, I'd be following your pictures and directions step by step. Definitely a help for the average newbie who doesn't know how to do a simple oil change. :) The only thing I'd include in your steps is that if you use a set of toothed pliers (i.e. channel locks or that clamp wrench like you used) that there is possibility of puncturing the metal on the filter itself and causing another leak and mess to clean up...But sometimes, that's what it takes to get that sucker off!
FordDude
04-18-2007, 03:33 AM
Yet another nice write up from TacoBill. I have already changed my oil once, at 1000 miles, and my filter came off with no problems. I am going to miss changing oil in my Ranger. (The Mustang is replacing the Ranger) I did a 4 inch suspension lift on it so when I changed oil I did not need to jack it up. The oil filter is perpendicular to the ground so I could fill it up with oil. fd
schmitty
04-18-2007, 03:43 AM
great post, but are you sure you even needed a oil change?? it doesnt even look like that car has been driven. sooo clean under the hood.[sm=smiley20.gif]
TacoBill
04-18-2007, 12:23 PM
ORIGINAL: celenztah
One question Taco, any advice on old oil disposal? I live in a suburban neighborhood with trash pickup and they even do recyclables, etc. I suppose I could call them, but I thought I'd ask for your tip on that one too.
Vince, as suggested by others, most all autoparts stores will take your used oil. For me, my local Autozone takes the oil at no charge. I have a 5 gallon drum that I use to store the used oil and once full, I take it in.
Also, I see that you have a 4.0. There are a few differences that you need to take note of..
The4.0 takes 5 quarts of 5W-30 (the GT's take 6 quarts of 5W-20).
The oil filter is located on the Passenger side.
Socket size of the oil drain plug is 13mm.
ORIGINAL: teksp0rt
+1 .. I saw that you live in Torrance. I live in LA.. Any good places that you know of to drop off the old oil?
Dennis, pretty much what I said above, I take it to Autozone (I'm sure other will accept it as well as some gas/service stations).
ORIGINAL: schmitty
great post, but are you sure you even needed a oil change?? it doesnt even look like that car has been driven. sooo clean under the hood.[sm=smiley20.gif]
Hey Jason, I have a whopping 1100 miles now! As you probably have guessed, it's not my daily.
I spoke to a Mobil 1 tech about an oil change schedule for me and was told to do it once a year. That being said, my next oil change will be coming up this December.
TPony
04-18-2007, 06:15 PM
Don't care what anyone else says...keep them coming...great job.
celenztah
04-18-2007, 07:20 PM
ORIGINAL: TacoBill
ORIGINAL: celenztah
One question Taco, any advice on old oil disposal? I live in a suburban neighborhood with trash pickup and they even do recyclables, etc. I suppose I could call them, but I thought I'd ask for your tip on that one too.
Vince, as suggested by others, most all autoparts stores will take your used oil. For me, my local Autozone takes the oil at no charge. I have a 5 gallon drum that I use to store the used oil and once full, I take it in.
Also, I see that you have a 4.0. There are a few differences that you need to take note of..
The4.0 takes 5 quarts of 5W-30 (the GT's take 6 quarts of 5W-20).
The oil filter is located on the Passenger side.
Socket size of the oil drain plug is 13mm.
Thanks Taco for the update on those 4.0 differences (the 5W-30 I was aware of - I bug my current mechanic each time to make sure that's what he puts in... lol).
And thanks all for the oil recycle suggestions. I live very close to Advance Auto Parts, Mechanic shops and gas stations. Transporting the oil would mean one more thing-a-muh-bob to buy (and awide funnel!), but still should be worth it.
sdsguy
04-19-2007, 06:03 AM
i have always wanted to know how to change oil and this actually worked well. i think if i took my laptop out and did everything step by step the way you said i can do it. but its nice taking my car in to the dealer and having them inspect everything else still.
tedBalog
04-19-2007, 10:26 AM
I took 40 quarts of used oil to wal-mart once because they told me over the phone they would take it. I get there and the guy is bitching at me because they're only supposed to take 1 or 2 gallons.. I talked to the guy at autozone, he said i could bring in whatever, as long as I dispose of the containers.
thxultra
04-19-2007, 04:50 PM
Nice tourtorial. Thanks for such a great write up. I always take my car to the dealer because they check everything out, but this may be a good idea every other oil change.
northy_polk
04-19-2007, 06:26 PM
Has anyone used a K&N oil filter and felt one way or the other about it [and i don't mean fondled for all you sickos out there :D]??? I know it has a "nipple" on the end of it that you can use a ratchet to get it off of there more easily.
Taco Bill: thanks a million! I'll have to look back and see if you posted pics of your long-tube install. I'm assuming since you didn't mention it that you didn't "prep" the engine to start using the sythetic stuff?
TacoBill
04-19-2007, 06:45 PM
ORIGINAL: northy_polk
Has anyone used a K&N oil filter and felt one way or the other about it [and i don't mean fondled for all you sickos out there :D]??? I know it has a "nipple" on the end of it that you can use a ratchet to get it off of there more easily.
Taco Bill: thanks a million! I'll have to look back and see if you posted pics of your long-tube install. I'm assuming since you didn't mention it that you didn't "prep" the engine to start using the sythetic stuff?
Hi Jon. I was debating between the K&N and the Mobil 1 oil filters, but Autozone was running a 'Buy 5 quarts of Mobil 1 and get a Mobil 1 oil filter free' kind of deal. I had the Ford Racing filter ready to go, but decided to use my free filter instead.
I'm not running long tubes, just the O/R-H and Stingers. Swapping out the L/T's every 2 years for smog just sounds like a PITA. :D
On switching to synthetic... boy, this is a heated debate.. I've read and researched all I could stand on the subject of when it's a good time to switch over to synthetic. All I can say is what I did, and that was change it over at 500 miles. [sm=smiley20.gif]
unreal41683
04-19-2007, 10:03 PM
Good write up. Just one question. How do you document the oil changes so that you don't void your warrantee?
This could be nice for me to learn how to do since I have put 13,000 miles on my mustang since I bought it new in August.
TacoBill
04-20-2007, 01:42 AM
ORIGINAL: unreal41683
Good write up. Just one question. How do you document the oil changes so that you don't void your warrantee?
I'm certain store receipts will suffice. Writing down the mileage also wouldn't hurt.
dotsonian
04-20-2007, 02:09 PM
ORIGINAL: TacoBill
ORIGINAL: unreal41683
Good write up. Just one question. How do you document the oil changes so that you don't void your warrantee?
I'm certain store receipts will suffice. Writing down the mileage also wouldn't hurt.
Store receipts and mileage documentation is usually all that is required. I keep my receipts in the log book.
Ford has a place youcan document it and any other non-dealer work.
https://myford.fordvehicles.com/servlet/ContentServer?pagename=MyFord/Page/LogOnPage&BackToLogin=MyFord%2FPage%2FHomePage
You will also find documentation off any dealer work done to your vehicle.
sandy
04-20-2007, 03:45 PM
Hey Taco, I'm impressed with your presentation and research! Keep 'em coming.
acascianelli
04-20-2007, 03:55 PM
One quick question. Do you think its safe to just leave the car on the ramps while you're working on it, or do you put jackstands underneath it also. I've worked on cars before but I'm always scared to have the car come crushing down on me.
ohnoesaz
04-20-2007, 04:09 PM
Can anyone comment on gaskets or the oil plug needing to be replaced when a change is done?
Also, just to throw my opinion in on the switch to synthetic debate; I have never believed its bad to switch to synthetic at any point.. I switched an eclipse at 60,000 miles and it ran strong when I traded it in at 120,000, and I switched a Civic at 40,000 miles and my girlfriend is still driving it strong at 130,000 miles...
I got this 05 GT at 5000 miles. When i have time to do an oil change it will be at about 6000 miles, and I'll be switching.
TacoBill
04-20-2007, 04:12 PM
ORIGINAL: acascianelli
One quick question. Do you think its safe to just leave the car on the ramps while you're working on it, or do you put jackstands underneath it also. I've worked on cars before but I'm always scared to have the car come crushing down on me.
You can never err on the side of safety. Things may appear to be overkill to some, but in the end, it's your butt beneath the car.
Only you can make the call as to whether the ramps will suffice or additional support fromjack stands are needed.
For me, using the Rhino Ramps are good enough of a support. But, when using a floor jack, I always use jack stands. Either way, I always chalk the rear tires.
If you're working solo under the car, it's always a good idea to have your cell phone within reach... just in case.
TacoBill
04-20-2007, 04:16 PM
ORIGINAL: ohnoesaz
Can anyone comment on gaskets or the oil plug needing to be replaced when a change is done?
I see no need to replace the drain plug (or the washer gasket) unless it's starts to leak or you damaged the threads by cross-threading it.
JerryP
04-21-2007, 09:34 PM
I have a set of Rhino ramps and I can't get them to stop walking. They are the ones for low cars, gray in color. What are you guys using that work well? Thanks.
lldsandsll
04-21-2007, 10:57 PM
uh oh, i thought u could just pour the bad oil down the sink
seriously tho, how do u transport the oil w/out it spilling. do the pans have lids?
excellent write up!
TacoBill
04-22-2007, 12:16 AM
ORIGINAL: JerryP
I have a set of Rhino ramps and I can't get them to stop walking. They are the ones for low cars, gray in color. What are you guys using that work well? Thanks.
There's several methods that people are using..
Lay a roof shingle against the concrete, then lay the ramp on top.
Same thing as above, but use a piece of carpet.
ORIGINAL: lldsandsll
uh oh, i thought u could just pour the bad oil down the sink
seriously tho, how do u transport the oil w/out it spilling. do the pans have lids?
excellent write up!
I save up all the oil in a 5 gallon drum then use the pick-up truck to take it to the autoparts store.
You didn't think I'd use the Mustang to take that dirty oil did you?? :D
lldsandsll
04-22-2007, 03:05 AM
the pick up truck...OF COURSE! [sm=smiley20.gif]
brian2906
04-22-2007, 05:39 PM
When you guys say 'chalk' the tires, you mean 'chock' as in shove something under them so that they don't move right? I guess thats obvious, but the last time my tires got 'chalked' it cost me money. A parking ticket for being in a spot to long !
TacoBill
04-23-2007, 01:58 AM
ORIGINAL: brian2906
When you guys say 'chalk' the tires, you mean 'chock' as in shove something under them so that they don't move right? I guess thats obvious, but the last time my tires got 'chalked' it cost me money. A parking ticket for being in a spot to long !
Have always enjoyed reading your "how to" posts on this board. It's obvious that you have a talent for explaining things in a clear and consise matter.
TacoBill
04-23-2007, 06:36 PM
ORIGINAL: bobzorn
TacoBill,
Have always enjoyed reading your "how to" posts on this board. It's obvious that you have a talent for explaining things in a clear and consise matter.
Thanks Jim! Always appreicate the kind words. :D
BAMFstang
04-24-2007, 07:15 PM
Excellent write up. I have always just paid someone else to do it for me but I am inspired and just might have to do it myself now.
Leoleo
05-23-2007, 03:46 PM
TacoBill, WOW. Great write up. Are youa teacher?
Anyway, I will be using the Ford Racing Filter on my first Oil Change in about a month. Before the end of June.
brandon97
05-23-2007, 08:27 PM
TacoBill,
Great write up....I bet you are a great neighbor to live next to.....
Just curious, what are you guys paying for your oil changes at the dealer or oil shop? And what are you guys paying for the products to do it yourself? I would need to buy all the set up equipment (ramps, funnel, tools, etc...), so I was just trying to justify the total cost vs. having someone else do it...trying to see how many oil changes it would take to break even then start saving $$....plus, I'm sure most of you do it yourself to know deep down that it was done right and with love.....
TacoBill
05-23-2007, 09:18 PM
ORIGINAL: brandon97
... I'm sure most of you do it yourself to know deep down that it was done right and with love.....
Exactly. ;)
Besides, I wouldn't hear the end of it if I took mine's in for an oil change after all the stuff I've installed. [8D]
brandon97
05-24-2007, 12:24 PM
Regarding my last post:
I went to Autozone this morning and found out the following:
Mobil One oil filter: $10
Mobil One 5W-20 synthetic oil for 6 quarts: $35
So, my question is, what does the dealer charge for this service? I haven't even started this thing yet and I'll be $45 bucks in to the project....my caddy takes about $75 for an oil change, so if I'll save $30 each oil change, then I'm in.....
Plus, I do realize even if the cost was the same, it is truly the love of doing it yourself and the pleasure of knowing it was done right!!
nineinchnail1024
05-28-2007, 03:31 AM
ORIGINAL: northy_polk
Has anyone used a K&N oil filter and felt one way or the other about it [and i don't mean fondled for all you sickos out there :D]??? I know it has a "nipple" on the end of it that you can use a ratchet to get it off of there more easily.
Taco Bill: thanks a million! I'll have to look back and see if you posted pics of your long-tube install. I'm assuming since you didn't mention it that you didn't "prep" the engine to start using the sythetic stuff?
I ONLY use K&N oil filters and Mobil 1on my stang as well as my last two mustangs. The last two went to well over 100K miles without ever giving me an engine related problem.
wcgman
05-28-2007, 10:53 AM
If I may throw in some commentary:
$45 for synthetic and filter here. If I take it in it's $65.
I hate having the quick lube do it (including those at a dealership) because occasionally they do something wrong and sometimes it's catastrophic. The last time was just last week. I've been waiting to replace the oil drain plug in my 97 V6 as it has a slow leak. But by the time I make it home it's been raining every night. So I decide to take it in to the only quick lube I thought I could trust and it;s owned by a guy who has 6+ mustangs not counting the ones his sons own. So I have them do an oil change and replace the plug. $40 is painful (conventional oil) but it is what it is. But now the car feels slightly different. So I check the oil level. They overfilled it. WAAAY overfilled it. So I take it back and these punks are trying to tell me all Fords you can fill up to the F on Full on the dipstick which is seriously about an inch beyond the second hole in the dipstick. When I asked them who told them that horses&$t they tell me the owner who drives all the mustang did. I said where is he? I want to chew his @$$ for this. "Oh he's on vacation." I didnt see him around but I will be going back later to talk to him. Anyway I have them drain some to where I am comfortable. Who is this guy to think he can ignore the dipstick?? Uhhh- Ford has been designing those for decades using the scientific method. You own a quicklube. Who should I believe? My point is you can be getting screwed and not even know it. That could have spun a bearing or blew out my rear main seal.
Nowthe concern about working under the car. I dont think there's anyone who doesnt get nervous about it. But I've never heard of anyone getting crushed from using ramps as long as they set the parking brake have it in gear. The hardest part of ramps is driving the car up on them and being nervous about overshooting it. Since I'm alone that's a real concern. If you are doing anything that requires removing a wheel what I do is jack it up high enough that I can take the wheel and put it under the frame of the car. That way if the jack or jack stand slips, the wheel will catch it. My father in law (old school mechanic and truck driver) taught me that trick. I feel a lot safer when the wheel is there. Just put the outside of the wheel up so it doesnt scratch on the ground.
TacoBill, I would only add a little to your write up and that would be posting the capacity for both the V6 and the V8 at the start and perhaps to be careful to not drop the drain plug down into the hot oil. If you do, make sure the gasket on the drain plug didnt fall off into the oil. I did that once on an old 302 and it wasnt pretty. That was my first oil change but not my first @$$ chewing from the mechanic who taught me.;) At least now they are using a rubber oring which doesnt come off like that.
Another old school trick I use is I dont use a funnel. Instead I am really careful and get the first quart poured in, then I cut off about the bottom 2" of that first bottle when empty with a real sharp blade. Then I use that as my funnel for all the remaining quarts. You can even set the new quart right down into that funnel and balance it to free your hands up to open the next quart :D
Menace
07-16-2007, 02:19 PM
I use K&N's filter. I hate using oil filter wrenches and what not... So the nut end really helps...
sandy
07-17-2007, 12:44 PM
wow, I'm impressed!
platnumheart666
07-30-2007, 11:59 AM
Attempting to do fist oil change, but have a couple questions:
(1) Is it okay to use 5W-30 in the 4.6?
(2)Should I use the motorcraft FL300 or FL1A oil filter?
howarmat
07-30-2007, 12:17 PM
why do you want to put 5w30 in when it takes 5w20 is my first question...
not sure where you are getting those numbers but the FL-820-S is the one to use
the FL1A is 2.3L OHC Ranger/Mustang(94),4.9L F-Series/E-Series, 5.0L F-Series/E-Series/Bronco(96), etc
and the FL300 is for 5.0L Mustang Cobra
Are you sure you want to do this yourself or just take it to a dealer...:eek:
07 Stang
07-30-2007, 12:34 PM
Do you guys know what filter size is for the 4.0?
Thanks!
howarmat
07-30-2007, 12:41 PM
go to a website like autozone or rock auto....they will tell you
ndnboy
07-30-2007, 01:48 PM
ORIGINAL: 07 Stang
Do you guys know what filter size is for the 4.0?
Thanks!
Used the Motorcraft FL-820S on my last change :)
07GT4.6
07-30-2007, 07:12 PM
Great write up if did not know how to change your oil you know now great write up AAAAA+++++.
jdt141
07-30-2007, 07:58 PM
awesome post! thanks tb! for someone who's never done an oil change in their life, this is very helpful.
mods: make this sticky!! [sm=thanx.gif]
platnumheart666
07-30-2007, 07:58 PM
Well finally got all the info to do first oilchange!(Thanks to TacoBill and all who had something constructive to say)
Just ordered a Motorcraft fl-820S / got the Rhino ramps etc. and since she only has 5k on her I'm going to hold off on the 5W30
Wish me luck!
howarmat
07-30-2007, 08:00 PM
ORIGINAL: jdt141
awesome post! thanks tb! for someone who's never done an oil change in their life, this is very helpful.
mods: make this sticky!! [sm=thanx.gif]
uhh....all of his write ups are already a sticky:eek:
ohnoesaz
07-30-2007, 09:08 PM
Dont use loktite on the drain plug
07 Stang
07-30-2007, 09:13 PM
ORIGINAL: ndnboy
ORIGINAL: 07 Stang
Do you guys know what filter size is for the 4.0?
Thanks!
Used the Motorcraft FL-820S on my last change :)
Thanks!
olvanish
07-31-2007, 02:22 AM
It's nice to have people like yourself at every forum. I've changed oil before but thought I'd still read this one lol Threads like this one are very useful for those who've never done it before though and I wish there was more of them especially on things like supercharger installation etc.
Stkjock
08-04-2007, 10:31 AM
Taco,
Thanks for another great write up.... gonna do this in a hour!!!
I dont seem to have a 16MM socket or wrench... looks lik 5/8ths is the same... I hope it works!
Bot 7 qts or Motorcraft 5w20 synth blend and Motorcraft filter at Autozone for $23 with tax! I read somewhere that walmart sells the oil cheap.... did not feel like trecking there... Autozone is much closer.....
First time... wish me luck......
TacoBill
08-04-2007, 10:53 AM
ORIGINAL: Stkjock
Bot 7 qts or Motorcraft 5w20 synth blend and Motorcraft filter at Autozone for $23 with tax! I read somewhere that walmart sells teh oil chreap.... did not feel like trecking there... Autozone is much closer.....
I only use 6 quarts, be careful not to overfill.
You'll do just fine! Good luck. [8D]
mlcrycc
08-04-2007, 11:05 AM
ORIGINAL: TacoBill
ORIGINAL: Stkjock
Bot 7 qts or Motorcraft 5w20 synth blend and Motorcraft filter at Autozone for $23 with tax! I read somewhere that walmart sells teh oil chreap.... did not feel like trecking there... Autozone is much closer.....
I only use 6 quarts, be careful not to overfill.
You'll do just fine! Good luck. [8D]
+1 With what Bill said. I have always used only 6 quarts....And you will be fine with the 5/8. I have always used it....
Good Luck,
Mike
Timeyer
08-04-2007, 12:44 PM
To all oil changers...
I noticed in one of Taco's pictures he is pouring the oil incorrectly. Nearly everyone pours with the bottle upside down. If poured correctly, the oil won't "glug," and you won't spill as much. Older bottles had a picture of how to pour, yet nobody has seemed to figure this out. The correct way to pour looks like the opening is on top, not on the bottom. The bottle is designed that way to let an equal amount of fluid and air to escape.
Just my $.02. I'm really trying to be helpful, not critical.
157db
08-04-2007, 12:52 PM
Great write up Taco.
Props...:D
Stkjock
08-04-2007, 01:02 PM
Thanks guys... just finished... my buddy came over with his RinoRamps to help.... and wound up sliding right under and started!!! He did almost the whole thing himself...LOL.... he love's working on cars.... So a big thanks to Jon...
took about 6 1/4 qts...added a bit more for the S/C lines.... filled the filter up first as suggested... worked perfectly...
only trouble.... just too damn hot in New York today...
Bmr4life
08-18-2007, 11:24 PM
Great write up!!!
Did my oil change today at 12,500 miles. Went pretty easily. I made some ramps out of 2x8's. Cost just under $20 in wood and should work well even after I lower or get a chin spoiler. Used the Mobil1 filter, Autozone was running the free filter special. I did have to use a $4 filter removal tool to get the filter off.
StantheMan
08-19-2007, 01:23 AM
From the Pics of your Stang, it looks as if your vehicle is supper well maintained, the pic of the oil draining from your car looked darn close to new. Keep the HOW TO! threads coming, I have done quite a few of your mods and look forward to seeing what it takes to get the job done. The Shaker Hood is in my future once I come up with the scratch.Thanks for taking the extra time to methodically document yourvehicles maintenance and mods.
mcburns36
08-19-2007, 09:25 AM
I really liked the Incredible Hulk Gloves. A lot of places around me have used oil furnaces and will gladly take the oil.
MrSandman
08-19-2007, 03:26 PM
Is it possible to not make such a mess when taking the filter off? Can you punch a hole in the filter (safely) and let it drain?
Is careful as I am.. I always make a mess when taking the filter off...
Bmr4life
08-19-2007, 06:32 PM
ORIGINAL: MrSandman
Is it possible to not make such a mess when taking the filter off? Can you punch a hole in the filter (safely) and let it drain?
Is careful as I am.. I always make a mess when taking the filter off...
I put foil over the hose when I took my filter off and positioned the oil container directly beneath. Made no mess at all.
TacoBill
08-20-2007, 08:56 AM
ORIGINAL: MrSandman
Is it possible to not make such a mess when taking the filter off? Can you punch a hole in the filter (safely) and let it drain?
Is careful as I am.. I always make a mess when taking the filter off...
Another suggestion that I've read is to cut an empty 1 gallon milk jug in half (at an angle) and position it under the oil filter when unscrewing it.
GidyupGo
08-20-2007, 10:38 AM
ORIGINAL: Timeyer
To all oil changers...
I noticed in one of Taco's pictures he is pouring the oil incorrectly. Nearly everyone pours with the bottle upside down. If poured correctly, the oil won't "glug," and you won't spill as much. Older bottles had a picture of how to pour, yet nobody has seemed to figure this out. The correct way to pour looks like the opening is on top, not on the bottom. The bottle is designed that way to let an equal amount of fluid and air to escape.
Just my $.02. I'm really trying to be helpful, not critical.
I pour mine out of a gallon bottle. No glug there, and I also use a wide mouth funnel. I highly recommend this.
GidyupGo
08-20-2007, 10:39 AM
ORIGINAL: MrSandman
Is it possible to not make such a mess when taking the filter off? Can you punch a hole in the filter (safely) and let it drain?
Is careful as I am.. I always make a mess when taking the filter off...
Yes, I use a nail set, sort of a punch for countersinking finish nails. Drains the filter nicely.
Mudflap
08-28-2007, 10:46 AM
ORIGINAL: Bmr4life
I made some ramps out of 2x8's. Cost just under $20 in wood and should work well even after I lower or get a chin spoiler.
Hey, do you have any pics of these contraptions? [8D] I have been thinking about doing the same thing. I've got the gray Rhino ramps but they're sketchy and walk across the floor easily. I don't want to take out my chin spoiler...
If you ask Derka Derka at midnight he is going to be clueless.
Dude!! Seriously my stomach hurts from laughing so hard, I just cant stop! That was soo hilarious
sharkbait20
09-01-2007, 01:49 AM
1 thing i would add is to check the drain plug for metal shavings, dirt, etc. anything out of the ordinary that shouldnt be in your oil pan. this may point to a problem inside your motor. otherwise, good writeup.
Mudflap
09-09-2007, 01:05 AM
Thanks for the link! I built those Mustang World ramps but did one less board so they are a little lower. I basically just left out the longest board in the specs to ensure even if I jumped them that they would clear the front lip, etc. They worked great today for my first oil change.
I went with Motorcraft 5W-20 synth blend I found at Autozone as well as a K&N oil filter. My factory filter came off easily with a standard removal tool. I considered the Mobil-1 fully synthetic route, but decided to stick with what the manual recommended.
Here's my $.02 on the infamous synthetic vs dino debate: My personal opinion is there is quite a bit of voodoo and mysticism surrounding oil on automotive forums. I've had several performance cars over the years and I have gone back and forth with religiously using synthetic to using just standard dino oil in various cars. I can honestly say without hesitation that I have never seen any difference in longevity or reliability as a result of using fully synthetic oils. I understand they are technically superior, but I simply have no evidence to justify why I've used them in the past. As such, these days I stick with manufacturers specs. I realize this opinion won't be popular here, but oh well. I'm just sharing my experience, do what you will. [8D] Regardless of which oil you choose, you should always buy a high quality filter IMHO.
jwgroovin
09-09-2007, 08:19 AM
Absolutely outstanding post on a very simple do-it-yourself maintenance activity. Printed it out for my son.
Serious question: have you ever thought of a writing "Modding and Maintaining your Mustang for Dummies" or one of the "Idiots Guide to..."? Both publishers are very careful about choosing ideas that sell sell, and I think you'd actually have a minor best seller in this genre man. As a former professional tech writer this isn't as far fetched as it might seem at first glance. Check out their web sites for instructions on how to submit ideas and first chapters.
John
mlcrycc
09-09-2007, 09:03 AM
ORIGINAL: MrSandman
Is it possible to not make such a mess when taking the filter off? Can you punch a hole in the filter (safely) and let it drain?
Is careful as I am.. I always make a mess when taking the filter off...
Here is another way of reducing the under car mess, if you don't want to punch a hole in the filter. This works well for me. Also, if you do not have a funnel handy, this is what I use. Makes everything nicely disposable.....
Great write up Tacobill. What is the recommended mileage for an oil change? I already had the dealer do one at 1000 miles, I have about 3700 miles now and will probably change to mobil one synthetic at 4000. Just wondering what Ford says?
duckbubbles
09-28-2007, 06:04 PM
Just changed my oil today for the first time on this car. That was before I saw this thread. No problems since I've been doing it for 45 years. I also put a Fram SD2 Sure Drain valve on it. It is a quick drain that stays in the pan and uses a supplied hose/opener to drain the oil with no mess, like missing the pan or splashing. Next time will be easier. The filter was on there pretty damn tight also.
Thanks, good job.
Frank
Aziraphale
09-28-2007, 08:38 PM
ORIGINAL: luckydawg003
Great write up Tacobill. What is the recommended mileage for an oil change? I already had the dealer do one at 1000 miles, I have about 3700 miles now and will probably change to mobil one synthetic at 4000. Just wondering what Ford says?
Ford says every 5000 miles. I did it at 3k and 5k and I'm not sure what I'm going to do from here out.
luckydawg003
04-03-2008, 12:41 PM
Well today, I did my first oil change on my mustang at 7,260 miles. I used 6 qts of Mobil 1 5w20 from walmart only $29, and a Fram toughguard TG2 Oil filter for $5, I hope it was the right one, cause it seemed to overlap the car's filter spot, like stick out a lil bit. So a total of around $36 with tax, the dealer charged me last time $29.95. So I guess it was more expensive, but I know it was done right, and with better synthetic oil.
exx1976
04-03-2008, 12:49 PM
Hrmmm... I read all of TacoBills instructions (just cuz I like his write-up style), and I didn't see ANYTHING in there about red loctite.. Ohno.. Did you nto read this prior to doing yours??
:D
luckydawg003
04-03-2008, 12:55 PM
I sure as hell didn't use any loctite, are you talking to me exx1976?
TacoBill
04-03-2008, 01:30 PM
No Loctite needed or required for this job. [8D]
exx1976
04-03-2008, 01:49 PM
ORIGINAL: luckydawg003
I sure as hell didn't use any loctite, are you talking to me exx1976?
No, I was talking about ohnoesaz..
http://www.mustangforums.com/m_3609569/tm.htm
I'm going to have to put a link to that in my sig.. Getting tired of looking for it.. :-)