Oil Change: For those who want to do it themselves, but are a little unsure...

TacoBill · 04-17-2007, 02:24 PM

Okay, before you start bashing me, let me just say that this is written for the '1st Timers' who haven't attempted an oil change, but were thinking about doing it themselves if they only had some simple steps to follow.

Here we go!

I went with the fully synthetic Mobil 1 5W-20 and the Mobil 1 (M1-210) High Efficiency oil filter. A total of 6 US Quarts was used.

Note: Of course, you can substitute in any high quality oil and filter you like, the procedure is the same.

First thing was to warm up the engine a bit so the oil can flow easier, but not too hot. I drove it up on the Rhino Ramps and let it idle for a few minutes.

Standing in front of the engine, looking down, you can see the factory oil filter right of center (the all white one).

From underneath the car, locate the oil pan (black one), just forward of the transmission bell housing.

Use a 16mm socket to break loose the drain plug and carefully unscrew the nut by hand. Caution! The oil may be a little warm so be careful. Don't forget to position your drain pan under the plug, and please, make sure it's big enough to hold 6 quarts.

While the oil is draining out (I let it go for few minutes), remove the oil filler cap and clean up the plug.

Now, re-install the drain plug (careful not to cross-thread it) and tighten it using the socket and ratchet. Torque is 26Nm, 19lb-ft. I just tightened it to what I felt was tight, but not crazy tight.

Now here came the fun part.. Not!

Let me first say that the Factory put this filter on very tight! So tight, that there was no way in removing it without causing some damage to its housing.

Here's a shot of the filter from underneath the car.

I tried everything to get that sucker loose. My Hulk rubber gloves failed, rubber strap wrench failed, an even a filter socket failed! I had no choice, but to employ the Jaws of Life! This did the job, but not without putting some major dents in the filter. But, who cares as it was getting tossed.

Once the filter is loose, carefully (and slowly) spin it off and let the excess oil drain into your pan. Oil will drip over other parts, can't help that. Once the filter is removed, make sure the rubber seal off the OEM filter isn't still stuck to the engine block. Get a clean rag and wipe the mating surface and any spills.

New!
TIP: On my 2nd oil change, I used the 1-Gallon ziplock bag trick and it worked out very well. All you need to do is open the ziplock around the filter when loose, and carefully spin it off through the bag. The filter and excess oil will all fall into the bag leaving no mess!

New!

Open up one of your new quarts of oil and rub a light coat over the rubber seal/gasket on the new filter. I also rub some oil into the threaded hole to for good measure, although probably not necessary.

TIP: Per Mustang Buster's suggestion, the oil pressure will come up faster by not having to fill the filter from the oil pan. You can easily fill it (the new oil filter) about 3/4 the way up without having it spill out when installing it.

New!

Install your new oil filter and be careful not to cross-thread it while screwing it on. Once the filter gasket made contact with the block, I gave it an additional Â¾ to a full turn BY HAND. Do not over-tighten the filter.

A couple pictures from above, looking down.

Checklist before filling the engine with new oil... Drain plug in and tight? New oil filter on and tight? Good! Now, start filling. Don't pour in the quarts like a maniac, it may spill over your funnel (bad thing).

Once you're done filling, replace your oil filler cap and go do a quick courtesy check for any leaks. Good? Go for engine start. Now don't go revving the engine as soon as it starts, there's plenty of time for that later. Also, keep an eye on the oil pressure gauge (if equipped) and make sure it shows pressure within a few seconds of starting the engine.

What I usually do now, is get back under the car and re-check for leaks.

Once all looks good, go ahead and back the car off the ramps (or whatever means you lifted it) and shut the engine off. Let it sit for at least 5 minutes and check the oil dipstick level. It should read at the upper end of the top hole.

Being the oil is fresh and new, seeing it on the dipstick can be a little difficult.

Job is complete!

Just for fun, here's a pic of what I used.

06blueovalblueGT · 04-17-2007, 02:36 PM

Is this the same TacoBill that did the outstanding thread on moleskin ???

For a guy that kicked-ass on the window,
and you have never changed your oil ? [NOT ABASH !!]

Dang-it, I could have come over and changedYOUR oil,
and you could have done MY windows !!!!!!!!

Sorry Bill, sometimes I read faster than I drive, good post.

Speedyejl · 04-17-2007, 02:40 PM

Good writeup if there is one thing the Mustang community is missing its DIY for simple things. There are a lot of true gear heads who could do an oil change before they could drive who pass over helping newbies with the basic stuff.

Sticky

LegallyTorchRED · 04-17-2007, 02:44 PM

Nice post, I'm sure that helped for those owners that weren't sure how to do it.
I wouldn't use a Mobile Filter, you see they make oil, not filters, and that's probably a Fram, or whatever with a "private label", marked up in price cuz it sez Mobile.
If I mayadd, use a blanket or some type of "fender protector", in the one photo, you are very close to scratching the fender with your belt buckle.

bigray327 · 04-17-2007, 02:58 PM

Bill, thanks for your time and dedication to the forum. I could have used a newbie's guide to installing a Vortech supercharger about three days ago! :-)

07moneypit · 04-17-2007, 03:08 PM

[hr]I would agree not to use a Mobile one oil filter or any other "oil branded" filter. I was in the Auto Parts industry for 6 years as well as ASE certified, and the best oil filters on the market for Ford products are either a WIX, Hastings, or a Motorcraft Racing oil filter. Any of these have steel on each end of the filter element on the inside of the canister to help prevent collapsing under pressure, as well as a steel shaft connecting each end, and a teflon grommet as well on the inside. Most of the "oil branded" oil filters as well as Fram, and STP have cardboard on the filter element ends that will break down quicker and possibly collapse under heavy pressure. However they have really good marketing to support their products and make them look better. I basically use only Wix because they are the easiest to find out of the three.

Other than that, great article. I believe it will help alot of people that may be new to all this.

tedBalog · 04-17-2007, 04:08 PM

Always, always, ALWAYS make sure the old gasket is off the engine. [&:]You'll have a big mess to clean up. 6 Quarts of oil drains a lot faster that way then with the oil plug. [:@]

Jujudoll · 04-17-2007, 07:12 PM

I love your how-to's. Thanks for all the info.

TacoBill · 04-17-2007, 09:53 PM

Quote:

ORIGINAL: LegallyTorchRED

I wouldn't use a Mobil Filter, you see they make oil, not filters, and that's probably a Fram, or whatever with a "private label", marked up in price cuz it sez Mobil.

Quote:

ORIGINAL: 07moneypit

I would agree not to use a Mobil one oil filter or any other "oil branded" filter. I was in the Auto Parts industry for 6 years as well as ASE certified, and the best oil filters on the market for Ford products are either a WIX, Hastings, or a Motorcraft Racing oil filter. Any of these have steel on each end of the filter element on the inside of the canister to help prevent collapsing under pressure, as well as a steel shaft connecting each end, and a teflon grommet as well on the inside. Most of the "oil branded" oil filters as well as Fram, and STP have cardboard on the filter element ends that will break down quicker and possibly collapse under heavy pressure. However they have really good marketing to support their products and make them look better. I basically use only Wix because they are the easiest to find out of the three.

Okay guys, I understand both your points and they are valid, ... to an extent.

I also have done my fair amount of research when I was selecting which oil filter to go with. I don't want to turn this thread into a debate on oil filters (please start a new thread if you want to debate brand A vs brand B), but I will point out some info which may help others decide what brand filter to go with.

Here are the core components that make up the M1-210 oil filter:
[ul][*]Filter Weight - 16.8 oz[*]Overall OD - 3.67"[*]Overall Height - 3.71"[*]Can Material - 0.02" thick steel[*]Filter Element OD - 3.36"[*]Filter Element Height - 2.57"[*]Media -Synthetic (appears pink/orange)[*]Number of pleats -55 + 1 joint[*]Depth of pleats - 0.72"[*]Media length (unrolled) - 89.3"[*]Media width (glue not included) - 2.1"[*]Media thickness - 0.030"[*]Total media surface area -187 sq. in.[*]Total media volume - 5.6 cu. in.[*]Inner Filter Support Material - 0.015" Thick Perforated Steel[*]Inner Filter Support OD - 1.66"[*]Indentifying marks
Can - 06190602 / Product of USA
ADBV - AAX / 40
Base - ZZ[*]Gasket Retention - Press Fit[*]Thread - M22 -1.5[*]Relief Valve Location - dome end[*]ADBV Material - Silicone (orange)[*]Gasket includes lubricant[/ul]

The line of Mobil 1 oil filters are madeby Champion Laboratories'.

And, just for the record, Purolator makes Ford Racing and Ford Motorcraft,Fram makes their own, Affinia Group Inc makes Wix, and Clarcor Corp. makes Hastings.

So, is theMobil 1 oil filter the best filter out there for our Mustangs? Of course not! Isit a'better than average' filter that does an adequate job at filtering particles down to 10 microns? Absolutely!

btw- With all that said, I have a Ford Racing oil filter ready to go for my next oil change. [sm=smiley20.gif]

celenztah · 04-18-2007, 01:29 AM

Thanks for that post Taco! Nice photo job and nice writing technique. Simple and well described enough to prompt even me to want to start changing my own oil. I'm not a gear head, but I've done a thing or three with my own cars over the years. My excuse is usually, "I'm too busy earning the bucks that canpay for the conveniences in life... so why not have it done for me." But I've been learning lately that with that approach, one can really miss out on some great satisfactions in life.... one of the greatest ones being the"do it yourself" one.

All I need aresome Rhino Ramps, oil filter wrench and a good drain pan. I use Mobil 1 oil already and I'm sure I pay too much for oil changes. Buying that gear and 2 or 3 oil changes on my own and I'd be saving some notable cash as well as enjoying myself in the process.

One question Taco, any advice on old oil disposal? I live in a suburban neighborhood with trash pickup and they even do recyclables, etc. I suppose I could call them, but I thought I'd ask for your tip on that one too.