MGW Shifter Installation (with pics and videos)
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MGW Shifter Installation (with pics and videos) - 4/6/2007 5:22:53 PM
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TacoBill
Posts: 381
Joined: 6/21/2006
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EDIT: 03-10-08
SEE POST 55 FOR SPECIAL INSTRUCTIONS FOR THOSE WITH THE AMBIENT LIGHTING OPTION.
ALSO, NOTE REVISED SHIFTER HANDLE BLOCK AND SOPPRT ROD CLAMP.
EDIT: 03-10-08
SEE POST 56 FOR KEY CHANGES REGARDING THE INSTALLATION OF THE MGW SHIFTER.
INSTALLATION DIRECTIONS/PICTURES BELOW DO NOT REFLECT CHANGES OUTLINED IN POST 56.
Received the shifter kit from MGW. Well packaged and all parts protected for safe shipping. Each component of the kit is well labeled for easy identification.
Package contents:
Install Procedure
1. Shift knob removal & leather boot.
Pull down on the leather boot where it meets the shifter knob. It’s on fairly tight, but once you get it to peel away, the rest comes off easily.
Once the knob is off, the leather boot simply unsnaps away from the center console with minimal effort.
2. Remove center console.
Open the center armrest to access the (2) Phillip screws.
Carefully lift up on the rear section of the console to release the push-in clips near the shifter opening.
Once free, angle the console around the e-brake handle (must be in the UP position). Use caution to avoid scratching any of the cosmetic plastic trim pieces near the center dash.
3. Remove dust boot.
Simply peel away at the edges of the rubber dust boot until it’s free from the shifter assembly.
4. Jack up car.
Use your preferred method to achieve this. If using a hydraulic floor jack, ALWAYS, ALWAYS use jack stands for your safety.
5. Remove 13mm (This and all subsequent mm sizes will be the socket/wrench size) lock nut from trans link arm to shifter linkage. Save nut.
6. Remove (2) 10mm nuts from rear threaded studs (use deep socket).
7. Pull down on shifter to clear threaded studs (2 metal clips may fall).
In my case, only 1 metal retaining clip was installed on the Drivers side from the factory.
Pulling the shifter down can be a little stubborn because of this clip, so be firm at freeing it away from the studs.
8. Remove 10mm bolt from forward part of trans link arm to trans. Save bolt.
One small issue I encountered with the type of ratcheting wrench I used was that the head of the wrench hit the tunnel as I was unscrewing it. Being non-reversible (unless you flip it), I had no choice but to muscle it out. It wasn’t a big deal, but just making note of it.
9. Remove shifter from inside of car.
Note: MGW’s instructions has you remove the rear bracket of the shifter to facilitate to removal of the shifter from inside the car. I left it on and was still able to free it from the car using a little finesse.
Side by side comparison.
10. Remove (2) plastic bushings from stock shifter block.
No picture. Noted plastic bushings are very obvious by the light yellow/white color.
11. Transfer bushings to MGW shifter block.
If new bushings are in the kit, install these in lieu of the factory ones.
Clean off bushings with a clean rag.
Although not required per MGW’s instructions, I put a layer of Krytox grease around the bushings prior to installation into the new shifter block.
Reference pics of the shifter block.
12. Dynamat shifter opening from inside car.
Trim as required. I trimmed off 1 ½” off one end of the Dynamat sheet for better fit (between the forward section of the tunnel to the rear studs).
To make the positioning Dynamat easier, I peeled off only ½ of the backing paper and positioned it in place, then peeled off the remainder.
13. Press Dynamat around shifter hole opening and cut out hole (in Dynamat) approx 1/4” - 1/3” from edge of hole.
Cut a few slits to edge and tuck under the overlap, I cut 4 slits, 90 degrees apart.
14. Set throw setting on MGW linkage block (0-12 turns max out)
MGW’s instructions will have you adjust the throw adjustment from under the car, but I found it easier to adjust it on the table. There’s moderate resistance screwing in/out the block, so there’s little chance of movement when positioning the shifter in place.
Just incase, I temporarily taped it down to prevent movement.
Turn calculation
When linkage block is screwed all the way in (bottomed out), throw reduction (from stock) is approximately 15%. When screwed out 12 turns (max allowable), reduction is 50%.
At 6 turns out, reduction will be 32.5% (my setting).
Formula
((35% / 12) * X) + 15% = Y
X= number of turns out
Y= % of throw reduction of X
14A. Install MGW supplied upper dust boot around shifter center shaft and square base prior to dropping it down into the tunnel.
This step is a deviation from the MGW instructions which has you install the upper dust boot after the shifter is locked down in the car.
Reason: To make installation of the boot easier from better access outside the car.
NOTE: If you're installing the shift stop kit, do not install dust boot in this step; you'll install it in step 24.
15. Insert MGW shifter down from top, triangular rear section FIRST!
16. Re-attach (2) 10mm nuts to shifter and rear studs (from step 6) – SNUG ONLY!
Do not forget to use the supplied large flat and lock washers under the nuts (like I did!).
17. Dynomat bottom of shifter opening; cut and trim to fit. Be sure to cover (2) holes in body in front of shifter cutout (prevents noise and heat from entering cabin).
18. Connect the forward part of trans link arm support to trans using the 10mm bolt (removed from step 8) – USE SUPPLIED LOCKWASHER UNDER HEAD OF BOLT.
Trans link arm support goes on PASSENGER SIDE.
As stipulated in the MGW instructions, start this bolt by hand for at least 6-8 threads to ensure no cross-threading. I used blue Loctite. Tighten all the way.
19. Using the supplied clamp, connect the link arm (rod) to shifter main body support.
Main body support has 1/2 round groove, may have to slightly rotate either assembly to align the rod into the groove (MUST ALIGN PERFECTLY).
Once aligned, use socket/wrench to evenly tighten down both 13mm bolts in clamp. Blue Loctite was used.
20. Tighten the (2) 10mm nuts on the rear studs (from step 16).
21. Remove temporary tape (on linkage block) and insert link arm stud through linkage block and reinstall the 13mm nut (from step 5).
Note: Ensure large BLACK ARROW is pointing to the DRIVERS SIDE when attaching the trans link arm to the linkage block. If throw is being adjusted from underneath the car, it can be used as a reference on how many turns the linkage block is screwed out.
I used Krytox grease on the stud as well as blue Loctite on the nut. Tighten.
IMPORTANT note from MGW: The lock nut on the linkage SHOULD be locked down tight!!! It is designed to actually seat against the rod just prior to locking down on the urethane bushings. You should get on them as if you were tightening down a bolt normally. Do not leave it loose.
The nut also is a lock nut which is why Ford did not need a lock washer. Look at the end of the nut carefully and you will see 3 little prongs sticking inward into the threads. The blue loctite is definitlty a good added safety measure, I just wanted to make sure no one leaves the nut loose when installing it.
22. Use some of the extra Dynomat to fill in any gaps in the shifter to tunnel area from inside the car.
23. Install shift stops at this point if desired (not recommended by MGW). See included directions on installation.
No picture.
24. If you forgot to perform step 14A, install the rubber dust boot at this point in the installation.
Must go all the around the square base. Blowdryer/heatgun may facilitate installation, but be cautious of overheating the rubber, goal is to just make it more pliable.
25. Install Dynomat sound plate barrier around shifter and boot.
Note the (2) slit cutouts for the studs in the rear, also used to correctly index the sound plate.
Work edges under the boot and square shifter base. Objective is to have the sound plate as flat as possible.
This handy Heelys tool that comes with the skate shoes worked perfectly to help tuck the sound barrier under the shifter base. Caution! Don’t use anything sharp or risk cutting into the rubber dust boot!
26. Re-install center console removed from step 2.
27. Install shift handle bracket to shifter center stud using the supplied (2) cap screws and long 3/16 Allen wrench.
Position the handle bracket so the MGW LOGO is facing the DRIVERS SIDE.
Bolt heads used on the handle bracket must be on the PASSENGER SIDE.
Rotate the handle bracket so the back handle stud hole is centered in the console shifter opening, then temporarily snug up.
IMPORTANT! Engage 1st and 2nd gear slowly and check for clearance between the handle bracket and the side of the console. If too close, loosen and rotate the handle bracket accordingly.
After final positioning, tighten the (2) cap screws down.
28. Install the shift knob shaft into the handle bracket.
Align slit in shaft to slit in handle bracket for insertion.
Height of shift knob can be adjusted at this time. Make sure it’s within the range of the slit.
29. Reinstall leather shift boot by snapping it in.
Depending on which handle configuration you opted for, if it’s like mine, you may need a small putty knife to work the leather shift boot shifter hole opening around the rubber grommet of the shift knob shaft.
Note: That lock nut you see on the threaded shaft is part of my Hurst ball kit, not MGW’s.
30. Reinstall shift knob.
31. Check for gear engagement for all gears including reverse prior to first test drive.
Installation complete! 
Note: If shifter throw re-adjustment is necessary, only remove the 13mm lock nut from trans link arm to shifter linkage block. Adjust the throw as outlined in step 14, then re-install lock nut.
First test drive impressions: Fantastic shifter! Positive gear engagement in all gears. Center return springs are strong, but not overbearing. Coming from the Saleen Short Throw Adapter, it's no comparison. MGW hit the mark on this one.
There's only a few components in a car where the driver really connects with the machine. The steering wheel and pedals are a couple examples, but I think the shifter offers one of the greatest connections (right up there with the Go pedal) you can have with the car. With that said, this MGW shifter makes it a drivers car!
Videos (throw is set to 6 turns out):
running thru the gears - engine off
some spirited shifting
normal shifting
normal shifting - top view
< Message edited by TacoBill -- 3/10/2008 8:43:59 AM >
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Current Status: Blown Motor
MMR Street Mod 800 Shortblock Ordered.. yeah, it'll have FORGED internals
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RE: MGW Shifter Installation (with pics and videos) - 4/6/2007 5:31:48 PM
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WhoMe
Posts: 403
Joined: 2/25/2007
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Let me say this, while I am not currently in the market for a shifter that was a great tutorial! That was really great of you to take pictures and layout all the instructions like that. A++++ Job, thanks for sharing it looks great!
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RE: MGW Shifter Installation (with pics and videos) - 4/6/2007 5:47:50 PM
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SOLDSHORT
Posts: 2497
Joined: 3/12/2006
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excellent job, as always!
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RE: MGW Shifter Installation (with pics and videos) - 4/6/2007 5:57:40 PM
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ZZLEGEND
Posts: 606
Joined: 12/28/2006
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all i can say is WOW. that took a lot of effort on your part and a fine job also. i was going to keep my stock shifter but after reading this thread and the other one i seen yesterday, i might just have to go with a new MGW shifter. awesome writeup and pictures.
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RE: MGW Shifter Installation (with pics and videos) - 4/6/2007 6:09:37 PM
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Arwing
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From: Orange County, CA
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Excellent write up
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RE: MGW Shifter Installation (with pics and videos) - 4/6/2007 6:23:03 PM
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odiaz
Posts: 787
Joined: 4/6/2005
From: LI, NY
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Awesome wrtie up as usual Taco Bill!! I'm still waiting for mine to come in. Did you order it with the shift stops? Also, did the white shifter come with the kit?
I ordered the shift stops with mine. I'm glad you showed pictures of the shifter handle. It looks like it is the same finish as on my hurst T shifter handle. It's going to be sacriligious to put a hurst shifter handle on this superior shifter but I like the way the T handle feels.
I can't wait to get mine. Thanks for the great write up, I have a real good idea as to what will be involved now.
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RE: MGW Shifter Installation (with pics and videos) - 4/6/2007 9:39:59 PM
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Stkjock
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WOW!!! not that I'd ever attempt to do such an install... but if I did... that would be the easiest thing to follow!!! terrific!!!
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RE: MGW Shifter Installation (with pics and videos) - 4/6/2007 10:33:10 PM
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Scotty07
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Very nice write up and well done!!!
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RE: MGW Shifter Installation (with pics and videos) - 4/6/2007 10:41:51 PM
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yomofoitzjay
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very clean work!
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RE: MGW Shifter Installation (with pics and videos) - 4/8/2007 11:28:12 PM
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odiaz
Posts: 787
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From: LI, NY
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I found the following video at MGW's web site. Pretty nice!
http://www.mgwltd.com/george/MGW%202...eo(medium).wmv
All vendor's should do this. George is the man!!!
The only thing that worries me a little bit is that the shifter handle shown in the video is not the same as the one Taco Bill showed. The one in Taco Bills write up is much nicer. I hope that's the one that comes with the kit. I can't wait. I feel like a kid waiting for Christmas.
< Message edited by odiaz -- 4/8/2007 11:54:38 PM >
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RE: MGW Shifter Installation (with pics and videos) - 4/9/2007 12:01:01 AM
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Stoenr
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quote:
ORIGINAL: odiaz
I found the following video at MGW's web site. Pretty nice!
http://www.mgwltd.com/george/MGW%202...eo(medium).wmv
All vendor's should do this. George is the man!!!
The only thing that worries me a little bit is that the shifter handle shown in the video is not the same as the one Taco Bill showed. The one in Taco Bills write up is much nicer. I hope that's the one that comes with the kit. I can't wait. I feel like a kid waiting for Christmas.
There is no shift knob in the kit to my knowledge.
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RE: MGW Shifter Installation (with pics and videos) - 4/9/2007 12:07:05 AM
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mlcrycc
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quote:
The only thing that worries me a little bit is that the shifter handle shown in the video is not the same as the one Taco Bill showed. The one in Taco Bills write up is much nicer. I hope that's the one that comes with the kit. I can't wait. I feel like a kid waiting for Christmas.
You should have been asked when you ordered which shift handle you wanted...Either the stock / MGW Gripper Ball thread, or the Hurst thread. I believe the one in Bill's write up is the Hurst handle......
Mike
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RE: MGW Shifter Installation (with pics and videos) - 4/9/2007 12:20:34 AM
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odiaz
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From: LI, NY
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Thanks Mike, that explains it. I wasn't asked which handle I wanted when I placed the order. I did tell them that I had a hurst shifter knob. I hope I get the right one. Just for referrence, this is a picture of your's Mike, it's the same as in the MGW video:
And this is a picture of Taco Bill's.
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RE: MGW Shifter Installation (with pics and videos) - 4/9/2007 1:10:17 AM
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Fireguy28
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Awesome write up!!........I would have never had the patients to take those pics and try and work on the shifter at the sametime.......
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RE: MGW Shifter Installation (with pics and videos) - 4/9/2007 1:19:39 AM
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AmericanMuscle4.6GT
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awesome write up man. one question, do u notice less gear noise with the new setup? the "dynamat" help any in that respect?
your tacobill on youtube, right? you've got all those sweet vids of your car buildup and such?
finally found your way to mustangforums! sweet!
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RE: MGW Shifter Installation (with pics and videos) - 4/9/2007 2:56:38 PM
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Bluestar
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Outstanding writeup as usual Bill, looks like a real high quality product. Have a Taco on me 
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RE: MGW Shifter Installation (with pics and videos) - 4/10/2007 7:11:26 PM
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TacoBill
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Thanks everyone for the kudos!
Replaced a couple of the completed install pics.
I edited step 21 with an important note from MGW.
Also edited step 14A to note the shift stops.
Some demo videos are also up at the end of the install post.
Some answers/clarifications..
Odiaz- Yes, the shift stop kit was included. However, MGW does not recommend the installation of stops kits after consulting with Tremec. Our transmissions have internal stops that are more than adequate. It's suggested that if you do install the stops, the supplied instructions must be followed to the tee, or risk damage to your transmission.
No shift knob is included in this kit. You are given the the choice of which shift handle you want at the time you place your order, SAE or Metric. The stock shift knob uses the Metric, while almost all aftermarket knobs (MGW Gripper and Hurst included) uses the SAE Standard threads.
The Dynamat and sound barrier are extra assurances to keep the sound and heat from entering past the tunnel opening. A nice touch from MGW. I do not notice any vibrations, noise, or feel any heat for that matter.
This is the Hurst ball I got, part number and thread info can be seen in the pic. Should be able to order it from any Hurst Dealer.
Thumbnail Image
 Attachment (1)
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RE: MGW Shifter Installation (with pics and videos) - 
