Posts: 1891
Joined: 9/5/2006 From: Barossa Valley, South Australia Status: offline
Learnt something new today!
there is the ongoing argument that copper disipates heat better than alum, but then alum radiators seem to work better...
It is true that copper is a better medium, BUT... Copper cored radiators also use brass, which is not as good as alum and lead based solder which is way worse than alum...overall worse result.
Positives of old style are cheaper easier to have cleaned out if required repairable adequate to cool stock engines in mild climates
negatives (or positives for alum) add hp (=heat) or hot climate or aircon...the stock sized copper rad may not be up to the job!
there are lots of other considerations in radiator design and cooling system operation and maintenance of course, but for anyone looking to upgrade a radiator, be it copper or alum...add a filter to the top hose to protect your investment!
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A 2007 study found on average Australians walk 900 miles a year. We drink 26 gallons of beer. That means, on average, Australians get about 34 miles per gallon. Not bad hey!
Sage advice indeed as far as the filter on the top hose. I use a piece of screen, neatly installed and invisible to all except the most discerning eye and you would be suprised at the amount of gook that you catch with that screen.
I use a 4 core copper radiator with a factory 4 blade 1967 fan and it stays at about 190 in traffic and creeping up and leveling off at about 200-205. No worries.
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This AFCO aluminum Radiator was $179, fits in the same space as the OEM (no cutting the core support) and cools exceptionally well. Other than originality, I see no other reason not to change.
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James where did you get an Afco alum radiator for 179, i was looking at them and they were in the 300's
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Posts: 1891
Joined: 9/5/2006 From: Barossa Valley, South Australia Status: offline
quote:
ORIGINAL: mustanglover66
? what happens when that filter fills up with crud and how much of a pain is it to change/clean
the tefba filter is a piece of cake and they pull amazing amounts of crud out of any cast iron block, even after a rebuild you still get some scaley deposits.
they fit in the top hose...you just cut a piece out. need 2 extra clamps. They have a screw on cap. Undo it, pull the filter screen, clean it and replace in less than a minute.
They are the best radiator insurance especially if you intend going alum.
A 2007 study found on average Australians walk 900 miles a year. We drink 26 gallons of beer. That means, on average, Australians get about 34 miles per gallon. Not bad hey!
Posts: 1891
Joined: 9/5/2006 From: Barossa Valley, South Australia Status: offline
james has one in his photo too...
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A 2007 study found on average Australians walk 900 miles a year. We drink 26 gallons of beer. That means, on average, Australians get about 34 miles per gallon. Not bad hey!
from what i learned from water cooling a pc with copper cooling blocks distilled water keeps cleaner alot longer and takes longer to pick up scale and other junk you dont want
Sage advice indeed as far as the filter on the top hose. I use a piece of screen, neatly installed and invisible to all except the most discerning eye and you would be suprised at the amount of gook that you catch with that screen.
I use a 4 core copper radiator with a factory 4 blade 1967 fan and it stays at about 190 in traffic and creeping up and leveling off at about 200-205. No worries.
I tried a Gano filter a few years back, installed it in November had no trouble until the following summer. Then the same engine that had NEVER overheated with a 2 row stock radiator was now running 205 with a 3 row unit. When you looked at the water running through the filter you could see the aireation of thr fluid. When I spoke with a radiator shop the owner said he had seen this same thing befor. His advise was NEVER put a screen or any other type filter in your coolant system. Once I removed the Gano filter the car ran at 180 connstant no matter what the driving condition. I was usins a S/W mechanical unit so I know it was accurate.
Sage advice indeed as far as the filter on the top hose. I use a piece of screen, neatly installed and invisible to all except the most discerning eye and you would be suprised at the amount of gook that you catch with that screen.
I use a 4 core copper radiator with a factory 4 blade 1967 fan and it stays at about 190 in traffic and creeping up and leveling off at about 200-205. No worries.
I tried a Gano filter a few years back, installed it in November had no trouble until the following summer. Then the same engine that had NEVER overheated with a 2 row stock radiator was now running 205 with a 3 row unit. When you looked at the water running through the filter you could see the aireation of thr fluid. When I spoke with a radiator shop the owner said he had seen this same thing befor. His advise was NEVER put a screen or any other type filter in your coolant system. Once I removed the Gano filter the car ran at 180 connstant no matter what the driving condition. I was usins a S/W mechanical unit so I know it was accurate.
Yeah, I learned that years ago. I have never, nor will I ever put a screen in my radiator. If it is such a great idea, why doesn't Ford do it at the factory?
The filter works fine. You unscrew the cap and pull the filter..backwash and reinstall. I do it a couple of times when I install the motor..then it stays clean. No affect on cooling whatsoever. Ford doesn't do it because they are cheap and this is a luxury maintenance item.
If your car is overheating... the screen is not the problem you need to be worried about.
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the theory Ive heard regarding alum vs copper/brass is that while copper/brass is better at conducting heat than aluminum, but the aluminum has a higher tensile strength so it can be drawn out thinner, and so it works better than conventional copper/brass radiators. I wish I could remember were I heard this, but it seems to make sense.
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Joined: 1/18/2007 From: Las Cruces, NM Status: offline
I have heard that more surface area can be attained with an aluminum radiator of the same size as a conventional brass/copper radiator.
Going hand in hand with what Decurion said, I have heard is that the tubes can be drawn thinner but longer, therby providing much more surface area, and more "front row" tubes for a given radiator size.
The "front row" tubes cool better because they are not behind other tubes that are already hot.
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Posts: 1891
Joined: 9/5/2006 From: Barossa Valley, South Australia Status: offline
quote:
ORIGINAL: Soaring
Yeah, I learned that years ago. I have never, nor will I ever put a screen in my radiator. If it is such a great idea, why doesn't Ford do it at the factory?
new engines with alloy everything dont create the deposits that our old cast iron stuff does. back then, you just got the radiator cleaned out or recored or bought a new car!!
I'm with James, the Tefba filter wont cause that sort of problem. I'm not familiar with the Gano filter though.
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A 2007 study found on average Australians walk 900 miles a year. We drink 26 gallons of beer. That means, on average, Australians get about 34 miles per gallon. Not bad hey!
The filter works fine. You unscrew the cap and pull the filter..backwash and reinstall. I do it a couple of times when I install the motor..then it stays clean. No affect on cooling whatsoever. Ford doesn't do it because they are cheap and this is a luxury maintenance item.
If your car is overheating... the screen is not the problem you need to be worried about.
What Size Should i get for my 1967 Mustang 289 engine? can i use the stock brackets to install the radiator? or do i need anything else?
And didn't you say in another post you were running temp of 205? That is exactly what I was showing with the Gano and I run a 180 thermostat and I don't want to see anything approaching 205. In that situation you have just about lost control over your coolant temp.
the theory Ive heard regarding alum vs copper/brass is that while copper/brass is better at conducting heat than aluminum, but the aluminum has a higher tensile strength so it can be drawn out thinner, and so it works better than conventional copper/brass radiators. I wish I could remember were I heard this, but it seems to make sense.
If I can remember I'll call Griffin over in Anderson on Monday and ask....but that does sound very familiar. I do know that the best home HVAC units are all copper.
The filter works fine. You unscrew the cap and pull the filter..backwash and reinstall. I do it a couple of times when I install the motor..then it stays clean. No affect on cooling whatsoever. Ford doesn't do it because they are cheap and this is a luxury maintenance item.
If your car is overheating... the screen is not the problem you need to be worried about.
Then please tell me exactly why, as soon as I removed it my coolant temps went back to 180 even while at idle in August with air temps of 102 when in June of that year with air temps of 85 the car ran art 205. The ONLY difference was the removal of the Gano filter. Same pump. thermostat, radiater, heater, fan, shroud etc. When I called Griffin and talked with one of their engineers he said to NEVER put a screen filter in your system due to the aireated. Aireated water does not cool as well as non-aireated water. You can believe what you want but it was the filter.
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copper v alum radiators - 
