- The kit comes with flat top pistons, but do you think dish will work better? - Sorry if this sounds dumb, but what are the main diffrences of both style pistons?
- The kit comes with flat top pistons, but do you think dish will work better? - Sorry if this sounds dumb, but what are the main diffrences of both style pistons?
Corporate work filters prevent me from viewing the links.
A flat top piston is just what it sounds like - the tops are flat (though they probably have either two or four small depressions that provide valve clearance).
The tops of dish pistons look sort of like little bowls. Normal use is to reduce the compression ratio below what would be provided with flat top pistons without giving away all of the quench. I think they tend to run a little heavier, though. You might want them in a stroker motor that's using heads that have small combustion chambers (but do go through the compression ratio math first to make sure).
Either one. The flat tops will give you more compression. Let's see......forged aluminum pistons, Hastings, Keith Black, King...Sounds like American stuff to me.
You're still going to have to compute a few compression ratios based on the heads that you have. That may eliminate one or more choices. The math isn't that tough, and there are some CR calculators and spreadsheets floating around.
And look carefully at the lists of included parts. Ask specific questions about things you don't understand. After all, you're the one who will have to live with the end result.
Here's just a couple of things that I noticed as I was opening up the first two links. Crankshaft material differs from kit to kit (no need for overkill if you aren't going to race it). If you're not comfortable file-fitting your own rings and plan on doing your own assembly, there's at least one kit that you should probably pass up for that reason alone. You will probably have to call the other places to get similar information.
Norm
< Message edited by Norm Peterson -- 3/30/2007 7:19:48 AM >
You're still going to have to compute a few compression ratios based on the heads that you have. That may eliminate one or more choices. The math isn't that tough, and there are some CR calculators and spreadsheets floating around.
And look carefully at the lists of included parts. Ask specific questions about things you don't understand. After all, you're the one who will have to live with the end result.
Here's just a couple of things that I noticed as I was opening up the first two links. Crankshaft material differs from kit to kit (no need for overkill if you aren't going to race it). If you're not comfortable file-fitting your own rings and plan on doing your own assembly, there's at least one kit that you should probably pass up for that reason alone. You will probably have to call the other places to get similar information.
Norm
i dont have any heads yet. Are you saying that i should look for a good stroker/heads combo that will work good together?
< Message edited by ShAkE N BaKe!! -- 3/30/2007 3:49:08 PM >
In order to be able to run pump gas, my compression should be under 11:1 right? well, is it better to try to get as close as possiblr to that number or try to get it as low as possible?
Reason Im thinkin of getting all forged is because I know Im goin to be doin a lot of "daily" hard driving. - or, do you guys think Ill be fine with cast? Which would be this kit.
FORGED. You want forged. Plus, then you can always spray it later on (if you feel like burning your engine quicker). As for heads, you want aluminum. My 408 runs on premium octane pump gas. Compresion ration is 10.1 to 1. I wouldnt go any higher if I were you.
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Mods: 408W- forged rotating assembly T5- Texas Motorsports 9" rear- Quick Performance: 3.73 trac-lock Dual M-134 miniguns- so dont disagree with my posts!!
Those headers I was telling you about I found them at cj pony parts. Part# exhd6 I am sure you can find them just about anywhere. The pic in the catalog is that set.