New to the stang world

ZonaMuscle · 03-22-2007, 02:31 PM

Well first off hello fellas. I just recently purchased a 69 mustang coupe grande.It needs alot of work, but it i got it for 500 bucks. Pics will be added sometime today. Heres a little about it. The guy before me had it for about 20 years and has moved back and forth with it from AZ and Wisc. So i know there will be some rust. The motor looked great, its a 302 with an AT trans. It came with an edelbrock performance RPM intake, but no carb on it. It has some headers and dual flow masters on it as well.

RUST - The only rust ive seen so far is on both doors, both front Q panels, floor pans and possible the firewall.

I know about cars, but not so much body work and not so much older cars. Im 23 yrs old so this cars 2x my age. I guess my question to you guys is how difficult is replacing the floor pans. I can do the rest of the body work i think, i have just never worked with rust before. Also im having a tuff time finding how to take the backseat off, any help on that would be great aswell as any books that would further assist me in my long project. Thanks

ZonaMuscle

scott_m_mil · 03-22-2007, 02:35 PM

Find yourself a bowl of pretzels some soda and hit up the FAQ section. That could occupy a good day or so.

sxs191 · 03-22-2007, 02:46 PM

If the back seat is anything like my 68 coupe you have to take the bottom cushion off first. There are two bolts under the front of the seat you have to remove and then lift up hard on the front of the seat. The back cushion has two bolts also at the bottom you have to remove before you lift up on it. Floor pans are easy if you know how to weld and have a welder. An air chizel comes in pretty handy also for getting the old ones out. BTW... Welcome to the forum. Plenty of knowledge floating around in here.

boogerschnot · 03-22-2007, 06:29 PM

Sweet,, you got a better deal than I did,, I just got the same car for 1300,, but mine runs just no exhaust past the stock manifolds.. Thats pretty funny.. You need to pull up on the back seat,, it sits in a grove on the back dash and kind of locks in..so you cant pull it forward.. Im 24 and in the same boat.. I dont think replacing your floorpans is going to be that bad,, as long as you can weld,, its not like anyone will be looking at them anyway.. But the body work,, depending on how deep the rust is you may just be able to put some putty on to fill in small patches,, but if you are rusting through patch pannels are the way to go... The only thing I am going to have to do for body work, is a little puttying of the lower door pannels and get a new hood because the very tip of mine is pushed in and kinked on the ridge The interior is already gutted and awaiting sanding and primer/ and a interior kit.. cant wait to get into it.. Im loving the damn thing..
Hey,, when you get the carb on and fire it up let me know how it sounds,, Im debating if I want flowmaster D 40's or D50's .. with headers of course.. But hey, congrats and welcome...

sxs191 · 03-22-2007, 06:38 PM

Correction... Boogershnot is right. The bottom cushion is held in place by a groove (no bolts as I prevoiusly stated) just yank up on that sucker. The back cushion is in placce by two bolts at the bottom.

ZonaMuscle · 03-22-2007, 07:43 PM

Ok so i just got done pulling all the seats, the dash and carpet out. The floor pans are rusted mainly on the driver side at the feet. Thats the only place that it went through. Would it be better to replace the whole pan or just weld some sheet metal over that section??

Soaring · 03-22-2007, 07:50 PM

Your best bet is to replace the driver's side pan. I say that because if you just weld over the rusty part, you will be trapping moisture between the two metals and the cancer will continue. Now, if you are a skilled welder, you could cut out the cancer and butt weld a new chunk of metal in there.

baddog671 · 03-22-2007, 09:03 PM

If it was me, I would just get a 1-piece floor. It will be alittle expensive(roughly 500) but saves time welding, lining up, and has a better fit.