I'm doin my hood this weekend. I'm on my 3rd coat, wet sanded after the first 2 and she likes to keep the orange peel. So i was wondering from those of you who have done it how did u get decent flatness? And how thick did u put on the paint?
Not personally with rustoleum but pain in general, the books i have they key in on the sanding. If orange peel shows up ,then you sand it away. then you should be done. maybe lay it on thicker and sand off more when you finish, then a good buff job should do the trick. Im taking mine down to bare metal and i know the feeling of not wanting to sand deeper. but the peel should dissappear after the final sanding. Good luck!!!
You said your on two coats. what coats?(Primer,Sealer,Clear,Paint)
I've been doing my car for a month now, and perfecting the process. I had a lot of orange peel first but to go back to what the original post from the Mopar forums stated, "you have to get the right consistency". It sounds like your paint is not thin enough.
My experience so far is that I have a tendency to want to get the most coverage from each coat. I had to throw that notion out. Thin the paint to the consistency of milk and apply it. The bubbles created by the rolling should all disappear within 2 minutes, but most will be gone it a matter of seconds. If you have orange peel either take the time to sand it all out. It sounds to me like you are not putting enough mineral spirits in the paint so it is not thin enough to flatten out.
I have been applying white paint and I am not getting coverage over a burgandy color until at least the 5th coat. I purchased a new front valance panel and it came painted black. I bet I have 10 coats on that sucker, but it looks really nice now.
For the first 2 coats I have been using 600 grit to sand, and then 1000 after each 2 coats from there. After the last coat I used 2000 grit before going to a Meguiar's Glazing compound. I tried the rubbing compund, and the Polishing compound, but I never got the sheen I was after. Perhaps a more expensive polishing compound would be good, but I used the Turtle wax product ($5) that was suggested in the original post.
I also done a darker color and I found that the paint didn't apply as well, but the white I am using now is coming out great. What color are you applying?
Let me know if I can help in anyway.
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Niteshade
1966 Mustang Coupe 289
2001 Honda Accord
2004 Toyota RAV4
I'm doing Glossy Black. And yeah u sound right, just not enough acetone. I'ma wait for this coat to dry then i'ma wetsand it with 1000 grit. If it still looks iffy i will do another coat with noticble more acetone.
I'm doing Glossy Black. And yeah u sound right, just not enough acetone. I'ma wait for this coat to dry then i'ma wetsand it with 1000 grit. If it still looks iffy i will do another coat with noticble more acetone.
Are you using this rustoleum as a finish paint?
Either way you should be able to do your preliminary sanding at 400 grit wet, and then if you need to sand out the final coat use 1000 or 1500 then rub out/polish.
It is my understanding that orange peel is somewhat a mystery as to why it happens sometimes and not others, although temperature is often a factor. At times,what we think of as orange peel is oil, wax, or silicone migrating through the paint from the surface. It is "wicked up" by the solvents in the paint. When this happens it will continue to show with each coat. (not saying this is your issue)
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i was planning to start this tomorrow on my car and was wondering, approximately how many coats could i expect to need for full coverage? i heard to expect for it to take about 7 coats, how does that sound? and does anyone know how long i should wait between coats? the weather is great this week and i want to get it done while it looks good. thanks
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this to me is still a crazy idea id rather rattle can prime a car then rent a paint gun,compresor and lay down some single stage and if it doesnt turn out then do it again alot less labor intensive also
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For those of you who painted with rustoleum
