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Information - 2/7/2007 12:27:34 PM
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Hisss04Cobra
Posts: 1720
Joined: 4/27/2005
Status: offline
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Ok, here are some quick litle run downs, of a few questions I see posted here on a regular basis.
What is bridging an amp Hiss?
Bridging literally refers to taking two channels of an amp and combining them to turn the amp into a one channel amp.
Woah, Hiss, what exactly is going on when I bridge my amp then? More or less, you are combining two channels into one, to get twice the voltage.
Well, Hiss, why should I do it?
When you bridge an amp you get more power from it. You can put out somewhere near 4 times more power through a bridged channel than you can through a non-bridged channel.
Awesome Hiss, i'm going to go bridge my amp right now! Wait.
Bridging an amp can cause distortion. Another reason you should hold out on bridging your amp, is because it might be unable to remain stable at that load that your speakers present.
Hiss! What's the best brand of speakers/Comp sets??!! My homeboyz say it's ___, and ___.
THERE ARE NO BEST BRAND OF SPEAKERS. When comparing what is the top of the line speaker, you are generally comparing what sounds best to you. AlthoughI can't tell you the best speaker for you, I will relate you to some quality brands.
- MB Quarts
- Boston Acoustics
- CDT's
- Memphis
- Focal's
Hiss, you are the man! I went out and bought me some tight subz and the sweetest amp ever G!!@$@! But why do my headlights keep dimming dawg?!?!?
Well, your headlights are dimming because there is a drop in the voltage level that is available to all your vehicles power using accesories. The dimming is probobly being caused by the extremely large current demanded by your new amp.
Your best bet is to firstly, check all your wiring. Then go check the battery, and altenator for problems.
If everything seems to be in working order, then you might be in need of upgrading to another battery, or a new altenator.
Most problems of headlight dimming can be solved by upgrading the Big 3.
HISS!!! WHAT ARE THE BIG 3!!! AHHH!!
The BIG 3
- The Altenator to the Battery
- The Battery to the Chasis
- The Engine ground to the Chasis
The changing of these 3 wires to a larger guage can not only help your electrical system, but it can benifit you in any competition you may enter.
Keep this in mind when deciding what awg to choose, always look at the power charts of your amp, and if it requires 4 awg then use no less than 4 awg. Use 2 awg if you can, and if you are feeling nutty, go all out and use 0/1.
Ok i'm done for now, maybe someone can sticky this, that would be nice.
GOD bless kids.
Have fun with all your audio desires.
< Message edited by Hisss04Cobra -- 2/7/2007 12:30:21 PM >
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RE: Information - 2/7/2007 12:39:37 PM
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PReal
Posts: 2087
Joined: 8/28/2006
Status: offline
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Brands I like for various equipment in no order:
Speakers (Components):
1. CDT
2. Boston Acoustics
3. Resonent Engineering
4. Elemental Designs (Basically CDT HD)
5. Diamond Audio Hex and M6
6. Crystal (Great for the money)
7. Rainbow
8. Eclipse
9. Image Dynamics (Horns FTW)
10. MB Quart (Low line stuff is really harsh)
11. Oz Audio
12. Polk (Momo's and DB Comps)
13. Focal (High end stuf only)
14. Custom active setup with Dayton Euro mids and tweets. (Very nice if proper active crossover is utilized)
15. Dynaudio
Subs:
1. Eclipse 81XX and 82XX series
2. Resonent Engineering
3. Elemetnal Designs
5. Image Dynamics
6. Arc Audio
7. Incrimator Audio (SPL)
8. Fi audio (never heard but get great reviews)
9. Rainbow
10. Adire Audio
Amps:
1. Profile (Cheap, reliable, and puts out rated power)
2. Diamond Audio D5,D6,D7
3. Brax
4. Tru Technology
5. Arc Audio
6. Resonent Engineering
7. Elemental Designs
8. PPI Art Series
9. Old Soundstream
10. Memphis
11. McIntosh
Those are just off the top of my head.
< Message edited by PReal -- 2/7/2007 12:42:25 PM >
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RE: Information - 2/7/2007 12:46:22 PM
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Jazzer The Cat
Posts: 2165
Joined: 6/8/2006
From: SF Bay Area
Status: offline
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"Hiss, you are the man! I went out and bought me some tight subz and the sweetest amp ever G!!@$@! But why do my headlights keep dimming dawg?!?!?"
That is classic 
The Jazzer
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The Jazzer's egomaniacal road trip down look-at-me lane
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RE: Information - 2/7/2007 12:49:21 PM
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PReal
Posts: 2087
Joined: 8/28/2006
Status: offline
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We need to clean everything up and make a sticky.
Then when ignorace is upon the forum, we can send them to the sticky.
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RE: Information - 2/7/2007 12:51:39 PM
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PReal
Posts: 2087
Joined: 8/28/2006
Status: offline
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Who is the mod of this section of the board?
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RE: Information - 2/7/2007 12:52:53 PM
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PReal
Posts: 2087
Joined: 8/28/2006
Status: offline
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If I can find my explanation of why one size of sub isn't "tighter" then the other, that might also be helpful.
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RE: Information - 2/9/2007 2:59:46 AM
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Sprzout
Posts: 1204
Joined: 12/10/2006
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Ok...Dumb question, very newb like, I'm sure, but...
Let's say I'm looking to do some audio upgrades for my Mustang. Since I'm primarily a classic rock type of guy, I like to have something that's got a tiny bit of bass thump, midrange tweeters, and good vocal levels for sound.
What should I look for in upgrading my sound system to something that's going to provide me with a fuller, richer sound than the tinny head unit that came in my car? Regardless of brand of speakers/amps/head units/etc, can I get some basics as to what to look for in setting up quality audio for my car?
Thanks!
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2007 Tungsten Grey Mustang GT
Bone stock
1974 Chevrolet Corvette (in the process of rebuilding)
1967 Jaguar E-Type 2+2 4.2L, British Racing Green, aka The Green Penis
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RE: Information - 2/9/2007 10:04:53 AM
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PReal
Posts: 2087
Joined: 8/28/2006
Status: offline
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The first step to quality audio is the front stage and source unit.
The signal starts with a nice headunit that has reasonably high output voltage, and lots of nice options. I prefer one that has built in high and low pass crossovers. That means you can eliminate unwanted frequencies at the source instead of your amp.
After the souce is upgraded an amplified component set is the best way to improve your overall sound. The amps inside headunits are weak so a stand alone amplifier is needed for optimal frequency reproduction.
A component set has separate mids, tweets and crossovers. One key factor often over looked is the install of the front stage speakers. Make sure to use lots of sound deadener on your doors and I use sound deadener to seal the doors as well. Sometimes if the speaker mounting location is plastic and rattles, some modeling clay can be used to dampen the vibrations.
The second step is in low frequency production.
If you follow the insrcutions above, you will have much better full range sound and a drastic improvment in midbass and bass. If you would like to further augment your sound for more percussion in the low end, buy a sub.
If you like your music faithfully reproduced I prefer to install a sub in a small sealed enclouse for optimal suspenion stiffness. This means that your sub only moves when it is driven. An poorly sealed or ported enclosure uses the usupension material to return the cone to its origin, when you use pressure the bass does not tend to lag as poorly. Low frequencies take a lot of power to generate, so a powerful amplifier is needed. More deadening should take place around the sub to reduce vibrations and then you should be good to go.
Third, any professional that prefers quality of sound to quantity of sound will inform you that rear speakers are not recommended. There are two ways to think about this. You do not go to a concert and turn around to hear from behind you, so why would you want that sensation in a car. Also wouldn't you rather spend any additional money in the budget to further upgrade the frontstage that you actually hear. If you have rear passengers, and you have followed the above insturctions, they will be able to hear.
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RE: Information - 2/9/2007 5:55:36 PM
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seight311
Posts: 2199
Joined: 7/28/2005
Status: offline
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I have a bunch of things I started to type to make a sticky like this I think me and hiss talked about this but it never went through... I'll look around
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RE: Information - 2/20/2007 7:31:35 PM
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seight311
Posts: 2199
Joined: 7/28/2005
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FAQ's in the Audio/Video Forum
How do I hook up an aftermarket CD player to my Mach 460 Audio System?
FD03B
This is the harness you will need; there are a few companies that make them. This is what it will look like though, this particular one is from Scosche.
This piece is also for head units that have front and rear audio outputs. Many head units under $200 will not have these. Yes there is another way to put in the head unit you want but this is the cleanest and best way to do it. This is of course if you insist on utilizing your Mach amps. I do suggest getting aftermarket amplifiers and speakers for the best sound, but many people are satisfied with this solution.
OEA4
This is an interface you can use if your head unit doesn't have RCA outputs. I won't perform near as well but it will work. Again this is close to what it should look like this is the product from Scosche.
Where’s the best place to run my power wire for an amplifier?
NEVER run your power wire through the door jam. It can start a fire this has happened to many people that wanted to save time, and actually on Mustangs it’s easier and less time consuming to run the wire through the grommet I’m going to show you. So there is no excuse to ever use the door jam. These pictures are from a SN95 Mustang, look for similair grommets for you Foxbody. The 99-04 layout is very similiar to SN95 firewall.
This picture was taken from the left side of my brake pedal. Refer to where the steering shaft is located to find which grommet to run your wire through.
This is where the grommet is located if you look under your hood. This picture was taken from the suspension tower on the driver’s side of the vehicle.
How do I wire my subwoofers correctly?
Here’s a link that will tell you exactly how to wire your subwoofers correctly, and to achieve your desired impedance. Simply open the page, click whether you have Single Voice Coil or Dual Voice Coil subwoofers and it will show you how to wire them with up to 6 subwoofers.
Subwoofer Diagrams
What is the model number for a battery that will fit in my Mustang?
Odyssey Batteries PC1200
Stinger Electronics SP1000
Stinger Electronics SPV 44
Northstar NSB75
Kinetik Audio HC800
Optima 34/
I want better SQ and SPL, I need a Capacitor right?
After studying a little history on large 1 Farad capacitors in car audio, you'd be amazed that they even sell at all. How useful are they? What do they really do? Will a Cap 'improve' my sound quality? Will it Prevent my lights from dimming? Will it audibly affect my audio system in any way?
Before you get the truth to any of the above questions, chances are, you've probably spent $100 or more on one of these devices. However, let's study a little history regarding this issue.
A long time ago, in a land far away, 2 elves...Ok, Richard Clark & Wayne Harris (Carsound magazine and the inventor of DB Drag, respectively) separately came up with a solution to preventing their lights from dimming.
WHO WERE THESE GUYZ?
As you may know, Richard Clark is one of the founders of autosound2000 Tech Briefs, Carsound magazine, and a published author of the industry of mobile electronics. In SQ competitions, he posted a record of 1234 1st place finishes, and only ended up NOT 1st in his first event. I've heard that he had minor system problems, but judging by his record, he must have corrected it. (evidently, he needed a Capacitor )
Wayne Harris was previously a leader at Rockford Fosgate in their development. Later, in his free time, he created the organization we call DB DRAG. Wayne was the first SQ World Champion from the organization we know as IASCA (International AutoSound Challenge Association).
Both of these gurus are both legends, and considered the leading experts in the field. During their competition days, both guyz came up with a way to assist in the prevention of voltage drops. In SQ competitions, the look of your system is actually more important than the sound, and having your lights NOT dim under high playing levels is a competitive advantage.
As you may know, an amplifiers is made up a battery of little capacitors, resistors, etc. What has been common engineering knowledge is that capacitors store energy, and more or bigger ones assist in balancing the power supply.
Wayne came up with the idea of putting several dozen 'little' (approx 100uF) capacitors on a circuit board to 'extend' the power supplies storage. At about the same time, or shortly afterward, Richard came up with the idea of one huge mondo capacitor (I believe it was 800,000uF or 0.8F) to do the job.
Eventually, Richard won. The large cylindrical tubes won over the complicated 48 caps strapped to a circuit board. However, what did this really accomplish? Let's start here:
WHAT IS A CAPACITOR?
Basically, capacitors are an energy storage device. Large, 1 Farad or more
capacitors store energy (electrons) between their plates. Capacitors differ
from batteries because batteries store energy in the form of chemical
energy--and rely on acid as the place of storage. For a more detailed
description of a capacitor, go here:
www.eatel.net/~amptech/el...raudio.htm
Then on the right hand side, scroll down to CAPACITOR. Keep in mind the use
of capacitors in an audio system.
WHY DO PEOPLE BUY CAPACITORS?
The number 1 reason would have to be because their lights dim when their
system is playing HARD. In car audio, we are told that a capacitor is
designed to prevent the voltage drop associated with your lights dimming.
The number2 reason is that it is rumored to 'improve' sound quality or
'stiffen' the power supply/source.
WHY DO MY LIGHTS DIM?
Headlights brightness is in direct proportion to the source voltage. For
instance, if your car is running, system voltage is ~12.5 -14.4 VOLTS. Your
lights will be much brighter than when your car is turned off--where battery
voltage is ~12V. Most car alternators put out between 75 to 120 amps of
current. When this current draw threshold of the charging system is
exceeded, system voltage will drop as power demands are now shared by the
alternator and the storage devices (battery & cap). We are using battery
reserves beyond this point until the demand lessens
When playing your system really hard. Your lights dim because your
alternator can't keep up it's charging voltage (around 13.8V) and therefore,
demand exceeds output. When this happens, your electronic devices are
dipping into the power storage of the battery. Since the battery stores
power at ~ 12-12.5V, there is a 1.3 to 1.8V drop in voltage available. This
in turn is why your lights dim down.
HOW MUCH POWER DOES A CAPACITOR STORE?
1 Farad = 100 joules or 100W/second
850cca battery = ~2,200,000 farads
For storage purposes, you'd need ~2,200 1 Farad capacitors to equal the energy of your battery.
Due to its impedence (ESR & ESL), a cap's energy is only 50% available. What's worse, is that in order for a 1 Farad cap to discharge, first the alternator output must have maxed out, and the voltage must have dropped around 1.5 volts. But I thought a cap was supposed to prevent that (voltage drop)!!!!!????? Yep, you got the point.
IF A BATTERY = 2,200 CAPS, THEN WHY BUY A (PUNY) CAP?
My question exactly. Marketing is the reason why people buy caps. In many cases, upgrading wiring will help your system get the maximum transfer of current. Once that has been reached, adding a capacitor may have a minor effect on your system. 50W over the course of a second is not a lot of power considering an amplifier may draw 2000W to put out 1400 watts. Let's look at the situation from a resources standpoint.
Alternator 80 amps
Car accessories (minus stereo) 40 amps
Car Audio system (DRAWS ) ~200 amps AT FULL OUTPUT
In this case, you have 240 amps of draw, but only 80 amps of current from the alternator. In your case, you need 160 amps x 12 volts or or let's say 1920 watts of energy. Since a cap stores 50W, how much of a difference do you think it's going to make? A cap is a peashooter, and we need a Howitzer 150 calibre cannon.
Also, Once a cap is discharged, where does it get it's power from? The alternator, which is already overloaded. Once a cap is discharged, it's worthless. Like justin says, “..The cap already shot its wad, an does limp til recharged…” you get the drift.
SO, WHAT IS A CAPACITOR GOOD FOR?
1. Audio Jewelry- impress chicks with large cylindrical shiny thingy
2. Extra weight in winter time
3. A very POOR... BUT expensive distribution block
4. A projectile in the event of a crash
5. Rolling pin--for cooking purposes
6. A neat thing to tell your friend, "..Hey man, lick the top of this..
Please do not try # 6. New hairstyles are always refreshing, but if you are wearing railroad tracks across your teeth, you might have one big filling after it’s over.
HOW CAN CAPACITORS IMPROVE SOUND QUALITY?
They can't. Sound quality is not dependant upon the presence of large bulky 1 Farad capacitors. How many 1 Farad Capacitors do you think the Boston Pops, Aerosmith, or Snoop dog use in the recording studio?
IN A NUTSHELL.......
When Richard, our fearless inventor, became World renown for winning every competition under the sun, people began copying what he did. Soon, every 'serious' competitor had a 'stiffening' capacitor--not to be confused with the 'loosening' capacitor.
WHY?
In the late 80s, people began sticking out their tongue when dunking the basketball because Michael Jordan did. Did sticking out your tongue improve your dunking ability? Same here with adding a capacitor to your electrical system.
STILL A GLUTTON FOR MORE PUNISHMENT?
Here's the Original Cap Debate.
www.carsound.com/ubb/Arch...00307.html
Phoenix Gold's marketing guru had just posted information on how their Powercore (basically the Alumapro CAP15 in a Phoenix shell) had both stabilized their voltage and improved the sound quality. Richard called him on it (all in another post) and the marketing geek was unable to quantify any of the conditions that resulted in the voltage being HELD at 14.2V and the 'improved' sound quality.
Please do not read every stinking post as valid. There are a lot of people that have had the efficacy of capacitors inbred to their minds, and were not (and still not) convinced in the futility of a 1 Farad storage device.
In a final note, Richard relayed a quote regarding battcaps ( www.battcap.net ) as, "..The audio industry is the only place i know of where you can publish specs that show your product is useless and still be able to sell them------and whats worse is that technically ignorant people will argue against the math!!!!!!!..............RC.." when referring to the product. This also relates to most digital readout capacitors.
< Message edited by seight311 -- 3/18/2007 8:49:52 PM >
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RE: Information - 2/20/2007 7:34:08 PM
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seight311
Posts: 2199
Joined: 7/28/2005
Status: offline
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P.S. we need to delete some of the clutter on here and just have the facts posted. Like the D-Bag that decided to ask a question in this thread, get the junk out!
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RE: Information - 2/26/2007 9:28:08 PM
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mustangman02232
Posts: 11576
Joined: 12/22/2004
From: Ludlow, Mass
Status: offline
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link for reading on caps
http://3.8mustang.com/forum/showthread.php?t=176417
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02 232 4R70W, MAC LTs, Catted H pipe, 2.5 Catback with force pro series mufflers, VMP SCT X-cal 3, 3.73s, Detroit true trac, minor appearance crap
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