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Hisss04Cobra -> Information (2/7/2007 12:27:34 PM)






Ok, here are some quick litle run downs, of a few questions I see posted here on a regular basis.


What is bridging an amp Hiss?
Bridging literally refers to taking two channels of an amp and combining them to turn the amp into a one channel amp.

Woah, Hiss, what exactly is going on when I bridge my amp then? More or less, you are combining two channels into one, to get twice the voltage.

Well, Hiss, why should I do it?
When you bridge an amp you get more power from it. You can put out somewhere near 4 times more power through a bridged channel than you can through a non-bridged channel.

Awesome Hiss, i'm going to go bridge my amp right now! Wait.
Bridging an amp can cause distortion. Another reason you should hold out on bridging your amp, is because it might be unable to remain stable at that load that your speakers present.












Hiss! What's the best brand of speakers/Comp sets??!! My homeboyz say it's ___, and ___.

THERE ARE NO BEST BRAND OF SPEAKERS. When comparing what is the top of the line speaker, you are generally comparing what sounds best to you. AlthoughI can't tell you the best speaker for you, I will relate you to some quality brands.
  1. MB Quarts
  2. Boston Acoustics
  3. CDT's
  4. Memphis
  5. Focal's











Hiss, you are the man! I went out and bought me some tight subz and the sweetest amp ever G!!@$@! But why do my headlights keep dimming dawg?!?!?

Well, your headlights are dimming because there is a drop in the voltage level that is available to all your vehicles power using accesories. The dimming is probobly being caused by the extremely large current demanded by your new amp.

Your best bet is to firstly, check all your wiring. Then go check the battery, and altenator for problems.

If everything seems to be in working order, then you might be in need of upgrading to another battery, or a new altenator.

Most problems of headlight dimming can be solved by upgrading the Big 3.










HISS!!! WHAT ARE THE BIG 3!!! AHHH!!

The BIG 3
  1. The Altenator to the Battery
  2. The Battery to the Chasis
  3. The Engine ground to the Chasis

The changing of these 3 wires to a larger guage can not only help your electrical system, but it can benifit you in any competition you may enter.

Keep this in mind when deciding what awg to choose, always look at the power charts of your amp, and if it requires 4 awg then use no less than 4 awg. Use 2 awg if you can, and if you are feeling nutty, go all out and use 0/1.












Ok i'm done for now, maybe someone can sticky this, that would be nice.


GOD   bless kids.

Have fun with all your audio desires.


  

PReal -> RE: Information (2/7/2007 12:39:37 PM)

Brands I like for various equipment in no order:

Speakers (Components):
1. CDT
2. Boston Acoustics
3. Resonent Engineering
4. Elemental Designs (Basically CDT HD)
5. Diamond Audio Hex and M6
6. Crystal (Great for the money)
7. Rainbow
8. Eclipse
9. Image Dynamics (Horns FTW)
10. MB Quart (Low line stuff is really harsh)
11. Oz Audio
12. Polk (Momo's and DB Comps)
13. Focal (High end stuf only)
14. Custom active setup with Dayton Euro mids and tweets. (Very nice if proper active crossover is utilized)
15. Dynaudio

Subs:
1. Eclipse 81XX and 82XX series
2. Resonent Engineering
3. Elemetnal Designs
5. Image Dynamics
6. Arc Audio
7. Incrimator Audio (SPL)
8. Fi audio (never heard but get great reviews)
9. Rainbow
10. Adire Audio

Amps:
1. Profile (Cheap, reliable, and puts out rated power)
2. Diamond Audio D5,D6,D7
3. Brax
4. Tru Technology
5. Arc Audio
6. Resonent Engineering
7. Elemental Designs
8. PPI Art Series
9. Old Soundstream
10. Memphis
11. McIntosh

Those are just off the top of my head.


Hisss04Cobra -> RE: Information (2/7/2007 12:42:32 PM)

On amps, Mcintosh, and Zapco make some amazing amps, but they are pricey.


Also, Resonant Engineering got bought out by US Amps, and now they are produced somewhere in China. They don't make quality stuff like the old drivers.


Jazzer The Cat -> RE: Information (2/7/2007 12:46:22 PM)

"Hiss, you are the man! I went out and bought me some tight subz and the sweetest amp ever G!!@$@! But why do my headlights keep dimming dawg?!?!?"

That is classic [:)]

The Jazzer


Hisss04Cobra -> RE: Information (2/7/2007 12:47:18 PM)

quote:

ORIGINAL: Jazzer The Cat

"Hiss, you are the man! I went out and bought me some tight subz and the sweetest amp ever G!!@$@! But why do my headlights keep dimming dawg?!?!?"

That is classic [:)]

The Jazzer


Glad we can agree on something [:D]


Jazzer The Cat -> RE: Information (2/7/2007 12:48:20 PM)

Word Up, Hiss


PReal -> RE: Information (2/7/2007 12:49:21 PM)

We need to clean everything up and make a sticky.

Then when ignorace is upon the forum, we can send them to the sticky.


Hisss04Cobra -> RE: Information (2/7/2007 12:50:37 PM)

quote:

ORIGINAL: PReal

We need to clean everything up and make a sticky.

Then when ignorace is upon the forum, we can send them to the sticky.

Roflcopter, yes. I asked ROTM to sticky this. We can build off this.


PReal -> RE: Information (2/7/2007 12:51:39 PM)

Who is the mod of this section of the board?


PReal -> RE: Information (2/7/2007 12:52:53 PM)

If I can find my explanation of why one size of sub isn't "tighter" then the other, that might also be helpful.


Hisss04Cobra -> RE: Information (2/7/2007 12:56:56 PM)

quote:

ORIGINAL: PReal

If I can find my explanation of why one size of sub isn't "tighter" then the other, that might also be helpful.

Hahahahah, i guess i'll need to start on my, "Why you don't need a capacitator." Thread.


Sprzout -> RE: Information (2/9/2007 2:59:46 AM)

Ok...Dumb question, very newb like, I'm sure, but...

Let's say I'm looking to do some audio upgrades for my Mustang. Since I'm primarily a classic rock type of guy, I like to have something that's got a tiny bit of bass thump, midrange tweeters, and good vocal levels for sound.

What should I look for in upgrading my sound system to something that's going to provide me with a fuller, richer sound than the tinny head unit that came in my car? Regardless of brand of speakers/amps/head units/etc, can I get some basics as to what to look for in setting up quality audio for my car?

Thanks!


PReal -> RE: Information (2/9/2007 10:04:53 AM)

The first step to quality audio is the front stage and source unit.

The signal starts with a nice headunit that has reasonably high output voltage, and lots of nice options. I prefer one that has built in high and low pass crossovers. That means you can eliminate unwanted frequencies at the source instead of your amp.

After the souce is upgraded an amplified component set is the best way to improve your overall sound. The amps inside headunits are weak so a stand alone amplifier is needed for optimal frequency reproduction.

A component set has separate mids, tweets and crossovers. One key factor often over looked is the install of the front stage speakers. Make sure to use lots of sound deadener on your doors and I use sound deadener to seal the doors as well. Sometimes if the speaker mounting location is plastic and rattles, some modeling clay can be used to dampen the vibrations.

The second step is in low frequency production.

If you follow the insrcutions above, you will have much better full range sound and a drastic improvment in midbass and bass. If you would like to further augment your sound for more percussion in the low end, buy a sub.

If you like your music faithfully reproduced I prefer to install a sub in a small sealed enclouse for optimal suspenion stiffness. This means that your sub only moves when it is driven. An poorly sealed or ported enclosure uses the usupension material to return the cone to its origin, when you use pressure the bass does not tend to lag as poorly. Low frequencies take a lot of power to generate, so a powerful amplifier is needed. More deadening should take place around the sub to reduce vibrations and then you should be good to go.

Third, any professional that prefers quality of sound to quantity of sound will inform you that rear speakers are not recommended. There are two ways to think about this. You do not go to a concert and turn around to hear from behind you, so why would you want that sensation in a car. Also wouldn't you rather spend any additional money in the budget to further upgrade the frontstage that you actually hear. If you have rear passengers, and you have followed the above insturctions, they will be able to hear.


seight311 -> RE: Information (2/9/2007 5:55:36 PM)

I have a bunch of things I started to type to make a sticky like this I think me and hiss talked about this but it never went through... I'll look around


seight311 -> RE: Information (2/20/2007 7:31:35 PM)

FAQ's in the Audio/Video Forum
How do I hook up an aftermarket CD player to my Mach 460 Audio System?
[image]http://www.scosche.com/CatalogImages/image.aspx/FD03B.jpg[/image]
FD03B
This is the harness you will need; there are a few companies that make them. This is what it will look like though, this particular one is from Scosche.
This piece is also for head units that have front and rear audio outputs. Many head units under $200 will not have these. Yes there is another way to put in the head unit you want but this is the cleanest and best way to do it. This is of course if you insist on utilizing your Mach amps. I do suggest getting aftermarket amplifiers and speakers for the best sound, but many people are satisfied with this solution.
[image]http://www.scosche.com/CatalogImages/image.aspx/OEA4.jpg[/image]
OEA4
This is an interface you can use if your head unit doesn't have RCA outputs. I won't perform near as well but it will work. Again this is close to what it should look like this is the product from Scosche.


Where’s the best place to run my power wire for an amplifier?
NEVER run your power wire through the door jam. It can start a fire this has happened to many people that wanted to save time, and actually on Mustangs it’s easier and less time consuming to run the wire through the grommet I’m going to show you. So there is no excuse to ever use the door jam. These pictures are from a SN95 Mustang, look for similair grommets for you Foxbody. The 99-04 layout is very similiar to SN95 firewall.
[image]http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f370/seight311/INside.jpg[/image]
This picture was taken from the left side of my brake pedal. Refer to where the steering shaft is located to find which grommet to run your wire through.
[image]http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f370/seight311/underhood.jpg[/image]
This is where the grommet is located if you look under your hood. This picture was taken from the suspension tower on the driver’s side of the vehicle.



How do I wire my subwoofers correctly?
Here’s a link that will tell you exactly how to wire your subwoofers correctly, and to achieve your desired impedance. Simply open the page, click whether you have Single Voice Coil or Dual Voice Coil subwoofers and it will show you how to wire them with up to 6 subwoofers.
Subwoofer Diagrams



What is the model number for a battery that will fit in my Mustang?
[image]http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f370/seight311/pc1200.jpg[/image]
Odyssey Batteries PC1200
[image]http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f370/seight311/sp1000.jpg[/image]
Stinger Electronics SP1000

[image]http://stingerelectronics.com/prodimages/SPV44.jpg[/image]

Stinger Electronics SPV 44
[image]http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f370/seight311/nsb75.jpg[/image]
Northstar NSB75
[image]http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f370/seight311/hc800.jpg[/image]
Kinetik Audio HC800
[image]http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f370/seight311/3478DT.jpg[/image]
Optima 34/


I want better SQ and SPL, I need a Capacitor right?


After studying a little history on large 1 Farad capacitors in car audio, you'd be amazed that they even sell at all. How useful are they? What do they really do? Will a Cap 'improve' my sound quality? Will it Prevent my lights from dimming? Will it audibly affect my audio system in any way?

Before you get the truth to any of the above questions, chances are, you've probably spent $100 or more on one of these devices. However, let's study a little history regarding this issue.

A long time ago, in a land far away, 2 elves...Ok, Richard Clark & Wayne Harris (Carsound magazine and the inventor of DB Drag, respectively) separately came up with a solution to preventing their lights from dimming.

WHO WERE THESE GUYZ?

As you may know, Richard Clark is one of the founders of autosound2000 Tech Briefs, Carsound magazine, and a published author of the industry of mobile electronics. In SQ competitions, he posted a record of 1234 1st place finishes, and only ended up NOT 1st in his first event. I've heard that he had minor system problems, but judging by his record, he must have corrected it. (evidently, he needed a Capacitor )

Wayne Harris was previously a leader at Rockford Fosgate in their development. Later, in his free time, he created the organization we call DB DRAG. Wayne was the first SQ World Champion from the organization we know as IASCA (International AutoSound Challenge Association).

Both of these gurus are both legends, and considered the leading experts in the field. During their competition days, both guyz came up with a way to assist in the prevention of voltage drops. In SQ competitions, the look of your system is actually more important than the sound, and having your lights NOT dim under high playing levels is a competitive advantage.

As you may know, an amplifiers is made up a battery of little capacitors, resistors, etc. What has been common engineering knowledge is that capacitors store energy, and more or bigger ones assist in balancing the power supply.

Wayne came up with the idea of putting several dozen 'little' (approx 100uF) capacitors on a circuit board to 'extend' the power supplies storage. At about the same time, or shortly afterward, Richard came up with the idea of one huge mondo capacitor (I believe it was 800,000uF or 0.8F) to do the job.

Eventually, Richard won. The large cylindrical tubes won over the complicated 48 caps strapped to a circuit board. However, what did this really accomplish? Let's start here:

WHAT IS A CAPACITOR?

Basically, capacitors are an energy storage device. Large, 1 Farad or more
capacitors store energy (electrons) between their plates. Capacitors differ
from batteries because batteries store energy in the form of chemical
energy--and rely on acid as the place of storage. For a more detailed
description of a capacitor, go here:

www.eatel.net/~amptech/el...raudio.htm

Then on the right hand side, scroll down to CAPACITOR. Keep in mind the use
of capacitors in an audio system.

WHY DO PEOPLE BUY CAPACITORS?

The number 1 reason would have to be because their lights dim when their
system is playing HARD. In car audio, we are told that a capacitor is
designed to prevent the voltage drop associated with your lights dimming.
The number2 reason is that it is rumored to 'improve' sound quality or
'stiffen' the power supply/source.

WHY DO MY LIGHTS DIM?

Headlights brightness is in direct proportion to the source voltage. For
instance, if your car is running, system voltage is ~12.5 -14.4 VOLTS. Your
lights will be much brighter than when your car is turned off--where battery
voltage is ~12V. Most car alternators put out between 75 to 120 amps of
current. When this current draw threshold of the charging system is
exceeded, system voltage will drop as power demands are now shared by the
alternator and the storage devices (battery & cap). We are using battery
reserves beyond this point until the demand lessens

When playing your system really hard. Your lights dim because your
alternator can't keep up it's charging voltage (around 13.8V) and therefore,
demand exceeds output. When this happens, your electronic devices are
dipping into the power storage of the battery. Since the battery stores
power at ~ 12-12.5V, there is a 1.3 to 1.8V drop in voltage available. This
in turn is why your lights dim dow


seight311 -> RE: Information (2/20/2007 7:34:08 PM)

P.S. we need to delete some of the clutter on here and just have the facts posted. Like the D-Bag that decided to ask a question in this thread, get the junk out!


Hisss04Cobra -> RE: Information (2/21/2007 6:53:41 PM)

Ah, let 'em ask questions. It will help stop the intelligent people who come in here from asking the same question.


mustangman02232 -> RE: Information (2/26/2007 9:28:08 PM)

link for reading on caps
http://3.8mustang.com/forum/showthread.php?t=176417


cam2904 -> RE: Information (2/26/2007 10:24:23 PM)

I have to agree with this sticky it helps out alot and get rid of alot of questions.


Hisss04Cobra -> RE: Information (3/1/2007 12:10:01 AM)

Hisss baby. Why do my subs make a "Popping" Noise when I turn off my car?

This kind of problem is often caused by transients in the signal processor as it powers down finding their way into the signal path, which the amplifier then transmits to the speakers.

Most of the time this problem will be easily solved by adding a little turn-off delay to the processor. This allows the processor to stay on for a short time after the amps have shut down, therefore preventing the pop sound you hear.

Many comps and equalizers that are sold today have built in delays. Use this to your advantage.





HISSSSS$$$$$$ what's a line driver?


Well, a line driver is a device that amplifies a signal, like a low-level signal output from a cd player. Line drivers are always made to amplify the line level signal to as much as ten volts. This is useless UNLESS the receiving end can handle ten volts as input.

To solve this problem, there are line receivers which bring the line level voltage down from ten volts or more to around one volt. Most of the time the line driver and receiver are placed as close to the sending signal source and destination as possible, to minimize noise pick up.









  

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