VSOP you need to do some research on the methanol injection kits. They have multiple reduntant safety features available. As far as running out of fluid, you can use pure water if you want - methanol just works better. On a supercharger putting out 6-7lbs of boost it's really not an issue anyway. I also disagree with your theory of cent's hitting rods harder than a roots/screw type. With a positive displacement blower you are in the boost practicaly all of the time. You are right though - you don't need a blower to run 12's however I would much rather spend $3000 on ONE upgrade and have 400 horsepower than $3000 on a BUNCH of upgrades for the same result. You have to accept the Powerdyne for what it is.
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06' GT - NASA SoCal #82 TTB
Thanks to Wild Pony Motorsports, Ross Murray, and KW Suspension
3rd place (x2) - California Speedway 3/08 1st place - Buttonwillow Raceway 4/08
I have seen engines blow from Meth injection kits failing. And even the guys that run them will tell you you not to use them to the point that if it fails your engine is on the ragged edge.
And its a proven fact that the Centf S/Cer are harder on the rods.. You realize its at the high rpms that thr rods twist and fail.. That is why they will hit at a high rpm and when the rod twists the engine goes BOOM
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07 Vista Blue GT/CS Black/Dove 5 speed manual C&L Racer,VMPTuning, Zoomers A/B,CMCV DP's,UDP,ARH LTs & O/R Xpipe, BMR, KW
oh I see - so we all ran vortech's, powerdyne's, and paxton's for years on our 5 liters without problems and it's something new? Please forgive me and the rest of the mustang world for being so foolish. Like I said - read up on them. If installed properly with the proper accesories you will never reach that point. The bigger point is we are talking about installing them on blower kits that do not require it in the first place. We are talking about using it to improve performance and further protect the engine. They are not mandatory.
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06' GT - NASA SoCal #82 TTB
Thanks to Wild Pony Motorsports, Ross Murray, and KW Suspension
3rd place (x2) - California Speedway 3/08 1st place - Buttonwillow Raceway 4/08
ORIGINAL: vsop And its a proven fact that the Centf S/Cer are harder on the rods.. You realize its at the high rpms that thr rods twist and fail.. That is why they will hit at a high rpm and when the rod twists the engine goes BOOM
Engines go "BOOM" because of detonation. I'm sure you know that while the noncentrifugal blower typically builds boost early and maintains it as rpm increases, a centrifugal blower typically builds boost exponentially. This means that as the blower's rotational rpm increases, the boost increases at a quicker rate. Key advantages of the boost increasing at higher engine speed are that there are fewer traction and detonation problems.
What is better for an engine, constant 8PSI from a noncentrifugal blower (even while daily driving to work) or less boost at a cruising RPM, and only building up to 8PSI when you really need it?
I'm not sure where you are getting your "proven facts", but I would like to see them.
~Fred
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2005 Mineral Gray GT Automatic - Powerdyne S/C @ 8PSI
STATUS: Finally Back...Took 2 Months....But its back....
Maybe you guys should do some research on the 05+ 3v engine.. the rods are powdered cast.. They are the weak point and are what fail at high rpm when they twist.. It has nothing to do with 5.0's or any other engine.. it has to do with our rods...
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07 Vista Blue GT/CS Black/Dove 5 speed manual C&L Racer,VMPTuning, Zoomers A/B,CMCV DP's,UDP,ARH LTs & O/R Xpipe, BMR, KW
Maybe you guys should do some research on the 05+ 3v engine.. the rods are powdered cast.. They are the weak point and are what fail at high rpm when they twist.. It has nothing to do with 5.0's or any other engine.. it has to do with our rods...
Do you understand at all what you are saying??? You are saying that our rods are built to fail at say 6200 RPM. If its a centrifigual or noncentrifigual blow, it makes NO difference, 8 PSI at 6200RPM from a KB is putting the same pressure on the rods as 8 PSI at 6200RPM from a Powerdyne.
~Fred
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2005 Mineral Gray GT Automatic - Powerdyne S/C @ 8PSI
STATUS: Finally Back...Took 2 Months....But its back....
well you may not need a S/C to run in the 12s... but how do you get to 12.00 without a power add.... as far as blowing your motor due to your rods twisting - I'm not a engine expert, however If you know your car then you adjust your driving to suit. My GT is a toy for me and I'm not not going to beat it into the ground. I'll talk to my tuner about how much boost he's going put in. But at 8psi or so and not leaning it out above 5500rpm I should be fine if I take to 6000 every now and again. Droping her off Sat am for the fun to start!!
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Tngstn 06GT-5 spd -Vortech HO S/C-Tuned by Realspeed Auto You can never have too much power, just not enough traction. 12.33 @ 112.3 - 1.71 60"
ORIGINAL: vsop What is better for an engine, constant 8PSI from a noncentrifugal blower (even while daily driving to work) or less boost at a cruising RPM, and only building up to 8PSI when you really need it?
~Fred
When daily driving a twin screw type S/C the boost is not constant, unless you want it to be. My car is a daily driver and runs on vacum 95 % of the time. You can drive all day long and never see boost if you don't want to. I will agree that detonation is the key factor and should be avoided at all cost. I got some bad fuel last week and it would ping badly on the top end. I just didn't let the boost kick in until a I ran that crap out a couple days later and filled up with better fuel.
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'06 GT 5 speed manual - Saleen S/C with 3.2 pulley 10+ lbs. of perma grin - GT500 fuel pumps - JDM mass air - Kooks headers with catted x pipe - Extra light wallet
ORIGINAL: Haulupki When daily driving a twin screw type S/C the boost is not constant, unless you want it to be. My car is a daily driver and runs on vacum 95 % of the time. You can drive all day long and never see boost if you don't want to.
You said that backwards. With a twin screw, the boost IS constant, unless you don't want it to be. You can add a vaccum, but most (if any) don't come with them.
~Fred
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2005 Mineral Gray GT Automatic - Powerdyne S/C @ 8PSI
STATUS: Finally Back...Took 2 Months....But its back....
that means it is a very nice , well built blower..............that costs 6000 dollars
The cost depends on where you get it from. I know of at least one place that is offering it for just a little over $4000 in a group buy. That's still expensive compared to some other setups, but as you mentioned, it's a very nice, well built blower.
I'm fairly informed on the Saleen SC, and will probably go with their setup when I'm ready. What I'm more interested in is how does the boost bypass of the Saleen compare with the vacuum setup talked about above. Does it work the same, or different. What SC is being talked about with a vacuum setup, etc...?
I want to get decent power (400+ RWHP) while keeping the engine and transmission as safe as possible. I think the Saleen is a good option for this since the boost level is low by default, and it has the bypass for low pressure situations where the boost is not needed.
Sorry for the hijack.
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06 GT Vert Black on Red, Automatic C&L w/ Brenspeed 93 Tune GT-H mufflers 269 RWHP, 293 RWTQ
Funny Video Stop - We find the funniest videos so you don't have to!
Excatly the boost is not constant on Twin screw S/C's. Or I should say not mine(not sure about all the others). My Vac/boost gauge doesn't go into the bonus area until I ask for it. The Saleen S/C has a vacum actuated butterfly valve that is open when @ idle or when you are just cruising along. This lets the air pressure on both sides of the screws be the same or no boost. By letting or releasing the charged air back around and into the screws again. But when you need or want boost, this butterfly valve closes off and the air can not escape which creates pressure after the screws and the only place for the air to go is through the intake valves. Then it gets fun!!!!!!!
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'06 GT 5 speed manual - Saleen S/C with 3.2 pulley 10+ lbs. of perma grin - GT500 fuel pumps - JDM mass air - Kooks headers with catted x pipe - Extra light wallet
They sell just the blower for $5130, but I know you can get it cheaper than that during a group buy on this forum when it's offered.
quote:
ORIGINAL: RodeoFlyer
that means it is a very nice , well built blower..............that costs 6000 dollars
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whipple HO SC,FRPP springs, Pypes mid mufflers, Che adj. LCA, hurst, 4.10's, 1 piece DS, spec stg 2 clutch. Accel coils 12.52@117.6mph so far with a 2.01 60 ft time(pre shaft, coils, clutch).
Excatly the boost is not constant on Twin screw S/C's. Or I should say not mine(not sure about all the others). My Vac/boost gauge doesn't go into the bonus area until I ask for it. The Saleen S/C has a vacum actuated butterfly valve that is open when @ idle or when you are just cruising along. This lets the air pressure on both sides of the screws be the same or no boost. By letting or releasing the charged air back around and into the screws again. But when you need or want boost, this butterfly valve closes off and the air can not escape which creates pressure after the screws and the only place for the air to go is through the intake valves. Then it gets fun!!!!!!!
Haulupki,
Thanks for the further details. That's exactly what I was looking for.
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06 GT Vert Black on Red, Automatic C&L w/ Brenspeed 93 Tune GT-H mufflers 269 RWHP, 293 RWTQ
Funny Video Stop - We find the funniest videos so you don't have to!
The boost is not constant on any S/C is my understanding. since they are all belt driven the boost will build with RPM. Twin Screws have a bit more at the low end then Centrifugial types. from my research the Vortech makes much more power about 3000 RPM on the 4.6 motor than the twin screw or roots types.
So maybe we are saying the same thing just from different viewpoints.
Wish me luck... dropping my baby off in about 2 hours for her mods!!!
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Tngstn 06GT-5 spd -Vortech HO S/C-Tuned by Realspeed Auto You can never have too much power, just not enough traction. 12.33 @ 112.3 - 1.71 60"
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