Hi all, freshman at this So any advise welcome. have just got a 1978 II Mustang it needs some body touch up but not to bad. Has not run for past 7 to 10 Yrs so usure how to procede. Is it better to strip engine etc down and clean up from there. Suggestions are very welcome. Have re-posted this as advised to go to Clasic section. Will post Pic when I get myself organised. !!
Lets start there. Even if it has not run in 10 years - that does not mean it won't run with a little work. Remember, the best part of owining an older car is driving it. You could get this motor running good enough for you to do the rest of the work needed and still have fun along the way.
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Not tried turning motor over by hand have just put it in the garage. PO has dismantled all the trim and dash. He said he started the engine once a year !! no battery in it yet, but dont think I want to try and turn engine over plus PO said he couldn't get it to start eventually ...and Carb looks dry and probably full of gunk.
We also have a Mustang II sub-section on the Classic section. At any rate take the spark plugs out and squirt some oil on top of the pistons, then use a 1/2" breaker bar and try to turn the crank over to see if the piston rings are frozen or not. If they aren't then you have a good chance of getting the engine running without tearing it down. Get back if you can turn it over for further advice.
Not tried turning motor over by hand have just put it in the garage. PO has dismantled all the trim and dash. He said he started the engine once a year !! no battery in it yet, but dont think I want to try and turn engine over plus PO said he couldn't get it to start eventually ...and Carb looks dry and probably full of gunk.
If you can get this motor running w/out having to tear it down, you're well on your way to repairing what the PO started.
As soaring said. squirt some lubricant down the plug holes and let it sit over night. Give it a tug the next day and see if it'll turn. If it does, there's a very good chance that it'll run with a minimal work. Even if you have to get a new carb, that's a whole lot cheaper than pulling the motor down and that money can go into the dash, etc. All the while, you're driving it and having fun.
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Force and Minds are oppisites; morality ends where the gun begins.
Team MF Member #068 Posts: 994
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Before you try to start it if you find that you can turn it by hand. Change the oil and put in fresh gas, then you can try to start. I would asume that the hard starting will be frm the carb pluged up with old, bad gas. May have to rebuild carb before you can go too much farther...
try what soaring said if it spins freely then you just need fuel and spark new splugs and wires rebuild the carb or replace it dont forget to clean out the gas tank drain and replace all fuilds gas oil coolant etc etc start and pray
< Message edited by andrewmp6 -- 1/9/2007 10:27:39 AM >
Hi guys, and thanks for all the help so far it's great. Put oil in heads and managed to turn it over tonight 'sticky' at first but then turned ok with 1/2 breaker. It has a 2.8L B with auto tranny, hatchback, Brushed aluminium dash and 110mph/180kmh speedo(shift selector very stiff? could be the cold). Took a closer look at engine thinks it is in need of some TLC as pretty rusty and carb is missing filter cover. Cleaned out the interior of trim panels etc that was pilled in the back, so naked inside. Cant work to long out in the garage as frigin freezing , but i'am hooked . tried my dig camera ..batteries dud huh!!.....next step...remove carb?
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Joined: 1/1/2007 From: BC Canada Status: offline
Welcome aboard.
I'm a relative newbie around here too, but not so much a newbie to the II. Kinda funny, though...I just picked up a 78 V6 auto that hasn't run in a few years, too! Mine's a coupe, though. I had to replace the battery, the battery cables, the clamps, the gas, and the carb. Then it fired up and smoked like bleached drag slicks for almost a 1/2 hour. Other than adjusting the choke, it purrs like a kitten now.
One thing to remember when you fire it up. The 2.8 doesn't have hydraulic lifters. The valves should be set manually (and often aren't), so it may have a very "tappy" sound to it when it fires up. As long as it runs and sounds relatively good otherwise the tapping of the valves is not an immediate issue (just a basic maintenance issue)
Whereabouts in Ontario are ya? I know of several II owners scattered through eastern (and western) Canada
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78 T-top 77 Cobra 78 coupe (for sale:cheap) 78 Ghia (also for sale:good resto-project) 94 Crown Vic P71
Hi and thanks, I'am in North western Ontario...in the boonies and cold ...that makes it frustrating to work on the car. Think I will pull the carb out, and check the intake at the same time, that way it gives me something to work on and not in the cold. Need to get myself a Manual somewhere, any idea of a good source other than the normal Haynes/Chilton.
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Joined: 1/1/2007 From: BC Canada Status: offline
I have the Haynes, Chilton's, Clymer, and the more generalized Chilton's 72-79 auto repair hardcover. Between those, my relevent Bronco II/Ranger books, the net, and a bit of redneckology mixed with luck....I get by :D
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78 T-top 77 Cobra 78 coupe (for sale:cheap) 78 Ghia (also for sale:good resto-project) 94 Crown Vic P71
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why dont you go ahead and try to start this thing before you start ripping things apart. hell you may just get lucky, or at least have a better idea of where your at.
course if your gonna play with a carb you can always grab one of these:
Posts: 40
Joined: 1/1/2007 From: BC Canada Status: offline
quote:
ORIGINAL: my77stang
why dont you go ahead and try to start this thing before you start ripping things apart. hell you may just get lucky, or at least have a better idea of where your at.
course if your gonna play with a carb you can always grab one of these:
In my own case....Been there, done that (but with a 400 CFM Carter), still got it, throwing it into the 78 T-top as a power UPGRADE from the stock 302.
That's one of the reasons I want to put a Rad or T5 bellhousing onto a Toyo/Kogyo 5-speed. I ran one behind this little 200 hp 2.8 in a 4x4 Bronco II, so I know it'll be reliable...
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78 T-top 77 Cobra 78 coupe (for sale:cheap) 78 Ghia (also for sale:good resto-project) 94 Crown Vic P71
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Joined: 1/1/2007 From: BC Canada Status: offline
Still got some of the V8 parts, but the car hasn't had a drivetrain in it for close to 15 years.
I have this nice little 200 hp 2.8 with a 7400 RPM redline and its somewhere around 150 lbs less weight than a 302. It seemed to make slightly over stock torque at idle, but was fully capable of pulling wheelies in a Bronco II running 32" tires, locked 4.10 gears, a 2.48:1 reduction transfer case, etc...
Oh, and it was not only smogged as an 84 stock 2.8, but got well over 15 MPG around town as a daily driver....which is a bit of a bonus when local gas prices are sitting at over $1/liter for 87 octane.
Besides, the only 302 I have is sitting under the hood of my 77 Cobra II
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78 T-top 77 Cobra 78 coupe (for sale:cheap) 78 Ghia (also for sale:good resto-project) 94 Crown Vic P71
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Joined: 1/1/2007 From: BC Canada Status: offline
Unfortunately, the shroud was gone when I bought the car many years ago, and I think the rad ended up as scrap. I'm pretty sure I still have the engine mounts, but they're in a crate of misc. mounts and I don't know which are which. I know I DO have the stock exhaust manifolds, Y-pipe, etc. and the V8 frame brackets are still in the engine compartment if anyone needs them. I also have assorted II parts that have accumulated over the years...
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78 T-top 77 Cobra 78 coupe (for sale:cheap) 78 Ghia (also for sale:good resto-project) 94 Crown Vic P71
Printable Version
78 Mustang II - 
So any advise welcome. have just got a 1978 II 
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RE: 78 Mustang II - 