I have a 69 coupe 6 cyl straight, I want to do an engine swat and convert it to a V8. Now I know in order to do it, I have to do all of my upgrades like brake suspension etc. But my delimma is, which engine do I put in? 302 or 351 windsor? I also am trying to convert from stick shift to automatic transmission. I am trying to get from 350 to 400 hp, so I just need to know, which engine will be easier to work with 302 or 351 windsor to get it up to 400 hp? Which year engine block and transmission do I look for, so it will fit with the minimum amount of modifications? If someone could make me a list of things I need to do to achieve this, like part numbers etc, it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, zack
dude, check out the faq section it'll give you a lot of info
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14 inch rusted Keystones, tired leaking 302, poorly applied custom landau top, wally world special audio system. It could always be worse, it could be a yugo!
i was talking about the conversion factor, new front, new rear, etc etc, as far as horsies, well, I'd bet it would be easier to get a 351 to 400 HP but a 302 will do it as well. Thinking about any power adders? Stick to auto should be easy and C4s are everywhere, most parts houses and mustang stores have competition C4s
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14 inch rusted Keystones, tired leaking 302, poorly applied custom landau top, wally world special audio system. It could always be worse, it could be a yugo!
I have a 69 coupe 6 cyl straight, I want to do an engine swat and convert it to a V8. Now I know in order to do it, I have to do all of my upgrades like brake suspension etc. 1. But my delimma is, which engine do I put in? 302 or 351 windsor? http://www.fordcobraengines.com/347_400Horsepower.htm http://www.fordcobraengines.com/351_425Carb.htm I just put these up to show you it's possible with both, i'm sure with the power of the internet you can find cheaper options I'm guessing you're planning on racing...
3.I am trying to get from 350 to 400 hp, so I just need to know, which engine will be easier to work with 302 or 351 windsor to get it up to 400 hp? Which year engine block and transmission do I look for, so it will fit with the minimum amount of modifications? If someone could make me a list of things I need to do to achieve this, like part numbers etc, it would be greatly appreciated. As far as parts it really all depends on what exactaly you want to do.. Hope that helped or at least answered one of your questions.
< Message edited by grruminator78 -- 1/3/2007 5:32:44 PM >
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14 inch rusted Keystones, tired leaking 302, poorly applied custom landau top, wally world special audio system. It could always be worse, it could be a yugo!
now that I can't tell you I'm sure it's all a matter of opinion
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14 inch rusted Keystones, tired leaking 302, poorly applied custom landau top, wally world special audio system. It could always be worse, it could be a yugo!
long time no see zack, last time i saw you on here you were trying to go for 300 HP, i too at the time was the same, but now im up there shooting for 400.
your best bet is to buy a crate engine, or buy a longblock and build it to your liking, either way good luck and keep us posted
-atom
PS, you finish body work yet? im a slug with it, im opting for new doors and a fender so i dont have to patch it, i will keep the original doors and fender though
The 351w Engine Block - 69-70 - High Nickel content and thicker main webs (These are the only Production Ford 9.480" Deck Height 351w blocks) 71-74 - Reduced Nickel content thinner main webs (71-up had 9.503" Deck Height) 75-91 - Reduced main web thickness 92-On - Lifter Bores were lengthened to accept roller lifters
There were some 351w Mexican blocks as well. The early versions of which are desirable due to their beefier castings and higher nickel contents. A Mexican block can be identified by the useless looking knobs cast into the block on either side of the timing cover, and an “Hencho en Mexico” cast into the lifter valley. Mexican blocks were supposedly used on some US vehicles, but they are a fairly rare find.
The swap is relatively easy. Most would suggest that you upgrade to disk brakes and heavier front springs just for the added weight and consistant stopping power. The C4 is a pretty good auto trans that will hold up to 400HP if properly set-up and many shops can do that. An AOD swap is possible but a little more complicated and reliabilty of the AOD with 400HP would be less. The 8" rear is commonly available and most likely strong enough but a 9" rear would be bulletproof. The engine is a matter of opinion, a late model 5.0 (302) will feel pretty good. 400 hp is really more than you need unless your racing it. A mild 302 with something like comp cams 268H and a Torker II intake and a Holley street avenger carb with pertronix ignition would be a good inexpensive way to go. You'll probably want to go with a later model engine just because of the hardened valves and seats for unleaded gas. Later (post 70's) Fords had low compression and large combustion chambers until you get to the 82 and up 5.0 engines. 351 Windsors had bigger valves pre 70's but later ones used 302 heads. Low compression hurts HP so you will want to change pistons and you most likely will rebuild the engine anyway unless you find a low mileage doner. My suggestion would be to find a cheap doner car like a torino, grenada, maverik or even a rusted beyond repair mustang to get most of your little parts like motor mounts, PS brakets, etc. but places like Mustangs Plus can fix you up with everything you need. Don't forget to upgrade the radiator too. It all just depends on your budget.
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69 coupe question-please help - 
14 inch rusted Keystones, tired leaking 302, poorly applied custom landau top, wally world special audio system. It could always be worse, it could be a yugo! 
