The last Mustang mag I was looking at showed MAACO paint job, and apparently they are now trying to get in the "non-collision repair" sector by offering better services.
I'm just going to do what most ricers do, buy a bunch of fiberglass and not bother getting it painted, and if it fits poorly I'll just have to use some double sided tape, and body colored duct tape.
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14 inch rusted Keystones, tired leaking 302, poorly applied custom landau top, wally world special audio system. It could always be worse, it could be a yugo!
man, that looks awesome, might try that on my car. i wonder if you have to strip off old paint first?
tremclad=rustoleum
I don't think they are the same formulation of paint. The colors are certainly different. I sent an e-mail to the company to ask; I'll post their response.
Well, I read a lot of the pages from that original forum, and they were saying that although Rusteloum owns tremclad, they have slight different chemical compounds.
Tremclad thins nicely with mineral spirits, and rusteloum thins better with acetone.
Here's what you need for that type of paint scheme:
Wet sand with different grits as you go along, 400, 600, 800, 1000, and finish it off with 2000 grit.
...and I copy and pasted the process:
Body prep
next prep your car as if was any other paint job, fix all the rust, ect.... no need to prime the car since the tremclad allready contains elements which allow it to be painted over bare metal.
mixing paint
next u thin the paint with mineral spirits so it just about as thin as water, a little thicker. theres no ratio that i could come up with because once you open the can and pour some out the next day the paint will be a bit thicker. if i had to guess i would say about 20% thinner or so? just thin enough that it does'nt run, but not too thick. keep in mind that you can allways add more paint to the mix if you go too thin. and the coats go on really really thin, that is the key, like i said before you don't really have a true non transparent base until the 3rd or 4th coat.
Painting I also load the roller up quite heavily, then work it until the roller does'nt have so much paint in it and do the detail work after. once you spread the paint wait a minute or so and then just really gently run the roller using only the weight of the roller, on the sides just use very very light pressure as if it were the weight of it. How you thin the paint is critical, i have not had one paint run on any of the cars i've painted. To give you an idea, you really only start to have full coverage to where u can't see any body work or underlying color thru the paint until the 3rd coat after u do 2 coats, wet sand the whole car, then repeat, 2 coats, wetsand, 2 coats wetsand The trick is in how you thin the paint, get it as thin as possible without running, and the paint "self levels" it comes out like glass, wet sanding just makes it better,' when the paint is thinned your barley putting on any paint with each coat, so you really need to do about 6 coats to get enough of a base so you can wet sand and polish You only cover up the bodywork, underlying color until after the 4th coat, keep in mind that there is wet sanding in between each 2 coats. if you get bubbles when your painting your pushing down on the roller too hard, lighten it up a bit, let the paint sit for 1 minute after you've spread it out nice, then just run the roller over the area VERY gently using only the weight of the roller, then turn around, have a smoke after you've done the pannel, and when your done your smoke, turn around and you'll see it has "self leveled" before your eyes
Painting Hard to get areas
do the hood, doors, front fenders, and the trunk, that's easy. then i do the whole roof and sail pannels in one shot working fast, there's enough time to do it before the paint tacks up if u rush it, not the time to have a coffee or smoke. i stopped at the rear quarter just below the sail pannels and top quarter pannel where there is a edge to stop at. then continue from there on each side meeting in the back rear valance. the trick there is to not leave and raised paint lines, and smooth it out gradually as u approach the point where u stop, then run to the other side and do the other half of the roof and overlap the strokes. wetsanding does the rest, but u try to make it as smooth as possible, the paint is very thin on each coat. it's really hard to describe, that's where all the expirementing comes in to play.
Sanding
do one panel at a time, and don't stop once you start. once your done the final coat, wetsand with about 1000 grit to a totally smooth finish, and then using a high speed polisher i use a buffing bonnet and turtle wax polishing compound. do the whole car with this, and i'm telling u, depending on the amount of time and paitence you have, the results are amazing use a spray bottle and keep the paper really wet, finish with a 1000 grit or so and then buff with a random orbit polisher using turtle wax POLISHING compound, NOT the rubbing compound, its' to harsh. it is critical to use the proper roller, it's about 4" wide and about 1 1/2" thick, and really high density white foam. it really works and is much tougher paint than todays single stage or base clear, very hard to scratch did not block sand the car just wetsand progressivly finer paper by HAND, no machine, no block nothing. using any "block" to sand i found the paper got dirty fast and got all plugged up, so do it by hand and keep it really wet, using a spray bottle in one hand and a clean bucket of water and a shammy (dollar store!!!)to clean it off to see how it looks. i prepped the car with 80, then 100, then 200, finished with a 400, did all my body work, and painted. after 2 coats (about 4hrs work for the whole car) i wetsanded with a 600, then did 2 more coats, wetsand with 800, 2 more coats and sand with a 1000-1500 and polish, followed by wax, done...... one more pointer, when u wet sand the final coat, the paint looks flat, like velvet, if you take a rag soaked with mineral spirits and whipe a spot down that you just sanded, that's what it will look like buffed. if you buff and decide to paint again clean the area with mineral spirts so that and residue from the polishing compound is removed or the paint won't stick. do another coat, try to put it on really light, i hope u prepped the fender a little before you started painting. when u wet sand try using a 600-800 grit, and lightly wet sand the fender with light pressure and ALOT of water. Spraying it on should maybe work better but its messy, stinky, and a pain. when u first start to wet sand you'll notice the paper just kinda glides over the paint and it does'nt really feel like your sanding anything, keep going, soon the water will stop beeding off the paint and it will start to turn yellow. after wetsanding it looks like crap, this is where the polishing come in, brings it to glass. i haven't tried soap and water, i see no real advantage, i just use straight water and keep the area really wet, using a spray bottle and spray it down alot, after wetsanding for a bit i have a bucket of water and a shammy i whipe down the surface with while it's still wet, that way it's much eaiser to clean before it dries. and as for the mineral spirits on a wet rag and just whiping it down, yes, that's what it looks like polished, even better, just gives you an idea of what it will look like when finished, that's about the first time you really see the results.
buffing polishing compound, not rubbing compound the rubbing compound could be used if you really want to, i just found it much better to wetsand with 1000 grit and then go straight to polishing, that's what worked for me. the rubbing compound seemed to ball up under the polisher and make a mess and make some scratches when it balled up, i used the polishing compound on a regular bonnet on a 10" elecrtic random orbit polisher, it's only after polishing that it looks like glass, and i kept it wet with water from a spray bottle on the bonnet, forgot to mention that, but keeping it quite wet worked great.
ORIGINAL: Galactusz I myself am exrtemely curious, going to get all these things together, and paint an old scrapped car hood I have in my backyard.
Yeah, I am very interested in seeing how good you can make this look. This whole thing sounds like an infomercial you'd see on TV at 4 a.m.... "Just open the paint, thin as needed, and roll... roll... roll your car to a fantastic showroom finish! ".
ORIGINAL: Galactusz I myself am exrtemely curious, going to get all these things together, and paint an old scrapped car hood I have in my backyard.
Yeah, I am very interested in seeing how good you can make this look. This whole thing sounds like an infomercial you'd see on TV at 4 a.m.... "Just open the paint, thin as needed, and roll... roll... roll your car to a fantastic showroom finish! ".
And how much are you willing to pay? An average paint job will cost 5000 dollars, but act now and you'll get the paint, and we'll throw in rollers for life for just 19.95 plus shipping and handling. Sorry no CODs!
Galactusz, man you are one in depth dude!
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14 inch rusted Keystones, tired leaking 302, poorly applied custom landau top, wally world special audio system. It could always be worse, it could be a yugo!
I did my first coat. It was way to thick and I should have used a clean rag to wipe the dust off. I just wiped the first coat off and will try it again today. Patience is a virtue. do not go fast.
< Message edited by tylerdru -- 11/3/2006 10:28:52 AM >
tyler good on you for posting that pic, I wouldn't even have admitted to it, but I'm a lowly coward, keep us informed, I just might have the brass to do it myself depending on how it turns out.
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14 inch rusted Keystones, tired leaking 302, poorly applied custom landau top, wally world special audio system. It could always be worse, it could be a yugo!
We've secretly painted this classic mustang with a roller. Can an MCA-qualified judge tell the difference? Let's find out.
Thanks for posting that, great laugh. Seriously, you should get some tack rags to clean off any dirt / dust between coats. I think they cost like a quarter apiece at hardware stores, great for removing any lint etc. prior to any kind of painting.
tylerdru, according to the dudes on that other forum, you are supposed to thin the paint as much as possible, to an almost watery consistency, the key is to keep painting, sanding, painting, sanding, painting, etc, time after time, coat vey thinly, and just keep doing that. Oh, and do not shake the paint, it will cause to bubble up on you, just stir it. I hear the ratio is 20% mineral spirits, and 80% tremclad.
Nice for you to provide pictures, I have not bought the items yet.
< Message edited by Galactusz -- 11/3/2006 3:43:54 PM >
Posts: 6857
Joined: 10/10/2005 From: brunstank ga Status: offline
so much easier and less time consuming to just do a real paint job and probably cheaper? a gallon of single stage with activator goes for about 70$ as long as its not red,orange, yellow etc
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Then said he unto them, But now, he that hath a purse, let him take it, and likewise his scrip: and he that hath no sword, let him sell his garment, and buy one.
ORIGINAL: Galactusz I myself am exrtemely curious, going to get all these things together, and paint an old scrapped car hood I have in my backyard.
Yeah, I am very interested in seeing how good you can make this look. This whole thing sounds like an infomercial you'd see on TV at 4 a.m.... "Just open the paint, thin as needed, and roll... roll... roll your car to a fantastic showroom finish! ".
And how much are you willing to pay? An average paint job will cost 5000 dollars, but act now and you'll get the paint, and we'll throw in rollers for life for just 19.95 plus shipping and handling. Sorry no CODs!
Galactusz, man you are one in depth dude!
I'm just curious as hell, besides, I'm on disability, I have nothing but time.
Disability has the effect of giving you a bunch of time to do stuff like that.. Hence the 71 fastback ressurection... The limited cash involved also appeals to those of us who cant have jobs any longer.. :)
all i have to say is WOW it is almost like painting a room. any way hey glen you should put that web site in the FAQ's i sure some one is going to ask about it in the future.
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68 coup; 289, hooker super comp headers, Dr. gass X-pipe 3"-2.5" w/ spin tech mufflers and turn downs.
I got a reply back from the Rust-Oleum company. To summarize, Tremclad isn't the same as Rust-Oleum and you can only buy Tremclad in Canada. As far as compatibility between Tremclad and Rust-Oleum metal paints, they said, "The only paints that we have in our [Rust-Oleum] Consumer lines that are compatible with standard [Tremclad] auto paints are the auto primers."
So, the bottom line is there is no Tremclad-equivalent topcoat paint available in the US. Rust-Oleum topcoat paints recommend using primer on bare metal, Tremclad color topcoats say a primer isn't necessary.
Sorry to be a killjoy, but I'm just passing on what the company said.
< Message edited by drhink -- 11/6/2006 12:04:41 PM >
Good info there.. So with US paints we need a primer.. Still a cheap alternative. not a show stopping finish, but it would sure work better than rattle cans..lol..
I'd say for the roller method in the U.S., we need to find a suitable paint. My experience using Rust-Oleum's brushable metal topcoats (on outdoor furniture, etc) is they are VERY slow to dry. There's no way you could wet sand it after just 12 hours. It seems to stay "soft" for at least 24 hours. Must be the fish oil in it.
I know Krylon in the rattle can is very fast drying acrylic, and doesn't need a primer. The rattle can Krylon can be sanded after 1 hour. But I don't think you can get the Krylon acrylic in a brushable can. Krylon does have a brushable oil enamel for metal; I can't seem to find a lot details on their web site other than it says you don't need a primer, so I'll have to go read the back of the can at the hardware store to see what the drying time is.
Basically, I think we in the U.S. just need to identify a good, tough, fast drying brushable paint for metal that has good enough adhesion so a primer isn't necessary. The search is on...
Printable Version
RE: An option for cheap paint - 
14 inch rusted Keystones, tired leaking 302, poorly applied custom landau top, wally world special audio system. It could always be worse, it could be a yugo! 
".
and probably cheaper? a gallon of single stage with activator goes for about 70$ as long as its not red,orange, yellow etc
it is almost like painting a room. any way hey glen you should put that web site in the FAQ's i sure some one is going to ask about it in the future.
