Hey,

I was also at the track this weekend, and ran a 14.59 @ 94.0mph naturally aspirated. The temperature was only about 45 degrees and my car would not hook-up at all. I left the starting line around 2000rpm, when I should be leaving at 3000rpm. The car has really responded to the last couple mods, which I will post dyno numbers after this weekend (JBA ceramic headers - new addition). I am expecting no less than 220rwhp and 250rwtq, because the car has already put down 215rwhp and 244rwtq. The car should have run 14.30's @ 95.0 mph this weekend, but small tires and cold weather were my enemy.

I will be working on getting an aluminum driveshaft soon, with safety loop and wider rear tires. With a couple of tweaks, it should go 14.0's at 97.0mph. This will be my goal over the winter months coming up soon. That will then be the end of mods, while I save money for the Vortech Supercharger kit. I look forward to seeing everyone at the track next season, and maybe we may see 13.99 if I'm lucky. It's been a fun 2006, and hope to see everyone soon.

P.S. - I will be buying 20" rims soon, so I will be selling my 6 month old Falken Koblenz (black) rims 18 x 8's and BF Goodrich KDW2 255/45-18 tires. They are in really nice shape, only about 7000 miles on them. I have over $1500 invested, looking for $950 out of them. Anybody interested, can email me at smithars724@yahoo.com.

Thanks!

Nice Job. Once you hit that 14, you wont stop there though. It gets addicting. You'll be pushing for those 13's. Thats why im just saving up for a new engine :). (Possibly roush, or a v8 stock)

Very strong runs, I think you are right about 14.3's being in her with the right conditions.

Yeah if you hit 13.99 you will be the first one without F/I but I wouldn't get my hopes up the only way I see you doing this is losing a BUNCHHHHHH of weight then maybe you could get close, but I wouldn't strip my car.....also when you get the twenty's on your going to lose a lot of time at the track because 20,s are a lot heavier and it's more tire to have to turn I would keep the 18's and spend the money on some drag radials (just my opinion though) good luck whatever you decide. What mods do you have now "if you don't mind telling". Plus you can pm boss244 he has about every bolt on there is and when his going to the track he strips a lot out of his car even his radio comes out lol (the shaker is about 8 pounds), but anyways i believe the best time he has got was 14.4399 at 93 mph so once again don't get your hopes up, but good luck

PHP did it with weight reduction, all of the bolt ons, slicks and launching at very high RPM's. For an auto car to go this route, I think a higher stall will be needed. But it is doable.

if you hit 13.99 na i will kill myself

LoL skoal don't kill yourself, I would love to hit 13.99 without F/I, but at the same time I don't won't my car looking like the inside of the GTR neither http://www.fastcoolcars.com/images/wallpaper11/gtr_mustang_interior.jpg

ORIGINAL: Dats1NiceMustang

LoL skoal don't kill yourself, I would love to hit 13.99 without F/I, but at the same time I don't won't my car looking like the inside of the GTR neither http://www.fastcoolcars.com/images/wallpaper11/gtr_mustang_interior.jpg


I love the interior of the GTR. It looks good and I (think) it would be practical for racing as far as weight goes, without exposing everything.

ORIGINAL: 996r916sps

Hey,

I was also at the track this weekend, and ran a 14.59 @ 94.0mph naturally aspirated. The temperature was only about 45 degrees and my car would not hook-up at all. I left the starting line around 2000rpm, when I should be leaving at 3000rpm. The car has really responded to the last couple mods, which I will post dyno numbers after this weekend (JBA ceramic headers - new addition). I am expecting no less than 220rwhp and 250rwtq, because the car has already put down 215rwhp and 244rwtq. The car should have run 14.30's @ 95.0 mph this weekend, but small tires and cold weather were my enemy.

I will be working on getting an aluminum driveshaft soon, with safety loop and wider rear tires. With a couple of tweaks, it should go 14.0's at 97.0mph. This will be my goal over the winter months coming up soon. That will then be the end of mods, while I save money for the Vortech Supercharger kit. I look forward to seeing everyone at the track next season, and maybe we may see 13.99 if I'm lucky. It's been a fun 2006, and hope to see everyone soon.

P.S. - I will be buying 20" rims soon, so I will be selling my 6 month old Falken Koblenz (black) rims 18 x 8's and BF Goodrich KDW2 255/45-18 tires. They are in really nice shape, only about 7000 miles on them. I have over $1500 invested, looking for $950 out of them. Anybody interested, can email me at smithars724@yahoo.com.

Thanks!


You will run slower with the20" rims for sure. Go back to lighter smaller rims and your 1/4 mile run will improve for sure

What do you mean you "LOVE THE INTERIOR OF THE GTR" there isn't any interior

Great times....i would love to get 45 degree temps down here , but the coldest it gets is around 78 in december[&:]

ORIGINAL: 996r916sps

Hey,

I was also at the track this weekend, and ran a 14.59 @ 94.0mph naturally aspirated. The temperature was only about 45 degrees and my car would not hook-up at all. I left the starting line around 2000rpm, when I should be leaving at 3000rpm. The car has really responded to the last couple mods, which I will post dyno numbers after this weekend (JBA ceramic headers - new addition). I am expecting no less than 220rwhp and 250rwtq, because the car has already put down 215rwhp and 244rwtq. The car should have run 14.30's @ 95.0 mph this weekend, but small tires and cold weather were my enemy.

I will be working on getting an aluminum driveshaft soon, with safety loop and wider rear tires. With a couple of tweaks, it should go 14.0's at 97.0mph. This will be my goal over the winter months coming up soon. That will then be the end of mods, while I save money for the Vortech Supercharger kit. I look forward to seeing everyone at the track next season, and maybe we may see 13.99 if I'm lucky. It's been a fun 2006, and hope to see everyone soon.

P.S. - I will be buying 20" rims soon, so I will be selling my 6 month old Falken Koblenz (black) rims 18 x 8's and BF Goodrich KDW2 255/45-18 tires. They are in really nice shape, only about 7000 miles on them. I have over $1500 invested, looking for $950 out of them. Anybody interested, can email me at smithars724@yahoo.com.

Thanks!


Dude... it was great to finally meet you!!! You made some very strong runs... but as Chad pointed out the track just kept getting slicker and slicker... i went over to Mid-Michigan on Sunday... those guys do nice job of keeping the track pretty sticky! It was very consistent all day...

Keep up the good work!

Hey,

Thanks for the compliments!

I have a 2006 with a manual transmission, so rpm launchs are whatever the tires can hold. I got some ideas, and with the help of Lidio and Alternative Auto I think 13.99 can happen. I will not strip my car of anything! I race the car, like I drive the car. I drive to the track, and then pull up to the lights!

Paul's High Performance did a nice job, but it's a race car pure and simple. My car already makes more power than the N/A 13.99 of Paul's. He was able to lighten the car and run slicks. There is much more power in there, it's just not easy power like a turbo or blower. Many people have doubted I would get this far, but I think 230rwhp and 260rwtq is there with no power adders. I understand some people can't see the potential, but that's ok. I hope to maximize the N/A portion first, then move into boost. Don't get me wrong, I will not touch any motor internals to get this power.

The current issue is that there is no use adding more power until I can hook what I already have. I am moving from a 255 series tire to a 295 series tire, which will give me an additional 40mm or 1.5inches more on the ground. Since I am running the car pretty hard, it would also make sense to add some safety in the form of an aluminum driveshaft and loop.

After all the items are in place, I need to find another 10hp/10tq. I still think there is more power in the exhaust system, I am running JBA headers and a performance single muffler. I think a nice true dual system would free up a few hp/tq. I will be adding Royal Purple treatment to the anti-freeze to reduce surface tention and provide better lubrication for the pump. The final area of inspection will be the intake manifold and throttle body, I need to look at these pieces closer to see if there is any potential there.

A couple people have mentioned "The bolt-on King", which I have spoken to him via email and I am already further ahead right now. If you click on my user name, you can see all the posts I've made.

One thing to note! I drove 80 miles each way to/from the drag-strip on Saturday, made 16 full-on passes and still arrived home with an 20mpg average! I have also made all this power with 86/87 octane fuel, not premium gas of 91/94 octane fuel. I am also going to run 86/87 octane fuel with the Vortech down the road, but may have to step to premium towards the end.

I am always watching for performance solutions, like the ones listed above. We have not seen a real batch of 4.0L performance parts yet, like lightweight flywheels and things of that nature. When I find these solutions, I'll be sure to post them. One of my goals was to show people there is an alternative to the GT, that doesn't suck!

If you have any performance needs, contact Lidio at Alternative Auto. They can show you a safe alternative solution. Oh ya, I almost forgot. Somebody mentioned 20" wheels and going slower, Alternative Auto ran a 10.90@127mph on 20" rims Saturday 10-14-06. The truth is they are heavier, and by a big margin but the 315 series tire makes up in traction far more than the few hp lost to higher weight.

Good Luck! P.S. - My Falken rims/tires are on Ebay, if interested take a look #270041029820.

Thanks.

I agree on the need to leave at a higher RPM. It will be interesting to see if you hook at 3K on the wider 20's. Would definitely put some speculation to rest.

As for maximizing exhaust gains, I think you will have to go duals with a straight through design muffler. I think this puts you in MRT/Magnapack territory. Maybe some glasspacks also, or SLP loud mouths. Though I think drone will be in your future, but the flow would be there. You thinking a larger catback system, perhaps some high flow cats as well? Have you considered exhaust cut outs? Dyno data has been inconclusive in this area btw for NA cars. My Y pipe vs X pipe before and after session showed a difference in 2HP in favor of the X pipe which is arguable on the dynojet.

As for Royal Purple, I have read mixed results on it and when used on the entire car, no gains were found. But all the results were mixed. I am curious to see what you find given your thoroughness.

Keep it up, your car is a strong example of what is doable without FI. And I think you and several others have already proven this is an alternative to a V8 without a blower. Low 14 second runs are good for any daily driver. Though I would love to see a 13.9 second pass on one. :)

if you want to go NA, don't use 20" rims but go as light as possible and same goes for tires, you can go wide but keep low profile and light. Trust me, on NA car you can easily shave .1 sec by switching to lighter rims/tires. I used to race Civics/Supras NA and speak from experience :-)
Once you boost and get more tq, bigger wheels will help hook up better.

You still haven't told us what bolt on's you are running

94mph? thats a dream i wish i could meet lol.

even my latest 14.50 run was like 93.1mph.
i did finally break the 2.0 60' time though (1.998)

whats the DA at your track?
maybe scrming will know?

our DA was a horrible 3400 (usually around 5000 in the summer though).

Wow! Seems like the V-6 responds very well to bolt-ons, low 14's with a V-6, take that 5.0L boys! Maybe a gear change will help getting into the 13s? I guess I'd better watch out for sleeper sixers, huh?

i believe hes done gear swap already

If you can get 230/260 please share the formula with everyone. I personally don't think it's realistic without internal work but I hope it is. Good luck on your quest!
ORIGINAL: 996r916sps

Hey,

Thanks for the compliments!

I have a 2006 with a manual transmission, so rpm launchs are whatever the tires can hold. I got some ideas, and with the help of Lidio and Alternative Auto I think 13.99 can happen. I will not strip my car of anything! I race the car, like I drive the car. I drive to the track, and then pull up to the lights!

Paul's High Performance did a nice job, but it's a race car pure and simple. My car already makes more power than the N/A 13.99 of Paul's. He was able to lighten the car and run slicks. There is much more power in there, it's just not easy power like a turbo or blower. Many people have doubted I would get this far, but I think 230rwhp and 260rwtq is there with no power adders. I understand some people can't see the potential, but that's ok. I hope to maximize the N/A portion first, then move into boost. Don't get me wrong, I will not touch any motor internals to get this power.

The current issue is that there is no use adding more power until I can hook what I already have. I am moving from a 255 series tire to a 295 series tire, which will give me an additional 40mm or 1.5inches more on the ground. Since I am running the car pretty hard, it would also make sense to add some safety in the form of an aluminum driveshaft and loop.

After all the items are in place, I need to find another 10hp/10tq. I still think there is more power in the exhaust system, I am running JBA headers and a performance single muffler. I think a nice true dual system would free up a few hp/tq. I will be adding Royal Purple treatment to the anti-freeze to reduce surface tention and provide better lubrication for the pump. The final area of inspection will be the intake manifold and throttle body, I need to look at these pieces closer to see if there is any potential there.

A couple people have mentioned "The bolt-on King", which I have spoken to him via email and I am already further ahead right now. If you click on my user name, you can see all the posts I've made.

One thing to note! I drove 80 miles each way to/from the drag-strip on Saturday, made 16 full-on passes and still arrived home with an 20mpg average! I have also made all this power with 86/87 octane fuel, not premium gas of 91/94 octane fuel. I am also going to run 86/87 octane fuel with the Vortech down the road, but may have to step to premium towards the end.

I am always watching for performance solutions, like the ones listed above. We have not seen a real batch of 4.0L performance parts yet, like lightweight flywheels and things of that nature. When I find these solutions, I'll be sure to post them. One of my goals was to show people there is an alternative to the GT, that doesn't suck!

If you have any performance needs, contact Lidio at Alternative Auto. They can show you a safe alternative solution. Oh ya, I almost forgot. Somebody mentioned 20" wheels and going slower, Alternative Auto ran a 10.90@127mph on 20" rims Saturday 10-14-06. The truth is they are heavier, and by a big margin but the 315 series tire makes up in traction far more than the few hp lost to higher weight.

Good Luck! P.S. - My Falken rims/tires are on Ebay, if interested take a look #270041029820.

Thanks.

Finally someone that agrees with me thank you beaustang I just don't see him getting 13.99 and not lose any weight IMPOSSIBLE, but i hope you prove me wrong

13.99 without weight reduction wont be achieved with just boltons. head work, sure, internals, ya, FI yup, nitrous you got it.

also 230rwhp with just boltons is not going to happen either.
id be lucky to be around 220rwhp, and ive done all the boltons, including duals, headers, pulleys, etc. granted our gas in arizona sucks, but its not worth 10rwhp loss
.

i think 14.1xx is going to be the best possible with stock weight and just boltons

ORIGINAL: 996r916sps

Hey,

Thanks for the compliments!

I have a 2006 with a manual transmission, so rpm launchs are whatever the tires can hold. I got some ideas, and with the help of Lidio and Alternative Auto I think 13.99 can happen. I will not strip my car of anything! I race the car, like I drive the car. I drive to the track, and then pull up to the lights!

Paul's High Performance did a nice job, but it's a race car pure and simple. My car already makes more power than the N/A 13.99 of Paul's. He was able to lighten the car and run slicks. There is much more power in there, it's just not easy power like a turbo or blower. Many people have doubted I would get this far, but I think 230rwhp and 260rwtq is there with no power adders. I understand some people can't see the potential, but that's ok. I hope to maximize the N/A portion first, then move into boost. Don't get me wrong, I will not touch any motor internals to get this power.

The current issue is that there is no use adding more power until I can hook what I already have. I am moving from a 255 series tire to a 295 series tire, which will give me an additional 40mm or 1.5inches more on the ground. Since I am running the car pretty hard, it would also make sense to add some safety in the form of an aluminum driveshaft and loop.

After all the items are in place, I need to find another 10hp/10tq. I still think there is more power in the exhaust system, I am running JBA headers and a performance single muffler. I think a nice true dual system would free up a few hp/tq. I will be adding Royal Purple treatment to the anti-freeze to reduce surface tention and provide better lubrication for the pump. The final area of inspection will be the intake manifold and throttle body, I need to look at these pieces closer to see if there is any potential there.

A couple people have mentioned "The bolt-on King", which I have spoken to him via email and I am already further ahead right now. If you click on my user name, you can see all the posts I've made.

One thing to note! I drove 80 miles each way to/from the drag-strip on Saturday, made 16 full-on passes and still arrived home with an 20mpg average! I have also made all this power with 86/87 octane fuel, not premium gas of 91/94 octane fuel. I am also going to run 86/87 octane fuel with the Vortech down the road, but may have to step to premium towards the end.

I am always watching for performance solutions, like the ones listed above. We have not seen a real batch of 4.0L performance parts yet, like lightweight flywheels and things of that nature. When I find these solutions, I'll be sure to post them. One of my goals was to show people there is an alternative to the GT, that doesn't suck!

If you have any performance needs, contact Lidio at Alternative Auto. They can show you a safe alternative solution. Oh ya, I almost forgot. Somebody mentioned 20" wheels and going slower, Alternative Auto ran a 10.90@127mph on 20" rims Saturday 10-14-06. The truth is they are heavier, and by a big margin but the 315 series tire makes up in traction far more than the few hp lost to higher weight.

Good Luck! P.S. - My Falken rims/tires are on Ebay, if interested take a look #270041029820.

Thanks.


not referring to me are ya? cuz ya 14.59 is close, but its not ahead lol

I'm sure this is just clean fun for some people!

For my mods, see all my previous posts. For my current horsepower/torque you will have to wait until after this weekend when it goes back on the dyno.

I hope first time users are not held back by some people's negative feedback. When you post a response, think about some of the people whom will read it. Don't spoil their excitement for performance!

Anyway, I have already posted numbers of 215rwhp/244rwtq. I have since added ceramic coated JBA shorty headers, which I will dyno the results this weekend and report back my findings. I can't imagine them adding less than 5rwhp/7rwtq. If you read all the posts about gains, the one with the least is 5rwhp/7rwtq with no tune for them. This would put me at 220rwhp/251rwtq. This is already impossible to some of the people in this forum. I find it also hard to believe that some of you don't think there is 10rwhp/10rwtq left N/A. Most people have not addressed any ignition, throttle body, or intake manifold modifications. Remember I'm not using premium gas, I'm using 87 octane. If I get in a pinch for a dyno number, I can always add premium and retune. But with todays gas prices, who wants to run premium if they don't have to.

I hope the new comers see all my previous posts, and judge for themselves. My numbers are real world and easily duplicated, if you get off your wallet. What will they say when it makes 230rwhp/260rwtq? Ohhh well you can't make 240rwhp/270rwtq?

If I could give the 4.0 crowd some advice, maximize your current combination first. Then add more power.

I hope this helped some people!

ORIGINAL: 996r916sps

I'm sure this is just clean fun for some people!

For my mods, see all my previous posts. For my current horsepower/torque you will have to wait until after this weekend when it goes back on the dyno.

I hope first time users are not held back by some people's negative feedback. When you post a response, think about some of the people whom will read it. Don't spoil their excitement for performance!

Anyway, I have already posted numbers of 215rwhp/244rwtq. I have since added ceramic coated JBA shorty headers, which I will dyno the results this weekend and report back my findings. I can't imagine them adding less than 5rwhp/7rwtq. If you read all the posts about gains, the one with the least is 5rwhp/7rwtq with no tune for them. This would put me at 220rwhp/251rwtq. This is already impossible to some of the people in this forum. I find it also hard to believe that some of you don't think there is 10rwhp/10rwtq left N/A. Most people have not addressed any ignition, throttle body, or intake manifold modifications. Remember I'm not using premium gas, I'm using 87 octane. If I get in a pinch for a dyno number, I can always add premium and retune. But with todays gas prices, who wants to run premium if they don't have to.

I hope the new comers see all my previous posts, and judge for themselves. My numbers are real world and easily duplicated, if you get off your wallet. What will they say when it makes 230rwhp/260rwtq? Ohhh well you can't make 240rwhp/270rwtq?

If I could give the 4.0 crowd some advice, maximize your current combination first. Then add more power.

I hope this helped some people!


I hope you succeed in your quest and appreciate the detailed write ups.

I think for the newbs and people that havent been following your posts, and for the sake of making this thead a good example for people trying to achieve this goal, a mod list would be helpful or perhaps place them in your sig. That way, this could be a single source of information vs. searching all of your posts to assemble the list ourselves. I think this is a resonable request. I think you are running a snow kit as well, right?

I don't think people are bashing you, they are just stating thier opinion. They are not making personal attacks, and a lot of them are hoping you reach your goals to show an alternative to a poweradder, myself included.

ORIGINAL: 996r916sps

I'm sure this is just clean fun for some people!

For my mods, see all my previous posts. For my current horsepower/torque you will have to wait until after this weekend when it goes back on the dyno.

I hope first time users are not held back by some people's negative feedback. When you post a response, think about some of the people whom will read it. Don't spoil their excitement for performance!

Anyway, I have already posted numbers of 215rwhp/244rwtq. I have since added ceramic coated JBA shorty headers, which I will dyno the results this weekend and report back my findings. I can't imagine them adding less than 5rwhp/7rwtq. If you read all the posts about gains, the one with the least is 5rwhp/7rwtq with no tune for them. This would put me at 220rwhp/251rwtq. This is already impossible to some of the people in this forum. I find it also hard to believe that some of you don't think there is 10rwhp/10rwtq left N/A. Most people have not addressed any ignition, throttle body, or intake manifold modifications. Remember I'm not using premium gas, I'm using 87 octane. If I get in a pinch for a dyno number, I can always add premium and retune. But with todays gas prices, who wants to run premium if they don't have to.
I hope the new comers see all my previous posts, and judge for themselves. My numbers are real world and easily duplicated, if you get off your wallet. What will they say when it makes 230rwhp/260rwtq? Ohhh well you can't make 240rwhp/270rwtq?

If I could give the 4.0 crowd some advice, maximize your current combination first. Then add more power.

I hope this helped some people!


I looked at the add'l expense to run 93 octane over 87, and for me the extra cost is about $22 per month. IMO, it is worth the extra expense to have the car run better as a DD. In terms of generating dyno numbers and track times, I want every possible advantage I can think of. So that includes: maximum tune (93 Extreme), cool temps, better traction (tires), lightened weight (remove spare, jack, rear seat, clutter, etc), increased shift pressures, etc. If I'm gonna spend the money for dyno time or track runs, then I wanna get the best numbers possible. I don't brag about street trim numbers, it's the best ones I can get that are worth bragging about, then backing it up with slips (nadda slam on anybody).

A pet peeve of mine - when people post dyno numbers I wish they would identify the type of dyno that was used. A DynoJet produces better numbers than a Mustang Dyno. [rant over]

Bill Jr.
28hopup

Tbody gains have been proven at 0rwhp gains on the v6 (some of the gt guys even lost a few rwhp).
nobody makes more than just plug wires for our cars so far, and that wont be worth anything.

i can see 220rwhp with just boltons, as thats probably what im hovering around now.

230rwhp... maybe with race gas and extreme tuning.
240rwhp, i dont ever see that with just boltons.

lund racing said there was minimal gain when using race fuel and advancing the timing. Good gains under the curve, but not peak.

No one is downing you are talking bad about your post, but you are sitting here making it sound like "I'm so amazing because I'm running such strong numbers on just 87". Well that is fine and dandy, but anyone on here can buy bolts ons and you say you will hit 13.99 without losing weight or doing internal engine work and I'm just saying it will never happen just ask FAZM he has every bolt on imaginable and he can't get to 13.99, but once again I'm not downing just stating facts

I'd like to see everyone proven wrong, it would be awesome to see a stock block run 13.99. EDIT: correct facts provided by Fazm. I think DR's will be needed though to get a hard launch out of the car.

I would love to be proven wrong also. I would give anything to be able to beat a gt without using F/I.

rygen, he said in this post he had a manual transmission.

as far as 13.99, im sure if i wasnt in such a hurry to hit FI, id travel to a really good track and give it hell. But here in phoenix arizona, its not possible, period. With the weather startin to cool down into the 80s, i think i might give it a couple more shots (not 13.99, but maybe 14.2x)

ORIGINAL: fazm

rygen, he said in this post he had a manual transmission.

as far as 13.99, im sure if i wasnt in such a hurry to hit FI, id travel to a really good track and give it hell. But here in phoenix arizona, its not possible, period. With the weather startin to cool down into the 80s, i think i might give it a couple more shots (not 13.99, but maybe 14.2x)


Thats my bad, I scanned a post that said "Alternative Auto Tune" thinking it was teh AA auto tune. Thats what I get for scanning posts!

OK, here we go!

2006 Mustang 4.0L V6 - 5 speed manual transmission (current dyno #'s 215rwhp/244rwtq) E.T. - 14.59 @ 94.0mph (no traction)

Mod List: (All mods tested on the same Dynojet dyno at Alternative Auto)

Steeda style front strut tower brace
Hood struts (eliminates prop rod)
Sirius Satellite radio
Auto Concepts hood scoop (non-functional)
Mustang GT painted side skits
C&L Intake with Alternative Auto tune
Pauls High Performance Alternator pulley/belt
Spin-Tech prototype muffler (same as passenger GT Spin-Tech muffler)
FRPP Trac-Lok with Motive 4.10 gears
Roush rear springs
Edelbrock adjustable rear track bar
Steeda short throw shifter w/stops
Falken 18x8 Koblenz wheels with BFG KDW2 255/45-18 tires
MMR throttle body spacer
Royal Purple oils in engine/transmission/rear axle
K&N oil filter
Alternative Auto/Alky Controls Methanol kit with tune
JBA stainless steel headers coated by Thermal Tech (New - not yet dyno tested)

Coming Soon:
Performance Distributors coil, wires & plugs (in development - not yet installed)
Royal Purple water pump additive
Aluminum driveshaft & safety loop
9.5"-10" wide rims for the rear with 295 series tires

I hope this answers most of the questions. Let me also say this about that. I am not saying "look at me", otherwise I would not have posted everything I have ever done to the car overtime. Nothing listed above has been done without testing at Alternative Auto on the dyno. My original goal was to help new-comers to the forum, but over time I have received many non-positive responses. So look at it from my point of view for a second, and you will see I am just trying to help. I have given up all the information on the parts and combination, and where to go if you want it done this way.

There are many people whom doubt the 13.99, which I can understand. I will not remove anything the car came with from the factory, I don't want a gutted street car. It will even keep the spare tire/jack, along with my duffle bag of stuff. My car will run 13.99 by June/July 2007, or when it gets warmer in Michigan, on motor alone with just bolt-ons. I have built sleepers before, and had good luck doing it. The reason 13.99 is so important, is I have a circle of friends that drive 1992-1995 Chevrolet Corvettes. A stock automatic Corvette will run 13.90's, so you can see where I am going with this project.

When I have maximized N/A, I will move to forced induction. My goal is 12.90's with a Vortech and 11-12psi. This is a year or so down the road, so we can bench-race that one later.

Good Luck to all!

I'm curious about your dist. coil, any other details on that one? What did the mfg say about thier development parts that you are looking to get? And the RP water pump additive, new one there. Got some details on those.

Despite the feedback, I think everyone here wants to see a 13.9 pass NA. That would be insane for this car and very cool.

ORIGINAL: rygenstormlocke

I'm curious about your dist. coil, any other details on that one? What did the mfg say about thier development parts that you are looking to get? And the RP water pump additive, new one there. Got some details on those.

Despite the feedback, I think everyone here wants to see a 13.9 pass NA. That would be insane for this car and very cool.

I agree - I think everyone (except fitbikeco perhaps ;)) wants to see you succeed. Thanks for listing your mods - that's very helpful to the n00bs who are learning their way around their 4.0L's.

Question - how heavy is the stock flywheel on a 5-spd, and can it be lightened by machining? I know the Model A guys have been doing that for years with great results. Every tenth helps ('cept for me - I'm an auto).

Good luck with the 13.99's I hope you get it that would be outstanding. Also I understand not wanting to gut the car I don't blame you as I said before I don't like the gutted look, but I would remove the spare tire and jack just my two cents once again good luck.

Well it's a race, I met the thread starter at martin last season, and his car looked great. I run without the spare, jack and rear seat to clear that up, my car wighed 3460 last time at the track, down from the 3618. I also ran 14.32@94 last weekend, spinning tires in the cold. So I know someones gonna run 13.9, Let us know how you make out!!

ORIGINAL: boss 244

Well it's a race, I met the thread starter at martin last season, and his car looked great. I run without the spare, jack and rear seat to clear that up, my car wighed 3460 last time at the track, down from the 3618. I also ran 14.32@94 last weekend, spinning tires in the cold. So I know someones gonna run 13.9, Let us know how you make out!!


I wonder who will win, he has a meth kit you know? :) Or are you already working on one for yourself?

Hey rygen what are the stock gt's running now in a 1/4

ORIGINAL: Dats1NiceMustang

Hey rygen what are the stock gt's running now in a 1/4


C&D ran one stock at 13.7, there was a guy on here that just got one that ran 13.6. I've seen stock ones at the track run 14.4 to 13.9 personally. And with bolt ons run 13.9 to 13.5. Most of the GT's I've seen at the track are autos now that I think about it.

EDIT: Had to make a correction, I saw one run 13.5 or 13.4 with bolt ons, it was an auto as well.

Hey that would be awesome to get 13.9 or better N/A, Do you have LCA's or UCA's? I didnt see it on your list, that might help get a little more traction.

WIth slicks and a 5 grand clutch drop ..i can see the 13.99 happening. One advantage you have over the rest of us is the higher octane (meth) and lidios dyno tunning. My experience tells me there is not much power to be made from ignition/tb/and lower intakes in N/A form...but i guess there is only one way to find out for sure. Headers havent showed great gains in the past so we will be looking foward to your dyno. Good Luck on your quest for 13's ..your car is a 5 speed so for now i will stick to bettering boss244's times:D

Boss244, i already installed the 4.10s and C&L intake. As soon as i break in the 4.10s i will be taking out the same things you take out (seat, jack and spare..which i have never done before ) and giving your 14.4's a shot. I miss my spot at the top of the NA auto foodchain[&:][:'(].

well i wont be able to go back to the track until the 27th.... so you guys have some time on me lol.

Et streets are on the way for me, in prep for the turbo.

Did the tbody bypass this morning, so im pretty much out of mods lol. 27th at night i should be seeing mid to high 60s in temp (end of october in phoenix for ya lol) so i should be able to at least run 14.40s consistently.

ORIGINAL: fazm

well i wont be able to go back to the track until the 27th.... so you guys have some time on me lol.

Et streets are on the way for me, in prep for the turbo.

Did the tbody bypass this morning, so im pretty much out of mods lol. 27th at night i should be seeing mid to high 60s in temp (end of october in phoenix for ya lol) so i should be able to at least run 14.40s consistently.



I would love to see a good "How To" write-up on that by-pass to make into a sticky - RUinterested? Say, what size ET's did you order?

sure i took a few pics, then my camera died, so i have to take a pic of the final.

i used the existing hoses, so its easy to return to stock if i have to.

It literally took all of 4 minutes, and 3.5 of that was fighting with the stupid back hose on the TB lol

and i got the 275/40/17 et's

Totally pulling this out of my butt here, but I was under the impression that a single exhaust gave better gains (1 or 2hp more) than duals. Yeah it may be only 1 or 2 but every bit helps. Also, I've seen 17x10 DD bullits. So that might help keep down the weight instead of using a 20in rim. Also I believe they were running 315's on the back tires with those 17x10's. Just a thought. I'd love to see a 13.9X pass too, and after putting an intake and tune on mine I think there's a tremendous potential hidden in these engines. I mean look what people have done to the explorer/ranger 4.0...

well im sorry to dissapoint you boys, but i ran a 13.99 today all stock except for an mrt single axle-back. It was tight, but there was a cobalt in the other lane that ran a 7.4 TOTALLY STOCK. man those things are really under rated. :eek:

ORIGINAL: 28hopup


ORIGINAL: fazm

well i wont be able to go back to the track until the 27th.... so you guys have some time on me lol.

Et streets are on the way for me, in prep for the turbo.

Did the tbody bypass this morning, so im pretty much out of mods lol. 27th at night i should be seeing mid to high 60s in temp (end of october in phoenix for ya lol) so i should be able to at least run 14.40s consistently.



I would love to see a good "How To" write-up on that by-pass to make into a sticky - RUinterested? Say, what size ET's did you order?


John did one on his site here:

http://www.v6john.com/Main/Performance/TB_bypass/tb_bypass.htm

IMO a meth inj kit is a power adder, just like nitrous. the car would no longer be N/A with meth inj.

PR 4.6 It's 14.3 now.......:)

What kinda of gains do you get off a meth kit ?

ORIGINAL: Dats1NiceMustang

What kinda of gains do you get off a meth kit ?


14rwhp

Here is the write up he did:

http://www.mustangforums.com/m_1708168/mpage_1/key_/tm.htm#1708168

ORIGINAL: boss 244

IMO a meth inj kit is a power adder, just like nitrous. the car would no longer be N/A with meth inj.

PR 4.6 It's 14.3 now.......:)



Iam up for the challenge;)...i just got the jba headers also ..should be here in a week or so ...nothing better than a bit of friendly competition . If i cant beat you I will install the zex kit thats in the corner of my room and go for the fastest nitrous auto jejeje:D
Congrats on the new times... was it a flat 14.30 ? what mph?

hes 14.3281@94.53mph

i demand we use altitude corrections! lol jk

Hopin for some good weather next friday, or at least the friday after that, because after that i wont be n/a lol.

went from a 14.53 @93mph to a 14.50 @ 93mph (a lower 93mph strangely enough) with a 60' of 1.998.

got some sticker tires, so im going to attempt to at least get a 14.40

can the methanol injection kit be used with the x-charger?

oh yeah, since i work in tv news and there's all these meth busts going on, every time i see "meth kit", i first think that someone's talking about drugs. i've been working in tv for too long...

Greetings,

Not a great dyno day. We noticed a lean condition in the mid range between 3000-4500rpm, so we adjusted that. The horsepower/torque was the same, and in some spots 1-2hp/tq less. It could be dyno error, 1-2 hp/tq.

Zero improvement was not expected, and very disappointing. I am not looking much further horsepower/torque increases, unless I just happen to seen some through the ignition upgrade and driveshaft upgrade.

The next round of mods, with be in late 2007 when the Vortech is added. Maybe the headers will make some difference when forced induction is introduced, not sure. I do however have a call into JBA, for some sort of explanation or assistance. Not sure what they can or would do, maybe the can offer me a discount on something else I still need.

It looks like 220rwhp/250rwtq will be the N/A goal for me. I’m close, so maybe it will happen over the winter months with the couple small items planned. Good luck to all.

Hope this saves you money!

discount on something for what?

they claim UP to a certain power level.

which means anywhere from the number they gain, to actually losing power.

That is what we expected....headers havent shown much before , as we had stated. The ignition upgrade probalby wont do anything either. The driveshaft will help since you are taking weigh off a part that the engine has to move. Dont get discouraged ..you just have to adjust your goals accordingly. Let us know whats JBA's answer ..should be interesting to see how they explain this. Remember weather conditions can affect the dyno readings ....since you tested on different days ...weather may have played a part on the readings. Good Luck

Yeah, I figured they would be worth something. Not "0".

I will let you know what JBA says, I was wondering if they would give me a discount on their dual exhaust kit or something.

I'll find 6rwhp/6rwtq somewhere, so I can make my goal of 220rwhp/250rwtq. It won't be easy, but at least I'll know my N/A combo is sorted out nicely. Maybe some of the mods will pay off some dividends when boost is added.

On another note, I'm really glad to see the X-Charger making some gains. I like the kit, I just don't like the price. It's cool to see a V6'er made it into the twelves. Congrats!

See ya!

Good afternoon,

This is what I know at this time, and what I have accepted. I spoke with JBA this afternoon and they are surprised to hear the 0 to 1-2 negative horsepower readings. They do however trust Alternative Auto and their expertise. They have a customer guarantee that if you are not happy with your headers, you may return them for a full refund. This does not cover labor charges for the install/removal.

They stand by their product, and were sorry to hear of this performance problem. They have offered me a set of the JBA powercables, for my inconvenience. I have accepted their offer, and are also going to keep their headers. This was not the goal I was looking for, but at least they stand up and accept responsibility for their product.

I would still consider JBA products in the future, but may look closer at my options before making my final decision. I hope this helps anyone, whom may be planning a purchase of any JBA products in the future.

I have a new set of NGK V-power sparkplugs and soon will have a set of JBA powercables to install. Performance distributors will have their new coil ready in January of 2007, so that will be a nice addition to this combo.

P.S. – I also spoke with Powerhouse411 today, and they mentioned they have free shipping for anyone who uses PayPal and orders online. In my case, this may save me $15 towards the aluminum driveshaft and safety loop. ($549 combo)

Thanks for reading!

ORIGINAL: Puerto Rico 4.6

That is what we expected....headers havent shown much before , as we had stated. The ignition upgrade probalby wont do anything either. The driveshaft will help since you are taking weigh off a part that the engine has to move. Dont get discouraged ..you just have to adjust your goals accordingly. Let us know whats JBA's answer ..should be interesting to see how they explain this. Remember weather conditions can affect the dyno readings ....since you tested on different days ...weather may have played a part on the readings. Good Luck


SAE correction should help with the weather variations...

ORIGINAL: 996r916sps

Yeah, I figured they would be worth something. Not "0".

I will let you know what JBA says, I was wondering if they would give me a discount on their dual exhaust kit or something.

I'll find 6rwhp/6rwtq somewhere, so I can make my goal of 220rwhp/250rwtq. It won't be easy, but at least I'll know my N/A combo is sorted out nicely. Maybe some of the mods will pay off some dividends when boost is added.

On another note, I'm really glad to see the X-Charger making some gains. I like the kit, I just don't like the price. It's cool to see a V6'er made it into the twelves. Congrats!

See ya!



Hmmm.... ok... tell me more about your muffler... you listed it as a prototype... do you have more info on it? What kind of gains did you see with it?

It is from a company called Spintech, it was a prototype when I got it because they angled the tip and added a 3rd hanger for the V6 model. It needs to be returned to Spintech when I am finished with it. It allowed 7.5rwhp more than the stock muffler, without any other changes. I would say it is on par with the muffler from MRT. We found out that 1/2 of their GT system will fit also, so anyone intersted can just order a passenger side GT muffler from Spintech.

I will eventually be running the GT set from Spintech, when I get my exhaust system sorted out. They are loud, but it's ok with me.

Thanks for asking!

ORIGINAL: 996r916sps

It is from a company called Spintech, it was a prototype when I got it because they angled the tip and added a 3rd hanger for the V6 model. It needs to be returned to Spintech when I am finished with it. It allowed 7.5rwhp more than the stock muffler, without any other changes. I would say it is on par with the muffler from MRT. We found out that 1/2 of their GT system will fit also, so anyone intersted can just order a passenger side GT muffler from Spintech.

I will eventually be running the GT set from Spintech, when I get my exhaust system sorted out. They are loud, but it's ok with me.

Thanks for asking!


hmmm... 7.5hp..... I'm thinkin the MRT Aero-Turbine will show a nice gain over the SpinTech... it might just be that 6RWHP you are looking for!

scrming, since you are all-knowing and omnipotent when it comes to MRT, what kind of gains could be made from having the GT areo-turbine exhaust kit?

ORIGINAL: omer333

scrming, since you are all-knowing and omnipotent when it comes to MRT, what kind of gains could be made from having the GT areo-turbine exhaust kit?


I honestly don't know... might actually be worse than a single... I know the few guys who tired dual MRT's weren't really happy with the sound...

I was going to say...spintechs are very loud ...I have a friend who has a pair on his GT and the car sounds like a Nascar stocker ...very very loud jejeje. Iam going to try to do a before and after dyno on the jba headers ...just to see what happens.

ORIGINAL: ST4NG

Nice Job. Once you hit that 14, you wont stop there though. It gets addicting. You'll be pushing for those 13's. Thats why im just saving up for a new engine :). (Possibly roush, or a v8 stock)


new engine swap will cost you a lot and it not just engine.. you are gonna need to change many things such as tranny, rear end, suspension.. brakes. radiator and all those little parts to support v-8 engine.. if you can get GT, that would make you happier and it would be a lot easier..

also, if you get in any kind of accident, when insurance company sees that v-8 engine under the hood, they will right away cancel it and will not cover it.. i hope this was kinda helpful..

to the thread starter: those are some awesome times.. congratulations.. keep it up man!!

ORIGINAL: scrming


ORIGINAL: omer333

scrming, since you are all-knowing and omnipotent when it comes to MRT, what kind of gains could be made from having the GT areo-turbine exhaust kit?


I honestly don't know... might actually be worse than a single... I know the few guys who tired dual MRT's weren't really happy with the sound...


If the sound is such a problem, why not get resonators, or get the MRT with the resonators installed?

The main point of my question had to do with power gains with dual MRTs.

ORIGINAL: omer333


ORIGINAL: scrming


ORIGINAL: omer333

scrming, since you are all-knowing and omnipotent when it comes to MRT, what kind of gains could be made from having the GT areo-turbine exhaust kit?


I honestly don't know... might actually be worse than a single... I know the few guys who tired dual MRT's weren't really happy with the sound...


If the sound is such a problem, why not get resonators, or get the MRT with the resonators installed?

The main point of my question had to do with power gains with dual MRTs.


I have no data or any experience with putting dual MRTs on the 4.0L... so i really don't know what kind of gains you may or may not see..