Finally someone that agrees with me thank you beaustang I just don't see him getting 13.99 and not lose any weight IMPOSSIBLE, but i hope you prove me wrong
13.99 without weight reduction wont be achieved with just boltons. head work, sure, internals, ya, FI yup, nitrous you got it.
also 230rwhp with just boltons is not going to happen either. id be lucky to be around 220rwhp, and ive done all the boltons, including duals, headers, pulleys, etc. granted our gas in arizona sucks, but its not worth 10rwhp loss .
i think 14.1xx is going to be the best possible with stock weight and just boltons
I have a 2006 with a manual transmission, so rpm launchs are whatever the tires can hold. I got some ideas, and with the help of Lidio and Alternative Auto I think 13.99 can happen. I will not strip my car of anything! I race the car, like I drive the car. I drive to the track, and then pull up to the lights!
Paul's High Performance did a nice job, but it's a race car pure and simple. My car already makes more power than the N/A 13.99 of Paul's. He was able to lighten the car and run slicks. There is much more power in there, it's just not easy power like a turbo or blower. Many people have doubted I would get this far, but I think 230rwhp and 260rwtq is there with no power adders. I understand some people can't see the potential, but that's ok. I hope to maximize the N/A portion first, then move into boost. Don't get me wrong, I will not touch any motor internals to get this power.
The current issue is that there is no use adding more power until I can hook what I already have. I am moving from a 255 series tire to a 295 series tire, which will give me an additional 40mm or 1.5inches more on the ground. Since I am running the car pretty hard, it would also make sense to add some safety in the form of an aluminum driveshaft and loop.
After all the items are in place, I need to find another 10hp/10tq. I still think there is more power in the exhaust system, I am running JBA headers and a performance single muffler. I think a nice true dual system would free up a few hp/tq. I will be adding Royal Purple treatment to the anti-freeze to reduce surface tention and provide better lubrication for the pump. The final area of inspection will be the intake manifold and throttle body, I need to look at these pieces closer to see if there is any potential there.
A couple people have mentioned "The bolt-on King", which I have spoken to him via email and I am already further ahead right now. If you click on my user name, you can see all the posts I've made.
One thing to note! I drove 80 miles each way to/from the drag-strip on Saturday, made 16 full-on passes and still arrived home with an 20mpg average! I have also made all this power with 86/87 octane fuel, not premium gas of 91/94 octane fuel. I am also going to run 86/87 octane fuel with the Vortech down the road, but may have to step to premium towards the end.
I am always watching for performance solutions, like the ones listed above. We have not seen a real batch of 4.0L performance parts yet, like lightweight flywheels and things of that nature. When I find these solutions, I'll be sure to post them. One of my goals was to show people there is an alternative to the GT, that doesn't suck!
If you have any performance needs, contact Lidio at Alternative Auto. They can show you a safe alternative solution. Oh ya, I almost forgot. Somebody mentioned 20" wheels and going slower, Alternative Auto ran a 10.90@127mph on 20" rims Saturday 10-14-06. The truth is they are heavier, and by a big margin but the 315 series tire makes up in traction far more than the few hp lost to higher weight.
Good Luck! P.S. - My Falken rims/tires are on Ebay, if interested take a look #270041029820.
Thanks.
not referring to me are ya? cuz ya 14.59 is close, but its not ahead lol
For my mods, see all my previous posts. For my current horsepower/torque you will have to wait until after this weekend when it goes back on the dyno.
I hope first time users are not held back by some people's negative feedback. When you post a response, think about some of the people whom will read it. Don't spoil their excitement for performance!
Anyway, I have already posted numbers of 215rwhp/244rwtq. I have since added ceramic coated JBA shorty headers, which I will dyno the results this weekend and report back my findings. I can't imagine them adding less than 5rwhp/7rwtq. If you read all the posts about gains, the one with the least is 5rwhp/7rwtq with no tune for them. This would put me at 220rwhp/251rwtq. This is already impossible to some of the people in this forum. I find it also hard to believe that some of you don't think there is 10rwhp/10rwtq left N/A. Most people have not addressed any ignition, throttle body, or intake manifold modifications. Remember I'm not using premium gas, I'm using 87 octane. If I get in a pinch for a dyno number, I can always add premium and retune. But with todays gas prices, who wants to run premium if they don't have to.
I hope the new comers see all my previous posts, and judge for themselves. My numbers are real world and easily duplicated, if you get off your wallet. What will they say when it makes 230rwhp/260rwtq? Ohhh well you can't make 240rwhp/270rwtq?
If I could give the 4.0 crowd some advice, maximize your current combination first. Then add more power.
For my mods, see all my previous posts. For my current horsepower/torque you will have to wait until after this weekend when it goes back on the dyno.
I hope first time users are not held back by some people's negative feedback. When you post a response, think about some of the people whom will read it. Don't spoil their excitement for performance!
Anyway, I have already posted numbers of 215rwhp/244rwtq. I have since added ceramic coated JBA shorty headers, which I will dyno the results this weekend and report back my findings. I can't imagine them adding less than 5rwhp/7rwtq. If you read all the posts about gains, the one with the least is 5rwhp/7rwtq with no tune for them. This would put me at 220rwhp/251rwtq. This is already impossible to some of the people in this forum. I find it also hard to believe that some of you don't think there is 10rwhp/10rwtq left N/A. Most people have not addressed any ignition, throttle body, or intake manifold modifications. Remember I'm not using premium gas, I'm using 87 octane. If I get in a pinch for a dyno number, I can always add premium and retune. But with todays gas prices, who wants to run premium if they don't have to.
I hope the new comers see all my previous posts, and judge for themselves. My numbers are real world and easily duplicated, if you get off your wallet. What will they say when it makes 230rwhp/260rwtq? Ohhh well you can't make 240rwhp/270rwtq?
If I could give the 4.0 crowd some advice, maximize your current combination first. Then add more power.
I hope this helped some people!
I hope you succeed in your quest and appreciate the detailed write ups.
I think for the newbs and people that havent been following your posts, and for the sake of making this thead a good example for people trying to achieve this goal, a mod list would be helpful or perhaps place them in your sig. That way, this could be a single source of information vs. searching all of your posts to assemble the list ourselves. I think this is a resonable request. I think you are running a snow kit as well, right?
I don't think people are bashing you, they are just stating thier opinion. They are not making personal attacks, and a lot of them are hoping you reach your goals to show an alternative to a poweradder, myself included.
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Best 1/4: 10.97@122.09, 1.56 60ft w/4.0 V6 Best 1/4: 11.67@115.45, 1.64 60ft w/5.4 3V Best 1/8: 7.401@92.77, 1.65 60ft w/5.4 3V www.rygen.net/stang
Team MF Member #028 Posts: 4289
Joined: 5/11/2005 From: Newark, DE USA Status: offline
quote:
ORIGINAL: 996r916sps
I'm sure this is just clean fun for some people!
For my mods, see all my previous posts. For my current horsepower/torque you will have to wait until after this weekend when it goes back on the dyno.
I hope first time users are not held back by some people's negative feedback. When you post a response, think about some of the people whom will read it. Don't spoil their excitement for performance!
Anyway, I have already posted numbers of 215rwhp/244rwtq. I have since added ceramic coated JBA shorty headers, which I will dyno the results this weekend and report back my findings. I can't imagine them adding less than 5rwhp/7rwtq. If you read all the posts about gains, the one with the least is 5rwhp/7rwtq with no tune for them. This would put me at 220rwhp/251rwtq. This is already impossible to some of the people in this forum. I find it also hard to believe that some of you don't think there is 10rwhp/10rwtq left N/A. Most people have not addressed any ignition, throttle body, or intake manifold modifications. Remember I'm not using premium gas, I'm using 87 octane. If I get in a pinch for a dyno number, I can always add premium and retune. But with todays gas prices, who wants to run premium if they don't have to. I hope the new comers see all my previous posts, and judge for themselves. My numbers are real world and easily duplicated, if you get off your wallet. What will they say when it makes 230rwhp/260rwtq? Ohhh well you can't make 240rwhp/270rwtq?
If I could give the 4.0 crowd some advice, maximize your current combination first. Then add more power.
I hope this helped some people!
I looked at the add'l expense to run 93 octane over 87, and for me the extra cost is about $22 per month. IMO, it is worth the extra expense to have the car run better as a DD. In terms of generating dyno numbers and track times, I want every possible advantage I can think of. So that includes: maximum tune (93 Extreme), cool temps, better traction (tires), lightened weight (remove spare, jack, rear seat, clutter, etc), increased shift pressures, etc. If I'm gonna spend the money for dyno time or track runs, then I wanna get the best numbers possible. I don't brag about street trim numbers, it's the best ones I can get that are worth bragging about, then backing it up with slips (nadda slam on anybody).
A pet peeve of mine - when people post dyno numbers I wish they would identify the type of dyno that was used. A DynoJet produces better numbers than a Mustang Dyno. [rant over]
Tbody gains have been proven at 0rwhp gains on the v6 (some of the gt guys even lost a few rwhp). nobody makes more than just plug wires for our cars so far, and that wont be worth anything.
i can see 220rwhp with just boltons, as thats probably what im hovering around now.
230rwhp... maybe with race gas and extreme tuning. 240rwhp, i dont ever see that with just boltons.
lund racing said there was minimal gain when using race fuel and advancing the timing. Good gains under the curve, but not peak.
No one is downing you are talking bad about your post, but you are sitting here making it sound like "I'm so amazing because I'm running such strong numbers on just 87". Well that is fine and dandy, but anyone on here can buy bolts ons and you say you will hit 13.99 without losing weight or doing internal engine work and I'm just saying it will never happen just ask FAZM he has every bolt on imaginable and he can't get to 13.99, but once again I'm not downing just stating facts
< Message edited by Dats1NiceMustang -- 10/17/2006 12:04:16 PM >
I'd like to see everyone proven wrong, it would be awesome to see a stock block run 13.99. EDIT: correct facts provided by Fazm. I think DR's will be needed though to get a hard launch out of the car.
< Message edited by rygenstormlocke -- 10/17/2006 1:01:04 PM >
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Best 1/4: 10.97@122.09, 1.56 60ft w/4.0 V6 Best 1/4: 11.67@115.45, 1.64 60ft w/5.4 3V Best 1/8: 7.401@92.77, 1.65 60ft w/5.4 3V www.rygen.net/stang
rygen, he said in this post he had a manual transmission.
as far as 13.99, im sure if i wasnt in such a hurry to hit FI, id travel to a really good track and give it hell. But here in phoenix arizona, its not possible, period. With the weather startin to cool down into the 80s, i think i might give it a couple more shots (not 13.99, but maybe 14.2x)
rygen, he said in this post he had a manual transmission.
as far as 13.99, im sure if i wasnt in such a hurry to hit FI, id travel to a really good track and give it hell. But here in phoenix arizona, its not possible, period. With the weather startin to cool down into the 80s, i think i might give it a couple more shots (not 13.99, but maybe 14.2x)
Thats my bad, I scanned a post that said "Alternative Auto Tune" thinking it was teh AA auto tune. Thats what I get for scanning posts!
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Best 1/4: 10.97@122.09, 1.56 60ft w/4.0 V6 Best 1/4: 11.67@115.45, 1.64 60ft w/5.4 3V Best 1/8: 7.401@92.77, 1.65 60ft w/5.4 3V www.rygen.net/stang
Mod List: (All mods tested on the same Dynojet dyno at Alternative Auto)
Steeda style front strut tower brace Hood struts (eliminates prop rod) Sirius Satellite radio Auto Concepts hood scoop (non-functional) Mustang GT painted side skits C&L Intake with Alternative Auto tune Pauls High Performance Alternator pulley/belt Spin-Tech prototype muffler (same as passenger GT Spin-Tech muffler) FRPP Trac-Lok with Motive 4.10 gears Roush rear springs Edelbrock adjustable rear track bar Steeda short throw shifter w/stops Falken 18x8 Koblenz wheels with BFG KDW2 255/45-18 tires MMR throttle body spacer Royal Purple oils in engine/transmission/rear axle K&N oil filter Alternative Auto/Alky Controls Methanol kit with tune JBA stainless steel headers coated by Thermal Tech (New - not yet dyno tested)
Coming Soon: Performance Distributors coil, wires & plugs (in development - not yet installed) Royal Purple water pump additive Aluminum driveshaft & safety loop 9.5"-10" wide rims for the rear with 295 series tires
I hope this answers most of the questions. Let me also say this about that. I am not saying "look at me", otherwise I would not have posted everything I have ever done to the car overtime. Nothing listed above has been done without testing at Alternative Auto on the dyno. My original goal was to help new-comers to the forum, but over time I have received many non-positive responses. So look at it from my point of view for a second, and you will see I am just trying to help. I have given up all the information on the parts and combination, and where to go if you want it done this way.
There are many people whom doubt the 13.99, which I can understand. I will not remove anything the car came with from the factory, I don't want a gutted street car. It will even keep the spare tire/jack, along with my duffle bag of stuff. My car will run 13.99 by June/July 2007, or when it gets warmer in Michigan, on motor alone with just bolt-ons. I have built sleepers before, and had good luck doing it. The reason 13.99 is so important, is I have a circle of friends that drive 1992-1995 Chevrolet Corvettes. A stock automatic Corvette will run 13.90's, so you can see where I am going with this project.
When I have maximized N/A, I will move to forced induction. My goal is 12.90's with a Vortech and 11-12psi. This is a year or so down the road, so we can bench-race that one later.
I'm curious about your dist. coil, any other details on that one? What did the mfg say about thier development parts that you are looking to get? And the RP water pump additive, new one there. Got some details on those.
Despite the feedback, I think everyone here wants to see a 13.9 pass NA. That would be insane for this car and very cool.
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Best 1/4: 10.97@122.09, 1.56 60ft w/4.0 V6 Best 1/4: 11.67@115.45, 1.64 60ft w/5.4 3V Best 1/8: 7.401@92.77, 1.65 60ft w/5.4 3V www.rygen.net/stang
Team MF Member #028 Posts: 4289
Joined: 5/11/2005 From: Newark, DE USA Status: offline
quote:
ORIGINAL: rygenstormlocke
I'm curious about your dist. coil, any other details on that one? What did the mfg say about thier development parts that you are looking to get? And the RP water pump additive, new one there. Got some details on those.
Despite the feedback, I think everyone here wants to see a 13.9 pass NA. That would be insane for this car and very cool.
I agree - I think everyone (except fitbikeco perhaps ) wants to see you succeed. Thanks for listing your mods - that's very helpful to the n00bs who are learning their way around their 4.0L's.
Question - how heavy is the stock flywheel on a 5-spd, and can it be lightened by machining? I know the Model A guys have been doing that for years with great results. Every tenth helps ('cept for me - I'm an auto).
< Message edited by 28hopup -- 10/17/2006 2:04:01 PM >
Good luck with the 13.99's I hope you get it that would be outstanding. Also I understand not wanting to gut the car I don't blame you as I said before I don't like the gutted look, but I would remove the spare tire and jack just my two cents once again good luck.
Well it's a race, I met the thread starter at martin last season, and his car looked great. I run without the spare, jack and rear seat to clear that up, my car wighed 3460 last time at the track, down from the 3618. I also ran 14.32@94 last weekend, spinning tires in the cold. So I know someones gonna run 13.9, Let us know how you make out!!
Well it's a race, I met the thread starter at martin last season, and his car looked great. I run without the spare, jack and rear seat to clear that up, my car wighed 3460 last time at the track, down from the 3618. I also ran 14.32@94 last weekend, spinning tires in the cold. So I know someones gonna run 13.9, Let us know how you make out!!
I wonder who will win, he has a meth kit you know? :) Or are you already working on one for yourself?
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Best 1/4: 10.97@122.09, 1.56 60ft w/4.0 V6 Best 1/4: 11.67@115.45, 1.64 60ft w/5.4 3V Best 1/8: 7.401@92.77, 1.65 60ft w/5.4 3V www.rygen.net/stang
Hey rygen what are the stock gt's running now in a 1/4
C&D ran one stock at 13.7, there was a guy on here that just got one that ran 13.6. I've seen stock ones at the track run 14.4 to 13.9 personally. And with bolt ons run 13.9 to 13.5. Most of the GT's I've seen at the track are autos now that I think about it.
EDIT: Had to make a correction, I saw one run 13.5 or 13.4 with bolt ons, it was an auto as well.
< Message edited by rygenstormlocke -- 10/17/2006 5:19:30 PM >
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Best 1/4: 10.97@122.09, 1.56 60ft w/4.0 V6 Best 1/4: 11.67@115.45, 1.64 60ft w/5.4 3V Best 1/8: 7.401@92.77, 1.65 60ft w/5.4 3V www.rygen.net/stang
Printable Version
RE: Too much power! - 
Thank The Lord For Henry Ford
) wants to see you succeed. Thanks for listing your mods - that's very helpful to the n00bs who are learning their way around their 4.0L's. 
