lol, Glen.... because you dont have a life besides MF. Im just kidding, but i do think about that, Because i am on here ALOT, and have been here for over 2 years. I mainly post in the classic section though.
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2000 GT Mustang Convertible
1966 Mustang coupe- all original, soon to be 4v swap.
Well... news is... I replaced the gasket... still leaks! Now i can pull back the bellhowing cover and SEE its coming from the rear engine seal. Also ontop of that it needs headgaskets. The engine was rebuilt 3k miles ago and has say for 15 years and started every once in a while... So... took me and my dad 2 mins.... The engine is coming out. 2 months and ill have enough to add heads/instake/cam/carb/GOOD Seals to finish it off correctly. -Jon
BTW, I'd go for this cam kit and the matching heads. Then you can save the cost of an intake (and throttle response won't really be an issue).
This would be good with a Weiand Stealth intake and 600cfm Holley DP.
quote:
ORIGINAL: Yonco
Well... news is... I replaced the gasket... still leaks! Now i can pull back the bellhowing cover and SEE its coming from the rear engine seal. Also ontop of that it needs headgaskets. The engine was rebuilt 3k miles ago and has say for 15 years and started every once in a while... So... took me and my dad 2 mins.... The engine is coming out. 2 months and ill have enough to add heads/instake/cam/carb/GOOD Seals to finish it off correctly. -Jon
Speaking of throttle response... today i went to drive. In DRIVE or REVERSE, it stalls if you hold the brake for more than 5 seconds without givin it gas. If you hit the gas fast below 2000 rpm, it goes to stall, and bogs. But if you ease in, its fine! and that not being able to mash it is a problem! also, thanks for the recoomendation on the cam kit. Can i use the heads i have on there now with that? ( im not sure what i have but he said they wernt stock) ill figure out what they are this weekend when they come off. Also, can i change that rear seal while the engine is in the car? That would be much faster! Id have the top half taken apart for head gaskets and lower half/tranny off for the seal? -Jon
Your description of your throttle response sounds like you just need to adjust the carb. The idle mixture isn't right and the enrichment circuit (accelerator pump and accessories) is set up correctly.
You'll need some decent heads, but even the stockers can be ported to work relatively well (I take my stockers to 7k). If you have aftermarket heads, they'll most likely be fine. Post some pics when you get them off.
The rear seal can be changed in the car, but the only thing that sounds like will be left is the block. The crank should be removed for easy access to the rear seal.
Thanks! Ill find a manual on that holley and read up( i have to get a new one with a ford kickdown) and ill start tearing it apart this weekend and look for part $$'s on the heads too! -Jon
Also, me and my dad were talking. Just to take out the motor to do the work. but the problem is, i dont have a engine hoist. How much till the block weight est? with the heads/intake on and tranny accessories etc off ? -Jon
Get an engine hoist rated at least a hundred pounds over what your engine weighs. I always go bigger than smaller. Here is a chart to figure out the weight of your engine. A thousand pounder may be overdoing, but hey, safety counts. http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/misc/EngineWeights.html
< Message edited by Soaring -- 10/10/2006 11:06:11 PM >
yeah, I have a 2 ton hoist, and bought it pretty cheap from pep boys. Go and see if they have a good one like that. BUt, to answer your question, the complete engine with heads, intake, etc will probably weigh around 850-900 lbs.
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2000 GT Mustang Convertible
1966 Mustang coupe- all original, soon to be 4v swap.
The only way a 289 or 302 is gonna be 800-900lbs is if its filled with lead and the trans is attached.. A 302 is around 400-450lbs dressed, and a C4 is around 100lbs. So even if you pull them at the same time (which I dont recomend) you are a long way from 800lbs.
A 429/460 is almost that much but a small block sure isnt.
Engine hoists are great to have, but dont buy a cheap one from Harbor Freight or the like, get a good one with a quality hydrualic lift cylinder. A POS cylinder will cause more grief than anything else. I have one from NAPA and it lifted a 477ci dump truck engine, that thing makes a 460 look tiny and it bent the leg on the lift because it wasnt lifted squarely. It was near impossible to lift it correctly and it is well over 1000lbs of iron fully dressed with the clutch on it.
Luckily you dont have one of those. Figure to spend $180-$300 for the lift, and between $2000 and $4000 on the engine, depending on what machine shops charge, how much labor you do yourself, and what parts you put in it.
I work at a machine shop :)! hence... im a machinist... well tool and die maker apprentice. I started the engine teardown today. got pretty far. All the way down past the heads. Got the heads off and they are stock, but had trw roller rockers 1.6Ratio on them but they wernt adjusted correctly, they had play and wiggles all around. Anyways. 2 hrs to get that far isnt bad. Now im going to buy a new carb/stealth intake and new gaskets all over and throw it back together as soon as i get the parts. I got a kickdown rod off ebay for 30$ too, so that should help fix that problem. And tomarrows project after work is the tranny removal and rear main seal.
Well! today i took out the engine... by hand... My dad, my friend and i lifted it out and threw it on a homemade 2x4 stand and i took the rear main seal out! IT WAS SHOT! all chewed up and no wonder it leaked so much. Im planning on porting my stock heads and i picked up some parts like a wieand stealth intake and new dual header back exhaust and other stuffs from summit( thats a bad things me living close to their warehouse) One thing... is there any sites that have all the torque specs for that 302?? Or can someone just tell me what the crank journals should be spec'ed to? Also, i put in the new rear main seal, I never put any type of sealant between the 2 halves, do i need to put any? -Jon
< Message edited by Yonco -- 10/15/2006 10:24:35 PM >
Make sure the seals are installed correctly, or you'll be doing this again.
The lip on the seal faces the interior of the engine (the oil pressure against the seal should push it out, enhancing the sealing abilities of the seal). The halves of the seal should not line up with the block and main cap, they should be rotated to be about an inch above/below the line of the block and a dab of RTV placed at that union.
There may be some sites, Soaring posted one for a Cleveland today, so do a search on his recent posts as that site may have a place for 302's. You may want to grab a $15 book on Mustangs as well...Chilton/Haynes at least have the torque specs correct for factory engines. Be sure you use the intake torque specs that came with the Stealth manifold and not the factory ratings.
What are you going to do with that single plane intake, anyway?
Well, from what i hear, its a great manifold( the torker, by edelbrock) I was planning on selling it on ebay. If u give me an offer( shipped and have paypal, i can have it out the door sending to you really quick! lets see... Thanks for the info about the seal! It had a diagram about the correct way to put it in but not about how it should be tilted so the cracks didnt line up. And black RTV silicon should work, a small dab inbetween the 2 pieces?? -Jon Also, i noticed the part #'s on the tranny and bellhousing were all from dfferent years! The tranny is a 64, the bellhousing 65 and the car is a 71!
< Message edited by Yonco -- 10/16/2006 4:51:29 PM >
The year just depends on when the part was engineered, not necessarily created.
I'll PM you on the manifold.
quote:
ORIGINAL: Yonco
Well, from what i hear, its a great manifold( the torker, by edelbrock) I was planning on selling it on ebay. If u give me an offer( shipped and have paypal, i can have it out the door sending to you really quick! lets see... Thanks for the info about the seal! It had a diagram about the correct way to put it in but not about how it should be tilted so the cracks didnt line up. And black RTV silicon should work, a small dab inbetween the 2 pieces?? -Jon Also, i noticed the part #'s on the tranny and bellhousing were all from dfferent years! The tranny is a 64, the bellhousing 65 and the car is a 71!
After doing the whole socket test and looking at pictures, i do have a 9 inch! The previous owner must have put that in there too! Now.. to find posi and different gears!..lets get the engine in the car first! -Jon
Printable Version
RE: New mustang, 302 Questions! - 
lol, im j/k. 
