****, your kidding... I just put the whole pan back on and put the cork seal right between the pan and the block with no rtv except around the holes. And i put RTV between all 4 parts of the gaskets( corners). ahh geez, we will see tomarrow after it all dries and i throw oil in it what happens! You all say no performer. What manifold/carb setup should i get that is dual plane and has workings with ford kickdown carbs?? Prefably cheaper! Thats why i like the edelbrock series. Also i know they will work together. -Jon
< Message edited by Yonco -- 10/8/2006 8:39:48 PM >
PERFORMER RPM, with a Holley with ford kick down. There was a nice little combo at Summit that had a wieland stealth intake, with Holley carb and i think a lunati carm for 600-700. I think there is one without a cam though. A wieland stealth is also a good intake for a 289.
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2000 GT Mustang Convertible
1966 Mustang coupe- all original, soon to be 4v swap.
Also, how does that lever work, i saw it on the side of the tranny. is it just a switch that needs pusing back/fourth? how much travel does it need?? I see on holleys online website manual the carb i have WILL work with a ford kickdown attachment on the side which i believe it has.
Also why am i convinced on a performer manifold. The car isnt runnong correctly, it just doesnt feel right at lower rpm's Boggs and i see because of the powerband of the manifold and combination is bad. After i replace the kickdown rod i will see if it does better and then redo the headgaskets and at which time i would like to to the intake manifold then. Mainly, i would like to switch to a dual plane for smoother low end power. -Jon
< Message edited by Yonco -- 10/8/2006 11:38:43 PM >
The manifold is only part of the problem. If you have a lumpy idle and the car is somewhat tuned, the cam will be too big for low end power. Get the carb tuned/rebuilt properly and attach the kick down, then see how it runs. If it comes on strong above 3k and you want low end, you'll need to replace the cam with something smaller....or just live with more power.
The Stealth intake is about the best 2-plane you can get. Combine that with a Holley double pumper and you have a heck of a good combo. Keep the cam lift under .520 and the duration under 228 @ .050 for low end.
Also, how does that lever work, i saw it on the side of the tranny. is it just a switch that needs pusing back/fourth? how much travel does it need?? I see on holleys online website manual the carb i have WILL work with a ford kickdown attachment on the side which i believe it has.
Also why am i convinced on a performer manifold. The car isnt runnong correctly, it just doesnt feel right at lower rpm's Boggs and i see because of the powerband of the manifold and combination is bad. After i replace the kickdown rod i will see if it does better and then redo the headgaskets and at which time i would like to to the intake manifold then. Mainly, i would like to switch to a dual plane for smoother low end power. -Jon
Hey Yonco, first things first. Complete tune up, not just plugs and wires, complete. #1) Concentrate on the Holley, if its been sitting that long there could be all kinds of junk in the carb, put a rebuild kit in it or have it done by a experienced mechanic, dont forget the fuel filter. #2) Distributor, what kind? Stock points or electronic? Whats the advance set at,initial and total?(you need a tach, timing light) If its points invest in a new set as well as a condenser and cap and wires and again make sure the advance is working, mechanical and vacuum. Don't go throwing parts at it thinking they will solve the problem, like the others have said you need to know what the cam is, guessing ain't good enough, you buy a new intake and carb you could make it worse. The car bogs at take off and low RPM? That can be caused by a mis-adjusted accelerator pump and/or incorrect ignition timing. It could be a camshaft installed with to much initial advance, not intentionally but because of manufacturing tolerances you could be a few degrees off, many many possibilities. Save yourself alot of money tuneup, tuneup, tuneup. Give the thing a day and it may run great. Then throw some rear gear at it, that will solve a low end problem. To make a long story short you don't know whats in it, so start with the assumption that the re builder did it correctly and matched all components from the start. One last thing, never use RTV (silicone) on any rubber gasket like the oil pan end seals, silicon is a lubricant to rubber and could cause it (the rubber) to be squeezed out while tightening. Instead use Yellow or Black weatherstripping adhesive
< Message edited by lugnutz -- 10/9/2006 7:11:58 PM >
If you have a head leak and are blowing steam check radiator for bubbles. If you have bubbles in the radiator then u have a compression leak, usually head gasket. Could be warped head, cracked head, cracked block. Summit is great, do a lot of business with them. Have a great selection of parts and reasonable prices.
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Richard Dusterhoff Technician at Ford Performance shop ASE Master certified
Thanks! Can someone forward me to a link for 8 inch rear end parts!?? I cant find anything, they are all for 9 inch rear ends?? Would 3.90's be good for an auto?? or 3.73?? suggestions and reasons welcome! Ill work on ignoring the intake manifold till i get the kickdown rod and carb tuned and see how it works out! -Jon
Now.. a question on the kickdown. My holley DOES NOT have the ford kickdown lever .... SO, is there a way to rig one up?? or do i have to buy a full carb or can i get just the lever seperatly?? -Jon
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RE: New mustang, 302 Questions! - 
Thank's, That is all.
lol, im j/k.
.... SO, is there a way to rig one up?? or do i have to buy a full carb or can i get just the lever seperatly?? -Jon
