OK, Not as bad as I thought. Drivers side gone from firewall to seat tray, passenger side gone from firewall to rear seat bench. Rear pan good. Maybe this is really bad in someones eyes, but hey, it's less then 100 per cent. Anyway, to prevent, slow down any further problems I was wondering if this approach was appropriate? Spray weld thru primer on welded areas, self etch primer. seam sealer, prime, coat with epoxy bed liner top and bottom. any advice?
What would happen if you dont pull the engine and tranny? Is it really neccessary to use a rotisserie? Im also concerned about tweaking the frame when we remove the floor, so are braces needed?
if you do the entire floor as one section pull the drivetrain.
if you do patches, one side at a time you only need to pull the carpet, seats and anything else on the floor that is in the way or will burn. You dont have to go after the spot welds either, you can section the floor pan and butweld the new panel in as long as you have good metal around it to work with.
you guys are gonna make me actually get somewhere on the 71 so I can post pics of what I am talkin about, arent you?
if you do the entire floor as one section pull the drivetrain.
if you do patches, one side at a time you only need to pull the carpet, seats and anything else on the floor that is in the way or will burn. You dont have to go after the spot welds either, you can section the floor pan and butweld the new panel in as long as you have good metal around it to work with.
you guys are gonna make me actually get somewhere on the 71 so I can post pics of what I am talkin about, arent you?
its dark out there.. and it was raining... and I am sore.. and its about bed time.. I been workin on gettin the F150 goin again. it looks like it has an engine again. Maybe tomorrow I will get it fired. (pray for me eh?)
besides i gotta helps some of the newbs so they can geets thems cars runnins agains ya knows...
its dark out there.. and it was raining... and I am sore.. and its about bed time.. I been workin on gettin the F150 goin again. it looks like it has an engine again. Maybe tomorrow I will get it fired. (pray for me eh?)
besides i gotta helps some of the newbs so they can geets thems cars runnins agains ya knows...
Yeah, I'm hip to being sore. I had to replace the negative cable on my F-150 and that sucker is a real pain to get to underneath. You have to twist your body in all sort of contortions just to get the retaining bolt off the frame. Plus, at my age, just changing out the wheels on the 65 is hard for me with my Arthritis in the knees. I must look like a real comical character trying to get down on one knee. These noobs are good kids. God love them all for owning a classic Mustang.
Hey Soaring, and any others willing to reply...I just pulled all the carpet out of my 69 Vert Stang and had a professional body repairman quote me $700.00 to replace the pans (thats just him cutting out & welding in the new ones after I buy the pans/sheetmetal)...This guy built an off-road /rock-climber (jeep-looking) vehicle for Dale Earnhardt Jr that's appeared in a couple TV spots so far (I've seen it in person & on a Discovery Channel type program). I'm from "Race City USA" (Mooresville, NC) and was wondering, Is this a fair enough price ($700.00) to pay someone, to do the work I can't do myself?
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I'd walk a mile in your shoes...That way if you want them back...I'll be a mile away from you and still have your shoes!! :>)
Hey Thumpin, Alot of the material I have read suggest going to the original seams, that would mean getting to the spot welds. My pans only have rust pinholes (many of them) that you cannot even see in a photo. If i do not cut the pans out to the seams am I better off trying to butt them up against each other or using a small overlap?
quote:
ORIGINAL: THUMPIN455
if you do the entire floor as one section pull the drivetrain.
if you do patches, one side at a time you only need to pull the carpet, seats and anything else on the floor that is in the way or will burn. You dont have to go after the spot welds either, you can section the floor pan and butweld the new panel in as long as you have good metal around it to work with.
you guys are gonna make me actually get somewhere on the 71 so I can post pics of what I am talkin about, arent you?
I have another question on this topic..... where should I set the jackstands? Should I use 2 or 3 sets? Obviously rear but would i be better off putting them on both sides of the frame rails as the area I am going to patch? Should I be this concerned about the stresses of the weight?
< Message edited by ACADIST -- 10/8/2006 12:26:33 PM >
Posts: 181
Joined: 6/15/2006 From: West Virginia Status: offline
I guess the "correct" way to install the floor pans is to butt weld them. When I did mine, my cutting and welding skills were not those of a professional so I used approximately 1/2" overlap. After I welded them in completely, I seam sealed both edges. Also, I think the only factory spot welds you will contend with are the ones along the rockers and along the frame rails. I used cinder blocks and shims on the rocker panels during the entire process to keep the vehicle level and to keep it from moving or flexing. I did not raise the vehicle off the ground much, just enough to keep it level, if I remember correctly.
Well today I started cutting. I started with my air cutting wheel but quickly realized that my sawzall was much more efficient. I used the cutting wheel to start the cuts and the sawzall to to cunnect the dots, so to speak. I cut around the frame rails and came back afterward and used a chisel and sledge to seperate the spot welds. I gave the chisel romm to get between by drilling the first two welds and using the chisel to completely remove the welds and then the chisel made real easy work out of the welds I did not drill. http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m128/acadist/Mulege2006053.jpghttp://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m128/acadist/Mulege2006052.jpgAnd here is one with the new sheet metal resting in there, I am going to leave the area on the firewall because it will fix the two small areas on the firewall instead of replaciing the whole firewall. http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m128/acadist/Mulege2006051.jpgIt is easy to see why these cars rusted so much......look at the bare metal in the frame rails.
OK, I have most of the pan cut out, but how do you get to the top of the toe board? I think I have to remove the heater unit. How does this come off? Also will I need to drain the coolant? Any help would be very helpful . Thanks
OK, I have most of the pan cut out, but how do you get to the top of the toe board? I think I have to remove the heater unit. How does this come off? Also will I need to drain the coolant? Any help would be very helpful . Thanks
Shoot us a picture of your toe board to determine if it really needs replacement or not. You might get by with cutting out the cancer and butt welding in a few patches.
Hey man, your pictures look very familair...I'm nearing the point you're at now and was wondering, did you have to cut out the seat boxes (that are spot welded in)? If you cut or drill out the spot welds, can you re-use the seat boxes after the floorboards are replaced, just weld them back in?
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I'd walk a mile in your shoes...That way if you want them back...I'll be a mile away from you and still have your shoes!! :>)
ORIGINAL: 428coupe I took mine off carefully and reused them
Same here. Before removing the seat riser, you might want to take some pictures and / or make some measurements between the seat riser and other fixed points on the car... jot them all down and when it is time to weld the riser back in, get all of your measurements the same before welding. I suppose it does not have to go back on there 100% exactly the same way, you just don't want the seat to be facing 10 degrees off center.
I did one side at a time FWIW... removed floor pan and riser, welded new floor pan in, welded riser back in.
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RE: floor pan replacement - 
