Yeah some F150s have the heat sink for the "Remote mounted TFI". I bought a fender from a 92-96 f150(don't remember which) that was 4x4 and it has the heat sink in the fender. Still have the fender actually.
My 1992 Bronco has a heat sink, it of course is 4x4(at the moment). So if anybody actully reads this you can get a heat sink from a 4x4 F150 or bronco between the years 1992-1996.
< Message edited by 924banger -- 4/5/2007 9:40:03 PM >
Wow Great Source Of Information...this is my Bible!! HAHA ive been trying to build a supertuner out of my car for sometime and this info will certainly help see it through
Posts: 7978
Joined: 9/1/2006 From: Regina Beach, Sask Status: offline
Turboing a 1987-1990 2.3 N/A
Ok, many of you have been asking how to turbo a 2.3 N/A without swapping engines. Well I'll tell you how to, but keep in mind that I have not attempted this 'yet' (meaning I will in the future)
So, first you have 2 ways to go.
1) Forged Pistons 2) Cast Pistons
1) You replace your current pistons with forged pistons so you can run more boost and feel safer.
Now, you decide if you want to run your stock computer or a turbo computer.
Turbo Computer Computer (duh!) Injectors to go with the computer (#30 or #35) Vam to go with the computer (small - 2.5" large - 3") Repin your harness
Stock Computer Injectors (High impediance (sp?) #24 (max 15 PSI) # what ever, the higher the better) Valve on your BAP sensor (controls the amount of boost that enters)
Once you have decided on what you want to do, time to get to work and make it run!
Basics for doing all of this - Remove the engine from the car - Take the engine apart (head, oil pan, etc) - Take the pistons out (unbolting the main caps and slowly pushing from below) - Look for any damage to your cylinder head, cylinder walls, crank shaft, etc - Install new pistons - Make oil return (tap a hole in the oil pan above the oil) - Make an oil supply (tap off the oil line by the pressure sensor/sender) - Put the engine together - Put the engine back in the engine bay of the car - Reconnect everything - Put all the turbo stuff on - Repin your harness (only if doing the turbo computer) - Install the bleeding valve on your BAP sensor (only if using stock computer) - Install your injectors - Test fire the engine listening for 'ping' - Make sure your not running lean and every thing is connected before you put any load or boost on the engine - Start off with very little timing 2* with spout out and knock sensor connected - get 91 or higher octane gas - disconnect the knock sensor and play with your timming untill you hear 'pining' then back it off 2* - 4*
All done. Now be careful with the boost on the stock computer. If your running a turbo computer than its just like a 2.3 turbo engine
2) Same as with the forged pistons, only you want to be running a little rich as not to hurt your cast pistons. They will only take 15 PSI MAX and they wont take it for to long before they start to go down hill
It is recomanded that you don't run to long on the cast pistons as they will melt or explode if you lose your tune or run lean, even for only a second
If there is and questions or information that I've missed, please feel free to PM or e-mail me or just leave a message in here
Posts: 7978
Joined: 9/1/2006 From: Regina Beach, Sask Status: offline
All info is below the pictures
What you need 14 (or 12) gauge wire (about 12 feet of it) A toggle switch Electrical tape Wire cutters Drill with drill bit
What you do Cut the 12ft. wire in half.
Then there is a rubber plug right beside the MAP sensor. (Auto Tansmision People) Take it out and cut a slit in it so you can feed the wires through (Manual Transmission People) Feed the wire through the hole where your speedometer cable is Then you can now feed both the wires through the hole in the rubber plug and grab the 2 wires and pull them where you want to mount the switch. Take the drill and drill the proper sized hole for the switch and plug the 2 wires into the switch. Now use zip ties to hid the wire so it looks cleaner and you also don't rip them out. Now go into the engine bay and route the wires so they are protected and not able to be seen.
Now dissconnect your negative battery terminal. Cut the fan connecter making sure to leave enough wire for yourself to connect the wiring. (also check to make sure the fan is pulling and not pushing air by plugging wither end into the battery) Now connect one line of the wire to the negative side of the battery, and the other wire to the fan. Now connect the other side of the fan wiring to the continuse power of the starter solenoid.
Make sure all your connections are good then put tape on them (stops you from getting a nice shock)
Re-connect the battery, flip the switch and see if its pulling right. If not then you have to switch the wiring over so it will run the right way.
< Message edited by sleeper_inc -- 9/23/2007 2:27:00 PM >
Posts: 7978
Joined: 9/1/2006 From: Regina Beach, Sask Status: offline
Wiring a P series VAM into a 88-90 Mustang (this is for when your doing a 2.3 turbo swap with a computer other than a LA, LB, 8UA series)
Splice into/”T’’ connect the VRef (orange/white) to the wire going to pin 26 of the stock harness (also orange/white). (I say splice into/”T” connect the wire running into the engine bay. This is because pin 26 is being used by the TPS, MAP, and EGR.)
Remove Pin Connector #3 from LX wire harness red block (or take one from your harness you salvaged, and put this pin connector and wire into the red block of your LX harness to plug into your Pin 43 position on the P series computer. The LX harness lacks this connecting pin).
Connect the VAF (white/black) to the wire going to pin 43 of the stock harness (the new connecting pin you just put in)
Connect the VAT (vain air temp) to pin connector #27 (this can be found at your EGR Valve position sensor) Now move that pin #27 to pin #25 and move #25 to an area with no pin (this is the ACT sensor which only the PE, and 87-88 turbo coupe computers can use)
Splice into/"T" connect the VAM signal return (black/white) wire into the LX harness (black/white) wire that goes to pin 46. Do not cut the LX harness (black/white) wire going into pin 46, simply connect this VAM signal return black/white wire to it.
Posts: 4667
Joined: 4/22/2007 From: Camas, Washington Status: offline
Boost Leak Tester
I cant take any credit for this... it was MG man and i am just posting it cause it might be useful for people. So every thing here is all MG man... not me
quote:
Build this from junk laying around. all it is is pvc pipe plugs, A adjustable air regulator, and some rubber tubing. Tubing and fitting I am using is used in the fountain beverage system but any pressure type hose and brass fittings will work. Just drill proper hole in caps, thread it, put fitting in and hook hose to it. Pressurize to 10 psi or less and use soap bubbles to find any leak. WARNING do not go over 10 psi. I tried at 25 psi and had fitting blow out and hit me. I was extremely luck.Any of you building a intercooler system need to do this. You will be surprized how many leaks you find. And since air is measured at vam any air leak will cause running and performance problems.
_____________________________
Currently stangless.
Daily Driver - 74 F100 - 351c - 3 on the tree - everything is manual
Posts: 7978
Joined: 9/1/2006 From: Regina Beach, Sask Status: offline
This is for people stuck using the 87-90 mustang A4LD with a computer that wont support it... (most 2.3 turbo computers, also a good upgrade for a 79-86 2.3 mustang to I guess)
How to get CCL (Clutch Converter Lock-up) on a A4LD without the computer
First, to let you on a little back ground info. The 87-90 mustang A4LD is all hydraulic 1-2, 2-3, and even 3-4 shifting. There is only 2 connections on the whole trans. Park/Neutral safty switch and CCL. The CCL switch is only a 2 wire connection right behind the bellhousing on the drivers side of the transmission, where as the park/neutral switch is a 4 wire connection.
Now, you need to pull the connecter off and look at it
Now with a test light (grounded to the negative side of the battery) test to see which wire is the main power supply. In my case, the red wire in the power supply line, so LEAVE IT ALONE!!!! (unless your using this trans in a 79-86 mustang, in which case you want it to get a constent 12V) Now you see the orange wire, that is your ground connection, now you want to wire it up to a switch because this will tell your CCL to either turn on or off **See note at the bottom** then just ground the other wire from the switch to a ground location.
I put my switch in my shifter cover because its in the open, making it easy to get to, and easy to remember to turn it off **See note at the bottom**
There, all done, and easy to get to/use. Now take it for a drive and see how it works...
**Note** You want the CCL turned off when your not on the HWY so your easy on your transmission and your engine idles down when your "free" driving (no gas, no brake)
ALWAYS REMEMBER TO TURN IT ON WHEN YOUR AT HWY SPEEDS AND TURN IT OFF WHEN YOUR NOT!!!!
Me nor MustangForums.com takes any responsability for any damage done to your car/transmission
< Message edited by sleeper_inc -- 11/12/2007 3:41:04 PM >
Posts: 1
Joined: 4/6/2008 From: Newpot News VA Status: offline
anyone were I can find a new 2.3 block... Ive got and 82 and my brother decided to take it apart now ive got to put it back together and Ive decided to replace the block or go up to 3.3
Posts: 7978
Joined: 9/1/2006 From: Regina Beach, Sask Status: offline
quote:
ORIGINAL: theduke256
anyone were I can find a new 2.3 block... Ive got and 82 and my brother decided to take it apart now ive got to put it back together and Ive decided to replace the block or go up to 3.3
You need a NOS block, good luck finding one for under $1500 though...
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