What you saw should have looked like this and it's not a girdle. The stock cover does not prevent bearing flex/housing flex and provides minimal rear fluid cooling.
Thanks to the member that posted this pic in their swaybar write up
Hey.. I've seen that rear-end before
On Topic.. When I get my gears swapped out, a T-lok is just fine in my book.
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20" Stern ST-7 Hypermesh on Nitto 555's l JBA SS Dual Exhaust/Custom H/Cut-outs l Hellwig Sways lCHE LCA's l JLT Intake/ SCT 93 Oct Bamachip Tunes l FRPP T-lok l Motive 4.10
Disregard below question I just saw you said you assume ( just went to the link didn't read you comment till a second look) yea if it was a 8.8 I think they would post it but I will call tomorrow. Maybe they are the 7.5's out of the Shelby CS 6's.
Thanks for the link.
It doesn't say its a 8.8, how do you know did if it is a 8.8?
< Message edited by dmhines -- 9/14/2006 10:53:59 PM >
Disregard below question I just saw you said you assume ( just went to the link didn't read you comment till a second look) yea if it was a 8.8 I think they would post it but I will call tomorrow. Maybe they are the 7.5's out of the Shelby CS 6's.
Thanks for the link.
It doesn't say its a 8.8, how do you know did if it is a 8.8?
I wouldn't trust the part number (V6 & GT same part number for mufflers but yet diff ) I call them tomorrow, again why would they pull 8.8's out of the GT makes no sense to me. I think on the GT's auto's came with 3.31's and the stick came with 3.55's I'd be happy to with a 8.8 figure by the time you build a 7.5 you could just about have a 8.8.
It is just a swap and I believe you can use the stock V6 driveshaft just have to modify the 8.8 diff by putting the V6 yoke on the diff from the 7.5.
I must say you car looks really nice great job! There are some really nice looking yellow Mustang on the diff forums yours, Scrming , Afixer , Air Foil, Navbtcret come to mind off thee top of my head and that guy who did the Boss look alike with the white letter tires can't remember his name another nice one.
I emailed them about this rear .... it is an 8.8 but is a 3.31 ratio .... they said it would bolt in ....
I had called them talked to Nick from the Cali branch he said its around $200.00 for shipping ($1199.00shipped) out to my zip code. I wanted to see if I could get a better price he offered $1100.00 shipped I came back with $600.00 shipped ended up working out a price of $925.00 shipped told him I would think about it and get back to him. I also asked if I had some other guys that wanted one could you give them that price also he said yes so if anyone wants one give him a call.
If your in Cali or near and can pick it up you will save on the shipping.
The only thing is no 3.55's only 3.31's almost defeats the purpose ($$$) unless you good with a 3.31.
it is a waste to upgrade to a 8.8" rear unless you are over 500 HP, a detorit and a girdle in the 7.5 will handel hte power fine
Mike Bowen broke his 7.5 with 400 HP with a manual I also talked to a certified Ford Mech friend of mine into Mustangs said the 7.5 with 350rwhp said might not hold up very well in his opinion on DR's. I myself don't know how well it would hold up or have experience with this 7.5 ( only 12 bolt GM's) could you give your experience and reasons why you believe it will hold up fine and this would be using DR's and launching at 3500-5000K.
The one question also that comes to mind if it would last why didn't Mike just rebuild his 7.5 he broke or pick up another 7.5 instead of an 8.8?
My honest opion. Unless you are going F/I or spraying a 100 shot or higer there is no reason to go higher than a tlock and gears on the 7.5 rear. Even with the f/i tlock and gears should be just fine. And at that point then maybe you can think about the truetrac. An 8.8 rearend though? useless until you have done some engine building to go with your induction. Thats just what i think
My honest opion. Unless you are going F/I or spraying a 100 shot or higer there is no reason to go higher than a tlock and gears on the 7.5 rear. Even with the f/i tlock and gears should be just fine. And at that point then maybe you can think about the truetrac. An 8.8 rearend though? useless until you have done some engine building to go with your induction. Thats just what i think
I agree with some of what you are saying just looking at the options and by the time you build up the 7.5 money if you could get a 8.8 for about the same money why not I would. I also agree the autos per rygen & Scrming with 7.5 T-lok has held well so far no doubt.
The only thing I am saying and its my opinion (other guys can do what they want) that with a stick and going FI on DR's launching at 3500-5000 if your going to spend the money on all the labor,bearing kit t-lok ,gears etc just spend a little more now while your doing it and get the stronger TT I wouldn't even hesitate for my car
My honest opion. Unless you are going F/I or spraying a 100 shot or higer there is no reason to go higher than a tlock and gears on the 7.5 rear. Even with the f/i tlock and gears should be just fine. And at that point then maybe you can think about the truetrac. An 8.8 rearend though? useless until you have done some engine building to go with your induction. Thats just what i think
Well ... the point was not necessarlily that there was a benefit by going to an 8.8 rear ... the point was they want $925 shpped for the entire thing! A 7.5 T-Lock + New Gears + install labor is gonna Cost $800 ....
If you can get a brand new 8.8 setup including axles, T-Lock & steeper gears for $925 it's pretty much a no brainer to go for it. For an extra $125 you are getting an 8.8 rear - thats worth it no matter what you intend to do to your engine. I can easily swap out the entire rear for a new one in my driveway ... I wouldn't even attempt installing gears & a T-lock in my current rear ... You saying if somebody told you they'd give you a complete 8.8 Rear for your Mustang for $125 you wouldn't do it?
My honest opion. Unless you are going F/I or spraying a 100 shot or higer there is no reason to go higher than a tlock and gears on the 7.5 rear. Even with the f/i tlock and gears should be just fine. And at that point then maybe you can think about the truetrac. An 8.8 rearend though? useless until you have done some engine building to go with your induction. Thats just what i think
Well ... the point was not necessarlily that there was a benefit by going to an 8.8 rear ... the point was they want $925 shpped for the entire thing! A 7.5 T-Lock + New Gears + install labor is gonna Cost $800 ....
If you can get a brand new 8.8 setup including axles, T-Lock & steeper gears for $925 it's pretty much a no brainer to go for it. For an extra $125 you are getting an 8.8 rear - thats worth it no matter what you intend to do to your engine. I can easily swap out the entire rear for a new one in my driveway ... I wouldn't even attempt installing gears & a T-lock in my current rear ... You saying if somebody told you they'd give you a complete 8.8 Rear for your Mustang for $125 you wouldn't do it?
Yes 925 is a good deal but if i were to get an 8.8 i would go for the 200 extra to get the cs6 8.8 rear but i also wouldnt have to pay shipping from hillbank or diversified because they are both close
now I dont know what to get, 8.8 stick with 7.5 . I saw a gear kit (for racing ring and pinion, t-lock and girdle for $650). Also how will new gears (if I stick to 7.5) improve the performance??
now I dont know what to get, 8.8 stick with 7.5 . I saw a gear kit (for racing ring and pinion, t-lock and girdle for $650). Also how will new gears (if I stick to 7.5) improve the performance??
Posts: 288
Joined: 12/20/2007 From: Calgary Alberta Canada Status: offline
Wow,, all this rear end talk has hurt my pea brain.
So Im going to put the T-lock and 3.73's in my 7.5" That along with the X charger and k member braces with torque limiters will be it for a while. If I break something with street tires and mild launch's so beit
Posts: 288
Joined: 12/20/2007 From: Calgary Alberta Canada Status: offline
quote:
ORIGINAL: vtmustangs
favre whats up with you bringing up all these old threads??haha can't wait to hear how that setup works for you though
1. I didnt want to create a bunch of new ones for questions i had
2. I need something to do while I wait for the X to show up ( I understand a batch came in with backwards pointing MAFS ) so instead of buying even more stuff online,, this keeps me busy.
3. thats a lie cuz I just bought a K-member brace with torque limiters today lol
< Message edited by Favre4TD -- 5/1/2008 11:27:36 PM >
Printable Version
RE: T-Locks - 
