When upgrading the Gears do I need both parts like here: http://v6mustangstuff.com/05Drivetrain.htm Ring Gear and Pinion Gear (I'd go for 3.73 since I have Manual) for 7.5in for 2005 Mustang V6 AND the Ford Racing T-Lok Differential for 2005 Mustang V6 ????????? Or will getting both be a good mod?? is this an easy do your self thing??? Also is going to an 8.8 rear end only necessay when adding a blower or will it do anything just a stock???
EDIT: Changed subject line title to eventually make this a sticky - 28hopup
< Message edited by 28hopup -- 9/15/2006 10:19:27 PM >
do NOT get a t-lok, they were designed for a 120 HP bronco 2, you cars put out almost twice as much RWHP
THAT IS COMPLETE AND UTTER BULLSH*T!!!! I have pounded on mine for over 30,000 miles! I launched HARD on a 125HP shot of N20 making almost 500 ft/lbs of TORQUE, with drag radials that did not spin! And before the 8 passes on the 125HP shot I had dozens of passes on the 100HP shot putting down over 400 ft/lbs! HELL i broke my MOTOR and the trac-lok is working at good as the day it was put in!!! Stop spreading this MISINFORMATION!!! Do you have some vested interest in Detroit Locker???
The fact is the only know person that has broke a Trac-Lok is powerhouse... and that was AFTER they had already broke the axles and replace those!!! And the reason they broke the trac-lok was because they were spaying 125HP shot of nitrous and then droping the clutch at 5000 RPM on slicks!!! I don't think anyone on this forum will be doing that anytime soon! The fact is the Trac-Lok will hold up to a LOT more abuse than 99.99% of the people in here will do... and if anyone does get that crazy they'll twist their axles FIRST!!!
< Message edited by scrming -- 9/12/2006 3:15:03 PM >
I havent broken my TLOK, have nearly 50 track runs on it. I was at 362rwtq (dynojet) on the juice, and at 347rwtq (mustang dyno, add 12% to match dynojet numbers) on it with no issues. Had it checked a few times, and will be checking it soon. Scrming never broke his, I think its a manual vs. auto. If you are a manual launch at 5k, sure, you can break one....but an auto, I doubt it.
Though I will be the first to put a stall on the tlock, but I am having a TA girdle put on as well to see how it holds up.
More to come on that.
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Best 1/4: 10.97@122.09, 1.56 60ft w/4.0 V6 Best 1/4: 11.67@115.45, 1.64 60ft w/5.4 3V Best 1/8: 7.401@92.77, 1.65 60ft w/5.4 3V www.rygen.net/stang
do NOT get a t-lok, they were designed for a 120 HP bronco 2, you cars put out almost twice as much RWHP
THAT IS COMPLETE AND UTTER BULLSH*T!!!! I have pounded on mine for over 30,000 miles! I launched HARD on a 125HP shot of N20 making almost 500 ft/lbs of TORQUE, with drag radials that did not spin! And before the 8 passes on the 125HP shot I had dozens of passes on the 100HP shot putting down over 400 ft/lbs! HELL i broke my MOTOR and the trac-lok is working at good as the day it was put in!!! Stop spreading this MISINFORMATION!!! Do you have some vested interest in Detroit Locker???
The fact is the only know person that has broke a Trac-Lok is powerhouse... and that was AFTER they had already broke the axles and replace those!!! And the reason they broke the trac-lok was because they were spaying 125HP shot of nitrous and then droping the clutch at 5000 RPM on slicks!!! I don't think anyone on this forum will be doing that anytime soon! The fact is the Trac-Lok will hold up to a LOT more abuse than 99.99% of the people in here will do... and if anyone does get that crazy they'll twist their axles FIRST!!!
Thanks for clearing that up scrming. And while we're still on the subject of t-loks: How much would be a fair charge for an install or is it something that can be done at home? Any how-to guides or write ups for it? I couldn't find one here.
do NOT get a t-lok, they were designed for a 120 HP bronco 2, you cars put out almost twice as much RWHP
THAT IS COMPLETE AND UTTER BULLSH*T!!!! I have pounded on mine for over 30,000 miles! I launched HARD on a 125HP shot of N20 making almost 500 ft/lbs of TORQUE, with drag radials that did not spin! And before the 8 passes on the 125HP shot I had dozens of passes on the 100HP shot putting down over 400 ft/lbs! HELL i broke my MOTOR and the trac-lok is working at good as the day it was put in!!! Stop spreading this MISINFORMATION!!! Do you have some vested interest in Detroit Locker???
The fact is the only know person that has broke a Trac-Lok is powerhouse... and that was AFTER they had already broke the axles and replace those!!! And the reason they broke the trac-lok was because they were spaying 125HP shot of nitrous and then droping the clutch at 5000 RPM on slicks!!! I don't think anyone on this forum will be doing that anytime soon! The fact is the Trac-Lok will hold up to a LOT more abuse than 99.99% of the people in here will do... and if anyone does get that crazy they'll twist their axles FIRST!!!
Thanks for clearing that up scrming. And while we're still on the subject of t-loks: How much would be a fair charge for an install or is it something that can be done at home? Any how-to guides or write ups for it? I couldn't find one here.
Not sure what a fair price is for an install.. I know it's not something I would want to do in my drive way... Most guys also do gears when they put in an LSD... I was on a very tight schedule and was in a hurry so I didn't shop around for parts, so I ended up buying all my parts from the shop that did the install... (which by the way recommended the trac-lok even though they could have easily sold me the more expensive true-track! This shop specialize in gears and clutches... they carry EVERYTHING! LOL). So over paying a bit for parts I got my gears and trac-lok installed and out the door for $900...
$900!!! I'm already planning to spend about $700 on suspension and I just want the t-lok too. I know it won' be nearly as much for what I want but still. Oh and I'm not paying to get the suspension done, I'll be doing that. I'm gonna try to do some research on the t-lok later tonight and I'll post if I find anything.
Oh look theres ANOTHER mustangman post on truetrac lol i just got done posting in another thread about him saying it in everyone lol. Im not sure but if i were you mustangman you might wanna get a different opinion on Ford T-lok cuz you got 2 people who actually race at the track with alot of power and they say it works good for them so...
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''05 Mineral Gray GT Coupe Premium Trim Shaker 1000, Leather, IUP
$900!!! I'm already planning to spend about $700 on suspension and I just want the t-lok too. I know it won' be nearly as much for what I want but still. Oh and I'm not paying to get the suspension done, I'll be doing that. I'm gonna try to do some research on the t-lok later tonight and I'll post if I find anything.
you can get the gears, tloc, plus install for aroun 700. This is NOT something you want to do yourself unless you already know for a fact you can do it. It would be kind of pointless to not do gears with the t-loc unless you are goin f/i or something. while your rear end is open you might as well have them install the gears so i wouldnt just not get gears to save some cash, you will want some in the long run anyway.
$900!!! I'm already planning to spend about $700 on suspension and I just want the t-lok too. I know it won' be nearly as much for what I want but still. Oh and I'm not paying to get the suspension done, I'll be doing that. I'm gonna try to do some research on the t-lok later tonight and I'll post if I find anything.
you can get the gears, tloc, plus install for aroun 700. This is NOT something you want to do yourself unless you already know for a fact you can do it. It would be kind of pointless to not do gears with the t-loc unless you are goin f/i or something. while your rear end is open you might as well have them install the gears so i wouldnt just not get gears to save some cash, you will want some in the long run anyway.
Thing is money is tight. I have enough for the suspension and a little bit more and will have enough by January for the C&L and XCAL, and I want to have power to both wheels so I want the t-lok. I was thinking about thinking about (lol) the gears later, after the intake and tune (cuz I want to get that magical combo soon!), but you're right I guess I'll hold off the t-lok with gears for later. BTW when you get a tune does it matter what gears you have? For example, say I get my suspension then get the intake and tuner, then if later on I get the gears and t-lok will the parameters on the tune have to be changed?
When upgrading the Gears do I need both parts like here: http://v6mustangstuff.com/05Drivetrain.htm Ring Gear and Pinion Gear (I'd go for 3.73 since I have Manual) for 7.5in for 2005 Mustang V6 AND the Ford Racing T-Lok Differential for 2005 Mustang V6 ????????? Or will getting both be a good mod?? is this an easy do your self thing??? Also is going to an 8.8 rear end only necessay when adding a blower or will it do anything just a stock???
I IMO would go with a TT ( over the T--lok without a doubt )& 4.10's with a manual N.A and or would work well if know you going to go with a centi supercharger, no its not an easy install if you never installed gears I would not even attemp it. I IMO think with a s/c a 8.8 is the way to go but if it is not seriuos track racing on DR's week in and week out I would just go with the TT and gears for street tires and occasional trip to the track on street tires or DRs.
Regarding your question yes you will need both the gear set and if you go with T-lok that also along with a bearing kit around $89.00
The gears 373 or 4.10 is your decision on what you want for me it would be 4.10's.
I agree with others for an auto t-lok has been holding fine but for a stick I would def go TT.
Posts: 11994
Joined: 12/22/2004 From: Ludlow, Mass Status: offline
quote:
ORIGINAL: HurricaneStang
Oh look theres ANOTHER mustangman post on truetrac lol i just got done posting in another thread about him saying it in everyone lol. Im not sure but if i were you mustangman you might wanna get a different opinion on Ford T-lok cuz you got 2 people who actually race at the track with alot of power and they say it works good for them so...
i have my experience, other people have their own, mine has never been good with all my friends including the ones withthe "stronger" 8.8"
Ok so if I go with True Track + 3.73 gears is that all I'd need??? or do I also need a griddle ???
You will need a bearing kit $89.00.
The Griddle IMO I would get it regardless, but see below your decision.
1.N.A just running on the street tires and a little sttreet fun- don't think its really needed. 2. Light track use on street tires again don't think it is really needed. 3.Heavy track use on street tires running lower air pressure yes I would get the girdle. 4. Drag radials without a doubt I would get the girdle.
Well mustangman you do have a valid point i guess i just went a little bit over board. You dont like t-lok fine its an opinion but it dnt mean its garbage, just depending on what your planning on doing to your car...I know that truetrac would definately be the choice for alot of power but if you just doing some light modding it works fine. Always well that ends well though i shall stop my criticism.
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''05 Mineral Gray GT Coupe Premium Trim Shaker 1000, Leather, IUP
Thanks for the the link... BUT... that's one guy in a SN95... not a S197.... sounds to me like it wasn't installed right or some thing... Their are numerous guys on this forum and other forums that have a trac-lock and are running anywhere from 15 down to Rygen's 12.8! NOT A SINGLE PROBLEM! With the Nitrous I was hitting my trac-lock extremely hard... I was down to 1.8 60' times! If the trac-lock is really as bad as you make it out to be there would someone posting about a broken trac-lock at least once a week! I do not know what the difference is between that guys SN95 7.5/trac-lock and our S197 but it's clear that the S197 7.5/trac-lock is holding up lot better than you give it credit for!
Dropping the clutch at 3500 with drag radials, no girdle (bearing cap flex/overheating), coupled with subframe connectors and a good hook is what took the T-lok out in that thread. He should be happy to know that there is no frame flex and his torque is getting to the rear wheels.
There may also be "forgotten" parts of the story.
< Message edited by GrayPony -- 9/13/2006 7:46:45 AM >
Printable Version
Discussion on T-Locks - 
I'm already planning to spend about $700 on suspension and I just want the t-lok too. I know it won' be nearly as much for what I want but still. Oh and I'm not paying to get the suspension done, I'll be doing that. I'm gonna try to do some research on the t-lok later tonight and I'll post if I find anything.
