You are referring to TSB 06-19-02. There is a revised clutch pack that is designed to eliminate this noise. Orignially the friction material on the clutch packs were made of a paper material. This was revised to a carbon fiber friction, which eventually began to make noise (that the tsb describes). Now they are back to paper and the new part number is provided in the above TSB. It has been successful. Best advice, drive the car for some time prior to your dealer visit and express the importance that it is test driven soon after arrival. Your dealer will not drive too long during a test drive as the tech is not paid to drive your car around. He is effectively working for nothing during the test drive and if he has a family to feed, will not drive it for hours should that be needed.
This sounds like advise my father gave me when I got my first car, a 1973 Buick Regal (in 1977). Please correct me if I am wrong but most of these these tips from "a guy who really knows" don't really apply to today's cars. Also, there is some lack of information or vagueness regarding the source of these statements.
I think with today's cars if you follow the manual and service guide, you should not be too concerned about these things unless there is a TSB that applies or you experience a specific problem.
dash rattles are not my thing..... but I can look into it for you. The 06 i just had over the weekend was quiet as a church mouse but I will do a little research..... Meph, I agree. Relativity is not just for physicists. It applies to common sense as well. The premise to better fuel economy is reduce our dependency on foreign oil. The slack in your pocket book is a byproduct, as crappy as that sounds. Ethanol fuel and gas/ethanol hybrids are the best bet at this point in our struggle. The only benefit ethanol has is it's ability to be replentished. Stoichiometry is nearly half that of gasoline, so your mileage is nearly cut in half. It requires more heat engergy to produce a gallon of ethanol than you can get out of it. It has virtually no emission benefits. WE can make more, that is the key. God, I was born 30 years too late. At 25 I want the loudest, nastiest, gas guzzling hunk of muscle you can find. At 25 I can't make enough money or muster enough disregard to the environment to own one. (plus the 70's had the best rock as well.) Anyone figures out how to reverse time, be sure to let me know
With all due respect stanger, my sources are solid as the ground you stand on. I work for Ford and give dealership technicians advice on how to repair your car. I decided to share some of that info with you "laymen" against my better judgement. (I don't want to loose this job). They call me when nobody at the dealer can figure out how to fix your car. I will gladly consider any proof you can provide that would contradict my statements.
With all due respect stanger, my sources are solid as the ground you stand on. I work for Ford and give dealership technicians advice on how to repair your car. I decided to share some of that info with you "laymen" against my better judgement. (I don't want to loose this job). They call me when nobody at the dealer can figure out how to fix your car. I will gladly consider any proof you can provide that would contradict my statements.
Since you are the Ford "Go To Guy" ... if a technician see's a Cold Air Intake on a vehicle are they gonna try to blame it on the intake or possibly deny warranty coverage for engine issues?
As far as the K&N air filter statement goes I was assuming you meant the CAI's that don't require a retune like the K&N or Airraid, atleast one of those actually comes with a new MAF that tricks the computer I think. As far as the fuel pump goes do you know if my 06 built in May of 06 has a revised fuel pump? I've not really experienced any symptoms, but I rarely cruise for long periods and then lay the hammer down.
I've never experienced the gas tank problem either, but I can tell you that when the pump clicks off it means that tank is F*cking full and if you try and top it off it will spill out!
Unless the filter element is packed full of crap, they typically cannot directly attribute engine failure to an intake modification. There are exceptions to everything in life and this is no exception....... if that makes sense.....lol....
Airaid is one of our most notorious lean contributors. They are all junk. ANY aftermarket system will change the characteristics of aiflow and even if the MAF is recalibrated to compensate for this, it will still increase the margin of error. Bottom line, if your computer can't compensate for the change - you will see a check engine light or have drive symptoms. Otherwise if all seems well you may only end up with a slight reduction in fuel economy.
All 2005-2006 mustangs apply to tsb in previous post. If you don't have the issue - you don't need the pump. If your mustang takes fuel normally, you got off good. Play lottery more often :)
But I have a few questions. What about Steeda, C&L, and JLT CAI's. The big performers in that market. I saw a huge driving performance when I had my car dyno tuned with my JLT II on (to the likes of 309rwhp on a mustang dyno w/ 91octane, 70 degree temp). I realize I'm taking risks with the whole warranty thing but damn it is hard to pass up the performance gains. My milage has stayed status quo maybe even gained.
Oh, I have no problem nocking the cobwebs off my 06'!!!
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06'' Mustang GT, Tungsten Grey w/ Red/Charcoal Int., JLT II CAI w/ Dyno tune, Hurst Competition/Plus Short Throw Shifter, FRPP axle back, J&M LCA''s, (309rwhp & 306trq).
I don't think you fully understand what goes into a CAI plus tuner from brenspeed or evo performance, they are customizing the A/F mixture and timing at difference rpms to improve performance, it reprograms the computer. You talk like they are just throwing a high flow filter on it. To my knowledge no recalibration of the MAF is done using a custom tune, but i'm not sure. The intakes from airaid and k&n are different and actually trick the computer. I had no loss in fuel economy with my JLT intake and 91 octane tune.
quote:
ORIGINAL: shaners90lxhatch
All 2005-2006 mustangs apply to tsb in previous post. If you don't have the issue - you don't need the pump. If your mustang takes fuel normally, you got off good. Play lottery more often :)
This is the stuff I can't swallow. So you're saying that some fuel pumps have this problem and others don't? So sloppy quality control on the part of the fuel pump manufacturer? The same goes for the gas filling problem, i wonder if someone who has the pump shutting off problem would have the same probably at my gas station? I always go to the same Amoco station and never had a problem. Now my wifes car is notorious for causing the pump to shut off every 2 seconds, you have to ease into full speed pumping with her car or it will never work.
Same here, the difference was night and day according to my ASS dyno!
quote:
ORIGINAL: PDXStangDude
Cool info shaners!!
But I have a few questions. What about Steeda, C&L, and JLT CAI's. The big performers in that market. I saw a huge driving performance when I had my car dyno tuned with my JLT II on (to the likes of 309rwhp on a mustang dyno w/ 91octane, 70 degree temp). I realize I'm taking risks with the whole warranty thing but damn it is hard to pass up the performance gains. My milage has stayed status quo maybe even gained.
Oh, I have no problem nocking the cobwebs off my 06'!!!
All 2005-2006 mustangs apply to tsb in previous post. If you don't have the issue - you don't need the pump. If your mustang takes fuel normally, you got off good. Play lottery more often :)
This is the stuff I can't swallow. So you're saying that some fuel pumps have this problem and others don't? So sloppy quality control on the part of the fuel pump manufacturer? The same goes for the gas filling problem, i wonder if someone who has the pump shutting off problem would have the same probably at my gas station? I always go to the same Amoco station and never had a problem. Now my wifes car is notorious for causing the pump to shut off every 2 seconds, you have to ease into full speed pumping with her car or it will never work.
Or are you saying they have more than one supplier for the fuel pumps? So some cars get pump A and some pump B, but both pumps are almost identical in manufacturing?
You are referring to TSB 06-19-02. There is a revised clutch pack that is designed to eliminate this noise..............
Ok, I think I'll make an appointment for a late afternoon with the service advisor, go driving around until the noise comes then have them get in the car for a test drive. I understand that the service department can't just randomly perform the TSB if the sympton is not there but I know that the noise is there I just have to let them hear it. Should I just go ahead and mention the TSB to them? While making the appointment or during the ride along?
< Message edited by Flippn -- 9/12/2006 4:29:54 PM >
Situations such as this are why I am hesitant to give you information such as this. I do not want to "bad mouth" my employer and am simply stating the facts as I am told them. In fact, I have to be extremely carefull what information I disclose as there is a certain ammount of confidentiality involved in what I do. All of the pumps operate in the exact same manner. It is purely a matter of chance in regards to whether or not the cavitation accumulates into one big bubble. Don't worry about it if you don't have the problem. I think you are correct that different fuel stations will affect the slow fill. Many variables that contribute to the condition, it is not solely based on the design of the fuel tank crossover tube. Please take all a say for what it is worth. I am not the guy that designs these systems or the guy that is paid to correct their imperfections. A recall would support any issues severe enough to reduce the safety, longevity or overall performance of your vehicle.
Someone earlier tried to clarify if you were referring to a K&N air filter used on a CAI or if in fact a standard, drop-in replacement K&N air filter would cause the lean mix / less fuel efficiency situation?
I'm using just a drop-in K&N air filter. I did notice a very, very slight better sound and engine responsiveness when (and since) I put it in. I do not monitor my fuel usage too closely, but I do not seem to be losing fuel economy... at least as far as I can tell.
Bottom line... Will a K&N drop-in filter (not with a CAI) alone eventually cause more problems that it's worth? Or were you primarily referring to a CAI?
Thanks if you can answer this one too.... and thanks for all the info! I had my fuel pump replace under TSB 06-9-9 as I was clearly experiencing hesitation on acceleratoin after long cruises... and I drive many a long cruise in my early build '06 V6.
I suspect the loss in fuel economy is simply related to....you added a hot rod part (CAI) and you drive the car harder. Also..more air ingested always means more fuel consumed. My GT is stock . If I drive it around town at 60 all day I get great mileage for a 300 hp V8. But who in there right mind can buy a Red Fire GT vert and drive 60 all day? All I know is my 97 F 150 4.6 has 155,000 miles on it and I've changed the plugs once( at 112,000). They came out without any trouble. You just need to buy the correct socket and have the extensions that lock the socket. The hardest part of the job was disconnecting all the spark plug wire connectors. There must have been a set every three inches. Finally, I'd be willing to bet that most of the K&N CAI issues are the result of improper installation. Failure to hook up or place the MAF sensor in the proper location will cause an "engine failure" on any model Ford makes. Just replacing the air filter can produce the same engine warning.
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2006 Red Fire GT Convertible. 1970 Medium Lime Metallic Mach 1 1997 Pacific green/silver F 150 ext cab 4x4 2002 Navy Blue Escape 4x4 [image][image]
drop in filters in my mind are worse than the whole CAI setup. Wet filters and MAF sensors are a bad combination any way you slice it. I don't care what anyone else tells you, or if you don't oil it liberally or whatever. BAD BAD BAD. Use at your own risk. The plugs in the 3v is completely different from any 2v out there. Your 97 has a conventional plug with platinum tips being the only unique characteristic. Only the 04 and up owners have to worry about the breakage issue.