I'm not sure if this is the right place either but no one answered in the A/V. Does anyone know why I get a "pop" sound when my aftermarkert HU turns on. Everything works and is connected right I'm just not sure what is causing this problem.
Also, does anyone know if there is a way to seperate the subs in the trunk of my shaker1000 from the door speaker so they can be adjusted independently.
Also, does anyone know if there is a way to seperate the subs in the trunk of my shaker1000 from the door speaker so they can be adjusted independently.
If I were you I would take that shaker crap out. It's HORRIBLE, in my opinion, I would personally invest in something else if you concerned with sound. But on your question, I'm not quite sure but I think you can unmount them from the trunk and there MIGHT, or atleast should be something there for you to adjust the sound from the back. I'll look into it for you and get you some more info on it though.
I'm not sure if this is the right place either but no one answered in the A/V. Does anyone know why I get a "pop" sound when my aftermarkert HU turns on. Everything works and is connected right I'm just not sure what is causing this problem.
stock amps only take around 5 volts to turn on most better aftermarket decks send out a full 12 volts get a voltage regulator from radio shack for like $3 if it really bugs you, or just toss the stock amps and get a nice 4 channel mine does it, its annoying but i can live with it
I'm not sure if this is the right place either but no one answered in the A/V. Does anyone know why I get a "pop" sound when my aftermarkert HU turns on. Everything works and is connected right I'm just not sure what is causing this problem.
stock amps only take around 5 volts to turn on most better aftermarket decks send out a full 12 volts get a voltage regulator from radio shack for like $3 if it really bugs you, or just toss the stock amps and get a nice 4 channel mine does it, its annoying but i can live with it
Hey man, thanks for that awesome info. I've asked every single person I could think of including that knows about car audio, and none of them could figure it out. That makes me so happy to hear what actually is causing the problem than just guesses. So, I hook up the voltage regulator to the remotes turn on lead ?
I plan to change everything out and put in all aftermarket. This is the only car that i've owned that I havent completely tricked out, as far as audio. All my money is going to performance mods lol...
You need to wire a 5v voltage regulator in between the 12v amp "on" wire from your head unit and the 2 amp "on" wires on the wiring harness. 12v is too much for the shaker amps and adding the 5v regulator fixes it.
On the balance problem with the subs...well you are going to need a really good head unit or an xover/amp balancer. The main problem is the Shaker 1000, and I'm guessing the S500 as well, run the subs mono. There is a Hi and Low output from the Shaker 1000 that goes Hi to the front subs and Low to the rear subs. Everyone is getting the metra wiring harness which converts the High and Low inputs to the shaker sub amps to what appears to be left and right RCAs. You use the L/R sub RCAs out of the head unit and hook it up. You fire up your stereo and "pop" the amps turn on and boom boom boom. Appears to work great, but you cannot fade the front to rear and it sounds kinda funky. What you are hearing is L/R thru the main speakers and then L thru the front sub and R thru the rear or the other way around. Anyway, it kinda messes up your stereo in a twisted way. You can easily fix the "twisted phase" problem by using RCA Y connectors to mix the L/R to a combined signal then Y back out to the Red and White RCAs on the wiring harness. This effectively puts the subs back into mono. Now it's not twisted and sounds much better, but you still can't fade. This is where you need the dual amp fader with xover and lpf to really get it tuned.
I have messed around alot with the S1000 trying to get it to sound acceptable to me. I am finally happy with the performance of the front and rear subs and amps, however I did replace everything else. I have an Alpine head unit and a sound processor with 2 front, center, rear, and sub outputs. I used front 1 for the front speakers, front 2 lpf'd for the front subs (effectively making them mid-bass), rear for the rear speakers, and sub running mono to the S1000 sub amps. Now I can fade the subs front to back and adjust the xover points, slope, and eq. Add some Kappas and a punch PA8004 and you have a pretty rockin system.
Oh man that info Is great. It's nice to finally find someone who knows what there talking about when it comes to the shaker 1000 sound system. Those are all the answers I am looking for. I have the metra wiring harness and the RCA's plugged into the sub L and R. Now when I buy the Y splitter where exactly do I plug that into. I'm still a little confused about that.
Get a Y that has 2 female to 1 male and another Y that is 1 female to 2 males. Connect the single male to the single female (this is sounding like a sex education lesson) and then the metra red/white into the females and the males into your head unit L/R and you are good to go. The signal all meets in the middle for some mixed mono. Should make it sound better, or at least the twisted stereo will be gone.
Ahhhhhhh....gotchya that's what I thought. I appreciate all the help..you have no idea how frustrated all this garbage made me. I am going to do a complete overhaul of my sound system but am putting it off as long as I can, as I am still paying for school...lol. My plan is to install my two 12' Rockford power punch HX2's along with their amps, and all new door speaker and a new 4 channel amp, with a kenwood DDX-8017. Hopefully, this will all be done during winter.
But, when I get my car out of the shop monday the first thing I'm doin is getting a resistor and those Y's.
Okay, I need some major help! I already posted this on the Electronics board but all I got was one reply and it was basically like: "Why would you do that?" So maybe someone can help me here. I have this: http://www.cardomain.com/item/PILPLSW29 Now I know the reviews aren't great, but I'm just trying to get it to work. It powers on and all, but whatever I hook up to it does not work. The wires do not have any polarity in them according to Pilot. I heard that it's just a wireless grounding switch, whatever that means! All i need to do is hook up my power and ground but I just can't figure it out. I tried running it like you normally would, power to one of the wires, and ground to the other wire and grounded to chassis via bolt. Like i said it's getting power, i'm not worried about it turning on within 50 ft like the reviews say, I just want it to turn on period! Please I would pay to have this working, it's killing me!
Put in the Y adapters and the regulator and it sounds 100 times better than it did without it. My stereo shop never heard of that before. I even took it to them to listen to and he said "oh it sounds real good." I was like are you deaf? Everything sounds like it's playing out of the wrong speakers and there is very little high and mids, and everything sounds muffled. He just laughed and said it wasnt the high quality that i was used to in my jeep. Yea well props to me for not being that ignorant and working at a car audio shop. But thanks bchoice, everything works good for now and sounds decent. It will all come out soon but this is by far better that it sounded with the stock HU.
Do you know what that third harness if for that doesnt connect to anything anymore. There were only 2 wires in that harness I believe they were pink and white, and solid pink, Or maybe orange I can't remember ?
My Passenger side Stop and blinkers stopped working.
I have the Meter4 Sequence kit and if blub number 1 doesn't fire the rest won't either..
I first attacked the wireing figuring that something came disconnected... After thorough I found the wiring was perfect - - so.. I check the bulbs! (Which is a PITA because you have to completely remove the tail light assembly to do it!)...
The inside bulb was burned out on the Stop/Turn filament
NOW - - - running around I learn that the factory installed bulb is a 4057 - - you can NOT buy a 4057 (Ford Proprietary)... However - you will find 4157 bulbs ready available at your local Auto Parts place and they work perfectly - and actually are rated at a higher hour capaciaty (8000 hours)
So... just so you know - - - if you burn out a stop/turn Rear bulb... replace with a 4197.
_____________________________
-PW (Professor Wizard)
Vv My Sexy Lady vV 05' Torch Red Vert, Red Int, All Options, Remote Start, Chrome GT's, and other stuff! *Sponsored by Dent Devil*
I tried to follow the thread above regarding the S1000, but not being real familiar with the setup, I got lost. I have the S500 and was wondering if someone could explain (better yet, pics) the layout of the 500 system. Is all of the amplification in the H/U, or are there separate amps? If so where are they located? What is the input/output configuration? I might be the minority, but I like the MP3 capable 6-disc changer. Is there a way to improve sound quality through swapping amps? Any way to add a fader to the door subs or adjust the crossovers? Sorry, kind of thinking to myself...
I'll need to step up slowly (my CAI/X-Cal 2 should be here tomorrow). I have replaced the factory door speakers with Infinities which sound pretty good, but I think the stock H/U is the weak link. I'll probably get another pair for the rear deck, but I think I'd like to hear the new fronts on a different head unit first.
It seems like the door subs only play the real lows and the door mids are clipped too high. The mids just die out. I'd like to keep the door subs (at least for now), but need to consider where replacement amps might be located and getting all the wiring where it needs to go.
If any of you have "stepped" your way through a S500 upgrade, I'd like to hear about it. I'm not necessarily looking for a blasting loud system, just one that sounds good and clear across the whole range. Any recommended, reasonably priced replacement equipment suggestions would be appreciated.
Got a 06 GT stang (spoiler delete). I already have an aftermarket hu, an amp, sub. My ? is I would like to dynomat the car, but right now not enough funds. I like to put in amp & sub, but does the trunk of this car rattle. It's a 10'' JLW3 and I got a alpine 500 mono amp. Like to get some thump in there for the mean time, but if it rattles alot forget it.
thanks
< Message edited by El Rafa -- 8/2/2006 1:58:31 PM >
NOW - - - running around I learn that the factory installed bulb is a 4057 - - you can NOT buy a 4057 (Ford Proprietary)... However - you will find 4157 bulbs ready available at your local Auto Parts place and they work perfectly - and actually are rated at a higher hour capaciaty (8000 hours)
So... just so you know - - - if you burn out a stop/turn Rear bulb... replace with a 4197
The 2006 Owners Manual call for a 4057K or a 3157K. The 3157K is very common.
There is a wiring harness that allows you to hook up an aftermarked HU to the shaker amps/subs?
I have a 2006 GT that had the shaker 500. I recently purchased a Kenwood DDX 6019. I've been going crazy trying to get the subs to work. I've been told twice that it's impossible to get the shaker amps/subs to work with an aftermarket unit, and wouldn't I like to purchase new amps/subs?
Which harness is it? I'd love to find more info on it.
LOL....alot of people think it's impossible, but ther'ye just ignorant. Best buy told me nothing existed and it would be $300 to make it work lol..
I went to my buddies stereo shop and found a metra wiring harness. I found one here on Crutchfield that will work with your S500. Just click the link below.
You plug the 2 RCA's into the sub left/right preamps on the back of your HU. I think you will also need to get the Y adapters like I did to make it sound right.
quote:
bchoice
Get a Y that has 2 female to 1 male and another Y that is 1 female to 2 males. Connect the single male to the single female (this is sounding like a sex education lesson) and then the metra red/white into the females and the males into your head unit L/R and you are good to go. The signal all meets in the middle for some mixed mono. Should make it sound better, or at least the twisted stereo will be gone.
Do I have to do anything to the "trigger" circuit. Some folks tell me that I have to put a big resistor in the circuit, because the stock amps only want 7v to turn on, not 12v.
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