If anyone is interested I have been able to install a oem sirius satellite receiver into my 06 mustang using the 2U6F-14588-BA harness from radiosandmore.com. I just had to change some wires around in the plugs. Really pretty easy once you have the schematic for everything. Let me know if you want the drawings of how I did it. I like having everything look stock. I even found the oem antenae and mounted it to the trunk lid like the 07's
< Message edited by tjs2906 -- 9/9/2006 10:14:41 PM >
Posts: 301
Joined: 11/18/2005 From: Marietta, GA Status: offline
I just went the whole hog and got me the Pioneer Avic-Z1, it's got it's flaws BUT the long and the short of it is ... GREAT
Make sure that you get the FULL metra wiring kit from crutchfield otherwise your amps won't turn on... THEN make sure that you've got the inline resistor for turn on.
Issues noted to date are ... "Fingerprints" on the screen
Otherwise, I've got access to XM, NavTraffic, Sirius and the iPod as well without any issues
_____________________________
[image]Please respect our 250px tall X 500px wide sig size limit[/image]
Posts: 114
Joined: 3/30/2006 From: Kansas City Status: offline
Well, Iam going to try and install a 2006 Ford AM/FM/CD 6 Navigation sys from an 2006 Explorer. part # 6L2T-18K931-AF. This unit made by Pioneer, uses touch screen. The unit is an OEM unit, new, bought off ebay. I will let everyone know how it goes. I suspect it will be a plug and play operation. I'll need to get gps antenna, going to use a thin flim patch type, mounted under the rearwindow masking. My stealth amatuer radio setup is great, and if I can get the pioneer oem ford unit working correctly, I should be able to use the touch screen and av input thu my car pc interface to manage both the am/fm/cd/navigation functions, and my icom 7000 transceiver. I've installed a stealth am/fm - two way comms vhf/uhf antenna that was provided by Commpro systems http://www.comprodcom.com/english/products/disguised/index.php. This system is externally identical to the oem mustang antenna, but with proper setup, I can listen to am/fm car radio, and still use the same antenna for vhf/uhf/tv monitoring or transmitting. There's not even a static blip on the fm or am radio, when I'm talking on the local vhf/uhf repeater. I plan on using a audio cutout switch, letting me select which system has priorty to speakers, and use car speakers for both system. The icom 7000 radio, antenna tuner, car pc are mounted on 1/2 inch plywood cut out hung on 3" studs below the rear package deck. So when trunk is opened, sys is nearly out of sight. You have to bend over and look at the bottom of the rear package deck, where the speakers are mounted to see the radio, antenna tuner, and car pc. I left 10" cut outs around the oem rear speakers so as to not block air movement. I've noticed no distortion in stereo sound and radio system is far enough from speakers, plus inside metal cases, so magnetic fields are not causing any intereaction btwn the two systems.
I will get some pic's posted soon.
k0yz
< Message edited by tomsa55 -- 10/3/2006 1:27:56 AM >
_____________________________
2006 V6 Black Auto w/Pony Package, Ford Racing T-LOK w/3.73 gears, Muffler by borla. Blue Oval STB, BMR A-arm brace, panhard bar, brace, cntrl arms, and brckts. MMR Intake w/SCT 89 octane tune AAP,35% tint Solarguard.
Posts: 114
Joined: 3/30/2006 From: Kansas City Status: offline
I got the Ford Navigation sys installed. I ordered a gps antenna from Ford for a 2006 Freestyle, this unit fits up under the dash, I mounted the antenna using heavy duty double back sticky foam tape up under the dash on the center line about 8 inches from the back edge, that was as far as I could reach and still place it up against the bottom of the top vinal dash. System works great, but just like the shaker systems, it has to be programed with a diagnostics tool on what vehicle it's installed in. The back lights for the buttons don't work, and I get an error msg on power up, talked to the service rep at ford, they said to bring it in, that uploading my vin and build number into the unit was easy. I will be taking system apart again for the aux avi input from my icom 7000. But need to get system programed into my vehicle first. Sounds better than the shaker 500, and still plays mps cds, with built in 6 cd changer. I will be tapping the gps data out line on the sys board, but need more information on this Pioneer unit made for ford. My goal is to use it as the single point interface with my audio, gps, nav, and com's radios using the pioneer screen in aux mode to see status of transceiver's ( will be able to watch broadcast tv too)
Next mod will be putting on the gt take off's leather seat covers and installing the oem ford heated seats. I got the covers, heat pads (2 per seat), wiring harness from a 2007 ford mustang, including the oem switch panel, but after working all day geting the center consol out radio installed, I examined the wiring harness, and I'll have to dissemble center consol, remove radio and center stack, glove box, and poss instument panel just to remove the old harness. I'm thinking this is bigger job than I wanted, and might just let the shop install the seat covers and heaters, wiring them in with out using the new harness and switch panel, just aftermarket install.
Yea I'll bet some pic's uploaded too :)
_____________________________
2006 V6 Black Auto w/Pony Package, Ford Racing T-LOK w/3.73 gears, Muffler by borla. Blue Oval STB, BMR A-arm brace, panhard bar, brace, cntrl arms, and brckts. MMR Intake w/SCT 89 octane tune AAP,35% tint Solarguard.
Posts: 114
Joined: 3/30/2006 From: Kansas City Status: offline
Well, I took my stang with the 2006 Ford Navigation system installed to the dealer, showed the tech the TSB on changing radios, and asked him if this applied, he told me yes. They tried to program the Ford 2006 Navigation radio into my mustang, got to the point where intering the VIN, went ok, then the production number/code, but when tried to upload and program the radio, caused an unspeicifted error. The prduction code + vin is used to program the radio to communicate with car's ecu. (car's onboard computer) But the software program used in the laptop/diagnostic tool says this is not a valid production code for this radio. Any suggestions ? I will try and email ford and ask if they would provide a valid production code that will allow the radio to be programed into this vehicle. I don't think it would be that diffucult, I'd bet the production code to authorize this vehicle / radio combination has allready been written, just not released to ford service as this was not a option for production. The ford mustang uses the same radios in production that the explorer and freestyle uses, and these vehicles come from factory with this as an option. So the correct production code has probably allready been generated, just not released yet. Any ford techs here that have an email to the proper ford contact that might release this information so as to make it available to install this radio into the mustang ? With out the proper programing into the vehicle's computer system, the buttons back lights, the auto-dimming of the screen and speed volume dont work. But the naviagation seems to work just fine, radio and cd changer work fine too. Sound's better than the shaker 500 also.
Also, would using the production codes from an explorer/navigation comb work, or would the diag sys reject programing this as it know from vin that this is a mustang not an explorer ?
So far cost's have been minimal, $374 for the navigation radio, $89 for the gps antenna ( used the one from the 2006 freestyle) and $12 for the am/fm antenna adapter (best buy). As this is an $1900 option on the 2006 explorer, I am still going to try and get this figured out. This nav radio is made by pioneer and had a very good display would make a great upgrade/mod for any of the 2005+ mustangs.
Thumbnail Image
Radio shop got back to me, will have to remove radio and send to repair depot to program to my mustangs vin, but all functions including aux inputs will be functional. only $150 :/
< Message edited by tomsa55 -- 11/18/2006 12:30:59 AM >
_____________________________
2006 V6 Black Auto w/Pony Package, Ford Racing T-LOK w/3.73 gears, Muffler by borla. Blue Oval STB, BMR A-arm brace, panhard bar, brace, cntrl arms, and brckts. MMR Intake w/SCT 89 octane tune AAP,35% tint Solarguard.
This is way above my head right now as I just purchased the stang and am looking for info on how the Shaker 1000 is set up (how many amps, subs, who makes what, where located etc). You do seem to address the shortcoming of not getting enough into the rear subs. Where can I find some more info on the basics so I can understand what you are talking about. Thx.
quote:
ORIGINAL: bchoice
You need to wire a 5v voltage regulator in between the 12v amp "on" wire from your head unit and the 2 amp "on" wires on the wiring harness. 12v is too much for the shaker amps and adding the 5v regulator fixes it.
On the balance problem with the subs...well you are going to need a really good head unit or an xover/amp balancer. The main problem is the Shaker 1000, and I'm guessing the S500 as well, run the subs mono. There is a Hi and Low output from the Shaker 1000 that goes Hi to the front subs and Low to the rear subs. Everyone is getting the metra wiring harness which converts the High and Low inputs to the shaker sub amps to what appears to be left and right RCAs. You use the L/R sub RCAs out of the head unit and hook it up. You fire up your stereo and "pop" the amps turn on and boom boom boom. Appears to work great, but you cannot fade the front to rear and it sounds kinda funky. What you are hearing is L/R thru the main speakers and then L thru the front sub and R thru the rear or the other way around. Anyway, it kinda messes up your stereo in a twisted way. You can easily fix the "twisted phase" problem by using RCA Y connectors to mix the L/R to a combined signal then Y back out to the Red and White RCAs on the wiring harness. This effectively puts the subs back into mono. Now it's not twisted and sounds much better, but you still can't fade. This is where you need the dual amp fader with xover and lpf to really get it tuned.
I have messed around alot with the S1000 trying to get it to sound acceptable to me. I am finally happy with the performance of the front and rear subs and amps, however I did replace everything else. I have an Alpine head unit and a sound processor with 2 front, center, rear, and sub outputs. I used front 1 for the front speakers, front 2 lpf'd for the front subs (effectively making them mid-bass), rear for the rear speakers, and sub running mono to the S1000 sub amps. Now I can fade the subs front to back and adjust the xover points, slope, and eq. Add some Kappas and a punch PA8004 and you have a pretty rockin system.
Hope the info helps.
The Shaker system is setup a little weird and not aftermarket friendly. The head unit itself powers the front and rear speakers. My guess would be that their around the 25w range. The subs are ran mono. If you have the metra harness for the subs you'll notice 2 RCA's and two remote turn on wires. One set is for the front door subs and one set is for the rear subs. The front door subs are about 200-250w and about the same for the rear subs i believe. I don't know where the amp location is for the front door subs. Possibly in the door themselves. The rear sub amps are located behind the subs i believe. There's a sticky thread with a link to a guide that shows how to remove all of it.
The subs are about the only good part of the Shaker system. Problem is getting them to work correctly with aftermarket parts is a pain! The head unit is your standard factory crap. That's why most people will tell you to just go all aftermarket and ditch the whole shaker system. The Shaker system is made by some unknown company that was probably contracted by Ford. With a few modifications it could've been a great system.
_____________________________
'06 GT Vista Blue Premium Package C&L CAI Diablosport Predator 93 Octane Tune Corsa Axle-backs
I dont know if it deals with the audio or what, but there is a little black box type thing under the drivers side dash. It has a 3/8" plug in for it what looks like an auxillary plug. Could someone give me an idea on what this is?
Posts: 205
Joined: 10/1/2006 From: Riverside, CA Status: offline
quote:
ORIGINAL: Professor Wizard
A silly situation I encountered last night.
My Passenger side Stop and blinkers stopped working.
I have the Meter4 Sequence kit and if blub number 1 doesn't fire the rest won't either..
I first attacked the wireing figuring that something came disconnected... After thorough I found the wiring was perfect - - so.. I check the bulbs! (Which is a PITA because you have to completely remove the tail light assembly to do it!)...
The inside bulb was burned out on the Stop/Turn filament
NOW - - - running around I learn that the factory installed bulb is a 4057 - - you can NOT buy a 4057 (Ford Proprietary)... However - you will find 4157 bulbs ready available at your local Auto Parts place and they work perfectly - and actually are rated at a higher hour capaciaty (8000 hours)
So... just so you know - - - if you burn out a stop/turn Rear bulb... replace with a 4197.
Is the "4197" a typo on your part or will a 4197 and a 4157 work? fd
My Passenger side Stop and blinkers stopped working.
I have the Meter4 Sequence kit and if blub number 1 doesn't fire the rest won't either..
I first attacked the wireing figuring that something came disconnected... After thorough I found the wiring was perfect - - so.. I check the bulbs! (Which is a PITA because you have to completely remove the tail light assembly to do it!)...
The inside bulb was burned out on the Stop/Turn filament
NOW - - - running around I learn that the factory installed bulb is a 4057 - - you can NOT buy a 4057 (Ford Proprietary)... However - you will find 4157 bulbs ready available at your local Auto Parts place and they work perfectly - and actually are rated at a higher hour capaciaty (8000 hours)
So... just so you know - - - if you burn out a stop/turn Rear bulb... replace with a 4197.
Is the "4197" a typo on your part or will a 4197 and a 4157 work? fd
Just want to clear up a mistake shown in a quote above. A 4057 and 4157 have the exact same life expectancy:
@12.8 volts the 4057 is rated for 4,000 hours as is the 4157 @14 volts the 4057 is rated for 10,000 hours as is the 4157
Both are double filament wedge base bulbs.....the difference is with regards to design amps.
@12.8 volts the 4057 is 2.23 design amps and the 4157 is 2.23 @ 14 volts the 4057 is .48 design amps and the 4157 is .59
You can use either for servicing the tail lamp bulb.....in fact you can use 3157 or 3357 also. With the 3157 or 3357 you'll want to install a LL version (Long Life) which has the same lifetime rating as the 4057 and 4157.
My job as Ford is service requirements of interior and exterior lighting.....among other things. You can trust any info on give on this subject. Also, the question about DRL.....it's a configuration of the SJB. A service tech will have to use the WDS to "flip the clip" on the DRL code box to "off". If you're in Canada the dealer will not do this as it would be illegal.
I've installed a HID kit on a 07 and worked for two weeks then flickered and went out. I installed a relay harness on it and it just flickers from the get go.
Now when I put a test light on the + side of the connector to see what might be going on, the lights just come on and stay one. I'm thinking of putting a 5ohm resitor on the + side of the relay harness.
I'm having the same problem as above my Hids flicker out some time tried the whole relay thing and now they only do it once and a while but they make some static nosie.The guy at my shop told me I need a capacitor cuz the alt isn't putting out enough power or something, but he doesn't know what kind. Can anyone help if this goes on there going to blow for sure and there goes 400 bucks.
My question is about bluetooth. First of all, is there a module you can install so that yourcar interfaces with you phone, and you dont see any of it? Like it was factory? I have the factory installed nav system, just wanted to know if there was an internal bluetooth that can be installed in our cars. Furthermore, if anyone has this, how do you do it, how does it work etc. And if it doesnt exist, anyone have any good external bluetooth accessories they can reccomend?
Thanks
< Message edited by Burnsy -- 3/25/2007 6:43:49 PM >
i had this same problem with my headlight hid's, but not with my foglight hid's. i used a meter to check the voltage and concluded that the voltage wasn't clean enough. meaning there was some alternating current present. hid ballasts are electronic devices and require clean direct voltage. i installed a full wave bridge rectifier (four diodes) inline and this fixed the issue of blinking rapidly.
Okhere is my problem and hopefully one of you will know the answer. I bought a new 2007 gt 500 and I had the dealer install the factory gps (shaker 1000 came stock) The shaker 1000 with it's powered sub sounded great but now the factory gps just sounds ok and is not using the powered sub is there something I can buy or do to make this system use the sub to make it sound better?
Posts: 601
Joined: 3/22/2006 From: Detroit Status: offline
Does anyone know where I can find a write up on removing the entire shaker 500 system?
_____________________________
2005 GT Auto SLP Crew Member GT500 Splash Gaurds & Front Lip JCT II CAI & Xcal 2 with Brenspeed tunes - IF YOU OWN A STANG YOU MUST DO THIS MOD!!!!!!!!!
I just installed a kenwood 6019 in my 06 gt. The crazyst thing is happening. Whenever i step on the clutch the radio mutes and says call. (extremely anoying seeing i live in chicago) Could this be a wire on the harness that i used that was labeled mute. On manual transmissions could this be a sensor for something, and why would they have that going to the radio anyway?
Printable Version
RE: ELECTRONICS DISCUSSION... Audio, Visual, Lighting... - 
RE: ELECTRONICS DISCUSSION... Audio, Visual, Lighting... - 
