Yea, It needs some sort of 5v resistor. It's 5v actually not 7v. I was told by numerous people that you don't need one if you don't want. The popping noise at turn will not hurt anything It just gets annoying after a while thats all. I went to radio shack and couldnt find a 5v resistor so have to find some electronic shop that does. I really don't notice it anymore I guess I'm used to it, but soon I will be replacing everything anyways so I think I can deal with it for now.
Got rid of my skipper 500 today. Had my kenwood sirius deck installed and it looks really great. One question though, although the base seems good, I can't feel a lot coming from the two big black speaker covers in the bottom portion of the doors. Is it possible the installer didn't hook up the subs?
It is possible, many of the installers out there don't know crap. Especially when trying to integrate with existing equipment, they just want to sell all new stuff. Do you hear a pop when you turn the stereo on? Is there a separate subwoofer control in the head unit? You might have to pull the radio and have a look?
It is possible, many of the installers out there don't know crap. Especially when trying to integrate with existing equipment, they just want to sell all new stuff. Do you hear a pop when you turn the stereo on? Is there a separate subwoofer control in the head unit? You might have to pull the radio and have a look?
No pop when I turn the stereo on at all. I checked both turning the power button on/off, as well as starting the car with the power on. No pop.
Here's the deck I had put in: The KDC-X469 has a built-in 50 watts x 4 amplifier, high-pass & low-pass electronic crossovers and front, rear & non-fading pre-outs for easy system expansion. Its System Q-EX Sound Control offers preset EQ curves like Jazz, Rock, and Pop for customizing your music, and you can also use its bass, midrange, and treble tone controls for further fine-tuning. The KDC-X469 plays CDs, CD-Rs, and CD-RWs, it's SIRIUS satellite-, HD Radio- and Kenwood Music Keg-ready, and Dual-Zone capable. The extra-wide full-color display has a white LED backlight and a large dot matrix readout. A flip-down removable faceplate with carrying case and a grip-type remote control come standard.
Should I be able to drive the door subs with this deck?
Just called installer and asked about door subs. He made a few calls and determined that I need two harnesses and that he'd only ordered one of them. He'll have the 2nd harness tomorrow and will correct the problem at that time. Sounded pretty cool as he said I'd be able to turn the door sub levels up and down independent of the main volume!
I'm glad you called them on it. My guess is they were hoping you wouldn't notice. I tried looking up the KDC-X469 and didn't see it in the current lineup so I'm guessing you pulled it from a previous car? I did find the manual and checked out the specs. There is a preamp out that is non-fading, but it does have a level adjustment and LPF with a 50/80/120/Through setting. That will work great for the subs! If you are using the stock speakers then you should use the 120 setting, if you have upgraded the door speakers then 80 would probably be best. The Through setting will probably be too much. Having the level adjustment will make it really easy to tune the sound.
One thing to watch out for is how they connect they S500 sub amps to the preamp outs. I think there is just one preamp input to the two front amps (mono). When they use the Metra wiring harness they will have 2 RCAs and it will look like left and right. I have the S1000 and using the Metra wiring harness gives me one for the front subs and one for the rear subs both mono. I'm guessing one of the RCAs on the wiring harness will be dead since you don't have the S1000. (someone please correct or confirm this as I don't have the S500 and am just making a guess). If they just plug the 2 RCAs from the wiring harness into the non-fading output on your KDC-X469 you will probably get only left or right signal, but not both, coming out of your front subs. This will sound funny and will bum you out. What you need to do is mix the left and right using a Y cable giving you a mixed stereo or mono output to the Metra RCA that goes to the amps. In your case a single female to 2 males Y RCA is what should work.
Please let me know if this is the case for the S500 setup so I'll know if I'm giving the correct advise or full of it.
Oh yeah, I almost forgot about the popping not poppint. See some of the posts above for the solution to the amp popping. You will need a 5v voltage regulator (couple bucks from radio shack) to be soldered inline from the 12v external amp control wire (pink/black on your radio) to the light blue wires on the Metra wiring harness. If you don't have the regulator you will have annoying pop when you fire up the radio!
Any installer that is any good will know how to do it.
Thank you SO much! I printed out the page from Crutchfield and faxed it to the stereo place that did my installation. They ordered it and installed it for me (for no additional cost) and I love it! I really appreciate the help!
el rafa, before i shipped my stang back to the states, i was running two pioneer carbon fiber cone 12's rated 200 watts rms. so total it was around 400 watts rms for my two subs w/ a matching pioneer 800 max/400rms by 2 channel amp running at 2 ohms. it isn't a whopping amount of bass but enough to give you a headache if you listened to it for than 20 minutes at full capacity. on the outside of the car w/ the doors closed you could hear a little bit of a rattle but not too bad and on the inside it sounded perfect. if you don't like the rattle on the outside, just simply locate where its coming from and eliminate it. as long as it sounds good on the inside who cares? you wont hear the the rattle on the inside i promise you w/ a single w3. if you were running a w7 then i don't know....
I get the same thing with my Pioneer AVIC-d2 and my shaker 500. One question, can the pop sound damage the speakers?
quote:
ORIGINAL: doode
quote:
ORIGINAL: backinblack06
I'm not sure if this is the right place either but no one answered in the A/V. Does anyone know why I get a "pop" sound when my aftermarkert HU turns on. Everything works and is connected right I'm just not sure what is causing this problem.
stock amps only take around 5 volts to turn on most better aftermarket decks send out a full 12 volts get a voltage regulator from radio shack for like $3 if it really bugs you, or just toss the stock amps and get a nice 4 channel mine does it, its annoying but i can live with it
Has anyone tried replacing the door subs with anything aftermarket? I am trying to decide what to do. I am going to go with a Pioneer avic-d1 and don't know what speakers to put in at the same time
all i can say is goold luck on that one mdlesk. i tried and went all over town to get something that would fit and i couldn't find anything. and getting the subs out is hard enough. you have to remove a bunch of crap including the door panel just to get access to the subs on the doors. it's a pain in the a$$.
OK I haven't been able to fix this mybe some here can point me in the right direction I had some HIDs put in and I love them just that every now and again one of them will turn off or it'll flixer on and off and the other one will shut off. It seem to happen alot when it rains. They guy I bought it from says its the installation something about the ground wire but the shop says its the ballest..ANy ideas
I did a few searches online and found a shallow mount 8'' subwoofer made by pioneer. TS-SW841D. It has a mounting debth of 2.5'' Does anyone know if this would fit in the doors of the mustang? Also, is it possible (or even worth it) to replace the factory amps? I really want to keep the factory look with the shaker 500 H/U
This is way above my head right now as I just purchased the stang and am looking for info on how the Shaker 1000 is set up (how many amps, subs, who makes what, where located etc). You do seem to address the shortcoming of not getting enough into the rear subs. Where can I find some more info on the basics so I can understand what you are talking about. Thx.
This is way above my head right now as I just purchased the stang and am looking for info on how the Shaker 1000 is set up (how many amps, subs, who makes what, where located etc). You do seem to address the shortcoming of not getting enough into the rear subs. Where can I find some more info on the basics so I can understand what you are talking about. Thx.
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ORIGINAL: bchoice
You need to wire a 5v voltage regulator in between the 12v amp "on" wire from your head unit and the 2 amp "on" wires on the wiring harness. 12v is too much for the shaker amps and adding the 5v regulator fixes it.
On the balance problem with the subs...well you are going to need a really good head unit or an xover/amp balancer. The main problem is the Shaker 1000, and I'm guessing the S500 as well, run the subs mono. There is a Hi and Low output from the Shaker 1000 that goes Hi to the front subs and Low to the rear subs. Everyone is getting the metra wiring harness which converts the High and Low inputs to the shaker sub amps to what appears to be left and right RCAs. You use the L/R sub RCAs out of the head unit and hook it up. You fire up your stereo and "pop" the amps turn on and boom boom boom. Appears to work great, but you cannot fade the front to rear and it sounds kinda funky. What you are hearing is L/R thru the main speakers and then L thru the front sub and R thru the rear or the other way around. Anyway, it kinda messes up your stereo in a twisted way. You can easily fix the "twisted phase" problem by using RCA Y connectors to mix the L/R to a combined signal then Y back out to the Red and White RCAs on the wiring harness. This effectively puts the subs back into mono. Now it's not twisted and sounds much better, but you still can't fade. This is where you need the dual amp fader with xover and lpf to really get it tuned.
I have messed around alot with the S1000 trying to get it to sound acceptable to me. I am finally happy with the performance of the front and rear subs and amps, however I did replace everything else. I have an Alpine head unit and a sound processor with 2 front, center, rear, and sub outputs. I used front 1 for the front speakers, front 2 lpf'd for the front subs (effectively making them mid-bass), rear for the rear speakers, and sub running mono to the S1000 sub amps. Now I can fade the subs front to back and adjust the xover points, slope, and eq. Add some Kappas and a punch PA8004 and you have a pretty rockin system.
I just got a 2006 GT and the map lamps do not go off. I have tried pressing the buttons, holding them, and they saty on. I am afraid they will drain the battery - I cannot get to the dealer until Tuesday because of the holiday.
Has anyone had this problem or have any suggestions - is there a way to just remove the bulbs?
You will have to search around a bunch to gather the info you need. Here is a handy diagram of the back of the Shaker radio: http://www.mustangforums.com/upfiles/26885/489AE96D708B4FBA9CD3DD9C9BEDA9D6.jpg There was also a great 5 page wiring diagram of the entire S500/S1000 system, but I can't find the link. I was never able to find out the crossover points on the shaker system, but the lack of control and overall poor sound quality just left we wanting.
In a nutshell, the S500/S1000 headunits have its own power driving the front and rear speakers. I don't know what the power output of the head unit is, but its not much and not clean. They have line level outputs, labeled high and low on the S1000, that send a lpf'd (low pass filter) signal to the sub amps in mono. High to the front and Low to the rear. There are 2 sub amps for the front and 2 sub amps for the rear. The front sub amps are on the drivers kick panel (for the S1000). There are 2 sub amps behind the Shaker 1000 subs in the trunk. The front subs are some strange low profile setup and are a non-standard ohm rating and appear to be bi-amped, where both amps drive both speakers in tandem. The rear is more traditional with one amp for each of the 2 subs in the box.
Now some people have been scrapping the entire subwoofer system or replacing the fronts or the rears. I blew a chunk of change on my upgrades, but didn't find it necessary to scrap either the front or rear sub systems. Once I was able to adjust the crossover points and level adjust the front and rear it really sounds solid. I don't prefer hiphop, but I can pump the 808 and impress all the girls and it sounds WAY better than the stock system just because its tuned. If the Shaker headunit had adjustable xovers and a dual amp fader for the subs it would be much better, but it only has boom-on/boom-off which sucks.
I'm rambling now so I'll leave you with this advice. Search the forums for info, put all the information together with some cash and build yourself a system. Good luck trying to find an installer that understands the Shaker system cause they don't know crap!
Have fun! Bill
quote:
ORIGINAL: mlawdawg
This is way above my head right now as I just purchased the stang and am looking for info on how the Shaker 1000 is set up (how many amps, subs, who makes what, where located etc). You do seem to address the shortcoming of not getting enough into the rear subs. Where can I find some more info on the basics so I can understand what you are talking about. Thx.
quote:
ORIGINAL: bchoice
You need to wire a 5v voltage regulator in between the 12v amp "on" wire from your head unit and the 2 amp "on" wires on the wiring harness. 12v is too much for the shaker amps and adding the 5v regulator fixes it.
On the balance problem with the subs...well you are going to need a really good head unit or an xover/amp balancer. The main problem is the Shaker 1000, and I'm guessing the S500 as well, run the subs mono. There is a Hi and Low output from the Shaker 1000 that goes Hi to the front subs and Low to the rear subs. Everyone is getting the metra wiring harness which converts the High and Low inputs to the shaker sub amps to what appears to be left and right RCAs. You use the L/R sub RCAs out of the head unit and hook it up. You fire up your stereo and "pop" the amps turn on and boom boom boom. Appears to work great, but you cannot fade the front to rear and it sounds kinda funky. What you are hearing is L/R thru the main speakers and then L thru the front sub and R thru the rear or the other way around. Anyway, it kinda messes up your stereo in a twisted way. You can easily fix the "twisted phase" problem by using RCA Y connectors to mix the L/R to a combined signal then Y back out to the Red and White RCAs on the wiring harness. This effectively puts the subs back into mono. Now it's not twisted and sounds much better, but you still can't fade. This is where you need the dual amp fader with xover and lpf to really get it tuned.
I have messed around alot with the S1000 trying to get it to sound acceptable to me. I am finally happy with the performance of the front and rear subs and amps, however I did replace everything else. I have an Alpine head unit and a sound processor with 2 front, center, rear, and sub outputs. I used front 1 for the front speakers, front 2 lpf'd for the front subs (effectively making them mid-bass), rear for the rear speakers, and sub running mono to the S1000 sub amps. Now I can fade the subs front to back and adjust the xover points, slope, and eq. Add some Kappas and a punch PA8004 and you have a pretty rockin system.
Thanks Bill. That gives me a start. Make you wonder what the heck they were thinking in wiring it in such a strange way. Very strange that they send the low imput to the rear, among other thngs.
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