Posts: 9
Joined: 8/7/2003 From: United States Status: offline
Newbie here with my first post.
I have a 93 5.0 GT hatchback/ 84k miles, completely factory.
It runs good, but eats a little oil, and the oil pressure seems a tiny bit low. Clutch is worn. Brakes are getting a bit thin. Paint is oxidized.
My goal is to turn this, tired pony into a fine stallion.
A nice handling road machine with good power. Stiffer body, as much rubber on the road as possible, better suspension, and maybe around 300hp.
I would like you suggestions on where to begin, and maybe how best to get there.
Posts: 9
Joined: 8/7/2003 From: United States Status: offline
Hi Jeep,
jeep45238 said:
Engine rebuild and a new clutch.
--------------------------------------------
OK. So if you need to rebuild the engine, should you do a straight rebuild, or is this an opportunity to do some modifications? If so, then what what upgrades would be logical?
Also if changing to a new clutch, what model would be a good upgrade?
Thanks for your response, greatly appreciated,
James
Posts: 2045
Joined: 5/22/2003 From: Newport News, Va Status: offline
if your going to rebuild the motor, make it a nice 331 or 347 stroker. with some head work and higher compression pistons, you'll easily hit 300 hp. and if you need a new clutch, put a performance one in.
Posts: 2199
Joined: 3/31/2003 From: United States Status: offline
Total rebuild using forged parts, lower compression pistons (if you plan on going for boost), higher compression if you want to stay n/a or juiced (just don't get cocky with it), and a stroker crank.
Feel free to bore it over too.
Personally, I'd DE-stroker the motor (higher RPM freindly), bore it over (help it breath), get heads, lower c/r pistons, twin turbo and juice.
Should have streetable manners and make a lot of power too.
Posts: 495
Joined: 6/4/2003 From: United States Status: offline
jmiyake,
Welcome....it seems that you want for your car what I'm doing with mine. Street/Road handler more than 1/4 mile style.
Rebuild the engine, that 84K and oil consumption is NOT good. A 331 should put you in a good position for HP and streetability.
Then you have to stiffen the hell out that rod (and I'm not talking Viagra here) -- start with the body stiffeners (while you research moving suspension parts, like struts, coil-overs, adjustable uppers/lowers etc...) - Sub-frame connectors, spend the x-tra 50 bucks and get the RAIL connectors, not just the sticks or cross braces but the ones that look like train tracks with a zig-zag in the middle (kenny brown makes nice ones) and WELD it. Front and rear sway bars. Strut tower brace engine bay, strut tower brace rear or street cage.
Tires - with the front sway bar, you can fit 245s up front and 275s (if you roll the fender) if no roll then 265s fits very well. - if you lower the car, do NOT lower it more than 2.25 inches - I would suggest 1 - 1.75. (coil-overs will make that adjustable for you)-- now that you have lowered the car and have bigger patch contact you are going to need the X-ball joint and bump/steer kit. for that do NOT go with anyone other than Steeda, their X-ball joint has a longer stem and corrects the angle that changed when you lowered the car, bump/steer will work with it also (will let you tires plant and not go where THEY want to go) - and of course Caster Camber plates are a must especially for a Road car.
movable suspension is next - struts, shocks, uppers, lowers, rear and front -- I was thinking about swapping the stock k-member, but after talking to a few companies and a loooooong arse visit to Steeda, it's stronger to keep the stock k-member for road.....steeda IS getting ready to put a road race k-member but that won't happen till October this year...I'll wait....you should also, along with front a-arms.....tokico makes Illuminas which are excellent and not TOO expensive considering their adjustability, get the coil-over kit with a mid-hard spring rate...get upper (HD) rear double -adjustables and lower adjustables...remember that a road car is different in suspension strength than 1/4 mile cars -- not better, not worse, just different -- doesn't mean you can't take your car to the 1/4 mile track and do passes all day long, it just means that IT'S not an expert in that field, just like a daily-driven 1/4 mile geared car is not going to handle the road as well as a road car.....both are fun....which is why after I'm done with this one, i'm building a 1/4 mile one.
you are all probably tired of reading, so I'll stop ...............for now......... let me know how your project is going.....we'll swap ideas and exp. ----
Posts: 1655
Joined: 6/14/2003 From: Poplar Grove, KY Status: offline
i would build a 306 with afr or brodix aluminum heads. buy a centerforce clutch. put a set of 3.73 gears in . a pro 5.0 shifter. cold air intake throttle body mass air meter and the list goes on forever. but a 306 is nice not to wild or to mild. and yeah a b303 cam is good for that combo!
Posts: 9
Joined: 8/7/2003 From: United States Status: offline
Hi BCisMe
BCisME said:
if your going to rebuild the motor, make it a nice 331 or 347 stroker. with some head work and higher compression pistons, you'll easily hit 300 hp. and if you need a new clutch, put a performance one in.
--------------------------------------------------
OK. So what is involved in doing the 331-347 stroker thing? How much might it cost?
Performance clutch sounds like a great idea!
Posts: 9
Joined: 8/7/2003 From: United States Status: offline
Jeep Said:
Total rebuild using forged parts, lower compression pistons (if you plan on going for boost), higher compression if you want to stay n/a or juiced (just don't get cocky with it), and a stroker crank.
Feel free to bore it over too.
Personally, I'd DE-stroker the motor (higher RPM freindly), bore it over (help it breath), get heads, lower c/r pistons, twin turbo and juice.
------------------------------------------------
Since I want more of a road machine, I think I'll probably go normally aspirated. So higher compression sounds good. Stroker eh... ok.
Better breathing sounds good too.
What is a good approach for the intake?
Posts: 9
Joined: 8/7/2003 From: United States Status: offline
Some great stuff here Whitehawk. It's gonna take me a bit of time to sort through it. You seem to have a very good sense of what I am trying to do.
331 seems to be a good concensus so far. What is a good brand kit to go with? Anyone?
Good practical tips on the stiffeners, now I know what to look for.
Posts: 9
Joined: 8/7/2003 From: United States Status: offline
BuzzStang said:
i would build a 306 with afr or brodix aluminum heads. buy a centerforce clutch. put a set of 3.73 gears in . a pro 5.0 shifter. cold air intake throttle body mass air meter and the list goes on forever. but a 306 is nice not to wild or to mild. and yeah a b303 cam is good for that combo!
------------------------------------------------
Hi Buzz,
The centerforce clutch seems to be a great suggestion! Thanks!
On the cold air intake, I see the bottom feeding ones, how do they compare with the ram top hood ones?
thanks for your feedback. How does the 306 compare with like a 331?
Posts: 495
Joined: 6/4/2003 From: United States Status: offline
jmiyake,
Good sense probably cause I've done it a few times...lol.
The stang I'm working on is going VERY slow.....no garage this time around which means alot of the work has to go to shops (more $$$) (!#$%) --
let me know what ur working on and I'll give you some options with pros and cons and whatever else I can. Then you decide...remember it's YOUR car that's probably the most important part that people forget or lose focus on.
Printable Version
Stock 93 5.0 GT Where to begin - 
) -- start with the body stiffeners (while you research moving suspension parts, like struts, coil-overs, adjustable uppers/lowers etc...) - Sub-frame connectors, spend the x-tra 50 bucks and get the RAIL connectors, not just the sticks or cross braces but the ones that look like train tracks with a zig-zag in the middle (kenny brown makes nice ones) and WELD it. Front and rear sway bars. Strut tower brace engine bay, strut tower brace rear or street cage. 