Rear Brake Problem

00blustang · 06-12-2006, 03:09 PM

I am changing the rear brake pads on my daughters 2000 V6 mustang and can't get the caliper piston compressed with a C-clamp. It doesn't move inward so that I can get the new pads on. Is there a trick to this? Thanks. Bob

PRO50SC · 06-12-2006, 03:20 PM

You need a tool that rotates the piston clockwise as you push in on it.

00blustang · 06-12-2006, 03:25 PM

thanks. I did a search and did find out about the tool. Hopefully the advanced autoparts will have one. thanks. Bob

00blustang · 06-12-2006, 04:21 PM

the universal tool I bought at Advanced didn't work. Anyone have an idea where to get one for the mustang caliper?

PRO50SC · 06-12-2006, 05:20 PM

Is the caliper piston notched and if so how? I have taken the blade of a screwdiver and inserted it into the notch and rotated and pushed in on it at the same time. It works.

Derf00 · 06-12-2006, 05:32 PM

Quote:

ORIGINAL: PRO50SC

Is the caliper piston notched and if so how? I have taken the blade of a screwdiver and inserted it into the notch and rotated and pushed in on it at the same time. It works.

Umm..I have a 00 V6 and that trick will not work. It takes a LOT of pressure to turn that caliper. I had even taken the top off of my Master Cylinder to allow the pressure somewhere to go as I rotated the piston.

00Blustang - It's easier to get the piston turned back in with the caliper off. You will need the leverage. Pep boys has a little bit better selection and one that should work for you made by Lisle Tools. The universal ones work 'ok' but can really start to chew the caliper face if they don't fit snug enough and if you don't apply enough pressure on the tool as you turn the caliper. Make sure you turn it Clock-wise to get to go in.

Since you will be removing the calipers, you will need to bleed the rear brakes.

Also... DO NOT REMOVE THE SPRING on the caliper. Word of advice from experience. I took it off on one of my calipers since it made it way easier to get the caliper piston turn in but two shops could not get the spring back into the dang thing. Took me two hours, a set of channel lock pliers, a screwdriver, needle nose pliers, zip ties, and more profanity than I use in a year to get that sumabitch back in.

00blustang · 06-12-2006, 11:49 PM

Thanks for everyone's help. After finding out that the "tool" to do the job costs over $200 from Snap On, a shop owner suggested that I try the following, which worked like a charm: Put the caliper back on without the rotor, this secures the caliper. Apply pressure with a C-clamp (7") then using big pliers, grap the piston (small area not covered by the boot) and rotate clockwise. The C-clamp becomes loose indicating that the piston is going in. Do this over again and again causing the piston to move into the caliper. At some point, just the pressure of the c-clamp causes the piston to rotate on its own. You need to do this until you have at least 1.5" of distance between the piston and the frame to allow for the new pads and rotor. It doesn't hurt to go furthur, makes it easier to remount the caliper. You will need to align one of the slots on the piston face to engage the center pin on the back of the pad. An easy way to know it is aligned properly is to look at the base (attachment area) of the spring attached to the top of the pad and it should line up with the other slot in the piston (you can see this after the pad is installed). Hope this helps someone else. Bob