Think I need to cut the connector off the blue/white wire from the Pioneer harness " to system control terminal of the power amp or auto antenna relay" ,and connect them there.
< Message edited by praztek -- 7/12/2006 11:15:08 AM >
I'd want as much text as possible - that's why I'd like to see some pics of any of them with the Sat function enabled. I'm terrible at remembering artist/song information so it's nice to have the text there - even if it scrolls like the RDS function does.
Pioneer AVIC-Z1
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Veritatem cognoscetis et veritas te liberabit 2005 GT Convertible, Tuned by Dynospeed Racing in Memphis DD: BMW 335xi
ok I have a question for those of you using the metra harness and a 5V resistor...where in the amp-on wire did you put the resistor? From the post above it looks as though the author said he put it in before the factory harness. To me that reads before it even gets to the HU. Wouldn't you put it inline from HU to amp?
Also, on the Metra/crutchfield amp harness...which of the blue wires is the turn-on and where does the other one connect?
ok I have a question for those of you using the metra harness and a 5V resistor...where in the amp-on wire did you put the resistor? From the post above it looks as though the author said he put it in before the factory harness. To me that reads before it even gets to the HU. Wouldn't you put it inline from HU to amp?
Also, on the Metra/crutchfield amp harness...which of the blue wires is the turn-on and where does the other one connect?
The amp on wire goes to the input on the resister. The output of the resister goes to one of those blue wires to the amp harness. If you have a Shaker 500 system, then one of those wires will turn on your sub amp. If you have the Shaker 1000 system, then the other wire will turn on the trunk sub amp. They can essentially be twisted together since there is only one amp on wire coming from the head unit. I soldered mine onto the resister and mounted the resister to the cross bar at the back of the opening of the radio after I drilled a hole for it. You will need to use something metal as a heat sink so the resister doesn't over heat.
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08 GT500 vapor silver with all the options except for NAV.
OK, I have a simple fix for the 12V/5V turn on problem, after reading this whole posting I went to Radio Shack and ask for the things I needed and they looked at me as if I was Speaking another language or something, needles to say Radio Shack has become not much more then a cell phone kiosk today. So I came up with something that worked Perfectly, if you are a little afraid of soldering things together and finding heatsinks and all of that, Just go buy a cell phone car charger that is for a 4.5 Volt DC phone and do this. Take the cigarette liter plug of the phone charger apart; this is normally 1 or 2 phillips screws, Hook up the 12 V + amp turn on from the head unit to the 12 V + wire that feeds the Phone charger {this will be the wire that is attached to the center post of the adapter, Go ahead and cut this wire off of the post as you will not use the post and you will want to remove it from the adapter so it cant cause a short later} Hook the Ground – wire of the adapter {this is the wire that is attached to the side contact of the lighter adapter, go ahead and cut this wire off of the side contact and remove the side contact, again because you don’t want it to cause a short later as well} to the Ground wire of the head unit, you must use both of these wires because you will only be using 4.5V + of the 12V + that the head unit provides, so the other 7.5 volts have to be siphoned off and you will need a ground to take care of that, without going in detail of how all that works. Now you are going to cut off the plug that would have gone to the phone, at this point you will have 2 wires, and they will be 4.5 Volts + and -, you only have 1 turn on wire that you need to hook up to the harness that plugs into the cars amp and this will be the + or Positive, the – or negative wire you will want to tape up as this wire will not be used, make sure you have taped or in some other way insulated all of you wires so you don’t get any shorts, ok now put the lighter adapter back together without the center and side contacts that you removed earlier, the wires that you hooked up to the 12 Volt side of the adapter can be routed threw the hole that used to hold the center post [ convenient ha ] I also taped mine up to keep the wires from moving around during the rest of my installation, and it works perfect, I get no popping on turn on and the amp works perfectly. The great thing about using this method is that you can get the adapter just about anywhere, and it has a built in heatsink already in the adapter, and there’s no soldering unless you want to solder the wires as some folks do. I have had my Pioneer in the Stang about 6 months now and the sound just blows the shaker away, My suggestion find a trash can for the shaker and put a real stereo in place, pick your favorite brand for me its Pioneer but any top of the line head unit will make all the difference in the world. I hope this helps, and if you have any questions just ask, myself or someone else will be glad to help
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RE: Upgrade Your Shaker - 
