Hey everyone, thanks for all of the great info here on the install. I never would have attmepted this on my own without the info on this forum!
With that being said, I feel obligated to share info that I couldn't find while doing my searches. So I installed my Oct '06 unit into my '06 GT Mustang.
A. Here is what I did.... 1. I soldered all my connections (never did this before but it was easier than expected) and used shrinkwrap afterwards (from home depot) as well as those tap connectors on the others.
2. Order your harness and the F150 install kit from Crutchfield! Then, you can call them up anytime for support on any part of the install using the order number that comes onn your invoice. They were extremely helpful and they're open 8am-12am est, except X-mas and thanksgiving!
3. The harness from Crutchfield has two blue/white wires (I'm pretty sure that's their color) to send power to the amp. The Z1 only has one wire. I called Crutchfield twice and on the second call I got an answer that made the most sense ands was the correct one: their harness is designed to work with a variety of Ford systems, therfore they put in two power wires, one on the top right and the other on the bottom right. Simply look at the Z1 harness and you'll see that it's power wire is on the top left. So we use the top left wire to solder together and just tape off the other wire since it's not being used.
4. The bypass works beautifully. I found in some link the tip regarding moving the cell mute wire to the other harness. I've heard of people having problems with bad connections. :idea: The tip was: use a jewler's screwdriver (or anything with a tiny tip) when initially removing the wire from the first harness. On the topside of the harness is a small piece of metal that's visible. If you gently lift that (a toothpick may even work) you can pull the wire out, including the metal connector that it's crimped to on the end. Then you slot that into the other harness on the bottom right location and it snaps right in place securely!
5. When you're all done you've grounded four wires (misc info for reference): the parking brake wire, the unit itself, the cell mute wire in it's new bypass position on the 2nd harness, and the middle leg wire of the 5v regulator (see #7 below on this). Plus to find a spot to ground it to I drilled a small hole into the metal fram that sopports the whole dashbord directly behind the Z1 unit. I used those crimp style connectors with the O-shaped piece of metal on it to make sure they weren't going anywhere. Then I used a small screw to attach them to the frame. (I do have a small buzz when I press a button, I tried grounding the head unit separtately and it made no difference. It's minimal so I'll leave it for now.)
6. VVS, Reverse Wire, and Dimmer wire (ILL I believe): 1. Crutchfield was very helpful here: The VVS wire goes to through the firewall and to the main computer at the front right of the car (if you're sitting in the driver's seat, the front right corner). Attached to the main computer are three chunky black plugs with grey "handles", you want the top one fortunately. Pull back on the grey handle and it'll come undone. This is a 50 pin plug and you want pin 3, the dark blue/yellow stripe to tap into. To get to them gently raise the four black tabs that hold the cover over the harness and pull it off.
ALSO, along the passenger side firewall is a rubber something or other, about 3" in diameter. I saw that the stereo shop went through here to install my alarm. I went into the engine compartment, took out the battery, unscrewed the three bolts that hold down the tray, and moved it to the side (something else is attached to it so I just moved it out of my way) Then I went back inside the car, used a wire coat hanger and wrapped the end around the end og my pink wire. And used that to push it through the opening into the engine bay. Go to the engine bay, you won't see the wire but you'll need to reach your hand down and behind the metal to find where it came through, and you've got it.
Reverse wire: Crutchfield said it is in the passenger kick panel, and it's on a 52 pin plug, pin 13, a white /yellow striped wire. I couldn't find this for the life of me. There is a 50 pin plug kind hidden, I think it's blue while everything else is black. But I couldn't remove the cover to see what was in pin 13 slot. I didn't even see a white/yellow wire... I did remove the doorsill kick panel to see what wires were running back for the taillights and saw several white/yellow wires, checked my trunk and also saw the white/yellow wire. So back in the front of the car I tapped into one of these.... and it doesn't look like it works. I'll try again later, doesn't seem to affect me so far. :lol:
Dimmer switch: I thought I read somewhere that for the '06 models you couldn't simply hook up the dimmer switch from the Avic to the dimmer wire in the crutchfield harness cause that wasn't working any longer. The known fix was going to the headlight switch. So I disassembled the panel, unplugged the two switches, looked and took my best guess and tapped into the Yellow/Green wire on the top corner of the plug. AND it worked! So tap into that one on the main switch, not the switch that goes to the brightness dial.
7. Going back to the sub-harness and the regulator fix: Buy that piece from Radio Shack (+5 Fixed-Voltage Regulator #7805). It has three legs to it so solder three 2-in wires to each and shrink wrap the part closest to the black main piece. Then with the regulator sitting flat on it's back and the three legs facing you, solder the blue wire from the Z1 harness to the IN leg left most leg), then solder the blue wire from the top position of the Crutchfield harness to the OUT leg (right most leg), then solder a 2-foot or so wire to the middle leg so you can ground it. It works!
:?: B. I have two outstanding issues with my install: 1. My radio reception is almost non-existant. It gets two channels only. It is pluggged in all the way, and I also confirmed that the additional connection that runs behind and under the glove box is tightly connected. Suggestions? With my stock setup I used one of those shorty antennas and it worked perfectly. I'm thinking I should try the stock antenna and see if that makes a difference... :roll:
2. I missed the reverse wire and apparenlty chose the wrong wire to tap into since the diagnosic settings doesn't recognize when I put it into reverse. Detailed suggestions?
I cant' thank eveyone enough!
LM :D
< Message edited by Myy06 -- 1/13/2007 1:40:14 PM >
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'06 Screaming Yellow GT Coupe - Hurst shifter, JLT CAI - Bamachips race tune, Magnaflow exhaust, BBK twin-throttle body, 4.10 gears, aluminum driveshaft, Rouch UD pullies, Avic-Z1 Head unit, 10" Alpine Sub, Sony amp!
i have this unit and was wondering if anyone got the camera for it....if so how much was it...and did you install it in the front or back? i want to install mine in the grille and then hook my video camera up to the video outs ont heback and record some driving......btw i love this tuner....my sattelite and gps nav antennas are mounted on the inside of the drivers side window....works great... i got siruis (stern rulez....baba booey baba booey babba booey) and the blue tooth....i highly reccommend this unit to anyone with an s197...i love it.... any help on the above inquiries would be great,.....
< Message edited by phunnyguy -- 1/13/2007 3:47:36 PM >
I'm going to be installing my Z1 today after losing my blob with my 2 month old kenwood 7100 unit [for the last time] (another story and one I won't bore you with).
Anyway, reading through this thread has been awesome, some great tips and fixes, thanks all. My question though, is this. What does the the VSS line actually do for me or the AVIC unit anyway? I may be missing the point, but the unit has GPS which measures speed (d'uh) so why does the Vehicle Speed Signal have any input? Surely it can't be merely to let the unit know I'm going backward? What would happen if I left it unattached?
Marcus
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www.mkeeler.com/mustang/ Minority group member - Got three pedals and I like going round corners
So, the Z1 is installed. I went to a local audio shop where they fitted it and didn't mind me standing over them waving the printouts I'd made containing the info I'd gotten here.
I did have the VSS line installed, for whatever it's worth. One of the installers thought he knew best and picked up the headlight cable in the passenger kick panel area [?], which did not work out. So they relocated it to the switch, which I'd originally requested anyway
For me, the headlamp flash trick works, so I'm relieved about that.
I have spent the last hour or so setting it up and I really like it a lot, about 10000% better than the kenwood 7100 "Turd special" I have been using LOL
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www.mkeeler.com/mustang/ Minority group member - Got three pedals and I like going round corners
I lucked in big time. I found a local electronics store was ceasing to sell Pioneer stuff, they had Pioneer stuff on sale all over the floor. I asked about the Z1, they had one only, the one on display. It was in perfect condition and had all the bits, they wanted $1100 [Canadian] for it. I imagine they got their lines crossed between it and the D3 next to it, so I immediately agreed and they removed it for me there and then. I jogged out the store with it before they called me back LOL
Audio shop ran me $100 for the install.
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www.mkeeler.com/mustang/ Minority group member - Got three pedals and I like going round corners
Ok, I've got some questions for you guys who did this install...
I'm going to do an install with a JVC KW-XG700, which, while not a DVD/Nav unit, is going to be a similar type of install, since I'll be doing the XM and Bluetooth for my car.
When you pulled off the trim panels that go up and down on each side of the radio, do they just pry off? The last thing I want to do is pull at it and hear a crack/snap and find that I've got to shell out $$$ for a new trim piece. I know that I have to pull the console out, but it seems like there's a point where the plastic snaps in...
Also, with the XM/Sirius units (as far as I'm concerned, the add-on tuners are basically the same when it comes to mounting), where did you guys mount them? Any problems/concerns I need to be aware of when installing it in my car?
< Message edited by Sprzout -- 7/10/2007 4:18:36 PM >
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2007 Tungsten Grey Mustang GT Bone stock
1974 Chevrolet Corvette (in the process of rebuilding)
1967 Jaguar E-Type 2+2 4.2L, British Racing Green, aka The Green Penis
Yep. Just two screws holding the centre console on then, apart from a single plastic press-in clip on each kick panel (if you even need to get them off), it's all push fit.
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www.mkeeler.com/mustang/ Minority group member - Got three pedals and I like going round corners
That looks like a very nice setup. I have the Kenwood DVD/Navigation and I absolutely love it. The navigation feature is much easier to use than the factory nav and much more reliable. I have my iPod hooked up in the glovebox at all times where the music relays very clearly and you can skip through the songs pretty fast. My fave feature of that is that it shows all the album artwork! The DVD feature I play while moving all the time. Not sure if I have a toggle switch or not, but I had it professionally installed and the guys hooked me up. There was a bluetooth feature which I did not get, but it sounded like a nice feature to have. It was another $200...so I didn't opt for it. Would have been nice, especially since my cars a 5-speed.
Overall I really recommend this unit--I haven't had any problems with it.
Sorry if the pictures of the stereo are not clear as those where taken w/ a camera phone!!! :)
To be fair, there was a 4 week delivery time on the 7100 when I ordered it so I took the 7019 with the G510 NAv unit. Kenwood themselves told the installer that the pairing was perfect, they were essentially designed to compliment each other. Installation for the guys was a cinch, two bus cables joined the two and all seemed fine. Unfortunately, after some time with the unit I went back to them thinking I was a retard or something as the NAV function was greyed out on the 'front door'. They were real good about it. We goofed with it for over an hour without success and they offered a swap out which I declined in lieu of more research. Turns out that there's a software bug which basically means the function selection screen doesn't see the NAV unit although you can get to it by cycling through the video/audio feeds. When I had the NAV unit up it was fine, I am a great fan of Garmin software anyway. I had the iPOD Video cable on it also which worked nicely.
Cons - Unable to get to NAV screens without fumbling with source selections - HUGE - MEGA - HUMUNGOUS Pop on Amp startup. Voltage regulator in amp line didn't help at all - Massive amount of spagetti cabling on the rear of the unit was unsettling - Flying leads for external inputs/outputs too short, would just reach into the glove box although they usually fell out when glove box was opened
Pros - Extensive audio setup options. Sound output very nice (Pioneer better) - Tilt screen is a very nice touch - Garmin module contains all software with SD slot for updates. Nice touch.
So, what did I do with the Kenwood? Trash Can? Ebay? No, going to install it in the wife's Golf tomorrow LOL
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www.mkeeler.com/mustang/ Minority group member - Got three pedals and I like going round corners
Posts: 11184
Joined: 9/16/2006 From: Fishers, IN Status: online
quote:
ORIGINAL: marcuskeeler
So, the Z1 is installed. I went to a local audio shop where they fitted it and didn't mind me standing over them waving the printouts I'd made containing the info I'd gotten here.
I did have the VSS line installed, for whatever it's worth. One of the installers thought he knew best and picked up the headlight cable in the passenger kick panel area [?], which did not work out. So they relocated it to the switch, which I'd originally requested anyway
For me, the headlamp flash trick works, so I'm relieved about that.
I have spent the last hour or so setting it up and I really like it a lot, about 10000% better than the kenwood 7100 "Turd special" I have been using LOL
Why do this for the bypass when you have the 2 wire bypass available...much easily and doesnt require any work at all.
To be honest the whole VSS thing had me somewhat confused. Although, as you say, that would seem to be the case, other people (on this thread included) seem to be making huge efforts to get it connected despite having already worked the bypass as I have. I was merely covering the possibility that the VSS had other uses including maybe the dynamics facility. I've specifically asked others what the VSS gives the AVIC other than the knowledge of when to clamp down the options whilst moving but nobody has an answer, including my installer who also called another shop who he knew specialized in Pioneer (They install the VSS & activate the bypass as a matter of course). There was an idea that the speed sensor told the AVIC that the car motion was to be disregarded whilst in reverse although a) Who cares about that anyway b) The VSS signal is merely positive pulses on a 0v baseline, forward/reverse, it doesn't know either.
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www.mkeeler.com/mustang/ Minority group member - Got three pedals and I like going round corners
The VSS line is used to more accurately determine your location, and does not have anything to do with disabling the menu options in motion. The menu options are controlled by accelerometers in the AVIC itself. This is necessary since not all vehicles output a VSS signal (aka older vehicles), and the unit can potentially be installed on such a vehicle. The unit correlates the motion it recieves from the satellite with the VSS signal and makes "corrections" to your position so that it can accurately predict how far you are from upcoming turns.
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2006 Premium V6 Vista Blue Mustang, Pony Package, AVIC-Z1, Shaker 500 speakers, Light Graphite Leather Seats, Flowmaster American Thunder Exhaust, Steeda CAI, Brenspeed 93 Tune
With respect, I have to disagree with you on the VSS function. The VSS will never be as accurate or consistent as GPS, it would be an utter waste of time trying to correlate the two. Think of tire wear for example, the rolling circumference of the tire between new and old will be [over miles] vastly different.
Other than that, the unit functions perfectly well without the VSS attached, as others have proven.
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www.mkeeler.com/mustang/ Minority group member - Got three pedals and I like going round corners
Posts: 11184
Joined: 9/16/2006 From: Fishers, IN Status: online
quote:
ORIGINAL: marcuskeeler
With respect, I have to disagree with you on the VSS function. The VSS will never be as accurate or consistent as GPS, it would be an utter waste of time trying to correlate the two. Think of tire wear for example, the rolling circumference of the tire between new and old will be [over miles] vastly different.
Other than that, the unit functions perfectly well without the VSS attached, as others have proven.
Nope it does use the vss also. What happens if you loose the GPS signal or it is to weak....is has the VSS to help out. Check out avic411.com for more info.
Has anyone had problems with radio reception with the z1 in the Mustang 06 GT? My AM reception is really bad. I have read something about connecting the blue power antenna wire to the cars diversity antenna wire. Does the Mustang have this type setup? Thanks Greg
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2006 GT Vista Blue Premium Package, IUP, 18" Billets, Side Airbags C&L w/SCT X-Cal 2 with Brenspeed tune, Corsa Axleback, BMR Billet LCA's
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Successful Z1 Install!! '06 Mustang GT Shaker 500 Swap - 
