4eyedfreak

I have an aluminum drive shaft and my car is now capable of better times then i have in my sig, my question is my u-joint is bad in the input side of the shaft(trans/spline u-joint). Should i just buy a normal joint or is there a better one out there?

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83 GT
306CI SMALL BLOCK
11.2 @ 120.2MPH (Now gone)

Looking for new project

anthonydalrymple

I know that Autozone sells a "solid" u-joint versus the stock u-joints that are hollow(for the grease comming in through the fitting to pass through to the caps). If you drop the hammer at 6,000rpm plus like i do; they have done a great job on my car so far....

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'89 'vert, 5.0, T5, 300rwhp @ 3,500lbs..... It's a fun commuter....

4eyedfreak

hmm alright yeah thanks

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83 GT
306CI SMALL BLOCK
11.2 @ 120.2MPH (Now gone)

Looking for new project

WizardBlack

On a side note with the FRPP Aluminum Prop Shaft, does it withstand as much power as an OEM unit?


Mark

Mustang#2

Yup

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1993 Mustang GT Mods: GT 40X 58cc heads,GT 40 Upper and Lower Intake,B Cam, Roller Timing Chain,BBK Longtube headers, Flowmasters, Speed Pro F.A.S.T computer,70mm Accufab TB,30lb injectors,1.60 Rockers,Mallory Ignition,3.73 gear, much more.

gspfunk

the FRPP alum DS should be able to take more power than the stocker. Also, I think the U joints you're talking about at Autozone are Brute force. You'll need the stock size for a manual 5.0 DS. Auto is smaller.

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Mustangkiler

how much faster is it just from the lighter driveshaft?notice anything?

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No Replacement for Positive Displacement.

gspfunk

It should be one of the last mods you do...even after suspension and chassis. You won't notice any difference just changing the driveshaft....it's just less rotating mass on your drivetrain.

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Grimace5.0

Spicer u-joints are the best. AutoZone,Advanced auto u-joints=junk

ckyguy68

less rotating mass should give you more power at the wheels.

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89 5spd
Bolt ons
150 shot

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