Hiya guys,

I'm seeing a lot of people post here questions about nitrous, what it does, how it works, does it work, is it safe, how to install, what to buy, etc, so I figured I would type this up for everyone who has questions (and hopefully I'll get stickied). Anyways, let us get started...

What exactly is Nitrous Oxide?

Nitrous Oxide, or N2O, is two parts nitrous and one part oxygen. Commonly referred to as funny gas (for it’s use as laughing gas during medical operations), the injection of nitrous oxide into an engine causes the compound to split into nitrous and oxygen, allowing for more oxygen to be used during engine combustion. With more oxygen, you can and must add more fuel, which creates an instant boost of power. Nitrous oxide is one of the cheapest and easiest ways to provide a quick gain of power to any engine.

Nitrous not only provides a large power gain, but when nitrous is injected into the intake of the vehicle, it cools the air coming into the engine. Common physics tell us, that when you cool the air, the density increases, and even more oxygen can make it to the cylinder.

Is It Safe?

Very plain and simple, with a proper tune, nitrous oxide is very safe. Nitrous oxide causes an increase in cylinder pressure, and anytime you do that, you increase the engine’s predisposition to detonation. This is why nitrous powered motors require retarded spark timing. However, nitrous is no more harmful to your engine then any other major power add-on. Too much supercharger boost, low octane fuel, excessive compression ratio, large turbo PSI, or overly lean air-fuel ratio will also cause the same kinds of damage.

The hardest thing with getting nitrous to work properly, is achieving a perfect air/fuel ratio. If you have too much oxygen and not enough fuel, it will cause the engine to “lean” out and increase your chance of detonation. Adding too much fuel will cause your engine to run rich, and will drastically reduce your power gain.

Nitrous oxide is like any other major power add-on. If you use it properly, it works just as well as a turbo or supercharger. When used stupidly, it could cause thousands of dollars in damage and a huge headache. Make sure that the kit is properly installed and that the car is professionally tuned on a Dyno.

What will it give me?

A properly used shot of nitrous will give you a 35-35% increase in power on stock engines. Anything past this is too much power for a stock engine to handle, and could cause durability issues. Take our stock GT engines, up the horsepower to 450hp and do nothing to improve durability and your engine will eventually suffer. However, any add-on will affect the engine past the 450hp mark.

What Types are there?

There are three types of nitrous systems: "Dry", "Wet", and "Direct Port".

"Dry" nitrous system

A “Dry” nitrous system utilizes one solenoid to spray the nitrous oxide into the intake. The nitrous is usually sprayed before the MAF sensor (Mass Air Flow), which tell the computer that a much cooler, denser air is coming into the engine, and allows it to compensate by adding more fuel. This is the cheapest and most ineffective nitrous method. This method is very hard to tune, and can only be used with smaller shots.

"Wet" nitrous system

A “wet” nitrous system is similar to the “dry” system, however, another solenoid is added to inject fuel into the intake to mix with the nitrous. Instead of using the MAF to compensate for the nitrous, fuel is drawn from the fuel rail and mixed with the nitrous in the intake. "Wet" nitrous systems produce more power then “dry” systems, but are more expensive and tend to be more difficult to install.

"Direct Port" nitrous system

I am not going to go to far into the specifics of the “Direct Port” system, because if your are considering installing this, you probably shouldn’t be reading this FAQ. A “direct port" nitrous system injects the nitrous/fuel mix directly into each cylinder. A “direct port” system is the most powerful and efficient type of nitrous system, and by far the most expensive. Most “direct port” systems are built and used in race applications.

How long does installation take?

To install a wet kit, you should factor a install time of 3-5 hours. Installation of most kits are very straight forward and come with step-by-step directions with specific installation drawings, wiring diagrams, and bottle mounting procedures as well as performance tips and a thorough trouble shooting guide.

So when do I get to push the button like in the movies?

You don't. Newer nitrous systems don't have Push-Button activation, but rather, are automatically controlled. All you have to do it flip the arming switch to activate the system. The system will then "spray" only at WOT (wide open throttle) and, if you have a window switch, only through certain RPM ranges.

Can you use regular gas?

Use of a premium type leaded or unleaded fuel of 93, or greater, octance is recommended for most applications. Many systems are designed for use with service station pump gas. However, when higher compression or higher horsepower levels are used, a racing fuel of 100 octane, or more, must be used.

What nitrous kit should I get?

First of all, I would NOT recommend the Dynotune kit. I had 3 solenoids fail on me before I finally gave up, so its not a well built kit. With Nitrous, it truely is, you get what you pay for. Don't look for cheap kits. Now, with that being said, N/X and Zex are both very good kits. The only real difference between them is the way the solenoids are. The Zex kit contains a box with the solenoids, so nothing is really exposed. Its a MUCH cleaner looking kit, and intalls MUCH quicker (you don't need to pay your tuner to install it, you can do it yourself). Also, the good thing about the Zex kit is the integrated TPS. This way your activation is always at WOT, I don't think the N/X kit comes with that.

Overall, I would suggest the ZEX kit, especially if your are doing the install on your own. However, seeing as there is no major difference, if your installer likes working from N/X, then it probably would be smarter to get that (since they know it better).

How much will the wet shot kit cost me?

Alright, lets do some number crunching... (This is just an estimate of different parts you need)

Hardware

05-06 Mustang GT Nitrous System - $489
This includes a 10lb bottle with high flow valve, 4AN stainless bottle nut & Teflon washer, stainless quick connect Bottle brackets and hardware, 16 foot braided stainless feed line, high Flow Nitrous and Fuel solenoids, solenoid mounting bracket, 2 foot Braided stainless Nitrous and Fuel feed lines, braided stainless line for Fuel rail test port installation, jets for 75, 100 and 150HP, high flow Wet Nozzle "Chrome", Wet Nozzle Mounting adaptor so the Nozzle does not blow out during injection causing a fire, lighted arming switch, relay, wire and wire harness, fuse, crimp terminals etc, micro throttle activation switch and mounting bracket and a 22 page Nitrous installation and tuning book.

Accessories

Bottle Opener - $219
Billet Aluminum Remote Bottle Valve Opener with Handle. Show quality. Quick release head with built in Valve Knob. This will prevent you from having to go to your trunk everytime to open the bottle.

Bottle Heater - $139
This is a rubbery strap that gets wrapped around your bottle to heat it up and increase the pressure in the bottle, which will actually affect performance quite a bit, especially if you live in colder regions where your bottle pressure will be too low and you will yield much less results. They come with an automatic pressure se

Updated...

entirely too much time on your hands but thanks for the info.

damn! ... nice write up
, keep in mind. In some states it is illigal to have the bottle open on public roads. I don't know if the bottle opener is street legal

ORIGINAL: jet22

damn! ... nice write up
, keep in mind. In some states it is illigal to have the bottle open on public roads. I don't know if the bottle opener is street legal


If I recall correctly, CA is the only state where this is illegal (to keep the bottle open or to purge). I'll look it up tonight when I get home. Thanks for the question, I'll add it to the FAQ shortly.

~Fred

wow, how considerate of u...thanks for the people who ask and havnt thanked u yet

ORIGINAL: Remrats1234

wow, how considerate of u...thanks for the people who ask and havnt thanked u yet


Your welcome. :-) In the process of writing one for gears.

4 Q and As added

Is Nitrous Oxide illegal?
Where is the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) wire?
Where can I get a Tach signal for my window switch?
Can I use platinum plugs with nitrous injection?

dude you are cool... I recomend this as a sticky

ORIGINAL: jet22

dude you are cool... I recomend this as a sticky



Thanks! Your cool too. ;)

Added 3 more questions. I'll put up a picture install guide tomorrow when I pull them off my digital camera.

How did you get the bottle to mount in the trunk?
Do I have to drill a hole to run the nitrous line from my bottle out of my trunk?
What shot is safe for our cars?

~Fred

Awesome write up! I found a few things I hadn't thought about (ie. switching tunes on the fly).

ORIGINAL: jet22

dude you are cool... I recomend this as a sticky


Yes, well, if you guys would go out of this section you would see we have a Pipe/Boost/Juice section that has a ton of info, including a FAQ.:eek:

ORIGINAL: JD1969
Yes, well, if you guys would go out of this section you would see we have a Pipe/Boost/Juice section that has a ton of info, including a FAQ.:eek:


Well, this FAQ, if you haven't read it (which I am assuming you haven't), is specific for the 05/06 Stangs. THats why it is in this section and not the pipes and boost section.

~Fred

ORIGINAL: FredTT

ORIGINAL: JD1969
Yes, well, if you guys would go out of this section you would see we have a Pipe/Boost/Juice section that has a ton of info, including a FAQ.:eek:


Well, this FAQ, if you haven't read it (which I am assuming you haven't), is specific for the 05/06 Stangs. THats why it is in this section and not the pipes and boost section.

~Fred

It does'nt really matter, you guys need to start putting stuff in the proper sections. Yea I know it's for the 05/06 cars but that is only a minor differance.

Updated...

"Can I leave the bottle open?"

~Fred

FredTT - That was an excelent writeup. Just one thing I would like to point out. "you can also inject more fuel". Should read "you MUST inject more fuel" Not injecting more fuel will create a lean condition when using the nitrous. I have seen many destroyed engines using nitrous when the selonoid that injects the extra fuel has failed.

Nice catch. I know there are a few typo's in there. :D

Hopefully this will answer alot of questions (and stop so many repetitive threads.)

~Fred

this is good info Fred. I remember you sending it to me before. I'm sorry I didn't get back to you on it. The problem with making it a sticky is that some it seems to be copied from somewhere else.....I googled "When you heat nitrous oxide to about 570 degrees F" and got the exact paragraph you have word for word from another site.....which is not a problem, research is research, and we are cool with that. I cut and paste alot of info instead of typing it all out myself. I'm not asking you to change either. It's great info and you have obviously done alot of hard work compiling it. Thanks. However, due to legal stuff that I don't fully understand, all stickies must be author/mustangforums originals.

Soooooo, if you were to put a few things in your own words, I'm sure we could stick it to the top. ;)

Re-Written.

Added:
How long will the bottle last?
Will I loose traction if I hit it at WOT?

~Fred

New Questions Added:

Can I use medical grade Nitrous?
What happens if the bottle is cold?
Should my solenoids have these filters on them? What if they don't have any?
Can I purify auto grade Nitrous? (I actually got this in a couple PMs...)

cool, I have been wondering the difference between a wet/dry shot...

How much is it to fill a 10lbs bottle?

ORIGINAL: KTownGT

cool, I have been wondering the difference between a wet/dry shot...

How much is it to fill a 10lbs bottle?


Good question. Most shops (at least around my area) charge $3 per pound. So, roughly $30 plus tax.

~Fred

ORIGINAL: FredTT

ORIGINAL: KTownGT

cool, I have been wondering the difference between a wet/dry shot...

How much is it to fill a 10lbs bottle?


Good question. Most shops (at least around my area) charge $3 per pound. So, roughly $30 plus tax.

~Fred


Ouch, too rich for my blood [:@][8D]

Do you know if there will be any timing-retards coming out?

ORIGINAL: FredTT

Your welcome. :-) In the process of writing one for gears.



That would be great! Nice nitrous writeup!

ORIGINAL: KTownGT

Do you know if there will be any timing-retards coming out?



Yes, we have to retard the timing when we use nitrous. The reason is because the oxygen becomes more dense, and that cause the A/F mix to burn quicker. That cause the peak cylinder pressure to happen alot closer to TDC. Because of that, not all energy created by the combustion is used to power the piston, but instead is it transfered to the rotating assembly, possible damaging it over time. So, to stop all of that from happining, you need to retard you timeing roughly 2-1/2 degrees for every 75 hp added.

~Fred

ORIGINAL: Black06stang

ORIGINAL: FredTT

Your welcome. :-) In the process of writing one for gears.



That would be great! Nice nitrous writeup!


Thanks! I forgot about the gear writeup, i'll work on that today.

Two questions Added:

How much does it cost to fill a bottle?
Will there be any timing-retards coming out?

~Fred

Hey Fred, what kits do you prefer?

I personally was liking the Zex Kit, and was checking out different things about it etc. But at HPP (My Tuner), they really prefer Nitrous Express (N/X). I just found out that the main N/X place is located in Wichita Falls, Texas. Which is actually only 2 hours away from me. So, I decided to look into them, I've heard great things from them, and have been recommended to check them out if I go Nitrous. You spoke of Dynotune? I'm not to familiar with them. Though all in all, you seem very knowledgeable about Nitrous, so what do you think about the N/X Kits, I mean the solenoids on their's seem soooo much reassuring than other kits like Zex, NOS, etc. I appreciate your info man, it's really helped me out.

- Justin

http://www.mustangforums.com/m_2196528/tm.htm

Thought I might throw this in there. I haven't heard much follow-up on this but there might be a way to run a street tune and N2O at the same time[sm=bounceybounce.gif]

ORIGINAL: LAK3RS

Hey Fred, what kits do you prefer?

I personally was liking the Zex Kit, and was checking out different things about it etc. But at HPP (My Tuner), they really prefer Nitrous Express (N/X). I just found out that the main N/X place is located in Wichita Falls, Texas. Which is actually only 2 hours away from me. So, I decided to look into them, I've heard great things from them, and have been recommended to check them out if I go Nitrous. You spoke of Dynotune? I'm not to familiar with them. Though all in all, you seem very knowledgeable about Nitrous, so what do you think about the N/X Kits, I mean the solenoids on their's seem soooo much reassuring than other kits like Zex, NOS, etc. I appreciate your info man, it's really helped me out.

- Justin



This is a question that goes back and forth between MANY people. First of all, I would NOT recommend the Dynotune kit. I had 3 solenoids fail on me before I finally gave up, so its not a well built kit. I was actually going to update the FAQ today.

With Nitrous, it truely is, you get what you pay for. Don't look for cheap kits. Now, with that being said, N/X and Zex are both very good kits. The only real difference between them is the way the solenoids are. The Zex kit contains a box with the solenoids, so nothing is really exposed. Its a MUCH cleaner looking kit, and intalls MUCH quicker (you don't need to pay your tuner to install it, you can do it yourself). Also, the good thing about the Zex kit is the integrated TPS. This way your activation is always at WOT, I don't think the N/X kit comes with that.

Overall, I would suggest the ZEX kit, especially if your are doing the install on your own. However, seeing as there is no major difference, if your installer likes working from N/X, then it probably would be smarted to get that (since the know it better).

Let me know if you have any more questions!

~Fred

Great write up, answered alot of questions.

Thank you

ORIGINAL: vack75

Great write up, answered alot of questions.

Thank you



Thanks!

Updated:
What nitrous kit should I buy?
Added: CrazyAl's solution to the tuning problem

~Fred

Thanks man.

But me....questions....what are you talking about..LoL. Well here it goes.

I'm thinking either Zex or N/X. One of the two. Now I do know it's gonna be a while before I do this, but it's what I think will truly best suit my performance needs for my car.

First off, before I even THINK of going Nitrous, I'ma finish up my FULL N/A Engine. That means even the usless BBK TB, Steeda Spacer, but the not soo useless Mezeire Water Pump, Battery Relocation w/new Battery, Cams ( Comp F4.6 3V Modular XE261H-15.5 Cam Set) etc. Of course ARH 1-3/4" LT's w/ X Pipe, maybe Exhaust cutouts...I dunno yet. PH Aluminum DS, PI Torque Converter (3000-3200 Stall), Fuel Pumps (GT40), Fuel Rails (Metco), Injectors. Full Suspension, Brakes, Wheels/Tires, and thats about it.
.
I'm really sorry man, I just kinda wanted you to get a picture of everything.

Now here comes the Nitrous....

Now like I said, either N/X or Zex. So lets see what I need first.

- Nitrous Kit
- Bottle Pressure Gauge
- Bottle Heater
- Purge Kit
- Blowdown Kit
- Window Switch (For RPM's)
- Remote Bottle Opener (Extra)
- HTO Plugs
- Extra Bottle w/ Gauge, Heater, Blowdown, etc. (Extras as well) If expenses permit of course.

For me I wanna go ahead and throw on some gauges for precaution, as well as safety measures.

- SOS Triple Gauge Pillar
- Gauge 1 (Autometer Nitrous Pressure)
- Gauge 2 (Wide Band A/F Gauge, AEM....??)
- Gauge 3 (Autometer Fuel Pressure Gauge....??)

Well of course a control center...

- SOS Switch Panel Cupholder w/ 4 Switches
- Switch 1 (N20 ARM)
- Switch 2 (N20 PURGE)
- Switch 3 (LINE LOCK)
- Switch 4 (Not sure yet)

Well, as you can tell I've done quite a bit of research. But I'm not fully knowledgeable on the matter. So when it comes down to it, after you seeing what I have, and am planing on doing.

Which kit?
Am I missing anything?
What about that third gauge?
What TCS Window Switch should I go with?

Now, the Zex kit is around $550, and you can get the Racer Tuner Kit for $391.21 which includes bottle heater, blowdown kit, and purge kit, o yeah and the bottle gauge. That leaves me with the TCS Switch, and Remote Bottle Opener, then of course my extra stuff. So right now the Zex kit is sounding pretty sweet. Though, do I have to use their brand Window Switch? It's soooo expensive.

Now I'ma look into N/X a little bit more, but since the Zex it soo easy to install, might get it of course. Though N/X is very tempting since they are right by me.

Sorry if I went on too much, and elaborated in the subject. I'm just trying to find out all the info possible on this. Thanks man

- Justin (Yes, I spent a bazilllion hours typing this)

Haha, ok, so lets see what I can do here...

First off, thats a very impressive list of modifications. Looks like you know what you want. So let me ask you, why Nitrous? I'm pretty good with nitrous, but if your serious about power, a supercharger/turbo would be a much better way to go, and not only that, it would end up costing you less in the long run. However, if you want to do nitrous, here is what I suggest for your setup.

Zex Kit - $550
"Racer Kit" Bottle Heater. Purge Kit, Bottle Pressure Gauge, Blowdown Tube - $400
Bottle Heaters doesn't have to be from Zex. In fact, there are some cheaper ones out there that regulate the temperature automatically, which is easier.
Remote Opener - $300
TCS/RPM Switch - $150
I know its expensive, but remember, YGWYPF. Go with the Zex, better then having a different one fail on you.
HT0 Plugs - $100
FUEL PRESSURE SAFETY SWITCH - $40
THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT (hence the caps). You did not have this on your list. This is a switch that gets tapped into the fuel lines, and will save your engine if the fuel pump dies. This is to prevent grossly lean situations which WILL cause detonation. Very good safety device for the money. YOU NEED THIS!

For a Dual Bottle Setup:
Extra Bottle Plus Joints - $260
Extra Bottle Heater - $150
Extra Remote Opener - $300

Total for single bottle: $1450
Total for dual bottle: $2160
(Thats without the tune and the pizza/beer for the install :D)

For your gauges,
Gauge 1 should be your Fuel Pressue Gauge (this is the most important one).
Gauge 2 should be a good Wideband gauge (AEM is a good brand). Don't waste your money on narrow band stuff
Gauge 3 is up to you. Its a close call between nitrous pressure and oil pressure. You should know about nitrous pressure, especially by feel on the car (you will know when your running low), oil pressure is a little harder to tell.

For your switchs, I would recommend going in order...
Bottle Opener
Zex Arm
Zex Purge
Line Lock

I know their window switch is expensive, but its built to work with their kit, and it would be a good idea not to mix and match parts. The only parts you don't have to buy from them is the FPSS and the stuff in the "Racer kit" (although I would get a purge solenoid from them so that the colors on the kits match.)

Even though N/X is close to you, it would be cheaper to get their stuff from the net. Overall, for what your looking for, I think Zex is a good solution.

I think I answered all of your questions, if I missed something, let me know.

~Fred

First off, I'd like to say THANKS.

Yes, you answered it all perfectly, could ya give me some sites on the Fuel Pressure Safety Switch though.

Now, I honestly want 325+ through my AUTO w/4.10's and Torque Converter I might add. I do not want a TC or SC, as I just want the "Extra" Power when wanted, not all the time. Another thing is that if I ever threw on a KB S/C or PH Turbo (My choices) I would want a FULLY BUILT MOTOR TO HANDLE IT, and a coupe...LoL.

I know that by the end of summer I'll have everything done except the Nitrous. So it's still a ways away. I'm just very cautious over everything I do to my car, and I tend to ask A LOT of questions.

BTW, I love your sig. I actually have Excel Spreadsheets for all my parts, as well as "Stages" that you put as "Phases". I've finished up my basics and a little Exterior. I really apprexiate it manm thanks..

- Justin

ORIGINAL: LAK3RS
First off, I'd like to say THANKS.


Your more then welcome. :) I'm glad to help.

ORIGINAL: LAK3RS
Yes, you answered it all perfectly, could ya give me some sites on the Fuel Pressure Safety Switch though.


Summit Racing has alot of options...
http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch.asp?N=700+400047+115+301167&autoview=sku

ORIGINAL: LAK3RS
BTW, I love your sig. I actually have Excel Spreadsheets for all my parts, as well as "Stages" that you put as "Phases". I've finished up my basics and a little Exterior. I really apprexiate it manm thanks..


Haha, I have the same thing. Excel Spreadsheets, with "Phases", and everything. I have every part I want to buy, type and brand, and where to get it, plus a projected price. So much to go...

Let me know if you have any other questions. If your ever in San Antonio, you can buy me lunch. :D

~Fred

You live in SA huh......I hate the Spurs......GO MAVS!!!!....LoL

But yeah, I might just take your "my" offer up on lunch sometime.....

BTW, you should come up to Ennis here in a little while when they open back up....[sm=nxsmile.gif] or Zex!!!!!!!!......probably not ne time soon though.

Anyone know if anyone has gotten a Nitrous kit that's a "hidden" kit, like the NOS "Sneeky Pete" kit? I've looked at that one, but that kit will only work with carbureted engines, so it's not gonna fly with my '07...I want to have something that's not visible when you first look, and doesn't require a huge bottle that's going to take up enormous amounts of trunk space. And I want something that I'd LIKE to think I could reverse, without having to buy a brand new intake manifold, because I had to drill holes or anything like that...

Maybe I just am wishing & hoping for something that doesn't really exist...

very nice post, saving this one for easy accesss on my comp.

ORIGINAL: Sprzout

Anyone know if anyone has gotten a Nitrous kit that's a "hidden" kit, like the NOS "Sneeky Pete" kit? I've looked at that one, but that kit will only work with carbureted engines, so it's not gonna fly with my '07...I want to have something that's not visible when you first look, and doesn't require a huge bottle that's going to take up enormous amounts of trunk space. And I want something that I'd LIKE to think I could reverse, without having to buy a brand new intake manifold, because I had to drill holes or anything like that...

Maybe I just am wishing & hoping for something that doesn't really exist...



Zex Kit for you man!!!!!! Zex Kit for you!!!!!!!!!! www.zex.com or www.brenspeed.com

It's a very sneaky kit actually, nothing like the NOS kit your talking of though. But the bottle on the Zex Kit will be in the trunk, but that could be customized to be placed in your spare tire/jack area??? Check it out man. Look at different pics of the Zex kit.....it's very smooth and clean under the hood.

You should also put about downshifting with the nitrous activated, missing gears and not power shifting if you are on nitrous. -.-.

Andrew

PS: wow you guys get nitrious hella cheap. It costs around $7 a lb here, anyway I can import a 1000lb tank -.-

ORIGINAL: Sprzout

Anyone know if anyone has gotten a Nitrous kit that's a "hidden" kit, like the NOS "Sneeky Pete" kit? I've looked at that one, but that kit will only work with carbureted engines, so it's not gonna fly with my '07...I want to have something that's not visible when you first look, and doesn't require a huge bottle that's going to take up enormous amounts of trunk space. And I want something that I'd LIKE to think I could reverse, without having to buy a brand new intake manifold, because I had to drill holes or anything like that...

Maybe I just am wishing & hoping for something that doesn't really exist...



If your looking for a small kit, (i wouldn't reccomend it because you'd have to get the bottle filled every single time you run), look at the Venom VCN-500 Recluse kit. I think thats the name. It can easily be hidden, and has a very small bottle that can be mounted almost anywhere.

As for drilling holes in your intake manifold, you don't have to do that, you drill one in the intake it's self. If you want to take it off, its nothing a little duct tape couldn't fix.

~Fred

ORIGINAL: androdz

You should also put about downshifting with the nitrous activated, missing gears and not power shifting if you are on nitrous. -.-.

Andrew

PS: wow you guys get nitrious hella cheap. It costs around $7 a lb here, anyway I can import a 1000lb tank -.-



Avoid granny shifting and make sure to double clutch as if you were shifting a non-synchro transmission out of a semi from 1954. Double clutching is used by speed-racers when downshifting; foot off the gas, mash clutch, put tranny in neutral, let off clutch, mash clutch, blip the gas, put tranny one gear lower than before, punch the NOS button and mash the accelerator. Sounds easy, doesn't it? Remember, if you do it right the transmission will make cool grinding sounds. Grinding adds power through weight reduction; the less material on the gear or synchro, the faster it spins! :D

Ok, so ignore that....

What about downshifting or power shifting while driving?

Think about it, when you downshift normally when your driving, what happens? An insane amount of torque as you move into the Powerband. Now add an extra instantaneous 100 torque and 100 hp to that downshift, what happens? Your going to break traction and fly into a pole. Nitrous is made to be used as you increase RPMs. This stops you from going crazy. But if you engage nitrous, and from crusing in 5th you pop it into 3rd, you are asking for trouble.

Powershifting is a big NO NO with nitrous. If you do not left off the gas, the the engine RPMs will spike to fuel cut off. If your running a dry kit, your engine will the full of N20 and no fuel, which will cause a grossly lean situation. If your runnign a wet kit, its not as bad because your still supplying fuel with the nitrous. However, the engine is not getting enough ans as you reach your approch the max RPM, the PCM can't stop your engine RPM because nitrous will still be spraying. This can cause spun bearings, thrown rods, etc.

What if I miss a gear?

Well then your screwed. Immediatly take your foot off the gas. Do not leave the car at WOT, if you do, you won't be able to stop your engine from over-revving and doing damage. When you finally get the gear, ease back onto WOT, don't quickly go there, or you will lose traction.

As far as the tuning...

I have an SCT XcalII and I know when I do my kit I will need to switch tunes at the track. Can I just take my tune and modify it by 4 deg across the entire rpm range before my run to spray a 100 shot, or do I have to take it to a tuner. I really hate to go to a tuner since it's a 3 hour drive away. I would much rather be able to ajust my tune by myself, but if I dont have that enough controll with my sct, I guess I'll have to get a tune.

I know I can adjust spark timing, but will that be enough?

I want to say yes, but I don't think so. It wouldn't be safe, expecially over 75. The whole point of a tuner is to monitor your A/F ratio. If you have a wideband gauge in your car, then you can do that, and make sure it doesn't lean out. A tuner will be able to squeeze the most power out of your nitrous (especially a good one) and is well worth the drive. If you don't want to get it tuned, and your running a 100 shot, retard it 4 degress, AND listen for knocking or any strange sound. If you hear anything weird, stop and take it to the tuner.

~Fred

Just FYI when double clutching you should blip the gas when the transmission is in neutral and the clutch is out

Haha, What does that have to do with nitrous?

~Fred

wow! very impressive. thanks for the info i hope u are just an extreme gear head cause im guessing thats about a full day or twosworth of research and aint just that bored.

Forums are about talking and learning from each other and asking questions. If everyone were like you than nothing would get accomplished on this site (or taught). By the way and off that topic...the write up was great and I learned a few things that I never knew about NOS. I know how to use it in the hospital but never had installed into the car! Thanks JORIGINAL: Rkbarnes82

entirely too much time on your hands but thanks for the info.

Hey guys, anybody have a picture of their Fuel Pressure Safety Switch installed?
Thanks!

Are the gap on the H20's preset or should I checkem?

Yes, they are pre-gapped.

~Fred

very helpful freddy

ORIGINAL: FredTT

ORIGINAL: androdz

You should also put about downshifting with the nitrous activated, missing gears and not power shifting if you are on nitrous. -.-.

Andrew

PS: wow you guys get nitrious hella cheap. It costs around $7 a lb here, anyway I can import a 1000lb tank -.-



Avoid granny shifting and make sure to double clutch as if you were shifting a non-synchro transmission out of a semi from 1954. Double clutching is used by speed-racers when downshifting; foot off the gas, mash clutch, put tranny in neutral, let off clutch, mash clutch, blip the gas, put tranny one gear lower than before, punch the NOS button and mash the accelerator. Sounds easy, doesn't it? Remember, if you do it right the transmission will make cool grinding sounds. Grinding adds power through weight reduction; the less material on the gear or synchro, the faster it spins! :D

Ok, so ignore that....

What about downshifting or power shifting while driving?

Think about it, when you downshift normally when your driving, what happens? An insane amount of torque as you move into the Powerband. Now add an extra instantaneous 100 torque and 100 hp to that downshift, what happens? Your going to break traction and fly into a pole. Nitrous is made to be used as you increase RPMs. This stops you from going crazy. But if you engage nitrous, and from crusing in 5th you pop it into 3rd, you are asking for trouble.

Powershifting is a big NO NO with nitrous. If you do not left off the gas, the the engine RPMs will spike to fuel cut off. If your running a dry kit, your engine will the full of N20 and no fuel, which will cause a grossly lean situation. If your runnign a wet kit, its not as bad because your still supplying fuel with the nitrous. However, the engine is not getting enough ans as you reach your approch the max RPM, the PCM can't stop your engine RPM because nitrous will still be spraying. This can cause spun bearings, thrown rods, etc.

What if I miss a gear?

Well then your screwed. Immediatly take your foot off the gas. Do not leave the car at WOT, if you do, you won't be able to stop your engine from over-revving and doing damage. When you finally get the gear, ease back onto WOT, don't quickly go there, or you will lose traction.



A 100 shot usually adds around 200lbs of torque, also on a wetkit it is bad to powershift because there is still gas going into the cylinder and with the nos which will cause the engine to over rev. ON a dry kit since there is no fuel present at the shut-off you dont over rev. Remember it is good to have ok or no fuel in the cylinder, it is death to have little little.

Andrew