anybody do this on a fox? I was under there but couldnt see the top of the pedal, theres a plate blocking everything. Im thinking I have to remove the center console
thank you for this article! i didn't even notice the problem until i happened across this write up! ty ty !
the plastic hose i used was too weak, even after i double stacked it, so i had to get a 3rd hose clamp to put in the middle, and now it is perfect. total cost to fix: $2.70 and a few mins work.
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Former UH-60 helicopter mechanic/ MED-EVAC Crewchief.
double checked my 04 throttle body position with the pedal to the floor with out the mod, butterfly is fully open . Only change to mine this mod will make is to raise the pedal. I checked it after the mod, pedal is alot higher but when pressed to WOT i'm putting all the bind on the cable . The pedal isnt touching the carpet anymore at WOT. I'll either adjust a pedal stop to save my cable from breaking or put it back like it was, no need to risk it breaking the cable with my lead foot.
I just did this on my 02 GT and used about a 5/8" long spacer held on with 1 hose clamp. I like the pedal position way better now. It took up about 3/4 of the slack in the cable if I went anymore the gas pedal seemed too high.
Excellant free mod, my pedal is now ergonomically correct.
Okay gents, go out to your junk drawer in the kitchen and get that cheap bic pen someone gave you, take it apart and use that "nylon tube". Cut it one inch, you don't need it any longer than that, cut the slit, unhook the cable at the engine to let out the slack, slide it on and clamp it. Rehook the cable at the engine and your finished, total time is about 10 minutes and cost is nothing if you use the zip ties you already have laying around. I wouldn't bother with hose clamps, I mean after all what is there to worry about the zips slipping, you've already removed the slack so there is no where for them to slip of to. Besides if your still worried use three or four of them.
Okay gents, go out to your junk drawer in the kitchen and get that cheap bic pen someone gave you, take it apart and use that "nylon tube". Cut it one inch, you don't need it any longer than that, cut the slit, unhook the cable at the engine to let out the slack, slide it on and clamp it. Rehook the cable at the engine and your finished, total time is about 10 minutes and cost is nothing if you use the zip ties you already have laying around. I wouldn't bother with hose clamps, I mean after all what is there to worry about the zips slipping, you've already removed the slack so there is no where for them to slip of to. Besides if your still worried use three or four of them.
feel like adding any pics of the engine what youre exactly talking about?
Okay gents, go out to your junk drawer in the kitchen and get that cheap bic pen someone gave you, take it apart and use that "nylon tube". Cut it one inch, you don't need it any longer than that, cut the slit, unhook the cable at the engine to let out the slack, slide it on and clamp it. Rehook the cable at the engine and your finished, total time is about 10 minutes and cost is nothing if you use the zip ties you already have laying around. I wouldn't bother with hose clamps, I mean after all what is there to worry about the zips slipping, you've already removed the slack so there is no where for them to slip of to. Besides if your still worried use three or four of them.
feel like adding any pics of the engine what youre exactly talking about?
I did this and i guess i sort of botched the first install, it works great but i looked down there and the tubing is slipping... will fix tomorrow. I read that a clamp of some sort could be used instead of a spacer to prevent any chance of that endcap popping off... any idea what to use?
I did it a while ago... Loved the way it drove... But I had to use zip ties cause I couldn't tighten the screws in the clamps... Not enough room... Zip ties worked... For a little while... Now it's just about back to normal... How the hell did ya'll tighten the clamps? Small hands or somethin?
I did it a while ago... Loved the way it drove... But I had to use zip ties cause I couldn't tighten the screws in the clamps... Not enough room... Zip ties worked... For a little while... Now it's just about back to normal... How the hell did ya'll tighten the clamps? Small hands or somethin?
-Cooper
The clamps have a spot for a flathead screwdriver to be used... but I didn't use the clamps either... didn't wanna mess with it in those cramped quarters. I re-did it today with some tubing that I trimmed to a smaller diameter, and with 3 zip ties it was stiff and works great... I can try to post some pics later. This place seems a little more involved than the 3.8mustang.com forums.
Posts: 93
Joined: 10/4/2007 From: Greenville, South Carolina Status: offline
This was just what the doc ordered! My biggest complaint about my car had been how "soft" the gas pedal seemed to be. I got some 3/4 fuel line at Lowe's and some ties and had it on there in about 5 minutes. There was a little over an inch of slack in mine b4 the mod. The difference was amazing. I didn't realize when I went to back it out of the driveway how much different the throttle response would be, and needless to say I found out quick!
Wow i did this to my 03 today w/o looking here first i did basically the same thing and wow what a difference does take a min to get used to the pedal placement. the 1" slack moved my pedal about 2 1\2" to 3" but it sits flush with the brake now. great for burnouts
As soon as I'm done with finals, I'm doing this. I just thought that the gas pedal was lame, never thought about fixing it. You make me so happy I just want to cry, but not really. Really great post. Thanks.
lol i must be small...but yeah dude this is an amazing improvement...and for the guy whos doesnt really get even with his brake pedal...try going back in there and do everything you did before, but pull on the throttle wire and it will actually come out a little more...atleast thats what i did with mine, and my gas pedal is a lil bit past the brake...but yes this was a great CHEAP mod...had both things just layin around...thanks Jefferson!
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soon 3:73 gears,accufab plenum and TB, flowmaster exhaust system, and pulleys
You may have not noticed, but there is a lot of slack built into your Mustang's accelerator pedal. To see how much, lift up on the accelerator pedal. You should be able to lift it by about 1 inch. For some reason, Ford made the accelerator pedal much deeper than the brake and clutch. This makes it extremely difficult if not impossible to do heel and toe driving. It also increases the odds that you are not achieving wide open throttle when you mash the pedal because the floor gets in the way.
A simple solution exists. You can take up the slack in the pedal by buying a 13 cent hollow nylon spacer - available at just about any hardware store. Also buy 2 small hose clamps. Photo of Gas Pedal linkage
How to install:
You will need a flashlight and a socket set with a screwdriver that accepts sockets on the end. You can alternatively use a large screwdriver but it is very difficult to reach with both arms under the dash while trying to tighten a hose clamp that you can barely get a hold of (watch out for cramps!!)
Unhook the throttle cable in the engine compartment by pushing the plastic throttle body linkage all the way forward then slide the cable out of its slot. This will allow the cable under the dash of your car to fall down about 8 inches where it is MUCH easier to work on.
Using a razor blade tool, cut a piece out of the side of the 1" nylon spacer. You will need to make the cut much wider at one end because the cable linkage has a metal stop attached to the end.
Fit the nylon spacer over the cable then slide both hose clamps over the spacer and tighten. It is much easier if you tighten the hose clamps so they fit almost flush over the nylon spacer before you put them on.
Tighten the hose clamps and that is it! Gas Pedal is now nearly even with the other pedals
Your accelerator pedal should now be about 1/2 inch lower than the brake pedal. Now wide open throttle does not interfere with the carpeting at all. - Dave
Note: This can also be done in other model year stangs, it was mentioned 99 - 04 because we noticed the pedal a little low.
Good call on this dude. Right after i read your post i went outside and cut some extra fuel line i had layin around and got it done in 5 minutes. its alot nicer having the pedals even. i hated that they werent even, id always get my foot snagged on the side of the brake pedal when racing.
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02 3.8L -BBK CAI -MAC Ceramac coated headers -Flowmaster Force II Dual Exhaust system- 40 Series -Iridium Plugs -HID Conversion Kit
i also used this post as a reference. im not a huge guy (about 170lbs), and getting down there is TIGHT. best thing i found to do i put your seat all the way back and recline it all the way back, so you are lying down on it with your feet up in the air, with your head by the pedals. its a tight squeeze, but this way, eveyrhting is in sight view.
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98 v6 auto vert-BBK intake and udp set, xcal2 tuned by vmp, j-mod, tranny cooler, 56mm tb, ported intake manis, intake spacer, pcv delete, ignition upgrade, mac lts, o/r h-pipe, dual force pros, front/rear tower braces, buncha visual mods. more to come!
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RE: Full Throttle - 99-04 throttle cable adjustment/fix - 
