I know a few people have put in the Steeda short shifter, but has anyone put in the Hurst one: part 3910203. It's being used on the Shelby CS6 and while it is a bit more expensive, it is a Hurst. How easy would it be to install a short shifter at home? Need to jack it up, any special tools?
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'05 Mustang V6 , Manual, Black w/ Red Leather
*Flowmaster American Thunder Axle-Back *C&L CAI w/ B@machips tunes *FRPP T-Lock *Steeda Steel Strut Tower Brace *JBA 9 mm Wires *Street Scene Grille w/ Center Fogs *SHR Rear Honeycomb Panel
I checked out the site. It's a GT install but would be the same for us. I saw the price and pulled out my credit card. Sh*t all Amazon has is the GT shifter. For 179.00 it unbeatable ! Too bad it wasn't for the V6 or they would have a sale!
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Fig 06 V6 Pony,Premium, Vista Blue Parchment Leather IUP K&N Typhoon Intake JBA True Duels GT Rear Bumper ( Take off) HURST Shifter BAMA 89 tune Gen 2 Quarter window louvers Honetcomb rear panel Stars&stripes grill pony
Yeah, I love the look of the Hurst too! And I hear it has an even shorter throw than the Tri-Ax. What my concern would be is the fact that the Steeda has stop-bolts while the Hurst does not. Do you think hard shifting on the Hurst could be potentially damaging to the tranny? I also wonder which one would make it the hardest to miss a shift (the 2-3 on the stock is a royal pain when I'm speed shifting).
Tim
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C&L CAI Bamachips XCal2 Vortex Duals Street Scene GT Grille 3dCarbon Ducktail 18" GT Fanblades Steeda Ultra Lites and more...
Don't know where or when this bolt stop business ever came from. We just put a short throw in my sons 03 Mach1 and the manufacuture recomended removing them. It may be a lot of after market places just make so many some require the bolt and some don't. Hurst is almost as old as me, if they don't use them, you don't need them. Just my 2 bucks ( cents ain't worth anything ).
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Fig 06 V6 Pony,Premium, Vista Blue Parchment Leather IUP K&N Typhoon Intake JBA True Duels GT Rear Bumper ( Take off) HURST Shifter BAMA 89 tune Gen 2 Quarter window louvers Honetcomb rear panel Stars&stripes grill pony
I checked out the site. It's a GT install but would be the same for us. I saw the price and pulled out my credit card. Sh*t all Amazon has is the GT shifter. For 179.00 it unbeatable ! Too bad it wasn't for the V6 or they would have a sale!
Pssst... Hey buddy got something for you over here in the back of my trunk.
I checked out the site. It's a GT install but would be the same for us. I saw the price and pulled out my credit card. Sh*t all Amazon has is the GT shifter. For 179.00 it unbeatable ! Too bad it wasn't for the V6 or they would have a sale!
Pssst... Hey buddy got something for you over here in the back of my trunk.
Thanks ! Credit card about jumped out of my wallet. On order !!! Can't wait.
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Fig 06 V6 Pony,Premium, Vista Blue Parchment Leather IUP K&N Typhoon Intake JBA True Duels GT Rear Bumper ( Take off) HURST Shifter BAMA 89 tune Gen 2 Quarter window louvers Honetcomb rear panel Stars&stripes grill pony
First off, the stop bolts are NOT NECESSARY! The transmission has stops built into it. Using a shifter with stop bolts not only is not necessary, but if you adjust the stops to contact the shifter (why wouldn't you??) you may actually damage your transmission because you may not be able to get it fully into a gear. If you use one with stop bolts anyways, make sure they are not contacting the shifter in any gear position. Hurst claims that they recently released a model with stop bolts because customers keep complaining about the lack of them. Don't waste your money.
You do have to get under the car. There is a 10mm bolt to remove from the front of the shifter to the x-mission, a couple of 10mm nuts to remove from the back of the shifter to the chassis, and 1 ?size nut to remove from the shifter shaft to the transmission shift rod. I think it was a 12mm. If you want, you can also remove your driveshaft, but it's not necessary. You might think it is later when you're inside the car trying to get the old shifter to fit through the shifter tunnel hole, but it will squeeze through. The Hurst went in easier than the stocker came out. The instructions say that a helper underneath will make it easier, and I belive them but I did it myself.
There is some bench work to transfer a couple of bushings from the shifter shaft (don't know why they don't provide new ones since they seem like a wear item), and then to transfer the metal sleeve from the front shifter mounting bushing. This is probably meaningless unless you've done it, but take heed here. The instructions I had (among others on this forum) mention that there is a split metal sleeve in the stock shifter mounting bushing, but my car only had one sleeve that goes all the way through the bushing, so when you tighten the bolt back up, it tightens the sleeve to the transmission. Ford made a mid-year design change here in 2005. This is important because everyone seems to put the sleeve in so that the shoulder part of the sleeve is to the right side of the shifter, probably because this is how it is used in the stock shifter. This is sensible because the bolt head will then snug up against it. The problem is that since there isn't a similar shoulder part of the sleeve on the transmission side, the shifter seems to get slightly twisted when you snug up the bolt. For some people, this resulted in a buzzing noise in the shifter under hard acceleration at various RPM. Mine had no buzz, but my shifter was very hard to put into gear. I originally thought it was just because of the short throw, but then I read about this design change issue here and thought about how the lack of this shoulder could mis-position the shifter on the tranny. So I just took mine back off last weekend, reversed the sleeve so the shoulder is now between the shifter and the transmission, and added my own washer between the outside shifter bushing and the mounting bolt. It you want to prepare for this, you need a metric washer with a 12mm hole. The OD is not too important because there is a lot of room to work with there. I didn't have a 12mm washer, so I used a 1/2" HD galvanized washer. It was a little loose around the bolt, but seems to have worked fine.
The shifting is MUCH smoother now. Ironically, I then had the buzz at about 3500 RPM when a romped on it and wasn't holding the shifter knob. The problem here was that the lower rubber boot didn't seem to want to stay in position. Apparently, this rubber boot adds enough dampening to the shifter shaft to squelch the buzz. I pushed the boot down as low as I could get it, which seems to have done the trick.
Whew...I write too much! Hope this helps.
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Ol' Blueeyes 2005 V-6 Yellow Premium 'Vert. No Shkr 1K, No Auto, No Whl locks
Thanks for the write up. My shifter should be here Monday and want to install it next Friday night. Have a ton of metric crap in work ( machine parts) so I'll dig around this week and be prepared. I plan on just using jack stands , did you have a lift ?
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Fig 06 V6 Pony,Premium, Vista Blue Parchment Leather IUP K&N Typhoon Intake JBA True Duels GT Rear Bumper ( Take off) HURST Shifter BAMA 89 tune Gen 2 Quarter window louvers Honetcomb rear panel Stars&stripes grill pony
Thanks for the write up. My shifter should be here Monday and want to install it next Friday night. Have a ton of metric crap in work ( machine parts) so I'll dig around this week and be prepared. I plan on just using jack stands , did you have a lift ?
No problem-glad to be contributing!!
I wish I had the lift. Nope, I use a floor jack and a mechanics dolly (for me to roll around on). Just lifted one side and stuck a HD jackstand in there for safety.
When I was done with the rework while cleaning up, felt a tickle on my neck and found two ticks! Ugh I hate ticks. What the f*** were ticks doing in the middle of my driveway?? Must like mustangs too!
I just went out and checked the new boot on shaft position because I actually did it in the dark on my test drive.
On that lower shifter boot, I originally slid the bottom of it down between the first and second bolts that mount the chrome shift handle to the shifter shaft. The new position is below the second bolt, basically smooshed down as far a possible. But it didn't seem to work because my boot was sitting about 1/2" above the tunnel hole all the way around. I didn't hear a buzz since the test drive, but I wasn't romping on it this week either. There is a small "under lip" that you need to get under the chassis, while a larger "over lip" stays above the chassis. Essentially you're trying to sandwich the sheet metal between the two rubber lips. But since the under lip is a lot smaller than the over lip, it doesn't stay in place. This must be due to the difference in shape between the shifters. It feels like I just got it positioned as good as I can and it's staying in place in the driveway. But I think I'm going to lightly RTV around the top of the chassis hole next anyways to glue it in place. I know that will work and I'll be done with it.
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Ol' Blueeyes 2005 V-6 Yellow Premium 'Vert. No Shkr 1K, No Auto, No Whl locks
Blueeyes, that sounds like a lot of work! I wouldn't mind putting in the hours, but I wonder if I have the know-how to do the install myself. I've never replaced a shifter before -- do you think I ought to have a mechanic do it?
How's the shifting with the Hurst? I know you said it feels smoother -- is that compared to before you fixed the sleeve problem or compared to stock? I occasionally miss 3rd (even 2nd) on the stock one -- how does the Hurst compare in that regard? Does the pathway (for lack of a better term) between gears feel more direct?
Fig, keep us posted on your install! I'm definitely excited about this mod. Just gotta get my lowering springs on first (trying desperately to stick to the rule I set for myself: don't purchase the next mod until the current one is on the car).
-Tim
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C&L CAI Bamachips XCal2 Vortex Duals Street Scene GT Grille 3dCarbon Ducktail 18" GT Fanblades Steeda Ultra Lites and more...
Blueeyes, that sounds like a lot of work! I wouldn't mind putting in the hours, but I wonder if I have the know-how to do the install myself. I've never replaced a shifter before -- do you think I ought to have a mechanic do it?
How's the shifting with the Hurst? I know you said it feels smoother -- is that compared to before you fixed the sleeve problem or compared to stock? I occasionally miss 3rd (even 2nd) on the stock one -- how does the Hurst compare in that regard? Does the pathway (for lack of a better term) between gears feel more direct?
Fig, keep us posted on your install! I'm definitely excited about this mod. Just gotta get my lowering springs on first (trying desperately to stick to the rule I set for myself: don't purchase the next mod until the current one is on the car).
-Tim
Tim- I don't know your mechanical expertice to judge if you can do it, but I would rate the difficulty a 2 out of 10. You need a couple of metric wrenches, a deep 10 mm socket with a long extension to speed up the rear mount nuts, a flat blade screwdriver, maybe some lube and a band-aid or two. It's not mechanically complicated, and the instructions were clear enough to me. You're not opening the transmission or anything. The hardest part is coaxing the stock shifter out through the hole. You have to push it as far forward and to the right as it will go, with the shifter ball housing under the chassis sheet metal. The shifter handle will be in second gear position, in contact with the edge of the hole. It's kind of obvious when you're doing it. This is to enable you to yank the rear of the shifter out of the hole. I don't know how much manufacturing variance there is in hole size, but mine didn't look like it was going to fit. Having someone under the car to help position the front of the shifter might have helped, and having them push up on the shifter definitely would have helped because leverage was tough. Doing it alone was a 1 knuckle buster. I had to kneel on the drivers seat to get the leverage to yank it out. I bent the sheet metal slightly, so it was slightly bigger than the hole in my car.
The only tool required on the bench is something to pry the sleeves out of the stock bushings. If you have to, you can lube the front mount sleeve to ease the install into the poly bushing of the Hurst (remember-from the left side sho the sleeve shoulder is between the shifter and transmission).
Total time was 45 min from jack up to test drive, including the band-aid. Rework took 10 minutes which included mic-ing the 12mm bolt and rifling through my washer variety bin.
< Message edited by Blueeyes -- 4/22/2006 1:21:45 PM >
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Ol' Blueeyes 2005 V-6 Yellow Premium 'Vert. No Shkr 1K, No Auto, No Whl locks
thanx a million blueeyes, I will be installing mine wednesday or thursday, and this will be a big help for sure. After my dual exhaust fiasco, I need all the extra help I can get
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Steeda CAI, diablo tuner, 18" Bullits, Eibach Pro-kit, dual JBA's w/ H pipe, 3.73's n t-lok www.myspace.com/hazestang
Put it in this morning. If you guys don't get a Hurst. your crazy. I love it ! Install is fairly easy. Took me more time to get all my crap togheter than the work. One thing I will add is the stock shifter removal. It has three notches at the back end ( 06). When I got it to the floor plan it needed just a bit of persuasion from a flet tip screwdrive. Came right out. When I put the Hurst in , it was easier to drop the whole assembly , shifter stem and all . down through the console then back up. Just rest it on the drive shaft and get back underneath. Besides it lookin cool as hell it's smooth as Sh*t. Why the hell they don't do it in the first place is beyond me. I love it.
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Fig 06 V6 Pony,Premium, Vista Blue Parchment Leather IUP K&N Typhoon Intake JBA True Duels GT Rear Bumper ( Take off) HURST Shifter BAMA 89 tune Gen 2 Quarter window louvers Honetcomb rear panel Stars&stripes grill pony
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Hurst - 
