Don't know if it will fit but I really don't think it'll look to good. The stock shifter has the boot come all way up to the collar under the shift knob. The Hurst has a flat , chrome stem with a new collar you intall in the shift boot and it places the boot well below the shift knob. If you do go with the Hurst , when it comes time to install the oval **** boot peice, work it into the shift boot from the inside of the boot. Have fun.
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Fig 06 V6 Pony,Premium, Vista Blue Parchment Leather IUP K&N Typhoon Intake JBA True Duels GT Rear Bumper ( Take off) HURST Shifter BAMA 89 tune Gen 2 Quarter window louvers Honetcomb rear panel Stars&stripes grill pony
Actually the boot attaches directly to the stock shifter. So if you put it on instead of the Hurst ball it will hide the Hurst shaft and look stock. The only reason you see the Hurst is because there is no way to attach the boot directly to the Hurst ball. If you really wanted to you could pull the rubber boot that came with the hurst all the way up to the bottom of the ball, but then you'd hide that wonderfull Hurst lettering on the shaft. My wife took the stang today so I could get some new tires on her car or I'd show you what I'm talking about.
EDIT: Sorry just saw you got the Hurst in your Sig. You should know what I'm talking about hehe.
< Message edited by GIDDEUP -- 5/12/2006 11:14:50 AM >
Posts: 614
Joined: 3/19/2005 From: Boston, MA Status: offline
So what you're saying is that I'll have part of the stem showing, or will I be able to rig it up somehow? I can't imagine the Hurst being any taller than the stock shifter....
Also, why the heck can't I find the place that has the shifter only?? I thought it was Summit, but I can only find the shifter with knob there.
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ProCharger Stage II D1SC @ 14 psi SSM Stage 3 heads and cams 440 RWHP/388 RWTQ Tuned by Doug at B@m@Chips!
So what you're saying is that I'll have part of the stem showing, or will I be able to rig it up somehow? I can't imagine the Hurst being any taller than the stock shifter....
No I'm saying that none of the stem should show if the boot is long enough to stretch giving the stock appearance with no one the wiser that you have a Hurst in there. I don't think it was that much taller, I'll give it a try later when my cars home. This is all dependant on if the thread patterns match of course.
I installed the Hurst shifter in my 2005 Mustang last Friday. It makes for a much more pleasurable drive with the short throw and more precise shifts. Unfortunately, I've now got a major "buzz" when I'm driving in either third or 4th gear. This buzz happens when I accelerate and lets up when I let up on the gas. I worked the "lower", rubber boot down as far as I could on the shifter, and re-installed it just like it was when It came out.
Posts: 148
Joined: 4/30/2006 From: Atlanta Status: offline
I have one of these. I love it. It took about a week for the shifts to stop being so foreign and requiring quite so much effort, but I talked to a Hurst tech and he said that is normal. A quick HOW TO off the top of my head.
Yes you can install this at home, having an extra set of hands doesn't hurt.
Remove the shift knob, leather boot, then the rubber boot that is located underneat that. Put the car up on jack stands and block off the rear tires (if you don't have jack stands they're only like $25 if you plan on installing your own single axle back you'll be glad you have these). Use a 13mm wrench to unbolt the transmission linkage. Use a 10mm to undo the front mount of the shifter. Get a 10mm socket wrench and 3-4 extenders (it's much easier this way, unless you dropped out the drive shaft, I didn't.) Unbolt the rear mounting bracket, remove the rear rubber bushing and mounting bracket and feed the stock shifter up through the hole into the car (extra set of hands comes in handy. Remove the hardware in the existing rubber bushings and transfer it to the new urethane bushings. Lower the hurst shifter in down through the hole. Bolt the front mount in with your 10mm wrench. Bolt on the rear mounting bracket with your absurdly long 10mm ratchet. use 13mm wrench to fasten the transmission linkage to the bottom of the shifter. Get inside the car and bolt on both of the nuts that hold the chrome shifter arm (it's easier if you pop off the center console plastic piece). replace the rubber boot, replace the leather boot. put the nut onto the shift bar then screw the cueball shifter down and mess with it until you have it situated as you desire.
A great mod, I'd highly recommend it, makes 2-3 4-5 shifts a lot easier. I got mine from RPMoutlet.com for 189$ + 9$ handling fee and free shipping. Took me a while to install it, should have taken no more than 45 mins but had to wait until my buddy showed up with the tools he borrowed from me (ratchet set) before I could really get flying on this thing. Always a good tip: Use a broom to sweep out from under the car before you get to crawling around under there.
I was going to get the Hurst shifter, but it's over $350Cdn for me to get it... so I cheaped out and got the Saleen Short Shifter adapter for the car. Took me about 20mins to stick it on when I had the car up on a set of ramps, and for $45US bucks you can't go wrong. Nice throw reduction... very noticable, I believe I read somewhere somebody measured it and went from 4 3/8 to 2 3/4 inches. Shifting is a stiffer since I stuck it in, but you get use to it pretty quick. Here's the link if anyone is interested.
I installed the Hurst shifter in my 2005 Mustang last Friday. It makes for a much more pleasurable drive with the short throw and more precise shifts. Unfortunately, I've now got a major "buzz" when I'm driving in either third or 4th gear. This buzz happens when I accelerate and lets up when I let up on the gas. I worked the "lower", rubber boot down as far as I could on the shifter, and re-installed it just like it was when It came out.
Any ideas on how to eliminate the "buzz"?
Thanks,
Joe
Glad to hear I'm not the only one who "buzzes" in 3rd gear. I've not found a way to stop it yet either and I know all my bolts are tight.
Posts: 614
Joined: 3/19/2005 From: Boston, MA Status: offline
@cathane
I'm glad to hear I'm not the only one who passed on the Hurst. I went with the Steeda, though. I've trusted them for a long time, so I called them regarding their included "stops" vs Hurst not having them. They said that simply saying the tranny has internal stops is a misnomer. You can still bend the forks (or something like that) if you use too much pressure during a shift.
Also, I really wanted to keep the stock shifter knob, so paying extra for a knob I wouldn't even use seemed like a waste to me....
It should be here today! The only thing I'm worried about is that I've heard people recommend using a poly bushing or something like that. I ordered directly from Steeda, and didn't see any option for that.
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ProCharger Stage II D1SC @ 14 psi SSM Stage 3 heads and cams 440 RWHP/388 RWTQ Tuned by Doug at B@m@Chips!
I have an 06 GT, and my STOCK shifter "buzzes" in 3rd gear.
As far as stock looking, unbolt the stock stick and knob off the stock piece, and bolt it on the Hurst shifter. That is an option when you buy one!!! That way no one will by the wiser.
Sorry finally got around to playing with the car today. The stock knob wil NOT fit on the Hurst shifter. I tried it today and it does not catch the threads so again it does NOT work. That is all
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