CDC3 on the computer. I just ordered a CAI from Evolution with SCT. I'll be curious to see if that makes it stop. Also, I had only been putting 87 in the car. But, since people who have tunes are having the same, I doubt this is even a possible.
Fly, I think yours is just the traction control. If you're banging upshifts, you're probably getting this. It's tough to see sometimes, especially in bright sun, but look for the little yellow squiggle light on the dash (I'm can't remember for sure, but I think it's in the speedo area). I definintely had this happen the other day.
Mainly it seems to happen to me after cruising on the interstate for awhile. I can leave the car in fifth or downshift and hit the gas. All the sudden it feels just like the traction contol kicking in, but at 70 in fifth, I don't think I'm even close to spinning the tires...and I have looked for the light, but it doesn't come on.
Let's keep this up...I think 2k might have hit the nail on the head with the computer. BTW, does anyone know how many different version are out there?
Fly, I think yours is just the traction control. If you're banging upshifts, you're probably getting this. It's tough to see sometimes, especially in bright sun, but look for the little yellow squiggle light on the dash (I'm can't remember for sure, but I think it's in the speedo area). I definintely had this happen the other day.
No, it's definitely not the traction control because there was no mistaking the sound of the engine shutting off, and the traction control utilizes the antilock brakes. Also, I was on a concrete paved turnpike and a 3-4 upshift at 100ish mph. I got into it about a week ago under less favorable conditions, and I could even hear the tires breaking loose and nothing weird happened. I'm going to try the throttle pedal cycling trick and then see if I can get it to act up again.
I was hoping this was still on one of the top topics... I was driving today, going 77mph and after about 30 minutes. I downshifted into 4th and then bam, same exact thing happened to me. But then she ran fine.
woodyX2 you got it...do me a favor and check the computer code. There is a sticker on the computer. It's located on the passenger side, attached to the fuse box. The problem with this is just like you said...all the sudden it's fine again. Diagnosis is very tough since it only happens occasionally and is also difficult to predict. Hopefully we can get enough people to chime in and maybe figure out what the cause is...
Happend to me first time this weekend, have C&L /SCT2 combo from Evo Performance installed three weeks ago. The total milage is 4500, have had the 93 octane tune and CAI installed about 700 miles. Was driving from Houston to San Antonio, cruice control at 80mph, stopped at a gas station for 10 minutes, and was entering the ramp onto I-10 when it happend: Floored it from 2000rpm in 2nd gear and it just died for a second. This has never happend me before, and have not been able to reproduce it........
06 Tungsten Grey GT Premium Coupe (delivered Sept 05), 5 speed, C&L CAI/SCTII Combo from Evo Performance.
I have an AOD on my 05 and had the same problem, especially when stomping on the accelerator to make it shift gears, and from a dead stop. I took it in for a Dyno tune and the shop had a custom setting in the SCT tune he applied and it took all of the lag away. I was told it had to do with the throttle by wire and the TPS settings. Have not had the problem since. Check with a tuner and they may be able to help you out. Unless it is something entirely different causing your problem.
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2005 Roush 05-1690 - Windveil Blue - AOD Vortech V2-SQ 3.73 gears and to much more to list
It doesn't seem to affect many of the cars. I'm wondering if some of the computers are a little more picky and respond differently than most of the others do after the engine heats up a bit.
This is a thought, If you are having the power loss problem, post your PCM 4 letter code, Derck_mullin may be onto something here. Your Computer Code is on a white sticker on the engine side of the pcm (Silver box on the front passenger side of the engine compartment)
I am also a TJF1 ... interesting.
Geez, I leave for the back woods of Maine for a week thinking this thread was long dead, only to come back with all these updates!! I would just love to see some others with this problem come forward with their PCM codes. Very interested to see if there is a correlation.
I've tried the same thing with our 06 5 speed and it does not do it. Our Mustang is bone stock too.
I've been reading about this and agree it sounds like a set of "bad" computers that either don't respond well with a tune or there is a miscommunication between the cable-less T/B and the computer. I use to work at Lincoln as a front line tech/Drivability tech and it's not uncommon to see a "rash" of cars with consecutive VIN's that have bad parts on them.
The famous 4.0 Exploder is a prime example of what I'm talking about. Some needed a new idle air control valves and others needed new roller lifters. Ford will "pick and choose" what to replace and what not to....THERE IS NO RHYME OR REASON TO THIER WARRANTY CLAIMS OR THIER RECALLS.
Sounds like you guys are on to something though, but if it's because of your tune, then Ford surely will not warranty that. I spoke to a service manager at a Ford dealer the other day cause I wanted to have them install a Saleen S/C. I asked if they would keep the factory warranty and they flat out said NO!!!!!!
They went to the manual and read out that anything added to the car AFTER the purchase that modifies the performance of the drivetrain WILL void your warranty. Later on after talking to him and telling him who I was and throwing some names around he admitted that it all depends on who you know. So I'm saying if any Joe Shmoe walks in and has aftermarket mods on his/her Mustang and something breaks, then it will not be covered under warranty. However, if you know somebody and it breaks with mods, then it will be covered under the "good ol' boy network".
This happens to me too. I've experienced it coming off of the interstate to a stop sign. When I put it in first gear and attempt to accelerate away from the stop sign I get a hesitation that causes the car to buck and then I'm back on my way. I have a stock 06 GT manual.
Well, seems to be a total can of worms here. We've got autos, sticks, tunes, no tunes and all with different computers. This sucks of course because it seems random. No one with the same gas, same computer, same trans, nada.
I'm just curious tho as to what could even make the car do this. My dealer said if the fuel pressure is a problem, there's a sensor on the fuel rails and a sensor tied in, so that will throw a code. It's obviously not the traction control because it can happen in high gears at freeway speeds. I'm wondering if the computer senses knock for some reason it will pull so much timing it could cause this. I'm thinking after getting hot enough then putting a decent load on the engine it could trigger a knock sensor, pull timing severly and cause the problem. Again, this feels just like my Vette did before installing a cooler T-Stat.
I'm gonna put the tune in and see what happens. If it still does it, I'll put in a 180 tstat and see. Is there anyway to datalog with the SCT? I'm thinking if someone has a logger hooked up and can make this happen it should help solve the mystery.
Interesting...I haven't had that happen, but my speculation and software engineering instincts say it's a bug in their code. One thing I noticed right away on my new GT is it has a throttle ease down timer. When you take your foot off the gas quickly, it maintains throttle position for a short time and then starts to close it progressively faster.
I think what may be happening here is that ease down cycle is getting set when you let off the pedal to shift but then not cancelling when you push it back down. It then closes the throttle quickly at the end of the cycle but then registers the pedal position and opens it back up.
Of course not having access to their code, that's a total guess. It could be something more obscure with the fuel mix and O2 sensors. A test may be to wait a bit longer with the clutch down and the pedal in zero position and see if it still happens.
OK guys, take my symptoms out of the equation. Mine appears to be the rev limiter. When I shift just a wee bit earlier, no boogeyman. I'm thinking this is me, not the car.
OK guys, take my symptoms out of the equation. Mine appears to be the rev limiter. When I shift just a wee bit earlier, no boogeyman. I'm thinking this is me, not the car.
Just to be clear, as I am not sure I actually came out and answered this question when it was brought up back along, but I definitely was not hitting the rev limiter when this bucking happens. I'd say probably 4000-5000 RPMs in 4th. I am jealous that you've found out what the problem was, though
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I'm just curious tho as to what could even make the car do this. My dealer said if the fuel pressure is a problem, there's a sensor on the fuel rails and a sensor tied in, so that will throw a code. It's obviously not the traction control because it can happen in high gears at freeway speeds. I'm wondering if the computer senses knock for some reason it will pull so much timing it could cause this. I'm thinking after getting hot enough then putting a decent load on the engine it could trigger a knock sensor, pull timing severly and cause the problem. Again, this feels just like my Vette did before installing a cooler T-Stat.
I am not sold on the heat issue either. I'm in the Northeast and it's not nearly warm enough here (especially when this problem first happened) for the engine not to be fairly cool at highway speeds when not getting on the car for 15-20 minutes. My temp gauge has NEVER ever been above half mast; from cold start it inches up there and then stays planted.
Another (possibly unrelated) note, but I have noticed that with the heater on, if the thermostat kicks on to push out heat to the heater, I can notice small blip in engine RPMs when driving normally. It happens just as the *click* happens, and it seems a lot more noticable than on any other vehicle I have driven or ridden in. It's nowhere near the bucking I'm getting on the highway, though...
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Interesting...I haven't had that happen, but my speculation and software engineering instincts say it's a bug in their code. One thing I noticed right away on my new GT is it has a throttle ease down timer. When you take your foot off the gas quickly, it maintains throttle position for a short time and then starts to close it progressively faster.
I think what may be happening here is that ease down cycle is getting set when you let off the pedal to shift but then not cancelling when you push it back down. It then closes the throttle quickly at the end of the cycle but then registers the pedal position and opens it back up.
Of course not having access to their code, that's a total guess. It could be something more obscure with the fuel mix and O2 sensors. A test may be to wait a bit longer with the clutch down and the pedal in zero position and see if it still happens.
austijc, you make a good point. That throttle ease down timer is shady, and I can't say I much care for it. I think it is the same reason that I feel my shifting is out of whack with this car STILL, because the RPMs just don't come down fast enough in between gears, but....I digress. In general, there's so much going on in these systems that all sorts of timing issues could come up and be hard to reliably reproduce and diagnose. Maybe Ford will release their source under GPL! (yeah, right)
I think you missed my point a little. See, my Vette had a 200 degree tstat from the factory. However, the Vette had a real gauge (it's actually digital) and would show the temp. The car wasn't "overheating" in any way, it was just running at the factory set temp. Now from what I have read, the LT-1s were run that hot for emissions reasons from the factory. People (some, not all) were having problems kinda like what we are having. When the cooler thermostats were installed *POOF* problem gone. So, it's not outside temp related at all really. It was much more a matter of the engine being at "normal" operating temp then putting the vehicle under load. Because the "normal" temp was actually a little too hot under certain conditions (mainly a heatsoaked engine that had been run on the freeway for a fair amount of time) it would cause some detonation. The computer would see this, then immediately pull fuel and timing to prevent knock. The car falls on it's face, then the computer lets things come back and watches again. I'm gonna be getting the tuner and CAI today. I'll see if this helps. Actually though I don't normally drive far enough on a daily basis to check it. For me to have this happen I'm usually driving somewhere for an hour or more and even then it doesn't happen all the time, which is exactly when it would happen in the Vette. We'll see...
There is a lot of chatter on other Mustang forums about this problemo as well. I personally get this once or twice per tank of gas. All different outside temps/weather conditions. I also can get it during soft accelleration like between 2000 and 3000 rpm....and sometimes it happens after I have been sitting in traffic for a bit at a light then take off on an onramp. Whammo the buck-buck-buck happens and you look like you don't know how to shift your car. I've got a 5spd manual GT with no mods yet.
On the other mustang forum one person had posted that he had his tuner/laptop hooked up to the car and took off and reproduced the throttle hesitation. He posted a graph of the data that his tuner recorded. It showed the throttle shutting off and coming back on during the buck-buck-buck. If I can find it again I'll post his data.
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2005 Sonic Blue Metallic GT Premium 5sp Man., IUP, Dk charcoal leather, Active Anti-Theft & Shaker 1000
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RE: Sudden/Quick loss of engine power - 
(yeah, right)
