If the items here do not answer your questions. Please post your new questions in the appropriate tech sections above.
FAQ
Q: When I try to fill my gas tank it shuts off! A: Yes, there is a Ford TSB (Technical Service Bulletin) out on this. Check the TSB section Above.
Q: There is a popping noise when I make turns. A: Yes, there is a Ford TSB out on this. (Technical Service Bulletin) Check the TSB section Above.
Q: My Emergency/Parking brake is stuck/frozen! A: Yes, there is a Ford TSB out on this. (Technical Service Bulletin) Check the TSB section Above.
Q:How can I improve the throttle lag? A: You can purchase a CAI(cold air intake) and a tuner which can cost upwards of 650 dollars. (But worth every penny!) Here’s a tip from a fellow poster to help with the throttle lag a bit:
“Turn the key to ON (DO NOT START THE CAR!) and wait till all the normal lights in the dash go out, then slowly press the gas pedal until it is floored and release. Turn key off, wait about 6 seconds and then start your car. Give it a try.” - shave35
Q: I’m looking for a new exhaust, any sound clips? A: Please look at the Exhaust Sound Clips Topic at the top of the page or use the search function.
Q: Will my performance mods void my warranty? A: No, they will not void your entire warranty. Ford will just no longer cover the part that you replace. They can’t say if your axle breaks that it was because of your exhaust upgrade. If you do a mod and they can prove that the mod caused the failure then they won’t cover it.
Q: What is the difference between an axle back and a cat back exhaust. A: An axle back is basically just swapping out the muffler (from the axle back ) A cat Back system is the mufflers and the Tubing up to catalytic converter.
Q: My car Drones. What is a resinator and where can I get them? A: Drone occurs when you are cruising at a constant rpm and have the exact same muffler setup on both sides of the car. The reason why this produces drone is because the sound waves occur at the exact same time, and sound exactly the same, creating a "drone". What flapjack did was put the resonators staggered three inches to eliminate the drone. By placing them three inches apart the exhaust goes through one resonator before the other eliminating the exact sound at the exact same time. This eliminates drone. Midas or any muffler shop will carry them. -nicarc369
Q: How much does my V6 Pony weigh? A: 3300 Pounds
Q: What does the traction control do? A: Traction control uses the ABS system to pulse the brakes on a wheel it detects as spinning, slowing it and hopefully allowing the non-spinning wheel on the other side to receive some power. In that sense it is somewhat similar to a limited slip. A limited slip does this job far better though and doesn't wear your brake pads while doing it. -Torch_Vert
Q: Im thinking about putting dual GT take offs on my V6, but i'm wondering what it takes to do it. Also, Can I cut the bumper or do I have to have a GT bumper? A: Check this Step By Step thread by Tres Wright. V6 dual GT mufflers how-to w/ pics
Q: How can I make my car MUCH FASTER with MORE POWER? A: Check out this power adders thread at the 4.0 ****. Power Adders Thread
Q: What track times can I expect with my mods? A: Check out this forum of times posted by users at the 4.0 **** Track Times
Q: Why is my window tint scratched?! A: A strip of felt needs to be added. There is a TSB out on this.
Q: My car makes a clicking noise and sounds like air is leaking. A: The clicking is normal, just the A/C compressor cycling. From Backlash - AC air compressor discharge: In short, the brief blast of air you may hear while driving with windows down is normal and comes from the AC air compressor - nothing is wrong with your car. On my car it sounded like someone letting off a blast of compressed air every several minutes or so, or the air brakes on a city bus letting out (but a fraction of the volume).
A simple test to see if the noise is from the compressor is to turn the AC off and it will go away. On my car if I turn it on with the windows open, and then turn on the AC - I'll hear the blast right away. The blast occurs during driving or idling in neutral.
The Shaker has a an RDS option, hold down the menu button for 3 seconds to access the function. It will then display the radio stations or the type of music the station is.
TUNERS! A tuner (reflashing) will change the program that your car runs on. To avoid warranty issues just "Flash" back to stock before having it serviced. It's really a case by case basis depending on your dealer. Read this post by scrming:
"If you flash your car can the dealership tell? Yes, they can... No, they can't.... The debate has raged on long enough!!!
Here is the answer I got back from my sources inside of Ford engineering... I even had multiple sources confirm this... I'm sure someone is going to disagree with me... however I basically went to the horse's mouth on this one...
As it stands TODAY, all the dealership can tell is the last time the computer has been reset. Notice I said reset, not reflashed. Yes, reflashing does set this reset "date". But guess what... so does disconnecting the battery! LOL! So the dealership has no way of know what caused the reset... Simply tell them you left your lights on! LOL! Or in my case the bottle heaters! Ok, so maybe not the bottle heaters! LOL!
Now Ford does have a way to download the programming in the computer... if you did not reflash the car to stock then they will obviously see the differences and no you reflashed the car... however if you put the computer back to stock then all they will be able to tell is that the comptuer was reset... again... oops... i killed my battery... LOL!
Hopefully this will put an end to the debate...."
-scrming
Here are the most common companies for the XCAL2 tuner in no particular order:
Everyone has an opinion and a reason why they chose the tuner and company they did (Price, Performance, Customer Service). You can find many debates and topics about tuning and companies by using the SEARCH function at the top of the page.
Here's a post by post Furinox on his opinion of the thought that tuners save you gas mileage.
I'm not sure why people say the gas mileage is going to increase because it really isn't. If anything it is going to stay the same or go down. If you compare your current fuel mileage using 87 octane to your post tune mileage using higher octane of course you will get sligtly better mpg because of the higher octane. What I think most of you really want to know when you ask if your mpg is going to go down or up is if it will end up costing you more at the pump after a tune and my answer is maybe. Some of you may disagree but pre-tune lets say you are getting 20mpg using 87octane at $2.50/gal. You have a 16 Gal tank so 16x20=320 miles per tank. The highest octane is usually a minimum of $0.20 more per gallon so considering a slight increase in fuel mileage could be 22mpg? Ok, so 22x16=352 miles per tank. so for a fill up from bone dry 87 octane is $40.00, fill up from bone dry with 93 is $43.20.
So...with 87 octane you are paying 40.00 bucks for a tank of gas and getting 320 miles. With 93 octane you are paying 43.50 for 352 miles.
Thats an extra 32 miles for $3.50 more at the pump
with 87 octane $.125 cost per mile.
with 93 octane $.113 cost per mile.
If your gas station only charges $0.20 more for the highest octane, and you actually see at least 2 miles per gallon increase while using it then it is about .01 cents more economical to buy the higher grade fuel.
Don't jump for joy yet. Other factors are going to go into account once you tune your car. It is my understanding that a CAI brings more air than fuel into your engine and that is why you require the tune. The tune tells the computer to add more fuel to the motor to account for the extra air thus giving you the extra power. Let me say that one more time, the tune is telling the computer to use MORE fuel. The amount of fuel we are talking about though is very minute.
It is my opinion from knowing what I have stated in this post that with a CAI and Tuner your MPG is actually going to go down, but so little that you wont really notice it unless you keep your foot in it.
All in all the Tuner/CAI is a great thing to add to your car for power and that little extra oomph. The only thing that is going to drastically change your fuel economy is you. -Furinox
A post by Rygenstormlocke
Base Recipe for a high performance 4.0L
Not sure where to put this, but created this thread on another site and it was well received.
The topic comes up on what it takes to get a 4.0L into the performance of some V8 cars at the track. Mid 13’s with the potential to later go to 12’s is my baseline here. After learning from my mistakes and others mistakes, I think I have come up with a cost effective list of modifications to get there. Please respond with any corrections/inclusions.
Engine
• Power adder o Nitrous Race Setup w/Intake, Tune & Install: $2000.00 o Turbo Setup w/Intercooler, Tune & Install: $6000.00 o SC Setup w/Intercooler, Tune & Install: $5000.00
Suspension
• LCA’s: $130 • UCA’s: $100 • Take off GT tire/wheel package (shipped): $450
Drivetrain
• LSD & gears w/Install: $700
Exhaust
• Single Bolt on Muffler: $300
Summary
• 13 second Nitrous Rig on streets: $3680.00 • 13 second Turbo Rig on streets: $7680.00 • 13 second SC Rig on streets: $6680.00
Now, keep in mind that this is on street tires and assumes you have the base model V6. Those of you with the pony package can save $450 on these packages. Also keep in mind you will need a Snell 2005 Helmet@$250 for track events.
Not all of these packages are created equal, with equal potential to 12’s and for some of you nuts, 11’s. But the purpose of this thread is to provide you a cheat sheet of what it will take to reach V8 track performance, and I have seen a lot of perceived “fast” V8’s at the track run low 13’s to mid 14’s.
Some people may look at this list and want to trade in for a GT. LOL. But I wanted to show that now that people are getting these 4.0’s for a good price used or new, 13-20K, that an investment of 3-7K turns theses cars into real monsters!!! Also keep in mind that these poweradder kits come with tunes, and for those of you that want to do the install yourself and use the canned tunes, subtract $1K from them.
So please provide any input and thoughts. I am working on an optional section of this cheat sheet that includes DS w/loop, shifters, more suspension goodies, tuning costs for upping the boost, places to get engines (LOL), DR’s, etc. But that will take a bit.
GT Rear w/ V6 Driveshaft??
I researched this swap for my car and currently have a GT manual rear end with the 3.55 gears in shipping. The yoke or flange on the GTs is different from what the OEM V6 driveshaft requires, or what an after market V6 driveshaft will require. You need to replace the yoke with a P/N E9TZ-4851-A flange in order to mate the GT rear end to your V6 driveshaft. I verified this with a call to Shelby in Las Vegas where I talked to Ted about their CS6 vehicle. According to Ted, the CS6 rear ends Shelby is selling through Hillbank Motorsports have the Mustang GT flange replaced with the E9TZ-4851-A yoke (verified this P/N too). Ted said you can identify this flange because its face is flat, where the stock Mustang GT flange is a cupped shape. One of the guys who is building a CS6 using a Powerhouse V6 driveshaft reported he had no problem with the shaft installation using the Hillbank rear end with the E9TZ-4851-A yoke. Powerhouse also verified this P/N on the yoke.
I found one source for, the E9TZ-4851-A flange (http://www.drivetrainspecrapts.com/categories/yokes/products/product-1117.html), for $47.26 plus shipping but other sources should be able to get it including Ford dealers..
Alert! Info on V6 Driveshafts - afixer
Ok so i am tired as heck but im home i will make this short!. as most of you know i am the test mule for the x-charger. and yesterday while on the dyno at around 118 MPR my driveshaft exploded! do i have your attention i hope so. this is what we found. when this happend i was 100 miles away and could not do anything but find dave from explorer express a new shaft and wait. all day and all night i speculated on why. after long talks with my 2 ford buddy and rygen,screamin and kurtv6 i kinda came to the conclusion that the v6 drive shaft was a piece of crap ( no duh ) any way my ford bud did notice that the new one had a new part number. Hum, so i showed up today and on the floor was the shaft broken in two and both u joints apart. as it turns out the 05 v6 drive shaft just presses in the u joint caps. at high rpm 110 plus the caps start to come out. (i will post pics soon)
The u joints and the mounts are fine they did not break at the high rpm the caps shifted and the u joint simply cam out. i tell you all this because i know alot of you are excceding the recomended speed, we use to think that it was only the tires but its not. the up side to the story is i am alive no one was hurt except my car and they have fixed the drive shaft, oh yea did i mention the new driveshaft now comes with larger caps and retainer rings! i will post pics of them too. i have no recorse with ford i am not going after them i am owning up to the fact that the car was going faster than it should have. i say this because you are all my family and i dont want any of you getting hurt. check you driveshafts if you have the old style hopfully the will do a recall i cant its too late but please if you racing moding to exceed the specs you should check into this. all others that just got the car for its pure beauty like i origianaly did you should be ok ! this only happend because the car was going too dam fast 110 to 120 thank you i hope this helps you. i will be posting a complete update later but i just got home and felt this had to be said
again no performance cars are ok ( ford dont sue me!) but for all you gear heads and you know who you are! this is important.
Here's a great post by BlueStang6 on definitions of Commonly used terms.
49 STATE KIT - Exhaust or power adder certified (or at least not illegal by statute) for street use except in California
AXLE BACK– Exhaust piping and muffler system add-on (usually the muffler only) that connects to the existing system aft of the rear axle
A/F – Air/Fuel Ratio
BHP - "Brake" Horsepower. "Brake" is an old word for Dyno and is a measure of horsepower at the flywheel
BLOWER – Supercharger
BOLT-ON - Add-on or modification that is designed so that the car owner can usually do the install without special tools
BOV - Blow off valve
BULLITT - A wheel design used on the Mustang driven by Steve McQueen in the movie of the same name
CAI - Cold Air Induction
CARB # - A serial number issued by the California Air Resources Board that certifies an exhaust add-on meets emission regulations
CAT - Catalytic Converter
CATBACK – Exhaust piping and muffler system add-on that starts after the catalytic converter
CEL - Check Engine Light
CROSSOVER PIPE - Any type of mid-pipe which connects dual exhaust pipes starting from the cats
DOHC – Dual Overhead Cam
DRONE - A low frequency sound that occurs at a specific RPM (usually 1800 – 2200) while the engine is under load
EGR - Exhaust Gas Recirculation system or valve
FI – Fuel Injection
F/I – Forced Induction
FOX BODY - A lightweight unibody architecture used on Mustangs built from 1979 to 1993
HiPo - The high performance version of a power adder which increases reliability and performance over the standard version
H PIPE - A type of exhaust crossover pipe in the shape of an "H"
H/C/I - Short for Heads, Cam and Induction
HID - High Intensity Discharge headlights commonly called xenon because of the gas used in the lamps
ID - Inside Diameter
IAT - Incoming Air Temperature sensor
IUP - Interior Upgrade Package
JUICE or JUICED - Term used to describe cars using nitrous oxide injection systems
LCA – Lower Control Arm
LSD – Limited Slip Differential
LT - Long Tube Headers
MAF - Mass Air Flow sensor
MANDREL BEND - A pipe bending method which reduces turbulence and increases flow because the diameter of the pipe stays the same throughout
MCU - Master Control Unit
NA – Normally/Naturally aspirated engine (No F/I)
NOS - The brand name of a nitrous system from Nitrous Oxide Systems. NOS is wrongly used to describe all nitrous systems thanks to the movie The Fast and The Furious.
NOS (when used with a part description) - New, Old Stock is a spare part which is new meaning never used, but the part may have been sitting in a crate for 50 years
o2 SENSOR - A probe that indicates precisely how complete the combustion of the air/fuel mixture in the cylinders is by measuring the oxygen content of the exhaust gas and is the starting point for controlling the A/F OD - Outside Diameter
O/D - Overdrive
ODP - Overdrive Pulley OEM - Original Equipment Manufacturer
PANHARD BAR/ROD - A bolt on bar which may or may not be adjustable that relocates the rear axle to the center of the car
PCV - Positive Crankcase Ventilation system or valve PLENUM - Another way to say intake
RICE – Excessive combination of body panels, vendor decals, etc. You’ve seen them – usually cheap foreign cars with lawnmower engines and fart can mufflers (not to be confused with a RICE ROCKET which is very fast!)
RWHP – Horsepower measured at the rear wheel (on a rear wheel drive car) usually with a dynomometer
SC - Supercharger
SOHC – Single Overhead Cam
SHORTIES - Short tube headers
SNIFFER- Refers to Emissions testing
STALL SPEED - The engine RPM level at which the torque converter "locks" and overcomes whatever resistance is present - car weight, brakes on, etc. - and begins to spin the tires. The whole idea behind different stall speeds is to allow the car to launch at or just below the point where the engine makes the most torque. With the proper stall speed the engine can be revved to peak torque without breaking the tires loose. That way, the engine doesn't have to build up to the peak RPM point - all of the power is right there, on tap. The most important factors when selecting a torque converter is the camshaft, stall speed and weight of the car.
TAKE-OFFS - Stock exhaust, brakes, suspension or appearance parts taken off another car, usually a Mustang GT
TC - Turbocharger
TPS- Throttle Position Sensor
T-LOC – A clutch/spring type of LSD
TB - Throttle Body
TORQUE CONVERTER - In automatic transmissions it takes the place of the manual clutch and is used to transmit power from the engine to the driveshaft. (See also STALL SPEED)
TRUE DUALS – Exhaust piping without crossovers
TUNER - Hand held device which re-progams the car's computer for greater performance and efficiency
TURN DOWNS - Exhaust piping turned downward directly after mufflers with no tailpipes
TRUETRAC - The brand name of a gear type LSD made by the Detroit Locker division of Eaton Corp
TT – Twin Turbochargers UCA – Upper Control Arm
UDP - Underdrive Pulley
VERT- Convertible
WOT - Wide Open Throttle
Y PIPE - A type of exhaust mid-pipe, joining two pipes into one pipe, a second "y" can be used to split the pipes for a "fake"-dual exhaust setup
X PIPE - A type of exhaust crossover pipe in the shape of an "X"
Any suggestions? Corrections? I’ll add to it.
< Message edited by SOLDSHORT -- 4/3/2007 12:28:35 AM >
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XCAL2 By Bamachips 87 Perf Tune, JBA Dual Exhaust w/ H-Pipe, MMR High Flow Intake Kit, Legend Spoiler, Roush Hood Scoop, 17"GT take off rims, 8" Shorty Antenna
I was on Ebay looking at Mustang Stuff. I have a 2006 Convertible (Still in storage until snow and salt leave), first Mustang, prior Corvette guy.
I noticed there was a couple of people advertising performance chips with 35-62HP increase etc and increased milage they range from $6.95 to $36.00 etc. Is this all a crock of crap or is there any validity to their claims. They also say install is so easy a "CAVEMAN" could do it, LOL
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4.0 Tech FAQ (Read here before asking about TUNERS!) - 
