Just so you know, the page you posted has the price for the pinon yoke. You can also build your own driveshaft by using a Ford Racing aluminum driveshaft for a 4x4 Ranger shortened 9" and a 03-04 Cobra pinion flange. I plan to use these parts to build my own.
The stang shop I use has recommended an aluminium one piece shaft and this would probably be even better. I am holding off until they have done one and can put it on their dyno to determine the hp gain. I don't want to be the first to drop 1K+ for this upgrade.
I'm really quite annoyed FRPP hasn't come out with an aluminum driveshaft for our stangs yet. Maybe they tried and found it was too little horsepower improvement for the cost?
_____________________________
2005 Gt, Manual, "Any colour - so long as it's black." ___________
You can pick up the Ford Racing driveshaft and pinion flange from any FRPP dealer. The part numbers are:
Driveshaft: M-4602-R Pinion flange: M-4851-B
You are looking at about $240 for the driveshaft and $30 for the pinion flange plus about $150 to have the driveshaft shortened and balanced. ~ $420 is a whole lot better than $700 to me. Plus I wouldn't worry about the aluminum Ranger shaft up to about 600rwhp.
That's the one I'm going with - JPC Racing. In addition to reducing the rotational weight, I'm getting the aluminum driveshaft because it's stronger. I don't figure that stock 2 piece is going to hold up to too much punishment. -Joe
Has anyone does this? Good idea? , and whats the hp increase by doing it?
"You can pick up the Ford Racing driveshaft and pinion flange from any FRPP dealer. The part numbers are:
Driveshaft: M-4602-R Pinion flange: M-4851-B
You are looking at about $240 for the driveshaft and $30 for the pinion flange plus about $150 to have the driveshaft shortened and balanced. ~ $420 is a whole lot better than $700 to me. Plus I wouldn't worry about the aluminum Ranger shaft up to about 600rwhp. "
Thanks
< Message edited by praztek -- 3/30/2006 6:31:05 PM >
There are some guys on TMS and ModularFords that have done it already, you are looking at similar increases in hp due to lower rotational mass regardless of what route you go.
i was the first one to do it and mine is still in and zero problems. it is worth doing but i wouldn't pay $700 for one when i can get the same thing for $350. the frpp ranger shaft is t6061t-6 aluminum just like powerhouse and jpc. and because it is a ford product and comes completely assembled from their factory the fit is great once you have it shortened. i have track tested it. it is worht .2 seconds for sure. durability is not an issue so far. vegasjay on TMS has one that i had built and he runs a saleen s/c with a 5speed. he loves it. you can feel the difference as soon as you take off after installing. losing 30lbs of rotating weight is equal to losing over 200lbs of static weight! if your are in the DC/Baltimore area i know a company that will shorten and rebalance for you and no, i don't want to sell them or deal with getting a bunch made either. i almost did that but some prick stiffed me for the money on e-bay. good thing i hadn't shipped it to him. i can't understand why ford hasn't done it either.
_____________________________
leonardracing.com 11.89 @ 114.77 stock longblock n/a auto
The dealer tells me that the main reason for the 2 piece is vibration reduction. For those of you that have switched to the 1 piece, can yo comment on this? Thanx
_____________________________
Jerry D. Coombs Base model Vista Blue 2006 GT with 1970 reflective black BOSS stripes, Steeda UDP set. DeMolet tunable CAI SCT tuner w/ 87 tune. Flow Master axlebacks. Rear window louvers, sequential tail lights
i've heard the same thing but i had no noise or vibration issues with the aluminum driveshaft. the gears are a different story but i think i have that problem figured out. also they put axle dampeners and filled the panhard bar with sand or something. i believe the problem is a machining error on the carrier. seems the explorers had the same posi unit and the same type of problem with noise and vibrations. that is the only part in the diff. that the two share. that tells me something. anyway no worrys with the driveshaft as long as it's rebalanced and welded correctly. they are stronger than stock. i have seen a few posts already of pretzel shaped factory steel driveshafts.
_____________________________
leonardracing.com 11.89 @ 114.77 stock longblock n/a auto
I had the aluminum 1-piece from JPC and it worked like crap for me. At 70 mph - it felt like you were taking off in a 747 - the whole car rattled like crazy. I took it to the actual shop who manufactures them for JPC cause they are local to me (inland driveline in Ontario, Ca.) and they discovered the machining was off and they completely re-did it for me. I saw it on the blancer smooth as silk but when I put it on my car it vibrated like carzy again but this time not unitl 90 MPH. It vibrated so bad I had to let off at 100 mph and couldn't go any faster at the track.
Now I went over this for literally 2 weeks with inland driveline & JPC and the solution we came up with was my gearing (4.10's) and my suspension set-up. Because I utilize a metco full race suspension in the rear (it is not specifically designed for the new stangs) the angle of the driveshaft was slightly off and that angle difference is what was causing the vibration at high speed. The reason I don't feel the vibration with the stock driveshaft is because since it is a two piece, it allows for the flex at the rubber housing where to the two pieces come together to adjust for the angle difference.
So fo me, it kinda of sucks. I am having a 1-piece steel driveshaft fabbed for me specifically for my angle and design. I'm waiting till all my subframe work is done and my race set-up so it will be a perfect fit.
Having said all that, my situation is certainly unique because of my set-up so for the majority of you with standard and mild drag suspension set-ups - the angle should be just fine and JPC has no other problems with their driveshafts on any other cars than mine so I think the 1-piece aluminum is a good buy IMO and would certainly go the ranger route to save $$$.
This was cleared up in the beginning of this thread.
"Just so you know, the page you posted has the price for the pinon yoke. You can also build your own driveshaft by using a Ford Racing aluminum driveshaft for a 4x4 Ranger shortened 9" and a 03-04 Cobra pinion flange. I plan to use these parts to build my own. "
Printable Version
Driveshafts - 
