Posts: 326
Joined: 3/13/2006 From: Las Vegas, NV Status: offline
That was a nice benefit that I hadn't really thought about until I was installing the thing. The charge motion plate (butterflies and all) and the intake are tossed. Figure thats gotta help the numbers as well and I don't have to drop $320 for the deletes and another $200 for a new tune to make it work right. I can deal with this kind of surprise. Ran the beast for the first time since the install last Friday night. It was really crowded and I only got one good run in. Ran a 12.38 ET at 110.58mph. Had a 1.87 60' using slicks. Really wished I could of had a few more runs but they will have to wait until later on this month. I think shes got some better ET's in her. I can smell the elevens. Only a pulley change away.
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60'=1.635 1/8=7.584 @ 90.61 1/4=12.003 @ 110.98 2500' DA. 424rwhp@399t @8psi Kenne Bell,BMR,SLP,Eibach,Auburn,Strange,TCI,Prothane,Hurst,Ford Racing,BFG,MT,MGW My Garage
Posts: 326
Joined: 3/13/2006 From: Las Vegas, NV Status: offline
I discovered a self inflicted, hp reducing BOOBOO yesterday. Currently I am only discussing the "BOOBOO" with my therapist who says I'm in a state of complete and utter denial but I'm working through it one day at a time and coming to terms with the fact that I may have, eh, that I did make this BOOBOO happen. What I can tell you though is that nothing was damaged and that the BOOBOO was easily corrected. My dyno and race numbers were both influenced by the BOOBOO so I am anticipating higher numbers for both now that it has been corrected. Figure I lost somewhere between 10 to 20 hp. Hopefully, one day, with help, I will be able to talk about the BOOBOO openly, in public, but for now, it has taken everything that I could muster just to admit that I am BOOBOO capable. I still can't believe it. Life can be so cruel.............lol. If you can guess what I did, I will admit it. I think doing this might have a positive effect in overcoming this very traumatic incident. Thank you for your concern Brian
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60'=1.635 1/8=7.584 @ 90.61 1/4=12.003 @ 110.98 2500' DA. 424rwhp@399t @8psi Kenne Bell,BMR,SLP,Eibach,Auburn,Strange,TCI,Prothane,Hurst,Ford Racing,BFG,MT,MGW My Garage
ORIGINAL: sidmanic You also have to get a funky tool to gap them properly as well.
Not entirely true. You can do it with a 9/16 socket, a bench vise, and a cotter pin. That is how I did mine. After paying an arm and a leg for a set of spark plugs, I refused to pay another 30 bucks for a friggin piece of round bar with a hole drilled in it that I probably wouldn't use more than a couple of times ( if that many ).
What ever happened to the $1.99 a plug days. Its always something.
The same thing that happened to $40.00 mufflers, talk about shock!
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Vortech V2-SQ Supercharger 60' 1.769 1/8 7.901@90.15 1/4 12.20@113.50 - new best! 10/13/07 Best 1/4 on stock KDWS tires = 12.56@113.3 My 2006 Mustang GT Web Page
Posts: 326
Joined: 3/13/2006 From: Las Vegas, NV Status: offline
I think I'm pretty fortunate in having the whole family into the car. They were the ones who talked me into getting the car in the first place. A very cool moment for my wife happened the other day when I was out of town. She got to experience the ooooohs and aaaahhhs when you first pop the hood when a bunch of people are around. She wasn't all that pleased when I told her the final total but she likes the aftermath of showing off a top of the line huffer. Just low ball it at first. Thats how I started. Then I slowly kept adding stuff that I said was needed. Before she knew it, it was ordered and on the way. Shoot, now I have to replace the rearend on Monday because I got too much torque. Not a bad thing to be griping about.........
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60'=1.635 1/8=7.584 @ 90.61 1/4=12.003 @ 110.98 2500' DA. 424rwhp@399t @8psi Kenne Bell,BMR,SLP,Eibach,Auburn,Strange,TCI,Prothane,Hurst,Ford Racing,BFG,MT,MGW My Garage
Posts: 632
Joined: 4/23/2006 From: Charlotte NC Status: offline
Thanks for all the info sidmanic. I called KB yesterday and my unit ships out monday!! I was looking at their website and they said that hitting the rev limiter was very bad (shuts off fuel in boost). Did your ture change the rev limit? What RPM do you shift at? I was thinking of babying the stock rods and shifting at 5800 or so?
Posts: 326
Joined: 3/13/2006 From: Las Vegas, NV Status: offline
With the tuner you get from KB, you can't change anything. You can only load the custom tune they give you, so whatever KB has it set to is what I got. I think the rev limit is still around 6500rpm. Mines an auto so I let the D do the shifting. It does shift different than stock. Short shifts second. You will find yourself rarely ever needing to floor it, (unless you just want to) gets up and goes with a lot less throttle.
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60'=1.635 1/8=7.584 @ 90.61 1/4=12.003 @ 110.98 2500' DA. 424rwhp@399t @8psi Kenne Bell,BMR,SLP,Eibach,Auburn,Strange,TCI,Prothane,Hurst,Ford Racing,BFG,MT,MGW My Garage
Posts: 632
Joined: 4/23/2006 From: Charlotte NC Status: offline
Well, after 3 days of hard work, I finally got my KB installed...then broke the belt immediately when I started it up. I must have had it crooked on the PS pulley, cause that is where it was wedged behind. How disappointing! And noone around here has a 10 foot long belt either.
That stinks and sorry to hear that. I was wondering if next time the thing to do would be to spin it by hand or with the spark off. I don't know if that's possible though..
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06 Vista blue Vert all options Whipple HO 8psi MAC axle backs Helwig rear sway bar Steeda LCA & Panard bar & Brace
Posts: 632
Joined: 4/23/2006 From: Charlotte NC Status: offline
I'm not sure how much those belts cost ($100?) (Kenne Bell was closed today to order one), but yes, I'm going to spin that motor somehow first next time--either with a wrench on the crank or motoring it as you suggested. I really don't see how I messed it up, but it won't happen again!
Other than that, the install went pretty smooth. I broke the upper headlight bracket trying to pry the pin in front of the upper bolt out (fixed with alum plate/rivets/JB weld). The heater hoses were hard to get off the firewall. There is this so called "bolt from hell" that holds a heater bracket to the back of the head. Getting it back in was a bear, until I found out I was trying to screw it into the wrong hole! I put in cooler sparkplugs (from sparkplugs.com) and gapped with the vise method. Pushing the fuel line back on the fuel rail was impossible, so I took some channel-locks wrapped in a rag--big mistake, I cut the line slightly and it leaked like crazy under pressure. I just had to cut an inch off and reattach. Yes, I still had to use channel-locks!
One question: I seemed to reflash to PCM correctly, but it says "fail safe mode" on the panel. Will this go away after I actually start the car, or do I need to reflash?
Posts: 326
Joined: 3/13/2006 From: Las Vegas, NV Status: offline
That sucks about the belt. I sure that you probably already rechecked the routing of the belt to make sure everything is spinning the right direction but I thought it might be worth mentioning. You will need to reflash for the tune. I would talk to KB about this when you order your belt. The sales guys are just as good as the support guys. Did you use the Di-electric lube when you put the fuel line on? I didn't have any issues with it. Sorry to hear you are having problems. Its such a long install, the last thing you want is any problems after all that work. I have to say that your install looks a hell of a lot better than mine. I haven't broke down and spent the money for steel braiding but it sure a hell looks great. Had to set you back a bit because I know how long some of those lines are. Nice job. I finally got my valve covers so they should be going on sometime this week. Thats easy compared to your braid job. Keep us posted. I want to know what you think once you get her up and running. brian
< Message edited by sidmanic -- 5/23/2006 4:32:05 AM >
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60'=1.635 1/8=7.584 @ 90.61 1/4=12.003 @ 110.98 2500' DA. 424rwhp@399t @8psi Kenne Bell,BMR,SLP,Eibach,Auburn,Strange,TCI,Prothane,Hurst,Ford Racing,BFG,MT,MGW My Garage
Posts: 632
Joined: 4/23/2006 From: Charlotte NC Status: offline
Got a new belt overnighted (plus a spare). When I put the new one on, I noticed that the 76mm idler was only covering about 1/2 of the belt. It seems as though I did not have it seated all the way on the boss. But it would not go on after I tried to re-seat it (nor would the old one). I had to file down the burr that was either there or I created by cocking the bearing against it.
When I started it, sure enough it was only barely idling. I tried to reflash and near the end of the first half (LEDS going one way), there was a clunk, ny fuel pressure jumped to 60, I got an "overheat warning" message, then a failsafe mode message, then the flash would stop. It did this 3 times. I called Kenne Bell...they said that the belt could have slapped a computer plug loose.
Well. what I found was a loose plug on the throttle body by the battery post. That fixed the failsafe, and it ran good. I did a test drive and it has great power now!
- I do still have a check engine light. Maybe it is because the gas cap/door is at the paint shop? Or I need to reflash the computer after half-loading it 3 times??? - I have a small leak at the thermostat housing. Maybe the O ring is kinked or on the wrong side??
As far as the braided lines. It is just two Spectre braided sleeve kits from Jegs. They run about $20 each.
< Message edited by BigDave -- 5/24/2006 7:05:56 AM >
Posts: 326
Joined: 3/13/2006 From: Las Vegas, NV Status: offline
Its hard not to get in a hurry but I had similar things happen later on. I skipped over torquing a spark plug because I wasn't paying enough attention. I get occational CE lights, I use my old Diablo programer to find out what they are, I get a misfire on # 8 cylinder below 1000 rpm from time to time. I never notice anything unusual though. I wonder if its just the sensors that are causing the problem. I am getting ready to have a full blown diagnostic on the dyno to see what she's really doing. I will more than likely have the guy retune the car also (against KB's warranty) but I'm tired of waiting to hear from KB. The customer support is very weak but I don't think any of the SC companies jump through the hoops like they should. I will just find someone local who knows what they are doing. BTW, reflashing the computer will get rid of the CE light, you might want to know what it is though before you reflash. Go to Autozone, they will pull the code and reset them for nothing. Good luck Dave, it will come together eventually. brian
quote:
ORIGINAL: BigDave
Got a new belt overnighted (plus a spare). When I put the new one on, I noticed that the 76mm idler was only covering about 1/2 of the belt. It seems as though I did not have it seated all the way on the boss. But it would not go on after I tried to re-seat it (nor would the old one. I had to file down the burr that was either there or I created by cocking the bearing against it.
When I started it, sure enough it was only barely idling. I tried to reflash and near the end of the first half (LEDS going one way), there was a clunk, ny fuel pressure jumped to 60, I got an "overheat warning" message, then a failsafe mode message, then the flash would stop. It did this 3 times. I called Kenne Bell...they said that the belt could have slapped a computher plug loose.
Well. what I found was a loose plug on the throttle body by the battery post. That fixed the failsafe, and it ran good. I did a test drive and it has great power now!
- I do still have a check engine light. Maybe it is because the gas cap/door is at the paint shop? Or I need to reflash the computer after half-loading it 3 times??? - I have a small leak at the thermostat housing. Maybe the O ring is kinked or on the wrong side??
As far as the braided lines. It is just two Spectre braided sleeve kits from Jegs. They run about $20 each.
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60'=1.635 1/8=7.584 @ 90.61 1/4=12.003 @ 110.98 2500' DA. 424rwhp@399t @8psi Kenne Bell,BMR,SLP,Eibach,Auburn,Strange,TCI,Prothane,Hurst,Ford Racing,BFG,MT,MGW My Garage
Posts: 326
Joined: 3/13/2006 From: Las Vegas, NV Status: offline
You know, I have never timed my 0-60 (which isn't all that acuate) and I haven't bought one of the performance meters or gauges to see what it actually is. Before I put the SC in I would just quote Motor Trend or Car & Driver and say it was 5.0 seconds. I figure its somewhere in the mid 4's, especially when I got the slicks on. Car is in the shop at present so I can't even take it around the block to find out. Gotta wait till next week. I am having a new limited slip installed (burned my stock one to pieces at the track) and I am going with a little taller gear. Taking the 4.10's out and putting in 3.73's. This is based the fact that I am running a positive displacement SC so I don't need the higher revv's that are more suited for a centrifugal or turbo. The 3.73's are also better suited for the automatic because it has a lower first gear than the manual. If I was drift racing, the 4.10's would be perfect.
quote:
sidmanic what is your 0-60 time?
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60'=1.635 1/8=7.584 @ 90.61 1/4=12.003 @ 110.98 2500' DA. 424rwhp@399t @8psi Kenne Bell,BMR,SLP,Eibach,Auburn,Strange,TCI,Prothane,Hurst,Ford Racing,BFG,MT,MGW My Garage
Posts: 632
Joined: 4/23/2006 From: Charlotte NC Status: offline
Sidmaniac, does you car have a stumble when you first floor the gas? Mine has quite a bit of stumble (similar to those of 4 barrel carb days), then screams. My fuel pressure is around 40, then 60 with the BAP kicking in. I think I am needing more fuel pressure??
Also, I still can't get my tuner to reflash. I'm assuming that all the correct parameters loaded the first (good) time.
I went to autozone to get my check engine light read (may be due to no gas cap?). He wasn't able to get it to work on my car???
< Message edited by BigDave -- 5/28/2006 2:56:01 PM >
Posts: 326
Joined: 3/13/2006 From: Las Vegas, NV Status: offline
I don't think its your fuel pressure because its exactly the same as mine and my car doesn't stumble, only I do. I'm going to throw this out there only because I had a problem with it a few months ago and it had to do with the relief valve on the SC. Here's a pic that might help visualize it a bit better. The problem that happened was that the set screws (2 of them) somehow became loose. The one on the left shows how the Butterfly Valve Actuator (BVA) should look when the engine is off. The valve is closed in this position and if the engine was running with the valve like this, it would be producing full boost. The Black Circle on the BVA is one of the set screws. It is pointed straight up in this fig. That set screw is what attaches that piece of linkage to the shaft of the valve. If that screw becomes loose, that piece of linkage can move around causing the arm (Black Arm coming from the Diaphram where the vacuum line connects) and become miss-aligned and not actuate propberly. If this valve is not working right, you may not have boost when you want it or the other way around. The second 2mm set screw is not really pictured on either of the figures. The second set screw (using the right fig.) lines up with a small pilot hole that is in the side of the Valve Body and when tightened down locks the linkage and the BVA exactly as it is pictured. The Bypass valve is locked in the Open position and dumping all the Boost back into the inlet maniforld. This is "Valet Mode". This second screw had also worked its way out of the normally backed out position (flush inside the BVA linkage). By the time that I caught this, the setscrew had move out (towards the pilot hole in the valve body) and locked the bypass valve wide open. Had boost one moment and the next I was N/A. Took me a couple hours to figure out what was wrong and was easy to fix with a little loc-tite but you could tell by the wear in the side of the Valve body that this had been like this for awhile was not working consistantly when it was supposed to and problably causing weird things to happen. Everyonce in a while before I found this problem I might have a weird hic-up or stumble but it would go away and come back at different times. With both setscrews loose, the linkage would bind and grab and sometimes get cocked because the whole linkage was not moving feely because it was miss-aligned. After I tightened the screw, everything worked and lined up like new. This is difficult to expain with just text, thats why I added the pic. It was still hard with the pic. Let me know if something is unclear or needs more expaining. Good luck Dave, I'll try to think of something else it could be if this is not it. I told KB about this and I got a free T-Shirt. Sometimes new stuff just has too many bugs. It can be a big haystack sometimes.
< Message edited by sidmanic -- 5/28/2006 4:48:51 PM >
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60'=1.635 1/8=7.584 @ 90.61 1/4=12.003 @ 110.98 2500' DA. 424rwhp@399t @8psi Kenne Bell,BMR,SLP,Eibach,Auburn,Strange,TCI,Prothane,Hurst,Ford Racing,BFG,MT,MGW My Garage
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RE: Kenne Bell Install - 
