Hello everyone, I have been a long time lurker here but haven't posted too much.
I took over the family Mustang ('66 convertible) from my dad a few years ago. It needed a lot fo work so i have decided to get most of it done this winter. I only really drive the car on weekends, from May through October. I am haveing the engine rebuilt and the car painted. I also installed the super suspension kit from Laurel Mustang. I may have the front brakes converted to disc. I don't really care if the car is original or not, nor do I want it to be very high-preformance. I just want it to be fun to drive, relatively reliable, safe, and to last me till I can give it to my son.
For anyone who is interested, I have put some photos of the progress so far here at this album (let me know if the link doesn't work)
I have a few questions for you guys:
Firs of all, the paint was originally the burgundy colour but it was subsequently repainted a different shade of burgundy. I think it was a Chrysler paint. Although I want to keep this burgundy, I am open to painting it a slightly different shade. Does anyone know a good website or other resource where I can look at some sample colours?
Secondly, the car was always missing some emblems (such as the mustang emblems on the front fenders). There doesn't seem to be any holes in the sheet metal so how do I know where to put all the emblems once the paint is done? Is there a template or measurements somewhere?
Finally, over the past year or so I have been amazed at the wealth of knowledge and experience preento n this board. If anyone has any thoughts or advice concerning my car, please don't hesistate.
First, decifer the VIN to see exactly what the car started out as. The fenders could have been replaced, and the holes for the badges not drilled. I am not aware of a template to determine the exact location of the badges, but once you figure out what the VIN tells you, we can make some measurements to give you a pretty good idea of the where the badges are to be located. You say you want to keep the car for a long time. If so, then first consider replacing the floor pans and check those frame rails carefully to determine how much damage the rust has caused. Pour some water down the cowl vent to see if the cowl is leaking. If it is, then you might want to consider replacing it. Go ahead and put disk brakes at least on the front. And, consider the Lincoln Versailles rear disk swap. Also, consider a 3 point safety belt installation. After these safety issues are met, then it will be time to start working on the mechanical aspects such as overhauling the engine, tranny, etc. Then you might want to start with the cosmetic aspects such as interior upgrade and paint.
Should have mentioned the VIN: 6F08C104750 Which I understand implies this: 6 1966 F Dearborn, Michigan 8 Convertible C V8 289 CID 2V 104750 Unit Number
How would I know if the fender has been replaced? Is the VIN on each body panel? Hadn't thought about the cowl before, I'll check that out.
The outer fender won't have a VIN on it. The inner fender on the driver's side near the shock tower will have the VIN, but that will correspond with the VIN on the door and on the registration papers. It could have been new fenders put on it, or a good job of filling in the holes where the badges go. Here are a few pics of where the badges go. If you like, I can do some measurements.
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Joined: 12/21/2003 From: United States Status: offline
There are templates available if you want to get it right - most Mustang parts suppliers have them. Just browse the catalogs, you'll come across them. It is a paper template with all the alignments and hole positions marked, takes the guess work out of it. Also includes (for GT cars) the GT emblem template, stripes and lettering. Worth the couple dollars. I still have the stripes and letters to do, so it will earn it's cost.
Well my mechanic has disassembled the engine and apparently it has already been rebuilt a few times. The pistons have “.03” imprinted on them and I am told they can’t be bored out any more without risk of overheating the engine. So now what are my options?
Do I need to finds myself a new 289 block somewhere? I have been searching scrap yards with no luck so far. Where else can I get one?
Someone mentioned to me something about putting a “sleeve” in the cylinder or something like that. I did not understand completely what he was saying but it didn’t sound good.
sleeving a block basically bores it out more then it is, and a metal, usually steel i think, is put in place to bring it back to original size bores. its not a BAD thing, but not preffered compared to a gently used block that has life left.
did the guy who is doing your engine check to see if it needs to be re-bored? If the bore taper, roundness, and size is not out of spec for an 0.030" overbore, I'd deglaze the cylinders, install a new "file to fit" set of rings, and run that puppy. I'm not a real fan of going to 0.040" O.S. but it's been done thousands of times (probably tens of thousands of times) on stock builds with a good cooling system, and has given reportedly good durability. A 289 block that is not all ready 0.030" over may be dificult to find. Seem's everyone forgot you can rebuild in 0.010" increments, and just punched them out thirty thousandths at the first rebuild. Kind of stupid in retrospect.
Im restoring a 1966 GT and need a template or measurements for the placement of the m u s t a n g letter emblems on the front fender. if anyone can help me out, please let me know! thanks alot
< Message edited by pfitz73 -- 6/6/2007 2:13:03 AM >
if you're only driving it on weekends, then you may do well to get it insured as a classic. You may find that you fit well with any driving restrictions they may apply. In my case I'm only paying $100/yr and the restrictions don't seem to limit me much over how I'd drive it anyway since it's not my primary car.
As far as websites that show colors, be very careful. They may give you ideas of paint scemes (like stripes or 2 tone ideas) but I wouldn't trust the color to look the same in person. Every last computer monitor will display the same color just a bit different. Different monitor specs + different user settings make it impossible for everyone to see the same thing. So what may appear good on screen might not be exactly what you want. So make sure you see your color in person before you commit to using it.
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Joined: 1/18/2007 From: Las Cruces, NM Status: offline
quote:
ORIGINAL: 0zenon0 Firs of all, the paint was originally the burgundy colour but it was subsequently repainted a different shade of burgundy. I think it was a Chrysler paint. Although I want to keep this burgundy, I am open to painting it a slightly different shade. Does anyone know a good website or other resource where I can look at some sample colours?
As far as choosing a paint color goes, I would go to a auto paint store and look over the chip books. By doing this you can look at thousands upon thousands of colors, and even take them out in the sun to get a good idea of the actual color. As already stated, you will not get a good representation of any color over a computer or even a photograph for that matter.
I want to look at your pictures, but my internet connection is way too slow at work, it will have to wait untill I get home.
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66 Coupe I-6 Conversion, 408 Windsor, Tremec TKO 600 Wilwood fronts, SSBC Rears 9" Track Loc.
thanks alot, that definilty helps. i already did one stripe though so i hope the letters and stripes are even. if anyone has a template let me know still.
I painted my car myself... twice. Silly novice that I am. The first time I got what's called solvent pop, so I had the blessing of getting to wet-sand the first job back off and do it all again. I admit this only because I was trying to match the vintage burgandy color, ('66 I think), and went to a different paint store the second time. To my surprise, the second color was quite a bit different from the first. Here are pictures of both...
The first attempt really was more of a "candy-apple red" and the second, darker color was closer to what the original should have been. The different colors were applied within a couple weeks of each other. I realize the pictures were taken at different times of the year, but these two accurately reflect how different they were even when going for the same color. I didn't repaint the inside of the trunk deck just to serve as a reminder, so I see the difference regularly. I'm not sure how close to a chip you get when you're going for a total repaint. Don't agonize over the choice too much. I'm sure yours is going to be cherished regardless of your fine tuning of the color. Good luck.
However, its alot of work/money at this point for ya to take an old engine block and build it to old specs..Its fun and a learning experience though if that's what you're up for. I ended up returning the block and buying a crate motor. Not sure what your budget or intentions are, but a good rebuild can cost more than a crate that will give you 300+HP out of the box. Again, depends on your intentions. I was heartbroken for about a week once I made the decision not to use the 289 block I bought. It was even date code correct and I used to think that was important to me. But it was going to cost me more (money and hassle) to have it built than buying a new 302 with a roller block/cam that is all new, guranteed etc.
Just my 2 cents...if you don't have a concourse restoration car than a new 302 (or anythin you want, that's the beauty!!) is the way to go....
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any thoughts on my mustang? - 
RE: any thoughts on my mustang? - 
