I'm sorry I haven't posted the data. Yes, I had to replace my driveshaft because I tore up the original. The OEM is $500 and that's with a pretty good discount at my dealership. Check it out! I do beat the hell out of my car, 2 or 3 times a week at the track-15-20 passes a week. I've spread the stock carrier and an Auburn Pro lasted 3 passes before it ate up every single spider gear on the 4th pass. I'm leaving at 6500-7000 rpm on 28" et drags. Hard on the car. It's been raining here every day and haven't had a chance to run it since the driveshaft. I'm waiting on BMR for releasing the date, but I'll tell you this. On a dynojet, there was a gain, nothing large as you would see in stock to a performance tune. It actually gained more torque than RWHP. We also read negative hp, showing the drivetrain loss, which is some great numbers! I promise to post the numbers and charts soon. The driveshaft will really show it's purpose at the track. The car does rev up a bit quicker as an aluminum flywheel would do. It fit in perfect!
If you look at the cost of the OEM, an aluminum single piece and a carbon fiber single piece, it's worth it to me! As mentioned above for the OEM $500+, roughly $600 for an aluminum and another $200 for the yokes and $950 for a carbon fiber with yokes rated upto 1000 hp. Will anyone get near 1000 hp, no. I like the fact that it's that durable though. The stock driveshaft weighs almost 43 lbs. and the carbon fiber is 20lbs with cnc billet yokes and 1350 u-joints. For me, I'd rather spend a little more to get the most benefit. I understand that it's not for everyone. It's not something that is necessarily needed for high performance cars or fast cars. They should have put in a single piece in the first place. The ONLY reason for the 2 piece is to remove vibrations.
Sorry man, I didn't mean to hijack your thread. In your application, the carbon fiber is probably the best way to go.....definitely the coolest LOL.
Do you happen to have any video of your car? I would love to see that thing launch at 6,500 RPM. No wonder you busted the stock piece. What is your average 60 ft time? What do you trap? I would think that if you are in the low 12s with slicks launched @ 6,500 that you are probably running all motor.
You obviously know what you are doing. Try to understand that I was not saying the CF driveshaft is useless. I just didn't want to see some guy spend $1,000 on a mod only to find out that he didn't really achieve any gains.
If it ever stops freakin raining, I'll get some fresh video's leaving. When I broke the driveshaft, it was mister toads wild ride! According to 2 buddy's standing by the starter, they said the front left wheel came up about 14" and the right about 6". It twisted real bad and the driveshaft didn't like the rearrangement in geometry back there. I was in the right lane and when it came up, the right rear tire was planted and left was not. It drove me into the center line and then I then put it back in the groove. I stayed in it and only ran a 13.1. It was all over the place. Before the slicks, driveshaft, I was running 12.9's all day within a few 1000's. I am on all motor still. I don't have any nitrous parts installed (for those that run 12.3's on Pirelli's, but have the nitrous parts on the car and say they are N/A. Honestly, I won't put those things on the car until it's time to run NO2 and have established my N/A times. When you have those parts on there, most automatically doubt your times. I'm not saying that those guys didn't run those times, I'm just saying there's a lot of doubt just because you have a system in the car.
Anyways, I honestly didn't expect a lot of gains, if any, on the dyno. It's simply reducing unsprung weight. Less mass for the motor to turn, making it easier on the motor to turn. It only picked up 5 rwhp/3rwtq on the dyno. I'm still waiting to get the numbers back for the drivetrain loss/negative hp. I don't have them here with me. Where it's really going to show up is at the track. I've also installed BMR's anti-roll bar. This will keep me launching straight. I need to mess around with adjusting the shocks, and the anti-roll bar still. It just makes it hard with all the freaking daily rain!
I'm not here to mislead anyone. If there is something I don't know, I will find out. I wouldn't want anyone to buy anything with proclaimed gains and not have them. Will someone notice 5 hp, most will not. They would feel it rev up quicker though! I just think that if someone is looking for a single piece driveshaft, I think it's a better deal. It does cost a little more than an aluminum one, but it'll be stronger and absorb the vibrations as intended by the two piece, better than aluminum. Just trying to pass on savings when I can!
If it ever stops freakin raining, I'll get some fresh video's leaving. When I broke the driveshaft, it was mister toads wild ride! According to 2 buddy's standing by the starter, they said the front left wheel came up about 14" and the right about 6". It twisted real bad and the driveshaft didn't like the rearrangement in geometry back there. I was in the right lane and when it came up, the right rear tire was planted and left was not. It drove me into the center line and then I then put it back in the groove. I stayed in it and only ran a 13.1. It was all over the place. Before the slicks, driveshaft, I was running 12.9's all day within a few 1000's. I am on all motor still. I don't have any nitrous parts installed (for those that run 12.3's on Pirelli's, but have the nitrous parts on the car and say they are N/A. Honestly, I won't put those things on the car until it's time to run NO2 and have established my N/A times. When you have those parts on there, most automatically doubt your times. I'm not saying that those guys didn't run those times, I'm just saying there's a lot of doubt just because you have a system in the car.
Anyways, I honestly didn't expect a lot of gains, if any, on the dyno. It's simply reducing unsprung weight. Less mass for the motor to turn, making it easier on the motor to turn. It only picked up 5 rwhp/3rwtq on the dyno. I'm still waiting to get the numbers back for the drivetrain loss/negative hp. I don't have them here with me. Where it's really going to show up is at the track. I've also installed BMR's anti-roll bar. This will keep me launching straight. I need to mess around with adjusting the shocks, and the anti-roll bar still. It just makes it hard with all the freaking daily rain!
I'm not here to mislead anyone. If there is something I don't know, I will find out. I wouldn't want anyone to buy anything with proclaimed gains and not have them. Will someone notice 5 hp, most will not. They would feel it rev up quicker though! I just think that if someone is looking for a single piece driveshaft, I think it's a better deal. It does cost a little more than an aluminum one, but it'll be stronger and absorb the vibrations as intended by the two piece, better than aluminum. Just trying to pass on savings when I can!
sounds cool. It would be very interesting to see how that works out for you because i don;t know anyone else who has stepped up to the space age technology yet. Hopefully you will keep us well informed
ORIGINAL: MikeHawke
Hawgman - yes, smartass, i understand the theory behind reducing rotating mass, but to state that you gain horsepower from a driveshaft is a friggin joke.
MikeHawke, the fact that you, as a **Moderator**, call a poster a SMARTASS, (even if you have some beef with him outside of this thread) for no apparent reason on this thread, shows me that YOU are an unprofessional ASS.
I stayed out of the whole thing last month, but damn, you need to just STOP that. NOW.
That behavior really reflects badly on mustangforums.[:@]
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'05 Roush Sport 'vert - blk/blk w/wht stripes - 5spd - Roush CF interior w/ floormats, gauges and pedals - Katzkin leather - Shaker 500 - HC Trap delete -Steeda braided brake lines - Hawk HPS Pads - Tunable Induction CAI - XCAL2 from MD Motorsports
I'm interested. It is kind of pricey, though. I remember researching for a CF driveshaft for my '99 GT and, IIRC, is was only $700.
PLEASE tell me where you got your aluminum flywheel and for how much! I contacted MRT about the light weight flywheel and clutch assembly they supposedly used in their Interceptor, but never got a response. The article in Car & Driver says it is 23 lbs. lighter than stock! That should make for some seriously quick revving and, even better, improved gas mileage.
I imagine that with a CF driveshaft, aluminum flywheel, light weight clutch assembly, and aluminum pulleys (if available) would make for some nice HP savings as well as other benefits.
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^^^ '05 GT Premium - She's gone but not forgotten.
'08 BMW 550i Sport w/ 6-speed manual - Carbon Black Metallic on Cream Beige
You can find the Fadanza aluminum flywheels for the 05 all over the place. They average about $325-ish. Occasionally you can find them a little cheaper on fleabay.
RE: group buy-carbon fiber driveshaft
